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    VWVortex


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    Thread: *The unofficial VR supercharged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera

    1. Member DeckManDubs's Avatar
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      09-12-2012 09:14 AM #5101
      groupracer made 313whp on his V9 setup
      -Noah
      Corrado - Burns money faster than hookers and blow | 911 Turbo - Hates noise ordnance's, fuel and tires in that order | TT - Colorless Wonder with a C16 habit

    2. Member CorradoMagic's Avatar
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      09-12-2012 03:21 PM #5102
      Kit for sale/trade.
      I have a customer who isnt on vortex that wants $2K for his VF kit. (V9, OBD2 MK3 VR).
      He will need your ECU, Intake tube/pipe, Serp Tensioner w/ belt & injectors.
      located in LI, NY
      ..said Id put the word out for him.

      He's had it on less than a yr. cant tell ya exact milage etc. IM for contact/further details.
      The DubNutz OEM & Performance parts in Long Island. Autotech, Quaife, ST, KW, Koni, Tein, JE, ClutchMasters, StopTech, Samco, Whiteline, TT, VF-E, Euro body accessories, TDN performance Mounts and lots more. Lowest Prices on ST Coilovers! ask

    3. 09-12-2012 07:25 PM #5103
      Quote Originally Posted by VdubBry View Post
      I got the plug from TurboSmart, turns out it is too big for my hybrid BOV, mine is 3-4 years old and the hole is like 1", their new valves it is like 1.25 or 1.5". So if that is the size of yours, You can have mine for just the cost of shipping if needed.
      Mine is the same as yours. I had to make a plug for trumpet. Its a real fine thread so a quick trip to the machine shop and made my own

    4. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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      09-16-2012 10:48 PM #5104
      Oh man, check out my sweet oil pickup from the old motor


    5. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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      09-18-2012 02:34 AM #5105
      Right, so thanks to Chris (Banana.Phone), I picked up a motor to swap in.
      A friend was really helping me out (325isStephen) with his experience & shop

      It was a pretty steep ordeal, since my setup is OBD1 distributor and the replacement motor was OBD2 coilpack, and the time frame was extremely limited (3 days tops).

      This meant changing a bunch of gaskets, plugging SAI, swapping upper timing covers, and changing the speed ring from the sprocket 2-4-6 cam.

      That is where things got dicey since to change the speed ring, you have to undo one of the cam bolts, and we don't have a cam tool. Upon torquing the bolt back up, the chain jumped some teeth...

      Sooo, that meant the top needed to be timed, but then we noticed that the lower guides were broken....

      Sooo, that meant the bottom end needed to be timed. It seems that whoever had installed the new-ish chains had over-tightened the guides and completely snapped them. Fortunately the ones from my motor were still good (and new-ish). Although one of the guides was from my dual chain setup (obd2 is single), the motor doesn't make any chain noise whatsoever

      Once we finally got the motor buttoned up and in the car, we did what I had been dreading, changed the pans. From the above post, you can see that my oil pickup has a crack.
      What you're about to see is how lovely THIS pickup was....



      Totally obliterated. Sadly, in the interest of time, we reused my pickup.
      Since the motor had been sitting for a few months, the intent is to change out the oil before the drive down to H20, and do the pickup at that time.

      All in all, she fired up on the first try, and aside from some loud lifters (which have already gotten considerably quieter), she runs like butter.

      I'm not beating on it quite yet, since we also installed a clutchnet stage1 (green 300ft-lb) setup at the same time.



      I wish I had remembered to film what the car looked and sounded like before, because this new motor is soo goddamn smooth and waay quieter. Not to mention it doesn't have smoke billowing out of the hood whenever I stop.

      The new motor has normal vapour out of the vent, but nothing serious at all

      For the record, the old motor I was driving had compression of 180-190 or so, except for cylinders 3 & 5 which barely broke 80. Sounded like I had some bigass cams

    6. Former Advertiser
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      09-18-2012 02:51 PM #5106
      Prometheus, glad to see you sorted everything out and are back up and running!

      To clarify you're not using the cracked pump with the new engine are you??

      We had a car in a few years back with a similar crack in the pump. The previous owner drove the car dumped and apparently destroyed the original pan. Instead of replacing the pump it just got a new pan and was sold. We got the car in for work which had next to zero oil pressure. The blower was obviously toast and the engine had some serious wear from lack of oil.




    7. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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      09-18-2012 07:06 PM #5107
      I am until the end of the week.
      I have no way to get to/from work without my car, and didn't order the part ahead of time (not cheap). So, I'm doing another oil change before I head out to H20, and will be replacing it then.

