'03 Eurovan exhaust

[napman41]

Now that it's time to replace the center muffler assembly on my '03 Eurovan, I'm wondering if's there's a good aftermarket unit or even an upgrade system anyone coulld or would recoomend. I lucked out and was able to remove the center muffler without much hassle. I'm guessing i should just change out both the front and read mufflers all at once. Any suggestions, should I just go with the OEM parts or do some sort of upgrade ?

[99blackmagic]

i faced this issue this summer and didn't consider aftermarket due to all the bends and crap.

i ordered mid and rear replacements from europarts_sd and installed myself (with another pair of hands) in about 1 hour.

[max asst]

Hello, I'm about to do the same; Aside from the obvious mufflers, how much of the other parts are reusable: gaskets, clamps, hangers, mounts?

[chendermi]

Hangers and mounts likely reusable.
Clamps, no way.
No gaskets used, though I did wonder if I could/should have used some kind of sealant at the pipe joints.

[gti_matt]

Hangers and mounts likely reusable.
Clamps, no way.
No gaskets used, though I did wonder if I could/should have used some kind of sealant at the pipe joints.

A tight clamp should be fine at the joints (if you're sure the fit is good, a super-tight clamp will actually slightly crimp the pipes together....great for sealing but might not ever come off again in a future replacement).

However, I recommend some high-temperature lube paste from your local FLAPS. This might help resist corrosion at the joints. Spread it on liberally on the inner pipe at each joint and then insert the pipes together. Your local FLAPS should have it, usually in a small tube.

[BusDaddy]

O.K. Caveat first....I don't have this exhaust on my 02 Eurovan yet, in fact it is still being shipped. That said, Remus makes a system specifically for the 2.8 l VR6 motor. It is not a full system, rather, I'm thinking it starts behind the cat. I ordered this system from the Remus distributor here in the states. They never carry any in stock and the order time is long as it gets shipped (litterally....a ship) from Austria. As compared with the high quality stuff that Matt showed via Eurovan Campers, it is expensive.

I have installed Remus equipment on two motorcycles and their quality has always been top notch...unlike that crap the many sport bike guys put on their GXSRs that have to be repacked every 6 months.

If you want to know more, pm me. I don't want to put the price info up as I'm not promoting them and I don't want to get flamed by the more conservative members of our forum. For me, it is worth it as I enjoy playing with this stuff and making my van different.

Craig

[max asst]

Okay, thanks to gtimatt, and the link to eurocampers, I think I have a source.

http://secure.mycart.net/catalogs/ca...showprevnext=1

If I purchase all the parts recommended for my year-model as directed by the webpage above, is it complete? I don't mind running to the local parts store for generic things like clamps, but the specific things that I cannot fabricate need to be purchased up front so I can install this myself.

Can someone verify that the listed items are thorough and comprehensive? I'll probably buy here if so.

Is this a job I can do on the driveway? I have only used ramps on the front when changing oil, and it seems that I would have enough room to access the exhaust by using the ramps. I have a reciprocating saw with 1.25inch travel to slice up the pipes, but am wondering if I risk peck-peck-pecking into the cabin floor.

I'll probably do this project in the next half month because the noise is getting louder and I'm worried about that check engine light which I'll check After the exhaust is done.

[gti_matt]

If you are only doing after the cat you don't need everything there. I am going to guess that from the engine to the (and including the) cat you are keeping original, therefore you don't need the "Gasket, front pipe to cat".

Exhaust hangars can be re-used but I'd say while you're in there might want to replace them anyway as they're probably kinda cracked/old.

[hubsch]

I did this last fall and it took 2 hours...about 45 min. to remove carefully and 45 min. to install...
I took the complete "old" exhaust and laid next to the new to cut the longer pipe that comes with
the middle muffler...about a half-hour of quadruple checking before cutting...I did not even put the van on ramps...

