What you'll need for sure:
18mm socket, deep and shallow
16mm socket, deep and shallow
13mm socket, deep and shallow
10mm 6pt socket, shallow
10mm 12pt socket, or T47 star socket
16mm box wrench
8mm hex key
One long extension
One or two short extensions
One swivel bit
One big pair of pliers
Small star bit, not exactly sure what size; same as the one you use to remove the underside plastic for changing the oil filter.
A sledge hammer
When I got up underneath mine, I found that the passenger inner CV boot had become loose and was spraying goo everywhere, so I'll detail briefly how this $35 part was replaced.
First, pull the battery tray and the airbox.
The airbox is secured by two 10mm bolts, one of which attaches it to the battery case, so pull the airbox out first. Before you do, detach the MAF harness and use a pair of pliers to disconnect the large plastic hose leaving the airbox. Also, there is a smaller accordion hose underneath the larger one, press on both sides in the area of the tabs and force it off; it's a pain. Unbolt the airbox and set it aside, it'll take some tugging to get it out; it'll get stuck on the intake on the driver's side, but it's secured by a rubber mount, so it'll wiggle enough to get it out ..
Pull the battery case/tray out. First, get the front sections off; the back section stays where it is for now, and you'll find the front and sides un-clip from the sides of it, then unbolt with 2 10mm bolts on the front side. Get the battery out. 2 more 10mm bolts you need to loosen to get the leads off. Detach the auxillary wire (the smaller one from the bigger one) on the positive lead. Use a 13mm socket to take off the retaining bracket for the battery at the front. Lift battery out.
There are 4 bolts which secure the battery tray. Before you pull them, the back of the battery case unbolts with 2 more 10mm bolts, then unsnaps and will lift free of the bottom and just kind of hang out there for the rest of the procedure. Unbolt the bottom tray and get it out of the way.
You now have a pretty clear view of the top of the tranny.
Travelling toward the front of the car, see two shafts with springs and rubber boots. One of these controls the rotation of the shifter arm (for lack of the proper term), a large silver piece which sticks up high and has a large counter-weight at the top. The other controls how this arm moves up and down. Move this arm around some, see that it pivots. Move it up and down some, and see the white clip that would serve this function.
Follow the arm that holds this white clip, you'll see that a shaft extends off of it and into a hold in the tranny case, and that the arm pivots up and down on this shaft. At the end of the shaft (where it exits the tranny case hole) see a small silver button which serves the same purpose as a C clip (or E clip, depending on your area of the country) would. Spin it until you see the tab in the center and just pop the little bugger off. Slide it out.
Now, take a 10mm socket on a long extension and un-bolt the large shifter arm from the pivot point. Once that bolt is out, it'll take some tugging to break it loose of the spline that it's mounted to (note that this spline is notched and will only fit on one way, so no need to mark it).
Now that you've got a little room because these things are mobile, un-clip the wire harness that clips into the bottom of the spline that the shifter arm came off of. Also, look toward the rear of the tranny and see a shiny silver heat shielding bag. Un-snap two snaps to open this bag and slide it down the wire it's shielding and then un-clip that sensor harness as well. Look at the starter and find that there is a square plug with a wire or two running off it, un-clip that too.
Follow your ground strap (which you pulled off the battery) to where it bolts to a combination bolt where the tranny meets the engine. They use 18mm bolts with 13mm smaller bolts which secure things like ground straps and brackets to it. You can take that 13mm bolt out without affecting the larger 18mm bolt. Do so, so that your ground strap is free.
Looking at the top of the two bolts which secure the starter to the tranny, do the same for the 18mm combination bolt there which holds on a bracket. This bracket holds together a large bundle of wires. Once you have the bracket un-bolted from the tranny, pull it apart and release the wires. Get the bracket out of the way.
Now, return to those two rods with springs and rubber boots that controlled the shift arm. Find that a little ways toward the rear of the tranny they're secured to the tranny by a black bracket. This bracket is removed with 3 13mm bolts.
Use 13mm socket to remove 2 bolts for the clutch slave cylinder; it just pops out. Move it out of the way.
