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    Thread: 24V Waterpump DIY

    1. 10-09-2010 07:49 PM #36
      Thanks for the write-up, you saved me some serious coin. I have almost zero experience working on cars but I was able to pull this one off and change my belt at the same time (granted it took me a little longer than the time listed ).

    2. Member Ld7w_VR's Avatar
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      10-10-2010 12:08 PM #37
      Quote Originally Posted by apstguy View Post
      I bought a Hepu BDF waterpump with metal impeller. Model# P525 "Comparable to: 022.121.011" However, I had a failure after 5000 miles with this model and the warranty unit sent to replace the old one was cast too big, forcing me to grind the three pointed edges so the pulley could turn without binding. Meyle now makes one so I suggest going with them.
      I replaced my water pump about 5k miles ago because it was leaking a bit. I went with a GEBA waterpump with metal impeller. Now I also installed my Gruven Parts waterpump pulley at the same time. Like you said I had to file/grind down the three pointed edges so that the pulley did not rub.
      The Elite 24v VR6 Club: Member #268 "Like 6 cylinder of 15 degree sex"

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    3. Member jefswat's Avatar
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      03-05-2011 04:52 PM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by apstguy View Post
      Reinstall the 2 16mm pendulum mount bolts, using the jack to help you align the<br>holes (raise and lower the jack, and shove the engine with your hands, it is only mounted to the body in one flexible place as of now) Both pendulum mount bolts need to be torqued to 50 Nm (37 ft-lb). These are stretch bolts and VW says they need to be replaced every time they are removed, but I don't.<p>
      17. Reinstall the 16mm bolts to the passenger side body mount. They need to be torqued to 40Nm (30 ft-lb) plus 90 degrees (or 1/4 of a turn). These are stretch bolts and VW says they need to be replaced every time they are removed, but I don't. Just make sure you tighten a little extra.<p>
      This is a bad idea. The bolts them selves are tightened near failure to begin with. You don't want to add more load to them than recommended. You're playing with fire. Most bolts aren't even tightened to the point where they permanently stretch, so if you over tighten them its not a big deal.
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      02-14-2012 10:55 PM #39
      How often is it suggested to have your water pump replaced. Or do you just have it done when it starts to go bad?

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      02-14-2012 11:19 PM #40
      Do it before it breaks. I never go more than 100k because if the impeller breaks, there are plastic bits in your system. Not sure what is recommended.
      -Holmes

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      02-15-2012 04:29 PM #41
      Can you see the water and tell if its leaking or going bad without having to take anything apart or off? I ask because I am looking at buying a 2004 Gli vr6 with 74,xxx

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      02-15-2012 05:13 PM #42
      If it's bad, the car will be overheating. That car has very low miles for an '04, you can always have a mechanic look over it for you if you have doubts.
      -Holmes

      People are always surprised that my car smells of crayons

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      02-15-2012 11:45 PM #43
      bentley manual says to lower the engine to access the pump instead...just sayin'

    9. Member limastock's Avatar
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      02-20-2012 06:25 PM #44
      Might be doing this if replacing the tstat doesnt cut it.

      Good write up.
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    10. Member 24vGTiVR6's Avatar
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      02-20-2012 07:30 PM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by 02JttaGLI View Post
      bentley manual says to lower the engine to access the pump instead...just sayin'
      yeah.... when I replaced mine I just unbolted the dog bone + engine mount, lowered the motor a tad via a 2 x 4 + jack under the oil pan, removed the belt and took the whole pulley out. Then, I used a bench vise to remove the old pump and install the new Meyle pump I bought.

      much easier.

    11. 03-13-2012 12:09 AM #46
      incredible write up!

    12. 03-13-2012 12:12 AM #47
      Quote Originally Posted by CAH8 View Post
      Can you see the water and tell if its leaking or going bad without having to take anything apart or off? I ask because I am looking at buying a 2004 Gli vr6 with 74,xxx
      any more thoughts on this? being able to evaluate the condition based on coolant clarity/colour

    13. 05-03-2012 02:06 PM #48
      Im going to attempt this pretty soon, because my water pump is leaking pretty badly. Already ordered the new water pump.

