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    Thread: *The unofficial VR supercharged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera

    1. Junior Member
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      09-20-2014 01:57 AM #5741
      Recently bought a 2002 mkiv 24v vr6 gti with v9 sc from vf. Car has 50,000 miles and sc has close to 40,000 miles. New to VW's, superchargers and don't have much experience working on cars. Things may be getting difficult or at the least interesting. I've only gotten through about 20 pages of this thread and will continue on.

      I have all the records from the car since day 1 and the PO was changing the MAF about every 2,500 miles for the past 10,000 miles. Paying the dealer almost $400 each time! I think the MAF is beginning to act up again. Seems like performance is a little reduced, some occasional "bucking" and tonight the car sputtered and died but started right back up. On the local Pacific Northwest thread another Vortex member recommended I move the MAF because it gets to hot sitting right next to the supercharger and supercharger discharge tube. I just want to find the MAF first try cleaning it and replacing it if needed using the 2.0 MAF. I haven't started to take anything apart yet and am looking for a few (maybe a lot - time will tell) pointers/advice.

      1) Is the maf connected to the sc intake tube right after the air filter (which is mostly straight tube running down in front of the right/passenger tire)?

      2) Will the intake/air filter lift out of the fender well after removing the flexible tubing from the supercharer intake opening?

      3) Will the MAF wiring allow it to be lifted out without disconnecting?

      4) Do i need to take the bumper and/or left fender off to access the air filter and MAF?

      5) Recommendations for possible thread with tips for removing the fender/bumper from a mkiv?

      6) Possible tips for relocating the air intake/filter/maf?

      7) In time I may try to increase air flow/boost by changing pulleys, injectors (if needed) and adding awic from frozen boost. I am assuming car is running GIAC that came with vf kit. If system is upgraded as indicated above I will likely need a new tune? Any tune recommended for boost increase to 8 -10 psi? (need to put gauge in first don't know what current boost level is) Any tunes set up to allow MAF to be installed after sc?

      That is probably more than enough questions for now and thanks for any hep or suggestions.

    2. Member BOUDAH's Avatar
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      BMP .:R32 Supercharged , '13 CC (POS)
      09-23-2014 11:40 AM #5742
      Quote Originally Posted by trh1157 View Post
      Recently bought a 2002 mkiv 24v vr6 gti with v9 sc from vf. Car has 50,000 miles and sc has close to 40,000 miles. New to VW's, superchargers and don't have much experience working on cars. Things may be getting difficult or at the least interesting. I've only gotten through about 20 pages of this thread and will continue on.

      I have all the records from the car since day 1 and the PO was changing the MAF about every 2,500 miles for the past 10,000 miles. Paying the dealer almost $400 each time! I think the MAF is beginning to act up again. Seems like performance is a little reduced, some occasional "bucking" and tonight the car sputtered and died but started right back up. On the local Pacific Northwest thread another Vortex member recommended I move the MAF because it gets to hot sitting right next to the supercharger and supercharger discharge tube. I just want to find the MAF first try cleaning it and replacing it if needed using the 2.0 MAF. I haven't started to take anything apart yet and am looking for a few (maybe a lot - time will tell) pointers/advice.

      1) Is the maf connected to the sc intake tube right after the air filter (which is mostly straight tube running down in front of the right/passenger tire)?

      2) Will the intake/air filter lift out of the fender well after removing the flexible tubing from the supercharer intake opening?

      3) Will the MAF wiring allow it to be lifted out without disconnecting?

      4) Do i need to take the bumper and/or left fender off to access the air filter and MAF?

      5) Recommendations for possible thread with tips for removing the fender/bumper from a mkiv?

      6) Possible tips for relocating the air intake/filter/maf?

      7) In time I may try to increase air flow/boost by changing pulleys, injectors (if needed) and adding awic from frozen boost. I am assuming car is running GIAC that came with vf kit. If system is upgraded as indicated above I will likely need a new tune? Any tune recommended for boost increase to 8 -10 psi? (need to put gauge in first don't know what current boost level is) Any tunes set up to allow MAF to be installed after sc?

      That is probably more than enough questions for now and thanks for any hep or suggestions.

      Read through this thread http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ortex-registry



      Before attempting anything remove the bumper. Your MAF is getting killed for one of two reasons or both;. The VF STG 2 kits had a Catch can to vent the crankcase gases filtering from the can to the top elbow into the Supercharger inlet. The purpose like the OEM version is to suck the vapor back through the intake stream burning it off. Well instead it jsut leaks down the tube on the MAF sensor, killing it. Do yourself a favor and remove the extra tube from the can to the 45* elbow on the plastic inlet tube. U can use a Bolt in its stead as its threaded. Just empty the can from now on when it gets full

      If this IS NOT the ISSUE. then remove the plastic intake tube. When you pull the bumper off, you will see why it was important to remove it. You will need to disconnect the diverter tubes to the inlet pipe and the MAF housing and silicon to the supercharger inlet. If there is ol in there around the blades, you could possibly have leaking seals and this could be another issue with the blower and leaking oil onto your MAF.

