Let me start this write up off with a question -
"Is it really worth getting a Silicone Turbo Inlet Pipe for the ko4-20?"
I didn't think so when I did my ko4-20 swap, but as you'll be able to see while you read in the thread, it's a MUST have for this turbo.
Personally, I waited months before thinking about getting a silicone turbo inlet. I couldn't justify spending $170+ on a piece of silicone, but after problems i encountered and a bit of research, i found it's worth every penny.
I was having problems since i put the Audi 225 TIP on the car in the beginning. I would get very strange boost drops at redline, 20-12 psi, 20-10 psi, etc. and when the car would enter boost, it seemed kind of rough, as if flow wasn't quite right. This is when i got in contact with Angel and Mike at Forge Motorsports. I discussed with them the problems i was having with my boost and what might be going on, i was suspicious of the TT225 TIP collapsing. From what they told me and the tests that they've done, it's a fact, the TT pipe is the weak point in the system and is notorious for failing.
At :12-17 of this video you'll be able to see how the TT225 fails under boost http://www.forgemotorsport.com/media/intake.mpg
With that being said, i wondered to myself if i could be getting more than just 19-20psi out of my turbo and if when i ran my car on the race file, what problems would i encounter then if i kept the stock inlet? I decided enough was enough and ordered one from Mike and Angel. I'd like to also add that when purchasing the pipe, have them send you clamps for it as well, they're great quality clamps and really should be the only clamps used on the silicone.
All items were packed very well, and shipping was quick. Mike and Angel at Forge are great guys to deal with; my full review Forge and their Turbo inlet will follow the Install.
You'll need to get these things in order to make everything work properly. (i got all mine from a local AutoZone)
2 Pre-bent hoses and a few others:
- Hose #4202 (a 90 degree bend into a long straight)
- Hose #3008 (a big loop almost like a U)
- (1) E-Z coil 3/4" Part number: GY34UBP
With these next 1, it's for the PCV valve relocation; i can’t seem to remember which size it is though, 5/8 or 3/4. I'm pretty sure it's 5/8 but just to be sure, when you go into AutoZone, bring the PCV valve with you if you can to see if it'll fit. Very sorry about that (if someone finds out which it is, please let me know!)
- (1) 3/4 or 5/8 heater core connector
- About an additional 4 medium size clamps
and if you don’t have this as well from your ko4 install, you'll need a Silicone reducer 45 degree angle, 2 1/4" - 2"
- 2 Screw drivers, medium and long
- A small socket set with a small to large extension
- If you have one-time use clamps, then something to cut those
- Lubricating oil
What i started with:
For reference, the items i have around or connected to the inlet are:
- N75 J valve
- 710n DV
- Stock PCV valve
- Godspeed FMIC (I’m sure many of you know my DIY on that as well)
A more close up view
First things first! disconnect the: MAF, diverter valve hose going to the intercooler, N75 valve lines, and top intercooler pipe(if you're FMIC'd), just be sure to plug the top of the turbo where you took the intercooler pipe out to not get anything into the turbo, that wouldn't be good!
I usually like to leave in all valves in, just before i any TIP out, just so nothing gets into the pipe, but you may do it different and that's fine.
Next up, Take out the diverter valve, n75 valve(i left mine plugged in and pushed it to the side in the engine bay), and PCV valve.
Now start to take out the turbo inlet pipe. Unscrew/Unratchet the bottom clamp connecting the TIP to the turbo. Once disconnected, start to pull, it should start to slide out fairly easily. MAKE SURE to not have the inlet hitting anything too bad when taking it out, you don't want to break/snap something in the process. I don’t have any pics while i was taking it out, just when it was out:
A couple things i was REAL happy about ( ) was when i looked at my TT turbo inlet after it was out of the car. This is what i saw:
Cracked and well worn, this inlet is COOKED. The PCV valve ripped right out of it when i barely pulled on it, so to say the least, my inlet was collapsing im sure (this inlet, to my knowledge, only had about 40k on it)
With that junk 225 inlet out, you want to remove this piece(circled in yellow) from it as you'll need to put this on the Forge Inlet.
Here it is transferred onto the Forge inlet, clamp it well!
Now to tackle the PCV valve relocation. Take the heater hose connector you got from your local auto supply store and connect it to the TIP. (ignore the heater core hose i have on it, this was a prototype of it, but was not the final. Only thing that should be in the inlet is the connector) It should look like this (sorry for the blurry pic, there’s more in the finished product below)
Things scattered in my driveway
Alright, now with those connected, let's get the Forge Inlet in there!
First start by taking some of the lubricant, and rubbing it on the inner side of the of the inlet where the turbo meets the pipe (the smaller hole opposite of the big hole). Then start by gradually sliding the inlet in between everything(make SURE to go OVER the heater core hoses, etc. NOT under.). Once lined up with the turbo, start to push on it. It takes a little bit of muscle to get it fully onto the inlet, and you should know when you're all the way on.
