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    Thread: Cold weather - engine oil light, no start! Stupid FSI

    1. Member Kid Hobo's Avatar
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      01-20-2008 12:12 PM #1
      Woke up this morning to start the car and tried to turn the engine over. The battery is fine, but the car wouldn't start. So before letting it just go and go, I let off the ignition and tried it again. Then I got the "Oil Pressure" warning light message...
      Stupid FSI won't start. Have to call a tow truck in a few minutes unless for some reason the damn thing starts on its own...
      Any help, or suggestions before I off myself?
      Edit: the the cause right now it seems is that I was running 100 oct race gas, which, in really cold weather is a bad bad idea on cold start-ups.


      Modified by Kid Hobo at 1:55 PM 1-21-2008
      Adjusting my lifestyle with the grace and wisdom of a potato.

    2. 01-20-2008 12:14 PM #2
      does the engine actually turn over or does it not even turn over? can you scan it for dtc's

    3. Member Kid Hobo's Avatar
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      01-20-2008 12:17 PM #3
      Engine turns over, but I can't scan... no vag com here. But there's no CEL's either.
      My guess is the oil pump froze up, or the coil packs froze, or god is punishing me.
      Adjusting my lifestyle with the grace and wisdom of a potato.

    4. Member Kid Hobo's Avatar
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      01-20-2008 12:25 PM #4
      So this is my second 2.0T, and one thing I'm certain of is that when it comes to cold weather... the FSI is a heaping pile of junk. I had the same cold start issues with my 06 and I do now with my 08. I'm buying a damn Honda next time.
      Adjusting my lifestyle with the grace and wisdom of a potato.

    5. 01-20-2008 12:26 PM #5
      Quote, originally posted by Kid Hobo »
      Engine turns over, but I can't scan... no vag com here. But there's no CEL's either.
      My guess is the oil pump froze up, or the coil packs froze, or god is punishing me.

      if your oil pump locked up the engine would not turn over and i don't see a frozen coil pack happening when you just turn the ignition on do you get a check engine light solid on the dashboard to let you know the ecu is in proper running order?

    6. Member Kid Hobo's Avatar
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      01-20-2008 12:32 PM #6
      Quote, originally posted by jc@douglas »
      if your oil pump locked up the engine would not turn over and i don't see a frozen coil pack happening when you just turn the ignition on do you get a check engine light solid on the dashboard to let you know the ecu is in proper running order?

      Hmm... that's interesting. I can hear something pumping in the engine bay, driver side I think, but it's not sounding like it's happy. As for the CEL, there are no solid lights that are lit, only the MFD that gives me the Oil logo and the message found on section 3.2 pg 48 in the owners manual. Nothin else...
      3.2 pg 48 Warning light: engine oil pressure.
      I checked oil levels (just got an oil change btw) and levels are fine.
      Adjusting my lifestyle with the grace and wisdom of a potato.

    7. 01-20-2008 12:35 PM #7
      you are getting the oil light because you are cranking the car and it's not starting, but if you have no check engine light on solid when the key is on accessory with out the car running you have a problem [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    8. Member Kid Hobo's Avatar
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      01-20-2008 12:40 PM #8
      Quote, originally posted by jc@douglas »
      you are getting the oil light because you are cranking the car and it's not starting, but if you have no check engine light on solid when the key is on accessory with out the car running you have a problem [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      poopie
      New car - check
      Only 3400 miles - check
      Engine problems - check
      Well... I guess I really am screwed. I'll have to tow it.
      Adjusting my lifestyle with the grace and wisdom of a potato.

    9. Member Kid Hobo's Avatar
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      01-20-2008 01:03 PM #9
      Well, despite my better judgement, I went ahead and gave it a couple more tries to get the thing started (I was in F-it mode).
      First time, same thing.
      Second time, some sputter.
      Third time, more sputter.
      Fourth time, sputter and then finally a start.
      No check engine lights for now. Nor service indicators. But I'll try get VAGcom to scann for DTCs to see if anything is stored in there.
      Adjusting my lifestyle with the grace and wisdom of a potato.

    10. 01-20-2008 07:34 PM #10
      Good to hear that it's running again. I'm sure Rich at Dubwerks, Conrad at City VW, or Autobarn MP will scan you. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Hell, I would, but I'm so far west.
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    11. Member rracerguy717's Avatar
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      01-21-2008 07:41 AM #11
      Quote, originally posted by Kid Hobo »
      Well, despite my better judgement, I went ahead and gave it a couple more tries to get the thing started (I was in F-it mode).
      First time, same thing.
      Second time, some sputter.
      Third time, more sputter.
      Fourth time, sputter and then finally a start.
      No check engine lights for now. Nor service indicators. But I'll try get VAGcom to scann for DTCs to see if anything is stored in there.