      Feel free tom PM w/ any further questions.

    3. Junior Member
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      2002 24V VR6 GTI
      09-26-2014 11:51 PM #5743
      [QUOTE=BOUDAH;86357457]Read through this thread http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ortex-registry

      Thanks for the info. Hope to get car in garage this weekend - gotta clear stuff out. Great thread reference above - was going to wait until I finished reading this one but got started on the .:R thread and read it start to finish. Wanted to get an .:R before I bought the GTI but couldn't find an sc'd one, with low miles, in good shape, local, etc. and, most importantly, within the budget. Tim.

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      09-27-2014 08:08 AM #5744
      Got my car dynoed! 307whp!

      Setup:
      12v vr
      Arp rod bolts
      262 cams
      Hd springs
      Mk4 hg
      Gutted and rewelded upper manifold gasket matched
      Lower intake gasket matched
      #42 injectors and software from c2
      255lph inline pump
      3" exhaust
      Factory , ported exhaust manifold
      Vortech v1 with 2.87 pulley (11psi at 7k)

      Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
      "You see, i'm from Jersey."

      That'll cover about anything.
      VRalliance #6

    5. Member turbo mike's Avatar
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      97 Turbo GLX
      09-27-2014 08:57 AM #5745
      Nice numbers. Pretty spot on for the mods. You should see a 12 second pass in that thing. I got a heavy mk3 jetta to go 12.5 with just drag radials and the same power.

      Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
      Mike
      supercharged glx - 12.0 @ 113mph (12psi Vortech V1)
      turbocharged glx - 12.7 @ 108mph (7psi Borg Warner S362 .88 a/r)

    6. Member
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      09-29-2014 04:54 PM #5746
      Awesome i would really like to pull a 12.0 out of it ! It will be going under the knife this winter , possibly smaller pulley with a HG spacer and arp head studs, but i know for sure i want to do 62k bearing and a rebuild on the charger for good measure
      Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
      "You see, i'm from Jersey."

      That'll cover about anything.
      VRalliance #6

    7. Member vw1320's Avatar
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      All Motor 12v
      09-30-2014 12:30 AM #5747
      Good to see someone still messing with a charger on a 12v. I am probably one of the biggest fans of supercharged vr6s out there. Unless the caris light though I don't see a 12.0 at that power level. Running mid 12's is pretty straightforward but anything quicker takes some dedication and experimentation. Best of luck though.

      As for your winter plans - ARP head bolts are a waste on any vr. I don't really recommend smaller than a 2.87" pulley either as the result is typically more belt slip and extra stress on all the belt driven components for not a whole lot more boost. I would leave the compression and pulley alone and just work on the rest of the car. Dialing it on the track is going to make a bigger difference than those mods might.
      11.82@113 First and only All Motor 12v Street Car in the 11' s

    8. Member
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      10-04-2014 12:52 AM #5748
      Quote Originally Posted by vw1320 View Post
      Good to see someone still messing with a charger on a 12v. I am probably one of the biggest fans of supercharged vr6s out there. Unless the caris light though I don't see a 12.0 at that power level. Running mid 12's is pretty straightforward but anything quicker takes some dedication and experimentation. Best of luck though.

      As for your winter plans - ARP head bolts are a waste on any vr. I don't really recommend smaller than a 2.87" pulley either as the result is typically more belt slip and extra stress on all the belt driven components for not a whole lot more boost. I would leave the compression and pulley alone and just work on the rest of the car. Dialing it on the track is going to make a bigger difference than those mods might.
      Im a dual idler setup so i dont forsee belt slip to be an issue but who knows, i hit the track for the first time on the slicks since i added the charger, completely different animal now, either bogged or spun, when i was n/a every launch was perfect. My best was a 12.7 at 110 tonight, only got 3 passes in. I need alot more seat time with the new clutch, trans and slicks
      Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
      "You see, i'm from Jersey."