    8. Member youlostme21's Avatar
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      09-18-2012 08:03 PM #5108
      At what PSI are you guys running inline fuel pumps?
      C2 30#, 262's and I push around 13-14psi but dont have a wideband yet. Not sure which I should buy first since the wideband will either tell me I shoulda bought the fuel pump or that there is probably other problems.
      Thanks.

      Any any one using a Forge DV or any of the like?

      Not sure if it was cause to much backpressure on the impeller.
      If only I invested my money into something more practical then a VW....

    9. Former Advertiser
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      09-18-2012 10:16 PM #5109
      Quote Originally Posted by prometheus_ View Post
      I am until the end of the week.
      I have no way to get to/from work without my car, and didn't order the part ahead of time (not cheap). So, I'm doing another oil change before I head out to H20, and will be replacing it then.
      YIKES!!

      No its not cheap, but neither is an engine replacement. Your pump is without question not supplying enough oil throughout. I'm surprised it hasn't caused immediate damage. It looks a lot worse then the pump we came across and that engine was toast from lack of oil.

      Quote Originally Posted by youlostme21 View Post
      At what PSI are you guys running inline fuel pumps?
      C2 30#, 262's and I push around 13-14psi but dont have a wideband yet. Not sure which I should buy first since the wideband will either tell me I shoulda bought the fuel pump or that there is probably other problems.
      Thanks.

      Any any one using a Forge DV or any of the like?

      Not sure if it was cause to much backpressure on the impeller.
      Blower size, boost level, cam selection and tune/injector size all play a part. Typically anything north of 12psi will require an additional or high flow fuel pump. As mentioned, if you do go the route of an inline, make sure its pre-filter. This can be tough depending on the chassis, but is obviously the most ideal location for an inline.

      One thing to think about is stepping up to a larger intank pump. Schimmel makes a high flow drop in as does 034. Both are plug and play, so no dealing with running new lines, wires or the like. Installation is a lot easier and you won't be stuck listening to the annoying buzz of an inline.

      http://www.spturbo.com/onlinestore/i...fuel-pump.html

    10. Member turbo mike's Avatar
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      09-19-2012 12:27 PM #5110
      Prometheus, pm me your address and ill send you a spare/used vr oil pump if you didn't already order one. I had 2, ordered a new one bc I just wanted a fresh one, and now have 2 laying around.

      About inline pumps, I ran mk4 hg, 268's, and 14-15psi. Over 11psi I went lean. Tossed a walbro pump in, never went lean again. So def look into getting one ASAP. I'd do that over the wideband just bc it will be a safer bet.
      Mike
      supercharged glx - 12.0 @ 113mph (12psi Vortech V1)
      turbocharged glx - 12.7 @ 108mph (7psi Borg Warner S362 .88 a/r)

    11. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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      09-19-2012 08:21 PM #5111
      PM'd (obv).

      I'm really anxious to ramp up the boost, but A. I'm still breaking in the new clutch, B. breaking in a new motor that's been sitting, and C. that oil pickup

      Tempted to do what you were doing mike, and just run a belt w/ no idler

    12. Member youlostme21's Avatar
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      09-20-2012 07:33 PM #5112
      Well, scored a wide band for a decnt price so I'm going to stick that in and see where its at. I have a 3.12 pulley too that I might throw on to lower the boost to a safe level for now.
      If only I invested my money into something more practical then a VW....

    13. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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      09-21-2012 08:34 PM #5113
      any of you folks planning on being @ h20 this year?

    14. Member youlostme21's Avatar
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      09-21-2012 08:55 PM #5114
      I'm trying to get my car back up and running tommorow so it will make it. Need to take the fun car to atleast one show this year.
      If only I invested my money into something more practical then a VW....

    15. Member Vw FreäK's Avatar
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      09-24-2012 10:26 PM #5115
      Hey guys! I have a few questions:

      1. Does anybody know what size of belt do I need to use if im running no p/s with a/c, 12 psi pulley and double idler pulley??

      2. And Here is my major question. I have a BIG!! problem with my set up! I have a 98' vr with a v1 blower and 12 psi pulley, stage 2 c2 software, 4'' maf and 440 green tops and when I hit 6+ psi or 5000 and up Rpm's the car goes WAY LEAN!!! And I dont know what it can be.

      If you guys can help me I will appreciated so much!

    16. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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      09-26-2012 11:51 PM #5116
      Just found out I've got a pinhole leak in one of my heater hoses
      Leaving for H20 in under 24hrs, so it looks like I've got my hands full after work tomorrow

    17. Former Advertiser
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      09-27-2012 01:22 AM #5117
      Quote Originally Posted by Vw FreäK View Post
      Hey guys! I have a few questions:

      1. Does anybody know what size of belt do I need to use if im running no p/s with a/c, 12 psi pulley and double idler pulley??

