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    VWVortex


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    Thread: 24V Waterpump DIY

    1. 10-09-2010 06:49 PM #36
      Thanks for the write-up, you saved me some serious coin. I have almost zero experience working on cars but I was able to pull this one off and change my belt at the same time (granted it took me a little longer than the time listed ).

    2. Member Ld7w_VR's Avatar
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      10-10-2010 11:08 AM #37
      Quote Originally Posted by apstguy View Post
      I bought a Hepu BDF waterpump with metal impeller. Model# P525 "Comparable to: 022.121.011" However, I had a failure after 5000 miles with this model and the warranty unit sent to replace the old one was cast too big, forcing me to grind the three pointed edges so the pulley could turn without binding. Meyle now makes one so I suggest going with them.
      I replaced my water pump about 5k miles ago because it was leaking a bit. I went with a GEBA waterpump with metal impeller. Now I also installed my Gruven Parts waterpump pulley at the same time. Like you said I had to file/grind down the three pointed edges so that the pulley did not rub.
      The Elite 24v VR6 Club: Member #268 "Like 6 cylinder of 15 degree sex"

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    3. Member jefswat's Avatar
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      03-05-2011 03:52 PM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by apstguy View Post
      Reinstall the 2 16mm pendulum mount bolts, using the jack to help you align the
      holes (raise and lower the jack, and shove the engine with your hands, it is only mounted to the body in one flexible place as of now) Both pendulum mount bolts need to be torqued to 50 Nm (37 ft-lb). These are stretch bolts and VW says they need to be replaced every time they are removed, but I don't.


      17. Reinstall the 16mm bolts to the passenger side body mount. They need to be torqued to 40Nm (30 ft-lb) plus 90 degrees (or 1/4 of a turn). These are stretch bolts and VW says they need to be replaced every time they are removed, but I don't. Just make sure you tighten a little extra.

      This is a bad idea. The bolts them selves are tightened near failure to begin with. You don't want to add more load to them than recommended. You're playing with fire. Most bolts aren't even tightened to the point where they permanently stretch, so if you over tighten them its not a big deal.
      VR6 =Good
      Everything around the VR6 = bad

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      02-14-2012 09:55 PM #39
      How often is it suggested to have your water pump replaced. Or do you just have it done when it starts to go bad?

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      02-14-2012 10:19 PM #40
      Do it before it breaks. I never go more than 100k because if the impeller breaks, there are plastic bits in your system. Not sure what is recommended.
      -Holmes

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    6. Member
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      02-15-2012 03:29 PM #41
      Can you see the water and tell if its leaking or going bad without having to take anything apart or off? I ask because I am looking at buying a 2004 Gli vr6 with 74,xxx

    7. Junior Member
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      02-15-2012 04:13 PM #42
      If it's bad, the car will be overheating. That car has very low miles for an '04, you can always have a mechanic look over it for you if you have doubts.
      -Holmes

      People are always surprised that my car smells of crayons

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      02-15-2012 10:45 PM #43
      bentley manual says to lower the engine to access the pump instead...just sayin'

    9. Member limastock's Avatar
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      02-20-2012 05:25 PM #44
      Might be doing this if replacing the tstat doesnt cut it.

      Good write up.
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    10. Member 24vGTiVR6's Avatar
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      02-20-2012 06:30 PM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by 02JttaGLI View Post
      bentley manual says to lower the engine to access the pump instead...just sayin'
      yeah.... when I replaced mine I just unbolted the dog bone + engine mount, lowered the motor a tad via a 2 x 4 + jack under the oil pan, removed the belt and took the whole pulley out. Then, I used a bench vise to remove the old pump and install the new Meyle pump I bought.

      much easier.

    11. 03-12-2012 11:09 PM #46
      incredible write up!

    12. 03-12-2012 11:12 PM #47
      Quote Originally Posted by CAH8 View Post
      Can you see the water and tell if its leaking or going bad without having to take anything apart or off? I ask because I am looking at buying a 2004 Gli vr6 with 74,xxx
      any more thoughts on this? being able to evaluate the condition based on coolant clarity/colour

    13. 05-03-2012 01:06 PM #48
      Im going to attempt this pretty soon, because my water pump is leaking pretty badly. Already ordered the new water pump.

      Question: how "easy" does the water pump come out? Am I going to have to pry it out with elbow grease, or should it pull out fairly easy?

      @24vGTiVR6, how did you use a bench vise to get it out?

    14. Member jaso028's Avatar
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      05-03-2012 02:37 PM #49
      ^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

      it will come out easily... even the pulley will come off easily.. you might have to tap it a little to get it to come off the 1st time, but it does all come off easily..