[gti_matt]

Yeah I think unlike some other VWs (e.g.: the Mk2 Golf/Jetta) where the exhaust goes over the rear axle (Eurovan is IRS), no cutting is required to get it out (unless there's just an initial cut to initially disconnect it, but probably not a second cut to wiggle it all out).

[max asst]

Okay, I'm almost committed to ordering the items, meaning I'm close to confident in installing the exhaust. Why the detail? Well, I'm doing this job alone and I have a bad right shoulder and left knee.

Here's my plan of attack:

1. I will order these:

1H0253139D Exhaust Clamp - 1997-2003 EuroVan - all (2 req.) $4.62;
023253409AJ Center Muffler/Resonator - DANSK, 1997-2003 EuroVan $128.25;
3A0253144 Exhaust hanger, rear of center muffler, 1 required '97-'03 EuroVan $8.82;
044253609AH Rear Muffler, Dansk, 1997-2003 EuroVan $143.34;
1H0253144C Exhaust hanger, rear muffler, 2 required '97-'03 EuroVan $7.06

total is $303.77 plus shipping (estimated at $60-ish)

2. Our MV is lowered using torsion bar adj and thin spring perch plates method so I'll use ramps under front wheels to get underneath. I'll make notes of how far away the tubes/mufflers are located from the body, then

3. Detach exhaust parts from hangers and cut tube just after the connection past the cat converter tube.

4. Replace all hangers and lubricate with RUGlyde, a safe rubber protectant used on tires.

5. Pre-fit exhaust pipes/tubes/mufflers after placing high temperature lube paste at mating surfaces.

6. Measure and measure again new center pipe after laying new parts beside old parts. Cut to size using sawzall.

7. Fit all pipes together and clamp lightly, place the front part of the exhaust system on a rolling seat and slide under the van. Starting from rear, I will hang the entire assembly onto hangers and clamp lightly where it meets the cat pipe.

8. Check measurements or clearance of tubes/pipes/mufflers from body, adjusting as necessary before final clamp down.

9. Drive with windows up and stereo off to listen for clunks or rattles. If present, repeat steps 8+9.

10. Tell the wifey how much money I have saved us which is, hmmm... $150-200?


Does this seem to be comprehensive? Should I proceed?

[dapolrbear]

Sounds like a good plan.

I'm considering replacing the stock exhaust on my MVWK soon too. Prob order from eurocamper too. The only thing is that the rear muffler looks different from my stock one, the one in the pic looks to be round my stock one looks more boxy with rounded edges. I wonder if they are the same?

[max asst]

I agree, the rear muffler cross section looks round, so I will verify with the company that what I'll receive is indeed a replacement part.

[hubsch]

Just saw your sig line...regular lechon or lechon kawali?

[max asst]

Hubsch,

As you removed the exhaust, where did you specifically cut? Did you cut the bolts of the clamps? Did you cut the pipes themselves? I don't plan on reusing hangers or clamps. I just placed the order for the whole deal so I won't waste time having to deal with rusty parts.

btw, I like it regular: nice, hot and crispy the first day, and kawali the next morning. Go Pacquiao!

[rajdude]

Sorry for a little late to this party.

I replaced my 2003 EV’s mufflers last year. I bought them from autopartswarehouse.com. Very good price. The brand was Bosal. The fit was almost perfect [more on that later]. You do have to cut the rear muffler pipe. That is standard stuff. They make it long to accommodate the Camper model.

The install is easy. There is plenty of space down there to work. My pipes were already rusted through [at only 60k miles] remind me to never buy a VW again!! HA HA. My benz’s mufflers were stil OK when I sold them at over 150k miles.

There was a slight issue with the tailpipe. It is too close to the plastic rear bumper [cover]. And it sticks out slightly more than the stock muffler. Of course I have tried adjusting it but the rubber stoppers / hangers limit forward movement.

Also the Bosal clamp was too loose and just one year down the line it is all rusty

Will I buy them again….probably no………..but the price was way too low compared to OEM. So ya, maybe I will just modify the hangars a little [bang on them to bend them??]