Loosen the wheels and jack the car up as high as you can get it.
Remove the wheels.
Remove the black plastic wheel lining. Find that a very large amount of debris, leaves, dirt, bugs, acorns, etc has accumulated right about where water spray from the tires/road would end up. Find that your car will begin rusting from that point soon if you don't remove said debris. Be amazed that in 70 some odd years of making cars that VW still hasn't found a way to fix this problem. You'll need that small star bit.
On the driver's side, remove the inner lining which keeps you from seeing the side of the transmission if you're looking toward the engine bay from outside the car through the wheel well. Do this by yanking it down.
Now, acquire a lovely assistant.
Instruct said lovely assistant to stand on the brakes.
While the lovely assistant keeps your CV axles from spinning, use your 8mm hex bit and a trusty extension to loosen two bolts at a time while you sit sort of under the wheel well and work through the opening that removing the plastic has afforded you.
Now, here's a helpful tidbit. To get the tranny out easily, the CV on the driver's side needs to start below the tranny, not above it. The CV axle ends telescope, so you can compress it or stretch it. Try to work the driver's side one under the tranny before you try to drop it; before you can do this, as I recall, you have to remove the support bracket that holds up the driver's side of the tranny, but I'm telling you now so you can keep it in mind as you're tugging, etc at the damn things ..
Now, remove the easy ****te. Get the support that runs between the tranny and perpendicular to the suspension piece. 10mm bolts and 16mm bolts, as I recall.
Before you go much further, support the engine. I used a piston jack mounted on top of a jack stand with the part that moves up and down removed so that the jack just sits on top of the stand. I supported the engine by placing the jack under the oil pan. Admittedly not the best idea, but for the amount of weight it had to support, it didn't dent the oil pan at all, so I say what the hell. Get the jack close to where the tranny and the engine meet. Just give it some tension for now, don't try and jack the whole car up with it.
Detach the metal piping that is secured to the bottom rear of the tranny. Pull this upward and secure it as high and out of the way as possible.
If you've got the spare jack, support the tranny end of the world now, as far to the driver's side as you can. Again, don't lift the car, just give it some tension.
Back up from the top, find the two 18mm bolts which attach the frame of the car to an intermediate metal piece, which itself attaches to the tranny. There are 3 pieces involved here, frame, intermediate piece and tranny and they all 3 hook together to hold up the driver's side of the engine/tranny combo. Pull those 18mm bolts out.
Now, looking at the tranny through the wheel well, see that just above your field of view there are 3 16mm bolts which secure this intermediate metal piece to the tranny. See that you cannot access the top two of these 16mm bolts unless the whole contraption dropped a couple inches. Note also that you can't slide the tranny out with this intermediate metal piece attached. So, using your jacks, lower the combo until you can pull those three bolts out, and then do so.
Pull the starter. 18mm bolts, use a deep socket.
Pull the two 18mm combo bolts that secure the top of the tranny to the top of the engine. Remember, you're still supporting the whole combo with 2 jacks. Lying with your head under where the passenger CV would attach to the engine and your feet out the driver's wheel well, look/feel upward and find that there are two bolts on the side that you'll need to pull, both 18mm (I think, these may be 16mm). The bottom one, do from there, the top one you'll want to run an extension out the passenger wheel well.
Remove the remaining 16mm and 18mm bolts on the front and bottom of the tranny. Don't forget the 18mm bolt that runs from the engine into the tranny at the front. . Find that the tranny still seems very securely attached to the engine. Apply sledge hammer. One or two short raps should serve to separate the two.
At this point, you'd better be underneath the whole thing. Drop the jack that's supporting the tranny. Wiggle the tranny around some, you'll see that it's good and loose. Now, notice that the point where the passenger CV bolted to the tranny, that round piece whose proper name I can't remember, is getting caught on the flywheel. Wiggle the everlovingcrap out of the tranny to get it around it, or, pull the tranny off the engine until the bellhousing clears the flywheel. With the bellhousing clear of the flywheel, and it'll just barely clear, push the tranny toward the rear of the car and wiggle some, you'll see that you'll just barely clear that round piece around the flywheel on the other side.
