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    Thread: I keep pulling P0134 even after both O2 sensors are replaced, any ideas?

    1. Member izzo's Avatar
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      '96 Fiat Puntamera diesel
      04-11-2008 08:21 PM #1
      2000 A4 TQM (ATW), 144k on it.
      A few months back CEL came on, I scanned it and it was the after-cat O2 sensor.
      I replaced it with a brand new one, that is 5k miles ago.

      Cleared the faults, CEL came back almost immediately, another code this time.
      Today I replaced the front O2 sensor, brand-spankin' new, both purchased from AutoHausAZ.
      Here's a photo of the old and new front O2 sensors (crappy iPhone one):

      Drove the car for about 10 miles, CEL is back on:


      Control Module Part Number: 4B0 906 018 P
      Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0008
      Software Coding: 07201
      Work Shop Code: WSC 06335
      1 Faults Found:
      16518 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: No Activity
      P0134 - 35-00 - -

      I searched all archived threads here (B5 forum) and the 1.8T forum as well.
      Someone suggested checking the fuses - all are good and dandy.

      Another thread mentioned replacing the vacuum lines - all of them
      I already replaced with new rubber.

      The car has no problems at all (knock on wood), gets fine gas mileage.

      Had it checked at a local muffler, there are no exhaust leaks.

      What gives? Is it the cat is kaput or downpipe or what the fück?
      I am baffled. Any ideas or tips are appreciated

      FS: European B3 GT fender flares for sedan / wagon

      VW DIYs and repair guides, color codes, DTC/P-codes

    2. 04-11-2008 11:09 PM #2
      cat could be clogged maybe

    3. 04-12-2008 09:00 AM #3
      Check the wiring harness to the o2 sensors. Sometimes the wires get frayed or break. Could be an easy fix, happened on my mk3, one of the wires on the harness came loose. GL!

    4. Member izzo's Avatar
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      '96 Fiat Puntamera diesel
      04-14-2008 12:14 AM #4
      Thanks for the tips.

      Quote, originally posted by Greenscobie86 »
      Check the wiring harness to the o2 sensors. Sometimes the wires get frayed or break. Could be an easy fix, happened on my mk3, one of the wires on the harness came loose. GL!

      Like I said, both O2 sensors are brand new,
      but I will re-trace wiring from the sensor connectors to wherever those lead.

      Quote, originally posted by stealth_a4 »
      cat could be clogged maybe

      How do I determine/test for a clogged cat? What are the symptoms if this is the culprit?

      I sure hope it is not the cat, since a new one will run me like $500...

      FS: European B3 GT fender flares for sedan / wagon

      VW DIYs and repair guides, color codes, DTC/P-codes

    5. 04-14-2008 12:11 PM #5
      is your car noticeably slower? if it is than its clogged.

    6. Member Lazer Viking's Avatar
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      too many audis
      04-14-2008 01:34 PM #6
      sometimes a bad maf can throw codes for 02 sensors

    7. 04-15-2008 06:18 PM #7
      There is a procedure to test the computer end of the o2 sensor system. You may want to try and use that as a diagnosis tool. It will tell you that everything up to the o2 sensor is proper.

    8. Member vasillalov's Avatar
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      04-16-2008 02:49 PM #8
      Quote, originally posted by Europiece »
      There is a procedure to test the computer end of the o2 sensor system. You may want to try and use that as a diagnosis tool. It will tell you that everything up to the o2 sensor is proper.

      BINGO!

      Also, with VAG-COM reset the engine readiness codes BEFORE you let the car warm up. Then drive normally till it fully warms up (i.e. a complete heat cycle).

      Then, when you have the engine fully warmed up, check the readiness codes. All should say PASSED.

      Quote Originally Posted by MAG58 View Post
      Please consider your audience before saying something sensible. 80% of TCL drivers were actually banned from Formula 1 for being too fast.
      A turbocharger is a device in where exhaust gases go in, witchcraft happens, and then you go faster.

    9. 04-20-2008 01:43 AM #9
      did you buy the universal sensors? if so they usually come with 4 wires. the front o2 sensors are 3 wire sensors. the remaining wire needs to be grounded. without a proper ground it will throw this fault.

      by the way: b1s1 means bank 1 sensor 1 or the front oxygen sensor. if there is a problem with the front sensor then there is no way of knowing of the rear sensor or catalyst are ok without the front sensor for reference.


    10. Member izzo's Avatar
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      '96 Fiat Puntamera diesel
      04-26-2008 12:45 AM #10
      Here goes.

      I re-traced all wiring that goes from both O2 sensor connectors
      to the ECU. Most of it is tightly wrapped, I could see/find no punctures.

      Like I said, both O2 sensors are brand new OEM Bosch.
      Not universal ones, both have four wires. This is the front one:

      So do I need to ground the fourth wire to chassis or what?