      That'll cover about anything.
      VRalliance #6

    9. Member vw1320's Avatar
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      All Motor 12v
      10-04-2014 02:10 AM #5749
      What size slicks ? What trans and clutch setup? How much does the car weigh? 110 mph should be good for a mid 12 or lower. Unfortunately all my old slips are no longer hosted but I went 12.7@110 on radials the first time I went to the track and a 12.3@112 or so the second time. I believe the car was around 2650 with me in it back then.
      11.82@113 First and only All Motor 12v Street Car in the 11' s

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      10-04-2014 02:54 AM #5750
      Quote Originally Posted by vw1320 View Post
      What size slicks ? What trans and clutch setup? How much does the car weigh? 110 mph should be good for a mid 12 or lower. Unfortunately all my old slips are no longer hosted but I went 12.7@110 on radials the first time I went to the track and a 12.3@112 or so the second time. I believe the car was around 2650 with me in it back then.
      22x8x15 slicks, o2a stock with a quaife, xtd stage 3 6puck , no idea what it weighs. I think the car has a 12.2 in it atleast, that 12.7 was spinning the slicks at a high 1.9 60' , if i could pull a 1.6 or 1.7 60' it would be a 12.2
      Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
      "You see, i'm from Jersey."

      That'll cover about anything.
      VRalliance #6

    11. Member vw1320's Avatar
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      All Motor 12v
      10-04-2014 11:29 AM #5751
      I always liked those tires. As you said seat time is key. Get a decent low pressure gauge and start around 9.5-9psi and work your way down in .5-.25 psi increments. If I remember correctly the sweet spot is around 8psi but every setup will be different.
      11.82@113 First and only All Motor 12v Street Car in the 11' s

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      10-04-2014 09:15 PM #5752
      Ok guys i changed my maf sensor to a known good one (into the 4" housing) and plugged in my IAT (was unplugged after the charger install) and since i did that my AFR went from 10.5-11.0 at WOT to ~12.0 at WOT . It feels fine but idk if that is safe , im running a 2.87 pulley at 11psi at redline. C2 software
      Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
      "You see, i'm from Jersey."

      That'll cover about anything.
      VRalliance #6

    13. Member turbo mike's Avatar
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      10-04-2014 09:27 PM #5753
      Perfect...

      Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
      Mike
      supercharged glx - 12.0 @ 113mph (12psi Vortech V1)
      turbocharged glx - 12.7 @ 108mph (7psi Borg Warner S362 .88 a/r)

    14. Member vdubxcrew's Avatar
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      10-05-2014 08:57 AM #5754
      What max PSI would a 3.25 pulley make with a V5 charger?
      I do ported/modified VR6 and 2.0 throttle bodies, mirror polish and port intake manifolds. PM me for details.

    15. 10-07-2014 02:41 AM #5755
      I want 4 inch dia honey comb straightener for fitting in a 4 inch pipe for my project. Reply asap with bill of material

    16. Member 92Lowraddo's Avatar
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      10-08-2014 05:26 PM #5756
      Quote Originally Posted by bij678 View Post
      I want 4 inch dia honey comb straightener for fitting in a 4 inch pipe for my project. Reply asap with bill of material
      Saxonpc.com carries a bunch of air flow straighteners.

    17. Member lilrabbitGTi95's Avatar
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      10-12-2014 11:51 AM #5757
      Howdy folks, posting here just to subscribe and get my foot in the door for questions I'm sure I'll have here soon. I've been preparing myself and my car for a supercharger for quite some time. I just recently finished the motor build and have been working out the kinks since installing it, and getting some miles on it NA before I boost. In the mean time I've been gathering info, parts, and reference for when the big day comes.

      My engine is built as follows:

      Stock bottom end with just ARP hardware and new bearings
      MK4 headgasket
      Schimmel Performance Ported/polished head
      Schrick 263 cams
      GIAC cam specific chip
      Peloquin LSD for the drive-train side of things.

      About 1000 miles on that motor so far, still fixing coolant leaks, and being overly critical of every little noise it makes. I think the motor is good honestly, I'm just still very on edge about everything, questioning my on build.

      In the way of forced induction I got a good deal on a used kit for a Vortech V1. It came with the charger, all the brackets, #30 injectors, oil lines, a bunch of intake piping, air filter, etc. Everything except for software, basically.

      Plan is to go with c2 #30 tune, a 95mm maf, 3 inch pulley, and some fancy routing of the piping and call it good to start with. The car is already no slouch, hoping to make it into the 300 club farther down the road with new injectors, tune, and fuel pump.

      Anywho, just stopping in to say hello and learn. Awesome thread you guys have going here, happy I can finally contribute.

    18. Member vwfotos94's Avatar
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      10-17-2014 10:29 PM #5758
      Hey guys, I just resently picked up a vortech v2 kit that has a 12# pulley on it which would be a 2.75" correct? The guy i got it from was running ac which i am not running and i was wondering what and where i could get a new belt from? i am also not running powersteering. Also i was wondering what DV/ Bov you some of you were running on your setups.

      What my setup is going to look it:


      Stock Bottom end
      ported intake and exhaust
      268 techtonics cams
      Mk4 headgasket
      vortech v2 charger with 2.75 pulley
      42# software and injetors
      4inch maf


      Also i was wondering how far and how you guys ran your intake/maf housing.