      Question: how "easy" does the water pump come out? Am I going to have to pry it out with elbow grease, or should it pull out fairly easy?

      @24vGTiVR6, how did you use a bench vise to get it out?

    14. Member jaso028's Avatar
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      05-03-2012 03:37 PM #49
      ^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

      it will come out easily... even the pulley will come off easily.. you might have to tap it a little to get it to come off the 1st time, but it does all come off easily..

      I found it easy to lower the motor down and remove the lower 2 bolts and then raise it up as much as you can to access the upper bolt on the water pump itself..
      all in all the 2nd time around I did my water pump in like 45 mins.. My 1st pump failed within like 3 months .. 1st time probably took me about an hour..

      I am kind of curios as to what he is using a bench vice for now @ this point..... lol
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      05-03-2012 09:58 PM #50
      I used the vice to hold the pump / pulley to get them separated, after the whole thing was removed from the car. If you have the 3 bolt pulley holder tool its a non issue, just loosen while holding the tool in place. I didn't have that at the time, so I took the whole thing out and used a vice to swap the pumps.

      And my water pump (with the pulley) just slid right out, no effort at all really.

    16. 05-04-2012 10:18 AM #51
      Oh great! Thanks guys, because if it required any extra force, I was going to just take it to a shop.

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      05-05-2012 02:05 PM #52
      this was a great write up, i did mine a week ago.

      ive noticed the past few days my temp guage sits at 210 while driving, instead of 190 where it has always been before, is that because of the metal impellar or did i mess something up?

    18. Member Yak Meat's Avatar
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      07-17-2012 10:43 PM #53
      need this!
      Garage Sale
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      08-13-2013 09:51 PM #54
      Just completed this and my thermostat/housing/crack pipe with very few issues! Solved all my cooling problems and running great! Only 1 pulley screw was a beast. Ended up dremeling a notch in it and using a flathead and hammer to break it free. Oh and one screw in thermostat housing snapped in the block below factory torque specs. I wasn't equipped to drill it so I just went with the two long bolts. No leaks, working great.

      Awesome write-up!

    20. 03-20-2014 06:31 PM #55
      Hi,
      I've been following this DIY and I've gotten the bolts from the passenger side mount off. I've been trying to lift the engine up as suggested. However, I just can't seem to raise the engine as much as in this DIY. I don't know if I'm too scared to break something or if something is binding.

      Is there no risk to damaging the driver side mount by pushing the engine up so much?

      I also tried to drop the engine so I can get access to the water pump but the engine doesn't tend to drop as much.

      What am I doing wrong here?

    21. 03-20-2014 06:32 PM #56
      Quote Originally Posted by dasmann View Post
      Hi,
      I've been following this DIY and I've gotten the bolts from the passenger side mount off. I've been trying to lift the engine up as suggested. However, I just can't seem to raise the engine as much as in this DIY. I don't know if I'm too scared to break something or if something is binding.

      Is there no risk to damaging the driver side mount by pushing the engine up so much?

      I also tried to drop the engine so I can get access to the water pump but the engine doesn't tend to drop as much.

      What am I doing wrong here?
      The details of my vehicle are as follows:

      2003 24V VR6 Jetta

    22. 03-20-2014 09:30 PM #57
      Unbolt the transmission dog bone mount and see if that gives you enough movement.

    23. 03-21-2014 12:30 AM #58
      Quote Originally Posted by mycarsux View Post
      Unbolt the transmission dog bone mount and see if that gives you enough movement.
      Dog bone was out. I ended up dropping the engine after taking the whole passenger side mount off. The pulley was a pain in the rear end to get to and I ended up stripping the head on one of them. So I am going to have to make a run to the hardware store to buy some of those as well as the bolts for the pump to the engine because I lost one in the jack that holds the engine up. Go figure.

