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    Thread: 1989 Dodge raider swap 1.9TDI?

    1. 12-20-2007 03:55 PM #1
      Hey all,
      long time no speak, sold my 93 passat(for 3.8K, not quite 7K but good as well), and the new kid totaled it(not due to his fault though) second week of owning it. what a loss...

      Anyway i'm here to ask about swapping a 1.9TDI(or a 1.9TD) into a dodge raider (rebatched Mitsubishi Pajero, by dodge at the time when they were under chrisler corp).

      I got me a sweet deal from some guy here in T.O. and now thinking of what to do with it. It has same engine as the late 80s dodge caravan which is a mitsubishi 6G72, a V6 3.0L, a 4x4(with 2H, 4H, 4L) and an auto with overdrive. an awsome engine but not too economical. Especially in the raider for some reason, it gets wors l/km than the caravan even though it is a short wheel base, must be the 4x4 or the trans gearing.

      anyway i was searching high and low but it seems that no one has done this, and why?
      this is a perfect rig for a VW diesel power. i know there are people out there that sell an adapter for a sidekick to swap in a TDI. but my problem is the lack of info on the raider transmission, especially the automatic. i could dive right in and do a 6 month engine swap deal but this is nonecence. So i was hoping someone here knows someone or has some info that can help me out.

      willing to pay someone for an adapter plate for me, but not know of anyone who has done it.

      thanks again
      by the way, happy holidays everyone.
      ip


    2. 12-21-2007 03:21 AM #2
      anyone got any ideas?
      the people that do the adapter for suzukis told me they have nothing for a mitsubishi, and mentioned best bet is to swap the transmission as well. well that is a whole new game.

      any have some input on this?


    3. Member QuantumSyncro's Avatar
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      12-21-2007 11:38 AM #3
      I think the reason you're not finding much for conversions is because the Raider was such a limited seller, at least in the US. They just didn't sell too many of them.

      You might be able to find adapter components for a transplant, and I would first start by searching for general VW engine adapters on the net, for like Samurai with VW diesel power, and then ask the vendors of those items if they know someone who makes them for the Raider. Can't say I've run across any myself.

      The other way you might go with this is to try and acquire a powerplant native to a Pajero, which was available with diesel, although not in the US. That might be a better way of moving forward with your diesel conversion if you really want a diesel under the hood.

      good luck, and report back with anything you might find!

      Gir - "won't the sploding hurt?" Zim - "Silence!"

    4. 12-21-2007 09:51 PM #4
      Quote, originally posted by QuantumSyncro »
      I think the reason you're not finding much for conversions is because the Raider was such a limited seller, at least in the US. They just didn't sell too many of them.... The other way you might go with this is to try and acquire a powerplant native to a Pajero, which was available with diesel, although not in the US. ...

      Try Brazil - Mitsu made the Pajero and a pickup called (perhaps not coincidentally) the Raider in BR. Both powered by a neat Turbo Diesel.

      You will just need to find someone with mad Portuguese skills.

      MCA


    5. Member QuantumSyncro's Avatar
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      12-22-2007 02:19 PM #5
      I was thinking that Canada got a diesel Pajero too but I could be wrong on that!

      Now there are some (very few) Mitsu diesel powered small trucks here in the US and along with that the Dodge derivative of the Mitsu truck too. Those are fairly sought after right now but you might be able to find a lone engine somewhere.

      I do know that Dodge, in 1978, installed a Mistu 4.0 diesel in the D150 (full size) truck, but only one year, before they moved to the Cummins powerplants. Those 4.0 engines are going to be few and far between.


      Modified by QuantumSyncro at 1:24 PM 12-22-2007

      Gir - "won't the sploding hurt?" Zim - "Silence!"