      I found it easy to lower the motor down and remove the lower 2 bolts and then raise it up as much as you can to access the upper bolt on the water pump itself..
      all in all the 2nd time around I did my water pump in like 45 mins.. My 1st pump failed within like 3 months .. 1st time probably took me about an hour..

      I am kind of curios as to what he is using a bench vice for now @ this point..... lol
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    15. Member 24vGTiVR6's Avatar
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      05-03-2012 08:58 PM #50
      I used the vice to hold the pump / pulley to get them separated, after the whole thing was removed from the car. If you have the 3 bolt pulley holder tool its a non issue, just loosen while holding the tool in place. I didn't have that at the time, so I took the whole thing out and used a vice to swap the pumps.

      And my water pump (with the pulley) just slid right out, no effort at all really.

    16. 05-04-2012 09:18 AM #51
      Oh great! Thanks guys, because if it required any extra force, I was going to just take it to a shop.

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      05-05-2012 01:05 PM #52
      this was a great write up, i did mine a week ago.

      ive noticed the past few days my temp guage sits at 210 while driving, instead of 190 where it has always been before, is that because of the metal impellar or did i mess something up?

    18. Member Yak Meat's Avatar
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      07-17-2012 09:43 PM #53
      need this!
      Garage Sale
      Quote Originally Posted by emmettlodge View Post
      Nothing makes sense on this forum anymore. So I'm going to go masturbate.

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      08-13-2013 08:51 PM #54
      Just completed this and my thermostat/housing/crack pipe with very few issues! Solved all my cooling problems and running great! Only 1 pulley screw was a beast. Ended up dremeling a notch in it and using a flathead and hammer to break it free. Oh and one screw in thermostat housing snapped in the block below factory torque specs. I wasn't equipped to drill it so I just went with the two long bolts. No leaks, working great.

      Awesome write-up!

    20. 03-20-2014 05:31 PM #55
      Hi,
      I've been following this DIY and I've gotten the bolts from the passenger side mount off. I've been trying to lift the engine up as suggested. However, I just can't seem to raise the engine as much as in this DIY. I don't know if I'm too scared to break something or if something is binding.

      Is there no risk to damaging the driver side mount by pushing the engine up so much?

      I also tried to drop the engine so I can get access to the water pump but the engine doesn't tend to drop as much.

      What am I doing wrong here?

    21. 03-20-2014 05:32 PM #56
      Quote Originally Posted by dasmann View Post
      Hi,
      I've been following this DIY and I've gotten the bolts from the passenger side mount off. I've been trying to lift the engine up as suggested. However, I just can't seem to raise the engine as much as in this DIY. I don't know if I'm too scared to break something or if something is binding.

      Is there no risk to damaging the driver side mount by pushing the engine up so much?

      I also tried to drop the engine so I can get access to the water pump but the engine doesn't tend to drop as much.

      What am I doing wrong here?
      The details of my vehicle are as follows:

      2003 24V VR6 Jetta

    22. 03-20-2014 08:30 PM #57
      Unbolt the transmission dog bone mount and see if that gives you enough movement.

    23. 03-20-2014 11:30 PM #58
      Quote Originally Posted by mycarsux View Post
      Unbolt the transmission dog bone mount and see if that gives you enough movement.
      Dog bone was out. I ended up dropping the engine after taking the whole passenger side mount off. The pulley was a pain in the rear end to get to and I ended up stripping the head on one of them. So I am going to have to make a run to the hardware store to buy some of those as well as the bolts for the pump to the engine because I lost one in the jack that holds the engine up. Go figure.

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      03-25-2014 11:54 AM #59
      Quote Originally Posted by dasmann View Post
      Dog bone was out. I ended up dropping the engine after taking the whole passenger side mount off. The pulley was a pain in the rear end to get to and I ended up stripping the head on one of them. So I am going to have to make a run to the hardware store to buy some of those as well as the bolts for the pump to the engine because I lost one in the jack that holds the engine up. Go figure.
      just get all new hardware. the $6 or so is well worth the peace of mind. all of the triple square screws i had were in rough shape, and so were the torx, after i meat-fisted them out from awkward angles.

    25. Member Brake_Dust's Avatar
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      06-07-2014 10:59 AM #60
      thanks for putting this up!
      -Invisible-

    26. 06-08-2014 02:41 PM #61
      Quote Originally Posted by 35i 2000 View Post
      any more thoughts on this? being able to evaluate the condition based on coolant clarity/colour
      remove the belt and spin the water pump pulley by hand , if it feels like theres side to side play or roughness in the bearings or signs of leaking then replace, you can also gauge how well the pump is working by seeing how much coolant is being returned to the coolant bottle via the small diameter top hose , as the revs increase the flow will also increase as the pump is being spun faster,

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