If you need to replace your serpentine belt and don't want to pay the $300 stealership fee to replace it, then do it yourself. I have never touched a serpentine belt before and I decided to take this task into my own hands and after about 45 minutes I discovered it was very simple.
Do this procedure at your own risk. I am not responsible for any mistakes that you make, any parts you break, or any other thing you try to pend on me.
--6mm hex socket bit OR 6mm allen wrench--
--socket to hold the 6mm allen bit above
--bit screw driver (fits the t20)--
--M8 1.25 pitch screw about 2 inches long (you can get this at home depot or ace hardware for 50 cents--
--and of course a new serpentine belt (part # 066 145 933J)--
To start off you may want to print this diagram, it displays the 24valve belt pattern.
1) If your old belt is still in there pull it out.
2) Start off by taking the front passenger wheel off and jacking the front passenger side of the car up.
3) Remove the t20 screws in the passenger fender liner (you don’t have to do this but it just makes life easier) just to give you an idea
4) Remove tensioner pulley by removing the 3 blue-green 6mm hex bolts in the picture below. I used a 6mm hex bit and a socket and ratchet to do this. This makes it easy to loop the new belt in, since the gap between the actual pulley and engine is tiny and makes it hard to get the belt into position.
Installing New Belt
5) Start off my looping the belt around the crank as shown below (if you don't know what all your pulleys are, refer to the first image as this displays them all for you).
6) Next loop it under the power steering pulley and up and around the A/C pulley as shown below:
7) Next loop it around the Alternator pulley as shown below:
8) Now were going to move back down to the crank, and from the top loop the belt under the coolant pump (water pump) shown in picture above ^^^
9) Now that you have done this thread the M8 1.25 2" Bolt you bought into the threaded hole in the tensioner pulley, shown below:
10) Thread this all the way until it looks like this (there is a stopper that will prevent you from going too far):
11) Now go back to your belt and pull it tight, loop the tensioner pulley in now (refer back to diagram to see how the belt is supposed to be) kinda tight area but tried to get the best pik as possible for you.
12: Once that is in line the tensioner pulley arm back up with the holes in the engine to bolt the 3 screws back in. Tighten them back on. (I don't know exact torque, I just did then tight with a quarter turn)
13: BEFORE YOU PROCEED
Check you belt make sure it is lined up around each pulley and not hanging off the edge of a pulley. If it is then proceed to step 14, if not line it up so its on track.
14) Back out the M8 screw you put in the tensioner (my bolt had a 16mm head yours may be different) Our cars have automatic tensioners and it will automatically tighten the belt to where it needs to be.
Here is what my whole system looked like after:
Tensioner: (notice the gap under the threaded screw hole--it should look like this...just incase your worried
Modified by eurostiehl at 5:19 PM 12-19-2007
Modified by eurostiehl at 5:48 PM 12-19-2007