PS: in my van...hangars and mounts were re-usable.

[dapolrbear]

Thanks for the reply. The Bosal rear muffler shape different from the stock one? The pictures online look like a tubed shaped muffler and the stock one seem to be more boxier. Does the new one sound different from the stock one?

[HUNTERDOG]

I replaced mine about two years ago with factory VW parts. (I am lucky enough to be the VW parts manager and get my parts at 10% over cost). I remember doing it during my lunch hour and the hardest part was cutting through the stainless pipes to make the connection between the two mufflers (you have to trim the new pipe to fit). The factory replacement parts carry a full lifetime warranty.

[max asst]

Okay, the stuff is here. It arrived in one big, long box.

I'm still pensive about doing this project. Hopefully as I disassemble the rusty exhaust, the process of installation will be clearer. The metal bars that are attached to the mufflers point in opposite directions which implies that I'll slide one hanger onto the mount and then bolt the other mount onto the body while considering at what point I slide the new pipes together and onto the catalytic converter end.

One of the received hangers/mounts was slightly different from ordered, but the dimensions seem compatible.

PolarBear, Exhaust is round in the rear, but the dimensions seem to be proper.

RajDude, I will look at the clearance of the tailpipe and rear bumper, but I don't think that I'll bend the bars that attach to the hanger in order to achieve better clearance. If I can't adjust it correctly, I'll just cut off the tailpipe and get a nice shiny add-on; need to decide Folgers or Torke brand yet.

HunterDog, what tools do I need? I was planning on using a sawzall to cut the bolts, then pry the clamps off with a prybar, followed by unbolting the hangers/mounts, then kicking or hammering to separate the tubes apart.

I hope the rain goes away and ground dries up enough for me to install this afternoon.

Here we go!

[dapolrbear]

Awesome, good luck with the install.

[max asst]

It took me an hour to remove the old rusty exhaust, primarily because of a few "features": suspension is lowered so I needed to elevate the rear, I have a Curt trailer hitch which got in the way of removing the pipe, I didn't have the exact socket size so I used box wrenches or adjusable wrenches as the clamp after the cat converter was quite corroded and rounded off, and my shoulder was really sore before I even started.

Got it out by using 1/2 inch socket at all hangers and cutting just between center clamp and middle muffler. I couldn't get my sawzall to cut the bolt at the front clamp that was corroded and rounded. Fortunately all the threads stripped off and the bolt disintegrated to nothing, so it was easy to wrench off.

Took a break to cook dinner and feed the boys, and show them the old and new exhausts while I took pictures.

Assembly was easier and took about 45 minutes. I cut 40cm off the pipe as per instructions, and proceeded to assemble the exhaust system as follows:
1. slide front tube of middle muffler over cat converter tube with clamp loose but hanger tight.
2. feed the rear exhaust piece over the anti-sway bars (this is where I needed to jack up the rear) and prop rear muffler with box.
3. place hangers on and bolt tightly to body, as there isn't much adjustibility here.
4. clamps suppled were not exact; just sort of in between, but the circumference of front tube and middle tube were different. Clamp at front worked fine, but clamp at middle was very slack, so I cut a crescent of tube from the old exhaust and used it as a spacer, which worked fine.
5. I saw that the tailpipe was within 2mm of touching the rear bumper, so I used my pry bar to gently bend the tailpipe but it wasn't enough so I placed galvanized washers, 3 thick, to create some clearance between rear hanger and the body.
6. Pushing the pipes as high as I can towards the body, I tightened the clamps as hard as I could with the box wrench.
7. Clearance between the hanger just forward of the rear muffler was very close to the body, but as I wiggled everything and took a test drive, even pumping the accelerator, nothing clunked.
8. Scratched my head, thinking, "Okay, so now how do I dispose of the old junk exhaust"

I'd like to post pictures, but don't have a site to upload. Is there a way to post them here directly?