Note that if you've dropped the engine/tranny combo down too far then the transmission won't clear the support arm for the suspension. If it doesn't, then just jack the engine up a bit and it'll make it easier to clear. The big hurdle is getting around the flywheel. The rest involves wiggling and jiggling. Again, much easier if you've gotten the CV on the driver's side under the tranny, but not impossible if you haven't .. Jack the engine up and down some to give yourself more room if you need it, and especially if you have the CV on top, it'll be a fight.
Once you've got it out, use your T47 or 10mm 12 pt sockets to remove the pressure plate from flywheel. Rough the flywheel up with sandpaper if you're keeping it, was told by stealership not to have it turned. Don't bother with an aligning tool, use a socket instead!
Lube the shaft that the throwout bearing rides on with moly grease, same with input shaft; both very lightly only. Same for pivot point of clutch fork.
At this point I replaced the CV boot. They're cake. Cut off the old boot. At the tranny end of the axle, pry back the 3 clips that hold the backing to the big round piece of the axle. Slide the big round sleeve toward the wheel to get it out of the way. A C (or E) clip holds the bearings to the shaft. Pop that off, then lightly hammer the bearing apparatus off the shaft. Pull off the sleeve. Replace boot. Crimp clamp of boot to sleeve. Fill boot with 2 of the 3 packs of goo. Pack bearings with the other. Tap the bearing apparatus back on using a socket and a hammer. Re-attach the C clamp. Tap on the new backing and bend the tabs with your big pair of pliers.
Apply above instructions in reverse to reinstall tranny.
Note, that when you re-insert the clutch slave cylinder into the tranny housing, compress the piston as you do so. If you don't the piston doesn't stick straight out and will bend itself down as you're putting it in. It needs to meet up with the fork and be compressed in it's normal state, so make sure it hooks right or else you'll only get limited clutch pedal action, if any at all.
Now, I'm sure I've forgotten something, but the above procedure should be damn near perfect.
Started the project Friday afternoon, finished Monday afternoon. Lots of time spend out buying proper tools at 24 hour WalMart. Lots of time spent trying to force the tranny around the flywheel with the CV on top instead of underneath. Lots of time and sweat with me under the car bench pressing the tranny and unable to get it out. Brilliant idea to use my engine hoist to do my work for me was the biggest help. The tranny isn't that heavy, and if I'd known how to get the CV mount part of it around the flywheel, I wouldn't have needed the hoist at all. Again, separate it enough from the engine that the bellhousing can clear the flywheel and move it toward the back of the car, the round CV mount will clear. Again, jack the engine up some if the tranny doesn't clear the suspension arm at the back.
Oh, and make sure to attach the intermediate piece that joins the tranny to the frame on the driver's side before you get it too well attached to the engine as you're reinstalling, or else you'll never be able to get to the bolts, or to even fit the piece in where it needs to go.
When you plug the battery back in, wierd things will happen.
My car's traction control wouldn't shut off. One-touch windows worked, but only down, not up. Drove the car 5 minutes, off then back on again and everything is working fine.
Used a ClutchWerks clutch kit.
$680 for a vr6 kit
J was great, lots of help, superb service, knows his stuff. So far clutch feels great. Will report further after a bit more driving. Catches very low, very smooth engagement, lots of feedback. The action is much smoother than it was in the pedal. Downshifting is much smoother and without the jerking action from the stock clutch. J's pressure plate is a Sachs, the clutch disc I'm not so familiar with.
My stock clutch lasted 76k miles and I'm told I was lucky. The disc itself was worn to metal on the outside edges and the pressure plate was black and blue from heat, as was the flywheel. Not having money to replace the flywheel, I sanded it up som and will replace it after the next clutch. I'm told by J that this ClutchWerks clutch is expected to last around 50k miles; it has a 6k mile warranty. Payment was by PayPal ..
Cheers, and happy hunting.
IM or Email if you have any questions ..