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    Thread: $20 wheel bearing puller, BOOYA!

    1. Member B4S's Avatar
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      03-17-2008 08:38 PM #1
      Decided to make a tool tonight, to get the front wheel bearings out. Cost me $20 in metal, and a few minutes of welding. Works great too! .


      - 2 stacks of washers (4 each, 2.5" O.D. at the biggest, 5/8" ID at the smallest)
      - 5/8" threaded rod
      - 5/8" coupler nut
      - a length of flat bar
      - some 3" OD Exhaust pipe
      - bit 'o welding.

      =

      Modified by B4S at 8:43 PM 3-17-2008


      Modified by B4S at 8:44 PM 3-17-2008


      Modified by B4S at 6:55 AM 10-3-2008

      Negative scene points

    2. Senior Member vdubspeed's Avatar
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      03-17-2008 08:43 PM #2
      that's why the mk1 forum owns all....ingenuity.

      I'm lazy and just bought a 20 ton shop press

      Built > Bought
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    3. Member B4S's Avatar
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      03-17-2008 08:47 PM #3
      I wanted to buy a press...but the 'manager' wasn't down with the idea .

      So, desperation got the better of me .

      Negative scene points

    4. 03-17-2008 09:15 PM #4
      Does it press the new ones back it, too?

    5. Member B4S's Avatar
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      03-17-2008 09:23 PM #5
      Sure, I just flip the device over, so that it pulls the other way. I'll put in one of the C-clips so that it doesn't go too far in, and voila . It's a copy of a tool I saw on eBay, but 60$ cheaper .
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    6. Member veector's Avatar
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      03-17-2008 09:28 PM #6
      awesome, should be put in the DIY forum
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    7. Member white rabbit's Avatar
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      03-17-2008 09:31 PM #7
      if it removes the old bearings it should put the new ones in just fine. just remember that when pressing the new bearing into the hub, you press on the outer race only, and when pressing the hub back into the bearing, you obviously should press against the inner race only. doing it any different will probably damage the new bearings.

      the old bearing cases make good dies for pressing the new ones in. they will seem to get stuck in the spindle when doing this but come out fairly easily with a hammer.


    8. Member B4S's Avatar
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      03-17-2008 09:34 PM #8
      For now, this tool is only set up for the outer race. One step at a time .

      As for hammering out the old shell used as a 'push', that's why I use such a long piece of 3" pipe, I just keep turning until it comes out too .

      Negative scene points

    9. 03-17-2008 09:55 PM #9
      The Schley tool is over 200$ I think, and it can do the job with the spindle unremoved.

      Looks like you could do the job with the spindle on as well.


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      03-18-2008 02:13 AM #10
      Im going to make something like this some day.
      I was thinking finer threads would make it easier to turn.
      With the big benefit of being able to do it on the car.
      How long is the threaded piece?

    11. Member goosler's Avatar
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      03-18-2008 10:03 AM #11
      Quote, originally posted by fatmobile »
      Im going to make something like this some day.
      I was thinking finer threads would make it easier to turn.
      With the big benefit of being able to do it on the car.
      How long is the threaded piece?

      shoulda coulda woulda, but none of you did.......big thumbs up to the O.P. for some grassroots thinking/building of a great tool......


    12. 03-18-2008 11:00 AM #12
      Did this this weekend. I put the carrier on the furnace and the bearing in the freezer. No press or puller required. I have always heard of doing this and now it is the only way I will do it now. Have yet to put the hub back in.

    13. Member B4S's Avatar
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      03-18-2008 11:45 AM #13
      Quote, originally posted by fatmobile »
      Im going to make something like this some day.
      I was thinking finer threads would make it easier to turn.
      With the big benefit of being able to do it on the car.
      How long is the threaded piece?

      I don't have exact measurements, but I could get them. I just eyeballed it and cut a section of threaded rod off the length that I bought. I've got another 2' of rod left, since it's only sold in long peices. Honestly, unless you spent some good money and got the hardened stuff, a finer thread would strip out IMO. I had to use a bar on the end of my vice grips to get the proper leverage. Once it 'pops', it's easy though .

      I like this little tool, and I don't have to remove the hub from the car to do the job if I don't want to. Makes future bearing swaps much less of a headache job. I like the freezer tip though, I think I'll give that a shot with the replacement bearings.

      I'd just like to point out that I didn't invent this, I just copied it. I've gotta say though...it's super easy to build, and you could probably get away with spending less than I did if you were crafty.