[hubsch]

Just take the old exhaust and ask your local muffler shop and they should take the scraps...

[rajdude]

yes, it is slightly different... it is cylindrical.....like a tube....but it fits fine. The sound is the same as the OEM's

Thanks for the reply. The Bosal rear muffler shape different from the stock one? The pictures online look like a tubed shaped muffler and the stock one seem to be more boxier. Does the new one sound different from the stock one?

[rajdude]

.....The factory replacement parts carry a full lifetime warranty.

well, my stock ones lasted only 5 years..........the life time warranty is no good for me :-(

The price difference was so big that I calculated I might as well replace them three times !

[bolt5]

I also went with Eurocampers - seemed like a good price. I am much slower than you guys - I took all morning. I had to cut at the joint between the mid and rear mufflers - fortunately it was rusted pretty thin. I also bit of a fight getting the joint at the cat end free. Assembly was pretty straightforward on mine as well. Next time I will leave an extra cm or two on the cut end because I had to play with things a bit to get enough overlap at the two clamp joints. I actually received two clamp sizes, so I didn't need to make a shim. My tailpipe was right at the bumper plastic so I reused the old hanger which gave a little more clearance. It looks good cold. I had some water vapor at the joints when I started it. I tightened the clamps (I don't have any torque specs). We'll see how it looks after running at temperature. I don't know how tight these things run.

Thanks for posting your info. I haven't checked the local dealer's prices, but that you probably saved that $150 on just the parts.

[chendermi]

You can take a long pipe and slip it over the welded pin that fits into the rear hanger. Then lift up on the pipe and bend up the pin. The tailpipe will then clear the rear bumper cover.

I used Wurth exhaust assembly paste the last time I did the exhaust system. Seemed to make things easier, but it's not like I do this every day.

Yes, the clamp at the cat to mid-muffler pipe is larger than the one at the mid-muffler to rear-muffler pipe connection.

[Founderct]

I called my local VW dealer a few days ago to get an estimate and this is what the parts department told me. Current dealer price for the resonator is $290, muffler $290, labor to install $200. So we're looking at over $800 for dealer to install a factory exhaust.

I paid $330 (shipped) for 3 hangers, two clamps, one resonator and one muffler from Eurocampers.com. The resonator was made in Germany (ERNST brand) and the exhaust was an exact match right down to the squarish profile and flared exhaust tip. Took me 3 hours to remove old parts and installed the new parts. Did not have to raise the van at all. I had to use a hack saw to cut where the rear of the resonator meets with the front of the muffler. Luckily both rusted bolts broke loose and clamps came off easily. The tail end of the new resonator had to be cut 400mm (15.7inches) to fit the EV Weekender short wheel base.

I also purchased some high temperature grease to lube the mating section of pipes and clamps. Hopefully it will help in removal 70K from today. Van currently has 77,000 miles on her.

I had to angled the muffler under the spare tire towards the right back corner of the van before I was able to pull her over the rear anti sway bar and out the back. Once the muffler is out, disconnect the resonator hanger, support the resonator with your leg and rotate the resonator with your hands, if you're lucky like me it will begin to back its way off the catalytic converter. Make sure you find some thing ( I used a small card board box with some scrap wood) to support the bottom of the catalytic converter before you remove the resonator off its hanger. This will help to reduce any stress on the front end of the cat.

There was a hanger at the front of the resonator that I would have liked to replace also, but this part was not available on line. It is different from the other three such that it hooks on to a bent U shaped rod instead of being screwed on from both sides with a flange. Not sure where to get this hanger, may be dealer?

Savings $500, experience priceless...

Hope this info helps some other EV owner.

[eckk1976]

well, my stock ones lasted only 5 years..........the life time warranty is no good for me :-(

The price difference was so big that I calculated I might as well replace them three times !

So, why couldn't you get a free replacement?