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      03-25-2014 12:54 PM #59
      Quote Originally Posted by dasmann View Post
      Dog bone was out. I ended up dropping the engine after taking the whole passenger side mount off. The pulley was a pain in the rear end to get to and I ended up stripping the head on one of them. So I am going to have to make a run to the hardware store to buy some of those as well as the bolts for the pump to the engine because I lost one in the jack that holds the engine up. Go figure.
      just get all new hardware. the $6 or so is well worth the peace of mind. all of the triple square screws i had were in rough shape, and so were the torx, after i meat-fisted them out from awkward angles.

    25. Member Brake_Dust's Avatar
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      06-07-2014 11:59 AM #60
      thanks for putting this up!

    26. 06-08-2014 03:41 PM #61
      Quote Originally Posted by 35i 2000 View Post
      any more thoughts on this? being able to evaluate the condition based on coolant clarity/colour
      remove the belt and spin the water pump pulley by hand , if it feels like theres side to side play or roughness in the bearings or signs of leaking then replace, you can also gauge how well the pump is working by seeing how much coolant is being returned to the coolant bottle via the small diameter top hose , as the revs increase the flow will also increase as the pump is being spun faster,

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      11-16-2014 01:02 AM #62
      Good write-up. I kept easing the motor up small increments until I could get the pump out with the pulley off. I pried/pushed the motor as far forward as I could. I took the serp belt off and then stuck a long bolt into the wp pulley to break the bolts loose.
      I'm "jetblast", but no one believed me when I said I moved and no longer had an old e-mail!

    28. Member Volkser's Avatar
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      02-22-2015 03:29 PM #63
      I noticed that a lot of people recommend replacing the OEM waterpump with a metal impeller version. From my personal experience, I went through 3 aftermarket waterpumps (metal impeller) within 3 years. The last one I installed only lasted 4 months before it started leaking. The leaks on all of them came from an internal gasket that allowed coolant to seep out of the housing itself, near the shaft of the pump. Finally I just bought an OEM one 6 months ago (expensive yes!), with the plastic impeller, and it's been holding up fine. My original waterpump lasted over 200,000kms as well, and when i removed it the impeller was 100% intact and solid. It failed because the seal against the block wore out. Just my two cents

      Also, I'm not sure if anyone else experienced this, but I almost broke the screws that secure the pump to the block twice. I bought OEM replacement screws (x3) and when tightening them to the spec in the Bentley (I think its around 8NM), they just kept turning. I stopped obviously and removed them and they were stretched almost to the point of breaking in half. So either the Bentley is wrong or I got two bad batches of screws - the metal seemed to be super soft.

      Either way, careful when you reinstall the screws! Because of this, I've used the original screws 4 times now...for some reason they tighten up fine.

    29. Member passattimmy's Avatar
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      Yesterday 01:11 AM #64
      Quote Originally Posted by apstguy View Post
      This primary waterpump replacement was performed on a 2002.5 VW GTI 24V (BDF) VR6.
      Took me about 1.5 hours. Disclaimer: I’m not responsible for you harming yourself, use common sense! Don’t blame me for anything!

      Important note>>> I left out detailed descriptions of some parts (such as removing the dogbone and fender well) as I expect that if you are attempting this you are experienced enough to not need directions for those. If you do, they are all covered in the MkIV DIY section so go look there!

      Tools needed:
      T-25 Torx Screwdriver
      Phillips & flathead screwdriver
      Floor jack
      Piece of wood (2X4)
      10mm, 13mm, 16mm Metric sockets
      Socket Wrench
      Socket wrench extensions (long and small)
      M8X45 Bolt for de-tensioning your serpentine belt
      6mm Hex wrench
      6mm "Internal Wrench" or 12 point bits (a.k.a. triple square)
      Oil/catch pan
      PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil

      Parts needed:
      New waterpump
      New pulley to waterpump hex bolts (Tend to strip) Part#N10526802 (Qty=3)
      (Optional) New waterpump to block triple square bolts Part#N90544203 (Qty=3)
      (Optional) Passenger engine mount to body bolts & Pendulum mount bolts Part# N10516701 (Qty=2)
      G12 Coolant - 1 jug or 2 to be safe
      Distilled water 1 gallon or 2 to be safe

      Make sure your car is COLD and disconnect the battery before working on it!