      Did you change to a colder plug??? or still on the stock plug ??
      I would suggest putting new set of plugs in sounds like there fouled a bit . Bob.G
      Read below about mine and other fsi stage 3 owners bad experience and poor results with APR and there Stage 3 Kits. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ge-3-dyno-runs
      Quote Originally Posted by jhines_06gli View Post
      I'd say you have nothing to worry about, but then again.....you are driving a modified VW. You have EVERYTHING to worry about!!!
      -J. Hines

    12. Member Kid Hobo's Avatar
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      01-21-2008 10:23 AM #12
      Quote, originally posted by rracerguy717 »
      Did you change to a colder plug??? or still on the stock plug ??
      I would suggest putting new set of plugs in sounds like there fouled a bit . Bob.G

      Given that I'm running Stg1+ on the Uni software, from what I know the Unitronic flash runs agressive advanced timing, maybe even more so than anyone else. I also ran a couple tanks of 100 octane unleaded race gas that day (uh... btw, WOW!), which I don't know how, but might have contributed to a fouled a plug or two?
      The plugs sound like a reasonable and easiest place to start looking. And I'll have to wait till I get the time to run up to Dubwerks to run a full scan. Either way, I've been intending on getting a set of 1 heat range colder NGK or Bosch plugs.
      Right now, I'm going to leave my guess' open.
      With a bit of luck, I might be able to convince high-command (gf), that the reason the car almost got us stranded was because my turbo wasn't big enough.
      Thanks for the input guys.
      Cheers,
      KH
      Adjusting my lifestyle with the grace and wisdom of a potato.

    13. Banner Advertiser Chris@Revo USA's Avatar
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      01-21-2008 10:51 AM #13
      Quote, originally posted by Kid Hobo »
      Given that I'm running Stg1+ on the Uni software, from what I know the Unitronic flash runs agressive advanced timing, maybe even more so than anyone else. I also ran a couple tanks of 100 octane unleaded race gas that day (uh... btw, WOW!), which I don't know how, but might have contributed to a fouled a plug or two?

      When did you run the 100 octane? recently like right before you parked it? That could certainly lead to cold start issues if its still in the tank.
      As for the timing, It should not be changing any kind of start up timing, so the chip is also unlikely the answer.
      Its cold..probably really cold where you are since its also pretty cold in GA. While FSI should start better in the cold then a manifold injection car I noticed that in the winter when I Was still in nj that was not the case.

    14. Member Kid Hobo's Avatar
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      01-21-2008 12:15 PM #14
      Quote, originally posted by chris@revotechnik »
      When did you run the 100 octane? recently like right before you parked it? That could certainly lead to cold start issues if its still in the tank.
      As for the timing, It should not be changing any kind of start up timing, so the chip is also unlikely the answer.
      Its cold..probably really cold where you are since its also pretty cold in GA. While FSI should start better in the cold then a manifold injection car I noticed that in the winter when I Was still in nj that was not the case.

      Yep, there was still 100 oct in the tank. As for cold, it probably hit -10 at night and was around 5 degrees when I tried to start it. And why would 100 oct make a difference in start up? Part of my logical brain would want to think that the 100 oct would ignite better in cold temps... or am I not seeing another perspective?

      Regarding the timing, I never thought it was the software really. I don't know my way around timing and mapping, but it makes sense in a start up cycle that there would be no change from stock at start up, only during higher revs does the mapping change. But in relation to the plugs and heat range, based on what Bob brought up, I keep wanting to think/believe that that's where the issue could lie (including possible coil pack issue)... but then again, with no codes it's all conjecture for now.
      I need to buy a Ross Key. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Adjusting my lifestyle with the grace and wisdom of a potato.

    15. Member rracerguy717's Avatar
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      01-21-2008 12:31 PM #15
      Quote, originally posted by Kid Hobo »
      Yep, there was still 100 oct in the tank . As for cold, it probably hit -10 at night and was around 5 degrees when I tried to start it. And why would 100 oct make a difference in start up? Part of my logical brain would want to think that the 100 oct would ignite better in cold temps... or am I not seeing another perspective?

      Thats the problem as Chris was pointing it out . Bob.G
      Read below about mine and other fsi stage 3 owners bad experience and poor results with APR and there Stage 3 Kits. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ge-3-dyno-runs
      Quote Originally Posted by jhines_06gli View Post
      I'd say you have nothing to worry about, but then again.....you are driving a modified VW. You have EVERYTHING to worry about!!!
      -J. Hines

    16. Banner Advertiser Chris@Revo USA's Avatar
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      01-21-2008 01:11 PM #16
      Quote, originally posted by Kid Hobo »
      Yep, there was still 100 oct in the tank. As for cold, it probably hit -10 at night and was around 5 degrees when I tried to start it. And why would 100 oct make a difference in start up? Part of my logical brain would want to think that the 100 oct would ignite better in cold temps... or am I not seeing another perspective?