      ECU box looked like it was never opened. Wiring underneath ECU appeared fine:

      Then I found two vacuum lines underneath the manifold,
      one of them from the EGR system; replaced both.

      Cleared the fault code three times, it still came back.
      Also, only THREE readiness cosed for the engine said Passed:

      The rest were Incomplete/Failed regardless of cold/warm motor.

      I am still where I began.
      Vasil suggested MAF, I will dip the sensor in alcohol tomorrow
      and see if this does any good. Either way, I will be buying a new one for the sake of it.

      Oh, and I have a complaint the make. These clamps on the vacuum hoses
      (same that are used on tie-rod boots) are the suck

      FS: European B3 GT fender flares for sedan / wagon

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    11. Member izzo's Avatar
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      04-26-2008 12:53 AM #11
      Quote, originally posted by stealth_a4 »
      is your car noticeably slower? if it is than its clogged.

      Not at all, does not sputter or anything, mileage is fine...
      FS: European B3 GT fender flares for sedan / wagon

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    12. Member izzo's Avatar
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      04-27-2008 07:56 PM #12
      Well I dipped the MAF in alcohol yesterday:

      Let it dry overnight and drove the car today, CEL came back after twenty miles.

      And just out of curiosity, what is this metal piece on the top cover of the airbox (in blue)?
      It has four spots for bolts, but nothing on top of it...

      Apparently the MAF was taken out before, or at least the connector,
      since some of the connector plastic was broken - see the photo below...

      So, unless someone chimes in with something else for me to try,
      I will be buying a new MAF.

      FS: European B3 GT fender flares for sedan / wagon

      VW DIYs and repair guides, color codes, DTC/P-codes

    13. 04-27-2008 10:35 PM #13
      the metal piece is used as a heatsink for an ICM. they are supposed to keep cool.

    14. Member vasillalov's Avatar
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      04-28-2008 04:53 PM #14
      I think you might have to purchase a new MAF sensor. Before you spend the money, do a VAG-COM test on the MAF output.

      I'll dig up the info on how to do this...

      Quote Originally Posted by MAG58 View Post
      Please consider your audience before saying something sensible. 80% of TCL drivers were actually banned from Formula 1 for being too fast.
      A turbocharger is a device in where exhaust gases go in, witchcraft happens, and then you go faster.

    15. 04-28-2008 06:52 PM #15
      Quote, originally posted by izzo »
      Control Module Part Number: 4B0 906 018 P
      Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0008
      Software Coding: 07201
      Work Shop Code: WSC 06335
      1 Faults Found:
      16518 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: No Activity
      P0134 - 35-00 -

      Came in here a bit late, and I'm too lazy to sift through all of the posts.

      B1 S1 is the pre-cat O2 sensor, so there's no reason to suspect a bad cat to begin with... Also, the no activity code makes it pretty clear that you either have a defective new O2 sensor, or you had a pre-existing wiring issue with your old one.

      You need to check all of the wiring going to the primary O2 sensor. I don't remember the color-coding of the wires, but 2 of them are the power and ground for the O2 sensor heater, and the other 2 are power and ground for the actual O2 sensor circuit.

      Test the wires all the way from the primary O2 sensor to the ECU. Also make sure that the harness is properly plugged into the ECU. I hate wiring problems, to be honest. They are a bitch, and nobody wants to deal with them.

      As for the readiness tests, a lot of those take 100 or more miles of driving to pass after clearing codes or resetting the ECU. SAI readiness requires quite a few cold starts, and the cat readiness test requires both O2s to be getting readings.

      Good luck.


    16. Member izzo's Avatar
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      05-19-2008 03:55 PM #16
      I put a brand new OEM Bosch MAF during the weekend.
      Cleared the codes, and drove the car, the CEL came on
      after about 10 minutes of driving - same code.

      What else do I have to replace? The stooped car??

      After visually inspecting the wiring for both sensors (looks fine)
      how do I go about checking for continuity - with a voltmeter?
      Anyone care to explain? TIA

      FS: European B3 GT fender flares for sedan / wagon

      VW DIYs and repair guides, color codes, DTC/P-codes

    17. Semi-n00b iDriveTheTT's Avatar
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      02-05-2014 08:58 PM #17
      Were you able to figure it out? I've been having the same issue. I suspect a fried wire on the car.
      If you like NASCAR you can't touch my engine.

    18. n00b
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      02-06-2014 11:20 AM #18
      Your problem is in ecm nothing related to oxsreading is being processed in ecm replace and reprogram ecm

      Sent from my AT100 using Tapatalk 2

    19. Semi-n00b iDriveTheTT's Avatar
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      02-06-2014 01:36 PM #19
      I'm going to take this in to the import mechanic and let them do a full diagnostic on it, because I'm baffled.
      If you like NASCAR you can't touch my engine.

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