So i did a little carpet yanking today. I drove about an hour and a half each way to pick up some new shinnies...
So the PO had an alarm put it the car. It was the Avital 2100. I didn't plan on using it so I decided to take it out. The gas gauge and the turn signals were also not working so I thought I'd clean up the wiring a bit. Long story short, I've removed the alarm, the gauges and turn signals now work... (and here is the punchline) the car won't start. To be clear, the when I turn the key to accessories, everything turns on properly but when I crank it, nothing happens. So I need to reconnect the wire(s) that would have gone through the alarm that didnt not allow the car to be turned on while the alarm would have been going off.
The problem is that, I don't know which wire that is. There are two wires that was left disconnected that weren't already disconnected... Two of them are the hot/switched wires red/yellow, the white one was disconnected previously and the purple wire is spliced into a white wire under the dash so that left the two brown wires.
And some good news...
So I started ripping the tape off... and removed the splice that had the red and yellow power wires pictured previously. The were just wrapped and taped.
Found some more ugly splicing but at least they soldered the one connection to the main live wire (upper left of the picture)
After removing the add on fuse block... the reason why the starter would do nothing when I cranked it. the main power to the starter was spliced and tabbed and was plugged into the alarm.
So I took the splice out... I still need to is to weld and heat wrap the red wire with the black stripe and heat wrap the other wires that were spliced and I should be all set. The red and yellow wires are the power supply to the radio, which I'll deal with later.
And here it is almost done!
Quote, originally posted by Cheney » you just cant give up on the old ones, keep up the good work, itll all be worth it in the end
and let me know if you need any help, i should be done with school by mid may
Just in time for the engine work.
Quote, originally posted by 86westy » Keep up the good work.
I'm sure there is one of these out there for your model. I blew it up and made a poster out of it for the garage wall. Makes things real easy. This one is for type 1.
Good idea on creating a poster!
Quote, originally posted by sgtpeppper11 » nice progress!!!
wat kind of carpet you putting in??
I'm still not 100% sure. I'm leaning towards getting oatmeal or similar light carpet with a little bit darker surround color. Kinda like this...
So its a snow crappy day out so I needed an indoor project...
So the sliders that came on the driver's seat looked like this...
Initially, they don't look that odd unless you know what one of them looks like... but when you look at the other side... its kind of obvious...
Yes, the PO welded about a 3" piece of diamond plating to raise the seat. I'm not a tall guy (5'9") but that still made me twist my neck a little while driving so that wasn't going to stay...
So I was lucky enough to borrow a friend's punches (thanks Ant) to take the seats apart. Each of the handles have an 1/8" retaining post in them.
So I took both seats apart, wired brushed the loose crap on them and hit them with some textured spray paint... It didn't come out too bad at all.
Modified by RafCarre12 at 1:04 PM 2-22-2008
So this morning's "project" was to test fit the Porsche turbo (7 slots) on the car. I bought 4 to 5x130 adapters and the appropriate lugs and so on. The front wheel went on just fine and looks pretty good. The rear adapters are hitting the rear brake drum retaining bolts however (they're allen headed). I know I could probably take the adapters to a machine shop to have small wells drilled out to accommodate but I was thinking that perhaps there was a source for flush mount versions for the brake drums. As it turns out, since the bolts are on perfect opposite sides of the brake drum, one of them is right in line with an existing hole that one of the newly patterned bolt goes into.
So after finding out that those bolts aren't really needed, I went and tried to take off the bolts... only to find out that I don't own a 6mm hex socket so I make my way down to my hardware store and pick up a small set... happy camper... so I get home and spray the bolts with a little WD40 type stuff... have some lemonade, play with the pup a little... I go back and the first one comes off like a drunk sorority girl's panties. So I'm happy... go release the e-brake... spin the drum around so the other bolt is TDC... I start to turn it and slam! I ****ing punch the ground... stripped head!!! So I hammer in a screwdriver to see if that will loose it... nope. I'm pissed at this point so I go have another lemonade... I call a couple of friends to see if they have any magical advice... they all laughed. (****ers) so I went and got my trusty drill and took off the bolt, whacked the head with a hammer and VICTORY!
In this picture, you can see the hole in the bottom hole and the trunk of the other one still in the hole... I figured I'd just as well leave it in there so it is still doing its job of indexing the plate as Russ explained in the previous post.
So the adapters I got from CIP went on very quickly...
So why are you going through all this dumbness to run adapters instead of re-drilling and replacing things? Well, I'm lazy and I've run adapters in my other car (that has about 5x time HP) without any issues.
So the wheels that are going on are Porsche Turbos A.K.A. 7 slots. They aren't refinished yet but this was just a test fit so I could see what size tires I am going to want to run. They're 16x7 and 16x8 with et53.
There is maybe 1/8" poke on the front wheel... nothing the fender roller won't be able to take care of easily. I think the wheel is turned a little even. The tire is 205/55/16.
Here is the 3/4" (maybe 7/8") poke on the rear wheel. The tire in the picture is 225/50/16... I doubt I'll go that wide with the actual wheels but I think they look pretty cool.
The car is still at stock ride height so I took pictures of the fender gaps...
Out front... a little over 3 inches:
In back... about 2 /14 inches:
And for the last picture... if anyone asks you how 225 series tires on 8" wheels look like on a square, here you go:
Modified by RafCarre12 at 6:45 PM 2-23-2008