    6. 12-29-2007 07:09 AM #6
      yep the raider was a limited edition deal, i think from 87-89 or 90
      and i think we didn't get the diesel version here in canada. maby BC because they are on the west coast and have a huge amount of semi/private importers that bring whatever they can from japan.

      but here in T.O i'm stuck, nothing to find that will match. even if i find something it will be even rarer than the raider itself. that is why a TDI is the best deal. i can lay my hands on a used complete parts car with good engine and trans for under 1K canadian dollars

      and parts are everywhere and cheaper than any other diesel motor. toyota is another choice but again i\m afraid they did not sell them here in production lots so again a rare find unless from early 80s.

      i will keep researching and hunting around here so will keep you posted if anything moves along. i think i'm just dreaming,

      When I wake up early in the morning,
      Lift my head, I’m still yawning.
      When I’m in the middle of a dream,
      Stay in bed, float up stream (float up stream),
      Please don’t wake me, no, don’t shake me,
      Leave me where I am, I’m only sleeping.
      Everybody seems to think I’m lazy.
      I don’t mind, I think they’re crazy

      anyway you get the point


    7. Member QuantumSyncro's Avatar
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      12-29-2007 01:08 PM #7
      Well as I see it your main problems will be mounting the transmission and oil pan clearance. The main problem you might be able to solve with a Quantum / 4000 diesel pan since they were longtitudinally mounted engines. The trans adapter you'll probably have to do some digging for.

      good luck and keep posting back with what you find!

      Gir - "won't the sploding hurt?" Zim - "Silence!"

    8. Member DubbinChris's Avatar
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      12-29-2007 04:54 PM #8
      Subscribed....this sounds interesting.

      I have a buddy with a 5sp Raider locally. He loves the thing.


    9. 01-02-2008 02:53 PM #9
      i'm going in a few circles here i think. Found out that my transmission is a km148 a 4 speed automatic (4th is an overdrive).
      came across a fact that toyota trucks in early-mid 80s had the same transmission and bolted together with a 2L and 2L-T diesel engines. now like i mentioned these are encient and probably not worth swaping in.
      I think also Mitsubishi Mighty Max pick-ups, Dodge D-50 pick-ups, and Ford Ranger pick-ups in mid to late 80s had a diesel engine from Mitsubishi, i think it is a 4D55 diesel engine, a 2.3L. Same engine as was available for the Pajeros.
      oh found something else someone in XJ(wrangler?) forum says about a diesel swap: Aisin Warner KM148 4 speed auto, which in turn will bolt to an NP231 tcase. and this transmission has been used in Toyotas and Isuzus. It's also known as an A44DL or an AW372L (the L is a lock-up feature).

      that's the research so far, now the hunt for diesel. I think this is puting the VW TDI a bit far away from my plans, but i will see what the market holds for me.

      will keep you posted


    10. Member QuantumSyncro's Avatar
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      01-02-2008 05:38 PM #10
      Ford / Mazda used the Mazda (Perkins) 2.0 diesel engine. They didn't share the mitsu engine with Dodge D50 / Mitsubishi.

      Ford actually installed the Mazda diesel engine in some Tempo / Topaz cars as well as the Escort / Lynx.

      The toyota 2L engine was a 2.4 litre engine used up through 1986 in the US. It was an OHC engine with a Bosch licensed distributor type injection pump. The 2LT as you mentioned had a turbo.

      This is what the Toyota 2L engine looks like (what I could get in the photograph). It's been living in the back of my van for over a year now. The 2wd 5 speed gearbox is parked next to it in one of the photos.



      Gir - "won't the sploding hurt?" Zim - "Silence!"

    11. 01-11-2008 10:14 AM #11
      well you mother@#%$
      I almost came in my pants when I found out what I am going to tell you all. And to think, the guys that do the adapter plate for a sidekick have no clue about this, i am going back to them to see if they know what I’m talking about.

      Alright like I said my trans is a KM148, aka A44D, which came in the A44DL(lock up) variation. So I took this info and run with it through the net, now to think that Mitsubishi used same transmission as the Toyotas and some American makes and that Suzuki has not tried to come across it, this is just unthinkable. It took me a while until I came across a PDF identifying a transmission and model/year of car it was used in. Also a bunch of other sources referring to this thereafter. Well guess what other variation A44 came in. Suzuki Sidekick 4 door in mid 1990s came with a A44DE. Where E stands for Electronic Controlled. Now what I’m thinking is who da funk cares, these are all in the same family of transmissions. And family never fights.

      I am still researching to figure this out, the case code is different between these models. Asian-Warner 03-72 and 03-72LE.
      Here are some clutches, and they are different as well, but again what I need is an adapter plate between the A44D trans and a TDI, and this is now driving me to see how these transmission variations are different physically.

