Oh great! Thanks guys, because if it required any extra force, I was going to just take it to a shop.
Just completed this and my thermostat/housing/crack pipe with very few issues! Solved all my cooling problems and running great! Only 1 pulley screw was a beast. Ended up dremeling a notch in it and using a flathead and hammer to break it free. Oh and one screw in thermostat housing snapped in the block below factory torque specs. I wasn't equipped to drill it so I just went with the two long bolts. No leaks, working great.
I've been following this DIY and I've gotten the bolts from the passenger side mount off. I've been trying to lift the engine up as suggested. However, I just can't seem to raise the engine as much as in this DIY. I don't know if I'm too scared to break something or if something is binding.
Is there no risk to damaging the driver side mount by pushing the engine up so much?
I also tried to drop the engine so I can get access to the water pump but the engine doesn't tend to drop as much.
What am I doing wrong here?
Good write-up. I kept easing the motor up small increments until I could get the pump out with the pulley off. I pried/pushed the motor as far forward as I could. I took the serp belt off and then stuck a long bolt into the wp pulley to break the bolts loose.
I'm "jetblast", but no one believed me when I said I moved and no longer had an old e-mail!
I noticed that a lot of people recommend replacing the OEM waterpump with a metal impeller version. From my personal experience, I went through 3 aftermarket waterpumps (metal impeller) within 3 years. The last one I installed only lasted 4 months before it started leaking. The leaks on all of them came from an internal gasket that allowed coolant to seep out of the housing itself, near the shaft of the pump. Finally I just bought an OEM one 6 months ago (expensive yes!), with the plastic impeller, and it's been holding up fine. My original waterpump lasted over 200,000kms as well, and when i removed it the impeller was 100% intact and solid. It failed because the seal against the block wore out. Just my two cents
Also, I'm not sure if anyone else experienced this, but I almost broke the screws that secure the pump to the block twice. I bought OEM replacement screws (x3) and when tightening them to the spec in the Bentley (I think its around 8NM), they just kept turning. I stopped obviously and removed them and they were stretched almost to the point of breaking in half. So either the Bentley is wrong or I got two bad batches of screws - the metal seemed to be super soft.
Either way, careful when you reinstall the screws! Because of this, I've used the original screws 4 times now...for some reason they tighten up fine.
Great write-up - thanks for taking the time.
While I know this is in the 2.8 section, since there are other posts from 3.2 owners, I'm going to ask a couple questions.
Anyone have a metal impeller pump they like and haven't had problems with?
If lateral movement of the pump's shaft is minimal and the rotation feels tight, is simply using a new o-ring a reasonable solution? Too risky? In my case, I have a small enough leak to warrant replacement while everything is torn apart for my alternator, serp belt and serp belt tensioner replacement.
Is replacement of the pulley mandatory? Highly recommended? Why?
Very helpful. Thanks for taking the time.
Going for an alternator replacement, I ended up needing this. I posted it in the alternator thread. I included some pics of the tight clearance re. getting the pump out and the old OEM pump vs. my replacement.
I also mention the 5mm 12 pt. pump screws (77 inch lbs torque, per the Bentley) and how I got lucky there, the plastic impeller failure, and how I wrecked my pass. side motor mount. Oh well, they should get replaced about now (108k) anyway. Probably smart to get new bolts for the water pump as someone suggested before you do this job. Part#N90544203 (Qty=3)