I couldn't find an updated DIY with working pics, so I decided to make my own!
(Not my fault if you blah blah don't be an idiot)
- 7mm Allen wrench
- C-clamp or F-clamp. Needs to fit inside the caliper (see below) and around the back of the caliper.
- Hammer or rubber mallet for bolt-turning and rotor-removing
- Turkey baster or other device to extract some brake fluid
- New rotors/pads
1. Remove wheel. If you don't know how to do this, STOP. Here's what you see:
At the back of the caliper you can see the sensor cable (driver side only). There's two bolts holding the caliper on at top and bottom; the top one is pointed out where it peeks between the caliper and the hub:
There's little plastic end caps that you can pull off.
Here's a shot from the back. The arrow points to where you insert the Allen wrench to turn and remove the top bolt (bottom is similar):
2. Unplug the sensor cable. (Since I wasn't changing my pads, and the cable was a b!tch to disconnect, I just left it.)
3. Remove both plastic caps. Then stick the Allen wrench into the top hole in the caliper and turn. (Remember it's facing you, so turn RIGHT, not left.) I had to hit the Allen wrench with a hammer 8-10 times before it finally moved. Sorry the picture is crappy:
3. Repeat for the bottom hole. The bolts look like this:
4. Once the bolts are out, the caliper slides off of the rotor. It's heavier than you think. Most people recommend hanging it from the suspension coil, but it's much easier to just find a box you can rest it on. Be careful not to kink or twist the brake line:
5. Now you have access to the rotor itself. It's held on by a single screw, but the screw can be tough. I had to spray the screw with WD40 and leave it for a minute before getting it to turn:
6. Now it's time to get the rotor off. Rotors are notorious (on most cars, not just Dubs) for getting fused to the hub and refusing to budge. If this happens to you, spray around the seam with WD40 and then start tugging. BE CAREFUL you don't yank the car off the jack stand!
If it's still on, start hitting the back of the rotor with a rubber mallet or hammer. Don't worry; you're not gonna break it. (You're not using this rotor any more any way!) Be firm with it. I was just about convinced it wasn't gonna come off when it fell off, so keep it up!
YAY! You got it. Here's the naked hub:
7. Put the new rotor on. To avoid it getting stuck next time, you might want a thin layer of anti-seize compound around the hub where it makes contact with the rotor. Put the screw back in to hold it in place.
8. I didn't change my pads (the rotors were warped) but they're easy to change at this point; yank em out of the caliper and install the new ones.
9. Now you gotta put the caliper back on. Since the new rotor and pads are thicker than the old ones, the caliper won't just slide back on; you need to compress it just a little bit.
(I was really at this point; how would I compress the piston and get the caliper on at the same time? Little did I know that, when you compress it, it doesn't bounce back; the piston stays compressed until the next time you push your brake pedal.)
10. Don't skip this step! Pop your hood and find the brake fluid overflow tank. Unscrew it and use a turkey baster or similar instrument to extract some fluid from the container. This keeps it from overflowing when you compress the piston:
11. Then, use your F-clamp or C-clamp to smush the piston in the caliper. The picture hopefully shows how you should position it: one end against the inside pad, the other end on the back side of the caliper somewhere:
Keep fiddling with it until you've expanded the gap enough to fit the caliper back on the rotor. It should slide right back on.
12. Plug the sensor cable back in, then get to work screwing the bolts back in. Because of the weird bolts, it was harder than I thought it would be to properly line them up and screw em in. Remember the plastic caps when you're done.
13. Squirt the brake fluid back into the container under the hood (hehe, "squirt") and screw the cap back on.
14. Pump the brake a couple times, then make sure the brakes work to get you out the driveway.
That's it! Email me with questions: email@example.com
Modified by happywaffle at 6:23 AM 12-2-2007