      Here is also a chart how to identify a transmission case code

      So anyone got some info on this that can add to the madness? I think this just placed me right in the face of a TDI implant. The Toyota diesel engines are great and all but they are expensive dude. It will cost me like 3K to buy a half cut of some Toyota diesel, and then another 1K to bring it from somewhere in the US to Canada, not even talking about customs and those jerks.

      That’s it for now.


    12. 01-16-2008 01:25 PM #12
      i had a few replies from different people about this and it seems that it is quite possible. i will only have to do some mods to be able to mound the engine in my raider, room should not be a problem as the raider V6 is quite big and will accomodate the volkswagen 4cylinder engine.

      a few more questions on the topic of TDIs.

      the same old question, a TD or a TDI? 1.9L TD seems like a good candidate.
      somewhere someone, again, mentioned that the 1.9TD and 1.9TDI have same cylinders, now am i assuming wrong to think that TDI is actually based on a TD model with the difference of the Cylinder head(which has the direct injector ports) as well as other mechanical and electronics.
      I presume that if i have a 1.9 TD i could always modify it to be a TDI, and most changes would be in the top end of the engine.

      I know TDI is more complicated for a swap as it has electronic controll and all that.
      can anyone elaborate which components have changed between the two?

      i'm sure i'm oversimplifying the question, i will do my research till next reply.
      thanks


    13. Member giulianot's Avatar
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      01-16-2008 01:39 PM #13
      tdi's use domed pistons tops where as idi's use flat to pistons, and injection pressures on a tdi are much higher than a idi. Converting a 1.9 aaz block to a tdi is posible but you will have to use 1z(ahu) tdi parts(like crank, pistons, head.....) and rebuilt the aaz injector pump to tdi pressures/parameters

    14. 03-24-2008 12:48 PM #14
      eah did some more research, trying to gather the mulas now and waiting for the weather to warm up so that i can work on the raider.

      So i am now inclined with the VW diesel. and through some research, and like you said 1.9L turbo diesel (AAZ) seems to be the better alternative. if i can find a decent parts car.

      by the way the acme adapter will cost me something like $400-600, plus shiping. so i really hope my interview went well and i will get a better paying job.

      by the way you diesel guys out there, what things would you recomment i rebuild on a used AAZ engine. i read somewhere fuel distributer pump?? what else major and minor should i rebuild on it before i drop it in the raider?

      what year did the AAZ became available and on which models(in canada), is it golf jetta and passat at around 1996?

      thanks


    15. Member Ian'89Fox's Avatar
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      03-26-2008 12:48 AM #15
      This sounds like a really neat project...I like how you're not willing to give up!

      So you did find an adapter eh, thats good. At TDIclub.com there is a guy who put a TDI into a Ranger. He had an adaptor custom made for about 3 grand. TDIclub has a whole section on swaps that would no doubt interest you.

      I agree that the 1.9 TD is the ideal engine for this swap due to its simplicity. A 1.6 would be alright too but there is likely more power potential from a 1.9 due to its higher displacement.

      The AAZ came in Golfs and Jettas from '93 to '97. I believe they only came in Passats from '93 to '95, then the TDI took over in '96.
      The one major and pretty much only flaw of the AAZ is its infamous crank sprocket issue. Do a search on it here and you'll see what I mean. The cure (and prevention) is to remove the crank and get it welded/machined to accept a TDI style crank sprocket, which is a more reliable setup. There are a few guys on this forum that can do this. Also install a TDI clutch pulley on the alternator. Other than that and putting a new timing belt on it you should be good if you know the engine was working reliably before being removed.

      There are likely quite a few AAZs in wrecking yards due to failed crank sprockets. You could likely buy one for a song and fix the crank and the head. Usually they will bend a couple valves and crush a lifter or two but thats it. I believe I saw one in a car at Cookstown auto wreckers on hwy 400.

      The best source for IDI info is http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB.

      LMK if I can be of any more assistance!


      Modified by Ian'89Fox at 9:53 PM 3-25-2008


    16. 03-31-2008 01:29 PM #16
      Hey Ian'89Fox, thanks for the info, I see you have a rust bucket that you might want to give a way for a pint and a dance (I can do disco Stew).
      I did come across one website someone described the timing issue, I think it is what you described with using the TDI sprocket and all that guffy little business.
      By the way autozone com in do it yourself section has a **** load of repair write-up on the KM148 (A44D) transmission and a lot of other manuals if anyone will need it (more legit web than that Russian VW site I know).
      By the way you can tell that everything for me is by the way.

