Damn, that's what I thought. But it fixed it all? No more problems like we are having? Ever?
Well I have a CEL still for my air intake sensor which i replaced but I still have the light. It runs a whole lot better.
Try the classifieds for some of the parts to save money.
Modified by teknoracing at 6:31 PM 2-5-2008
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Car almost made me late for work this morning
I took it to a performance shop, and they found 18 trouble codes with the vag-com. They were all cleared and the throttle body was re-adapted. Runs great now, just like normal. We'll see how long it lasts. I was told I had no vacuum leaks, and everything seemed to be in good working order. Maf reading was a little low according to them and they said it appeared to be running a little rich.
Either way, it runs good for now. As long as it gets me through the next couple of busy weeks, I will be happy. Also, I get my K04-022 turbo this weekend. Hopefully that will be going in soon...
When this happened to me with my VR6, EPC light, ****ty idle, .... I just needed to do a Throttle body alignment and it was fine
I think to do a TBA without your VAG, turn your car off and turn the key to the on position for like, a minute, then try it again...also try cleaning out the inside of your TB if its dirty... i sprayed mine with some canned air
Here are the codes the autozone puller came up with:
P2123 TPS/Pedal Position Sensor/ Switch D circuit high input
P2128 " " " " " E Circuit " "
P0638- Throttle Actuater Performance/Range (bank 1)
P0121 TPS Pedal Position A- CKT Range/Perf
P0223 TPS/Pedal Position sensor B Circuit High input
P0036 H02S Bank 1 Sensor 2 Heater Circuit
P0103 MAF or VAF circuit high input
P0141 O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 1 sens 2)
P0106 MAP/BARO CKT Range/Perf
P2101 TAC Motor CKT Range/Perf
P0130 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
What do you guys think?
Sounds like you need to clean and adjust the TB.
From this thread:
Quote, originally posted by tamorgen »
It could be a dirty throttle body. You can take it off, clean it up (even the electronics, see http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2491784)
To do a TBA, you'll need a VAG-COM. Directions on how to do so are on Ross-Tech's web site.
Actually that would explain a lot, and the O2 problems could be because you are running lean.
Yeah, have someone with a vag-com do a TB adaptation. It's the only way. Before doing that, it wouldn't hurt to take off the throttle body like I did in the past and give it a good cleaning. I used B-12 Chemtool, from any autostore, and it works great. Spray that inside, and wipe out whatevers left(dries fast).
That's the cleaner that was suggested to me from one of the common performance shops on the forums, sorry I can't remember who.
Not good at reading Trouble codes, but I would find out if your 02's need replacing and if they do, do it. Although it might not FIX the idle, it would be benificial to the efficiency of the car when idle problem is fixed.
Modified by Boosted96GSX at 6:40 AM 2-7-2008
Ok thanks for the advice guys. If I have time tomorrow I'll take the TB off and clean it and the TPS. There is a Mitshubishi dealership in town that works on Volkswagens so I'll see if they can do a throttle body adaptation.
Is this not the same thing that APR's throttle body alignment does?
I guess it should be the same. When the car is on the vag-com, and you do the throttle body adaptation, the person resetting it will know if it worked. If it doesn re-set, then you have a problem. I don't think having the APR software should not allow you to do the adaptation, so if it doesn't adapt, maybe you do need a new TB.
You probably are going to need a t body, they run about $600 plus install. The electrical portion fails and has no reference point for idle or acceleration. Cleaning it wont do anything. You may be lucky and just need it re adapted, like if the battery went dead. If the car idles and you hear weird clicking sounds at the t body, its junk
I took the TB off today and cleaned it with B-12 and the contacts with contact cleaner. Put it back in and turned the key to on. I could hear the TB adjusting and when it stopped I started the car...Same thing. Shut it off and did a TBA with my APR..still nothing. Is it safe to say my TB is junked?
One of these 3:
a. Dead pedal sensor
b. Dead throttle body
c. Dead ECU
I replaced a and b first and it ended up being a fried ECU. I had hit a speed bump with my rear O2 sensor and shorted it out to the ECU. ECU had visible burn-in mark.
Cost me about $900 to diagnose, replace, program ECU and included pedal sensor. Throttle body was extra and cost a bit too.
I gave in a took it to the dealership. They said the TB flat out won't respond, also the rear o2 sensor has been ripped off. And on top of that one of my coilovers was so busted it fell off when they lifted my car. So I need to get that taken care of too now.
I guess I'll update real quick to finish this thread off. My ECU got screwed up from the o2 sensor getting ripped off. It was sending too many volts to the TB which was causing it to overload and fry. Thats why the TB I got from SlowGolf1 didnt work. So now I'm getting a new ECU and I'm looking at about 1200 bucks
Damn, man that sucks. I guess your problems were much bigger than mine.
I ordered ECS's stage 1 coilpacks,(sent wrong ones so waiting for the right ones to be sent) and the coilpack wiring harness.
I re-wired it into the car, and let me tell you, that was a big PITA!!! Took hours to complete because I wanted it to look original and it does by the way. Car runs great so far, no misfires, no stalling.
So is your car running again, or in the process of being fixed?
had the same problem withmy car..if i was sitting at a stop for a while my car would die but strart right up again..the other night my car died and lights and **** worked but tried to start it and nothing. got the cam sensor replaced and its fine now i think it was only like $140 for the sensor but no problems since i got it fixed.
Update, car started with its **** again. Stalling a little and misfiring a lot. I continue to just restat it til it works again.
Quote, originally posted by Dub_Love_Chick » had the same problem withmy car..if i was sitting at a stop for a while my car would die but strart right up again..the other night my car died and lights and **** worked but tried to start it and nothing. got the cam sensor replaced and its fine now i think it was only like $140 for the sensor but no problems since i got it fixed.
How did you know to change that sensor? I might have to try that...
I really should not rule anything out, and I'm not, but I don't think its that. I will be buying a big turbo kit probably pretty soon, and bigger injectors will be going in, so maybe if thats the problem, it will be resolved then. Thanks for advise
I try to regularly put in a bottle of that Lucas Injector cleaner.
Modified by Boosted96GSX at 8:44 AM 3-8-2008
Driving today and when I go into boost, the cars EPC light pops up and the most I can get is 10in hg in vacuum. The car idles fine and drives smooth, just slow as hell. WHen I turn it off and then restart it, it is back to normal. Other lights that are on my dash include the traction control light, and the ABS light.