      1. Remove your engine cover (just pull) and your underbody pan/sound dampener by removing the four T-25 torx screws.

      2. Drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose. Use a screwdriver to remove the clip that hold the hose on, then yank really hard! Coolant will spill, use your oil/catch pan so you don't make a mess.

      3. Remove the washer fluid bottle by removing the two 10mm plastic speednuts, the tank level sensor (by squeezing both sides and pulling) and removing the fluid line(s) (two for GTI, one for Jetta/GLI) and the electrical for the washer pump itself.










      4. Remove the two 16mm bolts from the pendulum/dogbone engine mount that attaches it to the engine.

      5. Remove the passenger side wheel well engine bay cover by removing the rear T-25 torx screw then sliding a flat head screw driver between the plastic and the body under the two speed nuts and pulling.

      6. Remove the wire tie-down from the power steering reservoir bolt then unbolt the power steering reservoir 10mm bolt with a deep socket. Remove the two philips screws to the coolant overflow tank.



      7. Remove the 13mm bolt nearest the passenger side that mounts the small support bracket that mounts to the top of the passenger side engine mount. Also remove the philips screw that supports the A/C line to the small support bracket.






      8. Unbolt the passenger side engine mount 16mm bolts(the two bolts that go from the mount to the body).



      9. Jack up the engine using a piece of wood (2X4 piece) on the oil pan getting as close to the passenger side as you can. Be VERY careful, the aluminum oil pans are fragile!!!
      Ready to jack



      Jacked up



      10. Soak the pulley bolts with PB Blaster and let sit for a bit, then remove the three hex head bolts that attach the pulley to the pump. (The belt might not give you enough grip, I suggest you take a second socket wrench and shove it in one of the holes in the pulley to get some leverage - My bolts all stripped out even after soaking in PB Blaster. I used a torx socket and hammered it into the stripped hex bolts to remove them.)

      11. Using the M8X45 bolt, un-tension the serpentine belt and remove it from the car. I removed my tensioner to make it easier (3 6mm hex bolts).

      10. Remove the three 6mm triple square bolts that hold the waterpump to the block.

      12. Pull on the pump to remove. Lots of coolant will spill. I couldn't find a good place for the catch pan with the floor jack in the way, so I let the coolant spill and got it off the floor with my shop vac.

      13. Prep the new pump by wiping coolant o-ring with coolant, then pushing the pump into place. The mounting holes only fit one way, so you can't put it in wrong. Tighten the 3 6mm triple square mounting bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft-lb).



      14. Push the pulley back on the new waterpump, making sure it faces the correct way (shallow side towards the passenger side). Thread the three 6mm hex bolts in and tighten to 20 Nm (15 ft-lb). You will need to shove a tool in a hole in the pulley to get leverage to tighten them.

      15. Make sure to wipe off all spilled coolant from pulleys and any surface that might touch the serpentine belt. Reinstall the serpentine belt and remove the M8X45 bolt to retension the belt. Make sure the belt is on every pulley correctly! (This is a great time to replace the belt and to also lubricate the tensioner pulley, as they often squeal)

      16. Lower the jack until the passenger side body mount touches the body again (but don't lower the jack all the way down yet). Reinstall the 2 16mm pendulum mount bolts, using the jack to help you align the
      holes (raise and lower the jack, and shove the engine with your hands, it is only mounted to the body in one flexible place as of now) Both pendulum mount bolts need to be torqued to 50 Nm (37 ft-lb). These are stretch bolts and VW says they need to be replaced every time they are removed, but I don't.

      17. Reinstall the 16mm bolts to the passenger side body mount. They need to be torqued to 40Nm (30 ft-lb) plus 90 degrees (or 1/4 of a turn). These are stretch bolts and VW says they need to be replaced every time they are removed, but I don't. Just make sure you tighten a little extra.