      I managed to snatch a Saturday of going to standard wreckers and fishing around for parts and later worked on the raider. Managed to remove both bumpers as they are both bent while no other damage is there(weigh a lot as well, so if I replace them with the 89 dodge caravan chrome bumpers I will look pimping and lighter). Also not sure if I mentioned, but my gear shift lever was broken in half, don’t ask how they did it, but this is how I got the car, and was using a clamp pliers to shift gears. Anyway managed to get that whole story out and disassembled and see that it is not that bad and can be welded back together, I could not find anywhere a used or a new gear shift lever(such an odd part, who breaks it anyway). Coincidentally was driving at like 3:30 am on Saturday night at Bathurst and Eglinton and saw another Dodge raider (beige/gold colour) pull into that country style, what are the odds?

      Now to business, Sidekick is about 2600lb (4 door model) 2 door is about 2400lb. Where the Raider is about 3200lb, so either I do cardio till I lose half a ton or I am in trouble. Whilst it is ok to drop in the TD into a sidekick it might be a problem with the Raider. The weight between the 6G72 and the AAZ is different and it will help. I also have a **** load of thick protection plates on the undercarriage, which might help if got removed and kept in storage for offloading times only. Another thing I am trying to research is the power ratings, shifting levels, and power bands between the A44D transmission and the AAZ, this got to be important to calculate. I keep coming across A44D is rated at 320ftlbs (some guys in Volvo forum talk about AW372), whatever that means. Then what is the AAZ rated at? I guess, 1.9 TD; Straight-4 SOHC 8V; 1.9 L (1896 cc); max out.rpm 55 kW (74 hp)/4200; max torq/rpm 150 N•m (111 ft•lbf)/2400-3400.
      A44D Gear Ratio is: A44D first: 2.826; second: 1.493; third: 1.000; fourth(o/d): 0.688.
      What does it all mean? Am I gona be as fast as a 4wd rated at 1 human power (pushing behind)…

      Also tried to find out the A44D gear up- and down- shifting points in rpm. I found something, from Tacoma repair manual(as it has same transmission in 2001-2004 I think):
      Shift point
      D position
      (Throttle valve fully opened)

      1 ->2 49 - 57 km/h (30 - 36 mph)
      2 ->3 97 - 108 km/h (60 - 68 mph)
      O/D ->3 * down-shift is possible up to maximum speed.
      3 ->2 90 - 101 km/h (56 - 64 mph)
      2 ->1 37 - 49 km/h (23 - 31 mph)
      (Throttle valve fully closed)
      3 ->O/D 32 - 46 km/h (20 - 29 mph)

      L position
      (Throttle valve fully opened)
      2 ->1 40 - 51 km/h (25 - 32 mph)

      Honestly I don’t get this chart, please make it more complicated for me, why is O/D shown both under 1st gear and over 3rd gear, I thought it is after 3rd making it 4th gear. As if I drive in first gear up to 49KM/H, anyway I need to find a better source.
      But then again the manual shows this as well
      Tire size: P205/75R15 Output shaft rpm (Vehicle speed reference)
      1,000 rpm (32 km/h, 20 mph)
      1,800 rpm (57 km/h, 35 mph)
      3,500 rpm (111 km/h, 69 mph)
      Tire size: P235/55R16 Output shaft rpm (Vehicle speed reference)
      1,000 rpm (32 km/h, 20 mph)
      1,800 rpm (58 km/h, 36 mph)
      3,500 rpm (113 km/h, 70 mph)

      It sucks there is no readily available info on the raider and I have to do these insane comparison and cross reference charts.


      anyone can help me, i hope i'm not the only one insane enough to research this.