      Dumbed down version of how octane works..
      higher number harder to ignite
      lower number easier to ignite.
      So you have a cold engine which already makes it difficult to ignite the fuel, with fuel that is harder to ignite to begin with. I'd say thats 100% your issue.

    17. Member Kid Hobo's Avatar
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      01-21-2008 01:59 PM #17

      I like the dumbed down version. But do please help in one area, will changing the plugs to a heat range colder help with race gas and cold start up situations?
      Thanks,
      KH
      Adjusting my lifestyle with the grace and wisdom of a potato.

    18. Member rracerguy717's Avatar
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      01-21-2008 02:07 PM #18
      Quote, originally posted by Kid Hobo »

      I like the dumbed down version. But do please help in one area, will changing the plugs to a heat range colder help with race gas and cold start up situations?
      Thanks,
      KH

      In the winter it will make it WORSE. Bob.G
      Read below about mine and other fsi stage 3 owners bad experience and poor results with APR and there Stage 3 Kits. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ge-3-dyno-runs
      Quote Originally Posted by jhines_06gli View Post
      I'd say you have nothing to worry about, but then again.....you are driving a modified VW. You have EVERYTHING to worry about!!!
      -J. Hines

    19. 01-21-2008 02:08 PM #19
      how cold is it their? it was 11 here yesterday my 2L fsi started fine with one heat range colder but my moms 2.5L was a bitch to start and once it did it missed for like 20 seconds before smoothing out

    20. Member Kid Hobo's Avatar
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      01-21-2008 03:15 PM #20
      about -10 to my highest recorded temp on the car's temp sensor which was +9, so still 23 degrees below freezing.
      Adjusting my lifestyle with the grace and wisdom of a potato.

    21. 01-21-2008 03:17 PM #21
      Quote, originally posted by Kid Hobo »
      about -10 to my highest recorded temp on the car's temp sensor which was +9, so still 23 degrees below freezing.

      yea that deff cold

    22. Member Fahrvergnuugen's Avatar
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      01-21-2008 03:33 PM #22
      Is your driver's side door switch working?
      When you open the door it turns the feeder pump in the fuel tank on. My door switch is bad and the car starts hard when it's cold. If I turn the key and wait a second, then start it, it starts easier.

    23. 01-21-2008 03:46 PM #23
      Quote, originally posted by Kid Hobo »
      Engine turns over, but I can't scan... no vag com here. But there's no CEL's either.
      My guess is the oil pump froze up, or the coil packs froze, or god is punishing me.

      I spoke to God and he said that had you driven that cold day, there was a snowplow some 4 miles from your house that was going to level your car...and you were going to die

    24. Member Kid Hobo's Avatar
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      01-21-2008 03:58 PM #24
      Yeppers, I tried the ignition wait. The door switch was fine, I can hear it priming. In fact, I always wait an extra 5-10 seconds after getting into my car and turn the ignition switch to accessory mode. It's a simple thing to just put on my seatbelt before I actually start the car and gives the fluids just enough tender time to prime. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      As for the snow plow... well, I was parked in the street, but in the sticks I was sticking out like a sore thumb, I mean seriously, Sandwich Illinois! Imagine what that tow bill back to Chicago would have been! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthdown.gif[/IMG]
      Adjusting my lifestyle with the grace and wisdom of a potato.

    25. 01-21-2008 04:36 PM #25
      ditch the 100 octane...the ethonol that is in the gas causes longer starts but 100% race gas with no cut it take forever to turn over. If the oil light came on check the oil and keep cranking... just cuz the light comes on with no engine running doesnt mean somthing is messed up..The light came on from whatever presure you created by cranking it over. Next time run a 60% race gas 40% 93... you will have better luck.

    26. 03-13-2009 10:44 AM #26
      you could get some glow plugs.....

      old thread... sorry!

    27. 03-13-2009 09:12 PM #27
      Call that truck. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    28. Member Gtiupb2002's Avatar
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      03-14-2009 10:24 AM #28
      I had this same problem in my A3 the day after buying it, I would crank it over till the car seemed to warm up then it would start. I tried to wait a few seconds like stated above but that didnt work for me. I finally took it to the dealer and had it fixed under warranty. I think they said my fuel pressure sendor or sensor was bad, it was a sensor that had to do with the fueling. They replaced that and I have not had this problem again so far [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      APR stg2+hpfp+W/M(100oct)

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