      18. Reinstall the passenger side body mount bracket. That 13mm bolt needs to be tightened to 20 Nm (15 ft-lb) plus 90 degrees (or 1/4 a turn). Reattach the A/C line strap with the philips screw.

      19. Put the coolant reservoir back into place and tighten down with the two philips screws. Reinstall the power steering reservoir with the long 10mm bolt. Place the wire tie-down back onto the bolt.

      20. Reinstall the lower radiator hose making sure to moisten the o-ring with coolant before pushing the pipe back on. Slide the clip back into place to secure it. Fill cooling system with a 50/50 mix of G12 and distilled water.

      21. Reinstall the passenger side wheel well engine bay cover by pushing it back into place, making sure the front clip slides in smoothly then pushing onto its support screws. Tighten by taking a small diameter deep socket (like 8 mm) and gently tapping it on the speed nuts on the support screws. Replace the rear T-25 torx screw also. Reinstall the engine cover and the underbody pan/sound dampener.

      22. Reinstall the washer fluid bottle by pushing the fluid tubes back on, followed by the level sensor, last replace the two 10mm speed nuts.

      23. Start her up, check for abnormal sounds and leaks. Add coolant/distilled water 50/50 mix as needed as the car warms up.

      Done!!! Give yourself a pat on the back. You just saved tons of mulah!

      IMPORTANT NOTES: I did not remove any other parts while doing this. It may be advisable to remove the air-box lid and other hoses and wire to avoid damage to them, but I did not feel the need. You may also need to loosen the driver’s side engine mount, but the stock mounts have enough play in them that I found this unnecessary. I found that the engine could be raised about 8-10 inches without binding.

      If just using this for a DIY for just the water pump pulley, omit steps 2, 11-13, & 19. If you are upgrading your pulleys like I did, use these revisions:

      Tensioner pulley:
      11a. Remove the three hex bolts that hold the tensioner to the block. Remove tensioner from car. Use a bench vise to hold the tensioner while you remove the pulley bolt. THE TENSIONER PULLEY BOLT IS REVERSE THREADED! Remove pulley bolt by turning clock-wise. Remove old pulley and replace with new one, make sure if the pulley has a lock-ring (like the Gruven parts one) that the lock ring faces towards the tensioner, the side without the lock ring goes on the bolt side. Put loctite on pulley bolt and tighten. Factory torque specs are not available for the tensioner pulley bolt. (Should be pretty tight, use loctite to make sure it doesn't back out. Just be careful as the tensioner is made of aluminum!) Place tensioner back on car, tightening the three hex bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lb).

      Waterpump pulley:
      14. Push the NEW pulley back on the new waterpump, making sure it faces the correct way (flat side towards the passenger side, dished side towards engine). Thread the three hex bolts in and tighten to 20 Nm (15 ft-lb) {For aluminum pulleys, add an extra 1/6-1/4 of a turn). You will need to shove a tool in a hole in the pulley to get leverage to tighten them.

      A 24V (BDF) metal impeller waterpump does exist. I bought a Hepu BDF waterpump with metal impeller. Model# P525 "Comparable to: 022.121.011" However, I had a failure after 5000 miles with this model and the warranty unit sent to replace the old one was cast too big, forcing me to grind the three pointed edges so the pulley could turn without binding. Meyle now makes one so I suggest going with them.

      Old plastic impeller waterpump and new metal impeller waterpmup:







      This is what my car looked like (I was also doing a bunch of other projects)


      Gruven Parts Waterpump pulley and tensioner pulley installed:



      I want to thank the VWVortex community for all the info, especially Veedub_Junky who supplied me with the bolt sizes and part#s.

      Modified by apstguy at 11:01 PM 6-17-2009
      Fixed the OP, mods when you get to it please edit
      Quote Originally Posted by jobothehobo View Post
      passattimmy.... you're a boss
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      Yesterday 03:33 AM #65
      Shout out to PassatTimmy! Thanks man!

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