    17. 04-01-2008 12:33 PM #17
      ok i think i have figured it out, thanks to a 1989 montero repair manual i found online, with a whole bunch of specs in it.
      so my specs are:
      Transmission &transfer case
      Model No. KM148
      Gear ratio
      Transmission
      1st 2.826
      2nd 1.493
      3rd 1.000
      4th 0.688
      Reverse 2.703
      Transfer case
      High 1 .ooo
      Low 1.925
      Final ring gear ratio 4.625
      Tire size P235/75R15
      taking this information and the fact that the AAZ performs at the following RPMs(i'm guessinig this is good info to base my calculations on):
      max out/rpm 55 kW (74 hp)/4200rpm
      max torq/rpm 150 N•m (111 ft•lbf)/2400-3400
      meaning max i could squeeze from the diesel is about 4200rpm, above that is not really helpful or desired. and best torque band would be 2400-3400rpm.
      now using this graph of the km148 transmission:

      we can see that it is quite acceptable, especially if i go easy on the throttle between the 3rd and the 4th gears.
      well that was easier than i thought.
      anyone know the performance characteristics of the AAZ other than what i'm assuming above. thanks.

      p.s. wanted to add this the 6G72 mitsubishi engine that is in the raider now has the following specs: 141 hp (105 kW) at 5000 rpm and 172 ft·lbf (233 N·m) of torque at 3600 rpm. But then agasin the Raider also came with a 2.6L 4 cylinder engine G54B which was rated at 109 hp (81 kW).
      another thing i'm afraid of is that the diesel might be a little underpowered, but then again i'm going for the fuel economy more than anything else(and biodiesel).

      wanted to add this info found in another post:
      http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1...p.htm
      it looks like a top gear of 0.681 is very desired, just that i jump higher from gear to gear. If i'm not mistaking a higher final gear ratio (of 4.625) means more torque!?!?


      Modified by ipdesign at 10:19 AM 4-1-2008


      Modified by ipdesign at 1:20 PM 4-1-2008


    18. Member BUNNYLOVE's Avatar
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      04-02-2008 08:32 AM #18
      Cool project!
      Wow they are 3200lbs?? I would have thought they were significantly less than that. It looks like the trans ratios will work out ok. How is the overdrive engaged?
      Many **** Piles
      -Ryan

    19. 04-02-2008 11:59 AM #19
      thanks.
      not going to list how the whole thing works, but this is one line answer i think, Transmission type: Forward 4 gears, reverse 1 gear, single-line planetary gear and Simpson planetary gear.

      eah the Raiders are quite biffy, here is the pic of an undecariage and the drivetrain:

      here is another of my raider:

      you can see how the right corner of the bumper is smashed, but nothing else around it looks to be affected, very heavy and strong metal frame and panels. that is why it is heavy.


    20. Member Ian'89Fox's Avatar
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      04-02-2008 12:23 PM #20
      Yes a 4.625 r&p will give you greater torque multiplication than something higher (numerically lower).

      I know my AAZ turns at around 2300 rpm at 100 km/h. I would try the stock Raider gearing though...worst case you could swap another rear end into it.

      Also nope, not interested in getting rid of the AAZ...will either become a spare engine or maybe a powerplant for something 4wd


    21. 04-02-2008 02:03 PM #21
      have to mention something else, when i came across an Iltis i was all huffing and puffing about it, but never end up buying one(they actually went on auction recently again). here is a link to someone that already done the engine swap on the iltis:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1859253

      they actually mention the rev bands and so on.

      and the iltis specs are :
      Weight: 1,550 kg = 3400lb
      Maximum speed: 100 km/h
      Engine: 74 hp, 4 cylinder, 1.7 l, gasoline
      Transmission: 5-speed manual with integrated differential
      Make Volkswagen
      Model VW005
      Type 5speed manual with integrated differential
      Ratios (transmission) R 7.318/3.909/2.278/1.458/1.086/XC 7.603
      Ratio (differential) 5.286
      Differential operation Manual disengagement

      you're right Ian, i should still try the raider, it might turn out just fine.

      p.s. gotta talk about finances in general. Let's assume i got a VW parts car for 1K, i will need an adapter for around 600-800(total). i have estimated that i would need around 3K to get it all squared off. Depending on the condition of the AAZ the 3K might mean including the cost of the raider and the registrations; worst case 3500. now it is a lot, but it looks like the cheapest way to get yourself a diesel 4wd jeep. i would say this price beats all others i have come across, half cuts of toyotas, custom adapter plates for odd cars, importing a japanese diesel car, etc. now who wants to give it a shot and figure out how much the jeep will be worth on the market after this mod? not that i will sell it for the world.