Remember, the ko4 has a lip to where the inlet can’t go any further, see here:
So this is what you should see when it's fully on:
Make sure to tighten the clamp that's on the turbo TIGHT! Use a socket rather than a screwdriver for that.
Starting to come together!
Now we're starting to piece everything back together, first put back on the MAF and filter (i choose to put a MBC on originally, but in the end put the N75 J valve back on)
Now to put the PCV back in
First take the prebent hose #4202, that should look like this:
and put it onto the turbo inlet is where the already existing heater hose connecter is, on the 90 degree bend side. Once this is in and clamped, put the PCV valve back in and connect it to the stock hose. There shouldn't be any crimps in the line. Hopefully this picture will help out with the idea
Next up is putting the top intercooler pipe back in, so that you can start to make test fitments for when the DV goes back. Get that 45 degree coupler on there, it should look like this
and just so you know the angle the pipe should be at (also gives you a preview of how the DV is going to work) :
Connect the couplers and make sure the clamps are TIGHT, learn from my mistake and awesome boost leak on the highway because a clamp wasn't completely tight
Putting the DV back in isn't bad either. First grab the pre-bent hose #3008, which is shaped like a U. Start by test fitting the connection between the DV and the nipple from the intercooler pipe, it should go on like this:
That bend will crimp just a tiny bit at the bottom side once everything's in, SO before putting it in, take your E-Z coil and put it on the hose, molding it so that it won’t crimp.
When installing, you want to make sure that the bend goes above the N75 nipple that's sticking out of the TIP. This next picture should describe what i mean
After that, take a step back, YOU'RE DONE!
The finished product:
Total install time- As you can see from the pictures, it went from daylight, to night, I took my time with this. I had to do that though so i could engineer how to get the PCV and DV relocation to work, get the parts, talk it over with pops, make adjustments, get final prototype, eat dinner, etc. lol. It took me about 6 hours with all the planning/running to the store/eating/install. For you guys out there with this all mapped out, I’d say just about 2 hours tops.
My overall Satisfaction- Well this is easy. I really didn't think that it would make that much of a difference, like I’m sure much of you out there do as well. BOY i was wrong. As soon as i got to a safe location, where i could really get on the gas ... 24 psi spike, 23-22psi hold(i was only at 19-20 before!), smooth delivery, LOUD spool(even louder from before! i know!), and a huge kick in the pants, not to mention no collapsing rubber . I couldn't believe how much of a difference this pipe made, for that much kick for that price, i consider it a STEAL. I really wish i did this sooner and didn't wait all this time, and would recommend it to ANYONE doing a ko4-20 swap, this part is a MUST HAVE.
My Overall Satisfaction with Forge's product- As you can tell, this part, performance wise is unreal. With that performance though, it has to be built to handle it, which it does 10 fold. With 4 ply silicone and great rigidity, this piece is ready to handle 24 psi all day and night, no collapsing or misdesign here like the stock piece. Honestly, there is nothing i can say that i wish was better on this piece, and i would say it too if i saw something that i didn't like, the whole purpose of this thread is to help all of you, not to deceive. It's from an Audi application, and i made it easy to fit on a MKIV. Would it be nice to have a direct fit ko4-20 swap MKIV VW edition? That would be great, but not necessary after i installed mine. Who knows though, maybe with enough interest for ko4-20 swapped MKIV's maybe they will make one! Really to sum up everything is simply this: Forge builds quality, nothing less, bottom line.
My Overall experience with Forge Representatives- I spent quite a bit of time with both Angel and Mike discussing the product, how i could get it to fit, etc. And all i can say is that they're excellent people to deal with. Very personal, very into cars (which sometimes you don't find in the automotive industry and is very important to me, i know call me crazy ), believe strongly in what they're selling, and genuine VW/Audi enthusiasts. Would i buy from them again? In an instant. Would i trust them and their product? Completely. With both Angel and Mike, they're not trying to hide anything; they're just trying to help the VW/Audi community with the great products that they offer. And to the both of them i give a and 2 's each I would recommend buying from them to anyone
Forge's website - directly to the 225TT TIP here: http://www.forgemotorsport.com...25IND
At this time i'd like to tell ALL of you, if you have ANY questions about the install, performance, satisfaction with the part, etc. Please feel free to IM me! I'm more than happy to help you out with any Q's you may have.
BIG BIG BIG BIG Thanks goes out to:
-Angel@forgemotorsports.com - his SN on here
-Mike@forgemotorsports.com - " "
-To my Dad, who helped me out big time with the install
and that's it! I hope you all enjoyed this read and benefited from this thread, that's all what my intention was.
All i'm here to do is help the VW community that i love so much
Modified by J-tec at 11:11 PM 3-12-2008
Modified by J-tec at 11:18 PM 3-12-2008