Its odd, but after you do it once it's really no longer a pain. Also, the first time sucked because the monkeys at the dealer who did the last freebie oil change cranked the filter on there so tight. Once I got it off, and put the new one the correct way, I use a end cap filter wrench to break it free and then turn by hand...and when I re-install I hand tighten it, then 1/4 turn with the end cap wrench....no need to sock it on there....
Oh, and I take the filter from below, sliding it down towards the driver side a bit and then pushing it through by a coolant hose...
Sean