      Modified by B4S at 11:47 AM 3-18-2008

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    14. 03-18-2008 12:24 PM #14
      Quote, originally posted by chickenfriend »
      The Schley tool is over 200$ I think, and it can do the job with the spindle unremoved.

      Looks like you could do the job with the spindle on as well.

      You can get the same thing as the Schley from Harbor Freight for 60$


    15. Member B4S's Avatar
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      03-18-2008 12:51 PM #15
      No harbor freights up here, and Princess Auto (canadian version of HF) didn't carry it. I still had a hard time justifying a $60 outlay for a few metal discs, cups, nuts and a bolt.
      Negative scene points

    16. 03-18-2008 12:55 PM #16
      Flintstone Engineering at it's best.

    17. 03-18-2008 01:06 PM #17
      I just used a large deep impact socket and a sledge. To put it in a freeze the bearing, and put the spindle in the bbq. Works amazing, can do a job in 5 mins.

    18. Member MK1 Rabbit GTI's Avatar
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      03-18-2008 01:36 PM #18
      he speaks the truth
      BBQ and freezer FTW!

    19. Member B4S's Avatar
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      03-18-2008 03:31 PM #19
      It's tough to put the whole car on the BBQ though .
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    20. 03-18-2008 03:35 PM #20
      HE SPEAKS THE TRUTH

    21. Member GTrabbIt's Avatar
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      10-07-2010 07:37 PM #21
      can you rehost these images please?
      Our mk6

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    22. Member SGLoki's Avatar
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      10-07-2010 09:01 PM #22
      Ditto this, the way I am imagining this I could turn one on the lathe at school....

      and I have a bearing starting to fail!!!

    23. Member B4S's Avatar
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      10-08-2010 08:22 PM #23
      I'm afraid those pics are long lost .
      Negative scene points

    24. 10-08-2010 09:08 PM #24
      This link shows the basic pieces you need. I have this kit, it works great but i end up using parts of the old bearings to press in the new ones because they fit beter than the arbors the kit includes.
      http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-fro...ers-66829.html

    25. Member GTrabbIt's Avatar
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      10-08-2010 09:24 PM #25
      but that's not $20

      lol, j/k

      I think I can figure it out
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    26. Member SGLoki's Avatar
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      10-09-2010 02:15 AM #26
      I guess I can make the arbors fairly easily on a lathe with no other tooling needed, I'll just have to get my dimensions when I tear down the car and knock out the fabrication in a day... learning new stuff is funz!

    27. Member RabbitJockey's Avatar
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      10-09-2010 09:14 AM #27
      i don't think will ever be changing wheel bearings that often, and i get employee discount at napa cause i used to work there and my mother still does, so i just took the whole strut off and had their machine shop press new ones in for me
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    28. Member B4S's Avatar
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      10-09-2010 03:28 PM #28
      It's really not a complex tool. It's some threaded rod, some washers, some large nuts, and a really big wrench, lol.
      Negative scene points

    29. Member rabbitnothopper's Avatar
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      03-13-2011 06:44 AM #29
      tried this today
      would say that the 3inch OD exhaust pipe is bad idea
      the torque pressure required to get the bearing to "pop" would flatten that flimsy metal of an exhaust pipe

      hell i even managed to bend two 2.5inch washers and a 3inch water pipe fitting

      even the sledge hammer hates me and both bearings are in the exact spot they were when I started too

      someone said to me to use a floor jack under a car and use the car as the weight
      ......


      3/4 inch threaded bolt would work also with larger nuts of course
      they sell 5/8inch and 3/4 inch fence hinges that are just long enough to Push a new bearing in using the old bearing
      and the hinges are just as strong as that expensive junk threaded rod

      the fence post hinge has a moulded tie end with a pressed solid steel hinge, works great for clamping into the vice
      too bad the table the vice is on cant handle being twisted in two... i never saw wood do 90 degrees like that without cracking


      i wouldnt use the 1/2 inch threaded rod even though they look strong im sure that one would snap before the washers bent



      anyhow.......soaking it in PB catalyst might actually be worth it
      the 4 sprays it got to remove the hub and circlips apparently wasnt enough to seep in


      and Thanks OP for idea, i had several myself just glad others have done this before ME
      I'll send some pics up next time I get a chance....

    30. Member rabbitnothopper's Avatar
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      03-21-2011 02:49 AM #30
      ya so all i can say about this idea:

      does not work.....

      but heres the pics anyways





      it was about $16 for all of it........

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