just to clarify.. -10 is NOT 1".. -16 is an inch.
-4 is 1/4, -6 is 3/8, -8 is half an inch and -10 is 5/8 and -12 is 3/4
Yea, I knew that...the scavenger happens to be -10 as well so it's probably the best size to go with...I'm still trying to figure out if the 3/8" tubing is too small to draw the vapor through.
The RS5 has something in the exhaust...Clarkson explains it, but I can't remember exactly what causes the rumble. I think it's just there to be there though, lol.
Ok, after talking to a tech I think I have come up with my catch can solution...and it's way easier than what I had previous.
Block breather>-10AN adapter>AN line>catch can. Done.
The positive pressure from the block should push the vapor out the breather just like it would in a stock application; and since it's a closed system all blow by will collect in the can. I will empty it frequently and it should be without issue. The scavenger brings up a couple complications; one being that if it's not working...I won't know. At least with the can I know I am venting and I know that there is no change of a backfire into the block, nor any vapor getting caught in multiple feet of lines. I wish I thought of this earlier...I have to buy a new catch can and some fittings...again.
I'm thinking I will cap it off. I will have the outlet made as either NPT, barb, or perhaps even have the guy just leave it with an inlet (I would prefer a cap though so I can run it somewhere else in the future if need be.) But ya, no filter. I want a completely closed system; I will just monitor it and empty it regularly. I'm going to mount it somewhere below the expansion tank but I need to figure out a mounting system.
Ya, I thought about that on the drive home...
I MIGHT get the AN fitting on the inlet, and then use a barb on the outlet and have the pressure flow back into the stock pancake valve in the TIP. OR, I could vent it via a filter...which I have no problem doing; I'm just not sure about the smell.
Either way, I think I've opted out of the scavenger idea, if anyone wants it let me know, I will cut you a deal
I think that's my final decision. My pancake valve seems to operate properly and my catch can will grab all the blow by while still allowing the vapor to return through the intake as designed in the stock system. I am going to get the catch can made with a -10AN inlet and a 1" hose barb outlet, this way it will mate directly to the stock valve and be fairly clean. Mainly because I can't find a -10AN = 1" hose barb fitting anywhere.
Ya I don't either...I might even out it right after the catch can. The only reason I like keeping it is because it is designed to allow air to pass through but not allow oil residue, so although I have the catch can to grab (hopefully) most of it, I still have the added security of the factory system that monitors pressure into the TIP.
The pancake valve lets oil get by. That is why your entire intake track to the throttle body has oil residue. The pancake valve is designed to close after a certain amount of positive pressure, iirc. Or something like that. I'm too lazy to search, but it does not function as a check valve. And to have a catch can be effective, it needs to have a baffle on it. Those passages are what really traps the oil (my old 034 vortex one worked in like an affect of having the blow by spin in the catch can, oil stick to the walls, and only the blow by gas would exit through the outlet). If no baffle is on the catch can, then you need to create your own baffle, such as steel wool placed in it (not quite sure the proper one to use, which won't shred and have metal strands end up in your engine).
And if Nic does not want the E-Scavenger, I'll take it. It must be SS though, and not mild steel.
The pancake valve should only allow air to pass by; in which there will be a mild amount of oil vapor but when functioning properly oil should not pass through (according to what I can find, I've spend way too much time reading about PCV, lol). A simple blow through test on mine reveals it is worn out. I am going to pick up a new valve today and run it in the stock location; however I will run the line across the front of the motor to hide it, it will then go under the IM and to my catch can. I emailed the Saikou Michi guy last night requesting his smallest can with a -10AN inlet and a 7/8" outlet (As far as I know all his cans are baffled accordingly but I will confirm when I hear back.)
This way, as I see it, the can will catch the oil vapor in the blow by (which I will drain manually), and the positive pressure from the crankcase will re-circulate through the intake as designed. I figure this is the closest to OEM application I can run without all the clutter...and let's face it, that valve under the IM with the T-fitting is just asking for a boost leak.
On the list for today:
plug IM bung for PCV system
Install power steering cooler
clean the passenger side of the bay a little more
No worries, I'll be totally honest; before last night I was foggy at best on how the whole system operated anyway, lol. Now that I feel I at least know how the stock system is supposed to work I can accurately come up with a breather solution with fewer weak points, and more importantly; less clutter...the hotside of my bay looks sooooooo empty and I haven't even really deleted anything.
No worries Rob, I'm going to pick one up today.
gear, not yet but I will shortly, I also fitted the passat power steering cover. I am thinking about going 2.0 FSI coils, a couple of my coils are cracking a bit and TBH I feel like me having them for 5 years problem free is more than good enough.