Wire brushed off as much of the rust as I could get off, degreased and painted the areas of the trunk that are exposed to moisture. Unpainted areas are inside the trunk and will just get primer and paint.
After two hours of tedious die grinding I sanded about four square feet of the roof
to remove any burrs. I found that the rust spots had a slight rise to them that wouldn't go away with sanding. The iron oxide was harder than the sandpaper grit but not the carbide burr.
I meticulously ground away as many rust spots as I could see. These left depressions that often still had a slight rust deposit at the bottom of the pit. After grinding I used the POR-15 neutralizer and rinsed with water as instructed. I towel dried the surface, allowed it to dry totally and painted on a thick coat of POR-15 over the entire area.
I sanded away the entire coat leaving each divot filled with POR-15 sealing the rust off for eternity, or so they say.
The product on the left is the fiberglass reinforced filler designed specifically to fill large holes. I used that to fill the rust holes in the window frame. This stuff sets up very fast (5 minutes) and is hard as nails. There's a 10 minute work window for final shaving or shaping, but that's about it.
The product on the right is their super fine body filler. It spreads like the consistency of butter.
This is the hole filler, shaped on the left and unworked on the right.
I used the fine filler on all of the divots and sanded it away leaving the roof extremely smooth.
I top coated the sanded metal with red oxide primer which will probably be sanded off by the painter. I started to reinstall the trunk lid to check the fit and to weld up the antenna hole in the trunk lid. I may leave it and install another type of antenna there.
Before and after left side.
Before and after, right side