      2. And Here is my major question. I have a BIG!! problem with my set up! I have a 98' vr with a v1 blower and 12 psi pulley, stage 2 c2 software, 4'' maf and 440 green tops and when I hit 6+ psi or 5000 and up Rpm's the car goes WAY LEAN!!! And I dont know what it can be.

      If you guys can help me I will appreciated so much!
      1) The easiest way of determining your belt length is to get a cloth measuring tape and run it in place of the belt itself. That will give you the most accurate sizing of all.

      2) How are you determining your engine is running lean and at what A/F ratio? What fuel pump are you running? Does the engine have cams? If so what duration?

      C2 440cc file has more then enough fuel to support your boost level.

    18. Member Vw FreäK's Avatar
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      09-28-2012 02:49 PM #5118
      Quote Originally Posted by Phil@VerdictMotorsports View Post
      1) The easiest way of determining your belt length is to get a cloth measuring tape and run it in place of the belt itself. That will give you the most accurate sizing of all.

      2) How are you determining your engine is running lean and at what A/F ratio? What fuel pump are you running? Does the engine have cams? If so what duration?

      C2 440cc file has more then enough fuel to support your boost level.
      Thanks for the info on the belt length...

      Well I'm determining my A/F Ratio with my AEM Wideband... It goes between 13.2-14 when boosting more than 6-7 psi or 5000+ RPM. Although it idles between 11.8-12.3

      My car has 2.9 clone intake mani, 263/264 cams with full 2.5'' exhaust and ported exhaust manifolds and an ECS fuel regulator

    19. Member turbo mike's Avatar
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      09-28-2012 05:41 PM #5119
      You need an Inline pump. I ran a walbro 155gph unit, perfect.
      Mike
      supercharged glx - 12.0 @ 113mph (12psi Vortech V1)
      turbocharged glx - 12.7 @ 108mph (7psi Borg Warner S362 .88 a/r)

    20. 09-28-2012 05:55 PM #5120
      Quote Originally Posted by Vw FreäK View Post
      Thanks for the info on the belt length...

      Well I'm determining my A/F Ratio with my AEM Wideband... It goes between 13.2-14 when boosting more than 6-7 psi or 5000+ RPM. Although it idles between 11.8-12.3

      My car has 2.9 clone intake mani, 263/264 cams with full 2.5'' exhaust and ported exhaust manifolds and an ECS fuel regulator

      ...
      Last edited by dmoe; 01-04-2013 at 05:54 PM.

    21. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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      09-28-2012 09:58 PM #5121
      Any of you guys in ocean city?
      I'm in the red mk3 jetta with Ontario plates

    22. Member divineVR6's Avatar
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      09-28-2012 10:35 PM #5122
      anybody running a z-engineering charger?
      Homegrown Motorsports

    23. Member VdubBry's Avatar
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      09-29-2012 09:34 PM #5123
      I have the C2 Stage II file, and I know it does the fuel cut at coasting in gear above around 2000RPM, but what should she be running when coasting under 2K RPM, coasting under 2K she goes mostly full rich and gives an annoying bucking type feeling.

    24. Member slimvdub's Avatar
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      10-01-2012 05:54 PM #5124
      I have read most of this thread and decided to do this s/c thing. I have a few questions? This is going to be a v1 single idler

      1. I would like to know the part# for the vortech idler pulley mine seems to large I cant fit the belt in between it and the Alt.

      2: I also have a dual idler bracket but no pulleys for it would anyone happen to know the part numbers for them i see a large and small one. Also would i need a diffrent belt other than my single idler one?

      I am getting all the parts for my kit gathered up I have a list off all the parts and part numbers including the small stuff like fittings and lines hoses and tubing and such. When my kit is finshed and running and has the bugs worked out I would be more than happy to post it up to help people along


      Thanks In Advance

    25. Member youlostme21's Avatar
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      10-01-2012 07:26 PM #5125
      I have a single Idler set up. Its a vortech pulley and it is pretty tight between the idler and the charger but there is plenty of room between the idler and the alternator.
      Not to say my setup is right either tho... I tried to put a bigger 3.12" pulley on my charger and couldn't cause the idler haha. So I kept the 2.62 and will be installing my Wideband tomorrow to see whats happening.

      I made it to OC and back but I scanned my car on the way back just to see. Stored a p1158 Long term fuel trims lean... Ever since I got the c2 chip it would always run terrible for a bit after reconnected the battery or clearing codes. I think I'm going ot have to swap to known 30# injectors and see what happens. Not sure I should trust some of the vortex clowns.
      If only I invested my money into something more practical then a VW....

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