      Modified by ipdesign at 11:11 AM 4-2-2008


      Modified by ipdesign at 9:49 AM 4-3-2008


    22. Member BUNNYLOVE's Avatar
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      04-03-2008 10:22 PM #22
      Resale value is tough. Its a very limited market. But if you enjoy it for a couple years its worth it IMO.
      Many **** Piles
      -Ryan

    23. 04-03-2008 10:32 PM #23
      You should go here & mention your ideas:
      http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/...&C=20

      This is the best Mits Montero/Dodge Raider board on the web. Even have a diesel board with mostly Canadians due to they can import Gen 2 diesel Pajeros...


    24. 04-07-2008 05:28 PM #24
      thanks again for the links. the IDI website was very helpfull, as well as the 4x4 web site.
      i think i actually got the idea that the sidekick a44de is very similar to a44d and a44dl from the 4x4 website.

      was just surfing the idi web site and have some questions that the rest of you diesel gicks were waiting for(thanks for your patience with me going around and around with this project).

      so i'm in preliminary process of checking out what is so dificult in implanting a TDI(1z, ahu etc) engine as opposed to IDI(aaz).
      read up on the M-TDI(TDI with mechanical pump of aaz or cummins or some other mechanical diesel pump), and looks very complicated even though it is supposed to simplify the TDI engine transplant.
      i wonder what is so dificult with the TDI like AHU engine? dug up some schematics. Yes it is a lot of electronics but this is automotive electronics, a person with simple "instruments and controlls" course in electronics can figure it out(luckily i had one part of my EET diploma). and all i see is a few sensors and relays. Should be peace of cake, as any controls circuitry can be "tampered with", bypassed, or riged(shorted or resistored to be fooled). I don't see what the fuss is about, other than the fact that most mechanics are better at mechanics than electronics.
      i still need to figure out how the instrument cluster "bypass" will work out (going through all the schematics). most of the time i see independant sensors that the ECM uses, and i see no communication between the ECm and the Transmission module or the instrument cluster(only unidirectional from ECM to those, not back).
      So basically if i eliminate all these random sensors like breakswitch, and fuel gage sender, and whatever else i find is useless i will be ok.

      can anyone tell me why it is a biggie? use specific information(like, "no you can't do it because engine control module is recieving speed sensing from the trans control module which in turn takes it from transmission speed sensor, so if you use a trans other than the stock vw that came with the engine you won't be able to get this info to the ECM and therefore the engine will not start" or something like this).

      thanks


    25. Member Ian'89Fox's Avatar
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      04-08-2008 01:42 AM #25
      I'll admit that I don't know the specifics about what is required to successfully install a TDI and its electronics.

      I will say that its probably not too much *harder* than a mechanical swap, especially for someone like yourself whos job is electronics. Just more work, time, and money. Also keep in mind that a lot of people get very confused by relays, resistors, ohms law, etc. They see a bunch of wires and get scared. Seems easy to you but for some it is very difficult. A lot of it comes down to personal preference. Like I said in my other thread, I prefer a mechanical engine due to its simplicity. One wire for the shut-off solenoid and some simple electronics for the glow plugs. Also fewer and cheaper parts...few sensors to go bad and connections to corrode, no ecm, injection pump is cheaper, don't need vag-com. Its not that I'm not good at electrical (I work on mainly electronic engines for a living)...am just the type of person who highly values simplicity. Also keep in mind you'll pay quite a bit more for a TDI engine, and its ideal to get the whole car b/c you'll need more than just the engine ie cluster, fuse/relay panel, throttle pedal assy etc.

      I think a TDI swap would be ideal for you because you are no doubt good at, and like, electronics.


    26. Member BUNNYLOVE's Avatar
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      04-08-2008 09:35 AM #26
      It is no biggie. People are scared of TDI wiring for some reason. Most of the time its just people not knowing the full story.

      For a 1Z/AHU swap:
      -68 wires to deal with
      -do not need a cluster at all
      -brake light switches and clutch switches can just be grounded with no ill effects
      -you do not need the VSS at all
      -stuff like the fuel gauge and such are not tied in with the ecu


      If you want to use the factory cruise control which is built into the ecu you need to run a VSS and have correctly working brake/clutch switches but even this is no big deal. If you just do nothing with the switches you get a blinking GP light.. thats it.

      I have a AHU in my 1986 4Runner. The ecu has no idea its not in a Jetta anymore.

      Many **** Piles
      -Ryan

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