      Thank you!

    19. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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      10-18-2014 12:04 AM #5759
      Here's all the belt info I've gathered in regard to legacy 12v motors using V1/2 blowers.
      I repeat, V1 & V2 blowers. NOT V9

      Code:
      No a/c, single idler, 2.87" 6 rib pulley, 6 rib belt using AMS mount - 58 3/8" (Gates 060578)
      
      No a/c, single idler, ~3.12" 7 rib pulley, 6 rib belt using AMS mount.
      EDIT: correct length for future searches is 58.5" or a 6pk1485 belt
      
      No a/c, AMS with no idler, 53.5"
      
      Length of VR6 Vortech SC belt W/ AC
      60.5" 7 rib single sided 
      
      Gatorback
      4060578 (6PK1470) = 6rib 57.75
      4080605/4080610 (8rib, cut to 7)
      4060605 = 6 rib 60.5"
      
      Dayco
      5060575 = 6 rib 57.5"
      5060605 = 6 rib 60.5"
      5070610 = 7 rib 61.58" **GOOD**
      
      Gates FleetRunner (http://tinyurl.com/bqx9f45)
      K060578HD = 6rib 57.81(Current NAPA)
      K060569HD = 6rib 56.99
      K060575HD = 6rib 57.5
      K070640HD = 7rib 64"
      K060615HD = 6rib 61.5"

    20. Member
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      10-22-2014 07:47 AM #5760
      C2 software 42# , when the car idles it prefers to be at 13.5-14.0 if it leans out to 14.5-14.7 it actually runs rougher and starts to "hiccup" . Is this normal or do i have an issue
      Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
      "You see, i'm from Jersey."

      That'll cover about anything.
      VRalliance #6

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      10-22-2014 05:42 PM #5761
      Quote Originally Posted by APCXxstovetopxX View Post
      C2 software 42# , when the car idles it prefers to be at 13.5-14.0 if it leans out to 14.5-14.7 it actually runs rougher and starts to "hiccup" . Is this normal or do i have an issue
      i have the same thing happen running my 42# tune, it idles great richer than 14.0 but will randomly lean out and hiccup for about 30 secs then fix itself

    22. Member
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      10-22-2014 06:57 PM #5762
      Quote Originally Posted by 12V_VR View Post
      i have the same thing happen running my 42# tune, it idles great richer than 14.0 but will randomly lean out and hiccup for about 30 secs then fix itself
      Mine never seems to fix itself it will just stay hiccuping or rough running till i rev it or pull away from a stop, then i come to a stop and it begins again
      Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
      "You see, i'm from Jersey."

      That'll cover about anything.
      VRalliance #6

    23. Member
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      10-22-2014 11:29 PM #5763
      Its totally weird,we're not the only ones that have this problem. Anyways i will be going Lugtronic which will fix this problem.

    24. Member
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      10-24-2014 01:06 PM #5764
      Quote Originally Posted by 12V_VR View Post
      Its totally weird,we're not the only ones that have this problem. Anyways i will be going Lugtronic which will fix this problem.
      My thoughts exactly
      Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
      "You see, i'm from Jersey."

      That'll cover about anything.
      VRalliance #6

    25. Member vortexpert.'s Avatar
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      10-27-2014 01:59 AM #5765
      hi guys. haven't posted in a long time. im getting rid of my vf stage 2 from my 98 gti and piecing together a V2 set up. if I call vortec what charger do I get?

    26. Junior Member
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      11-02-2014 10:41 PM #5766
      Finally got enough stuff out of the garage to get my car in. Ended up getting "EPC and engine" on dash - assumed it was MAF related. Pulled things apart to access MAF and small amount of oil just below impellor on sc and looked like small film of oil (dried) on intake tube. Couldn't see oil on MAF and no oil on air filter. Parts stores wouldn't sell just sensor and wanted $329 for new MAF or $249 for re-man. Decided to clean MAF before replacing - seemed to work dash lights went out and car runs well.

      Think I will continue to drive it and expect MAF may act up again. Is a little (less than teaspoon) oil near impeller the likely culprit?

      Can I continue to run it knowing I may have to clean MAF every 2,000 miles or so or do I need new seals now (V-9 F trim)?

      Want to put in boost gauge and A/F gauge (2 1/8" diam) using panel I have seen for sale that mounts in vacant area above radio. Prefer similar lighting to stock (Indigo?).

      Recommendations on gauges appreciated - will be changing pulley, new injectors and new software at some point. Should I get a vacumm - boost combo guage? Is there an A/F gauge that can log data? Can this data be sent to the new software company so they can adjust tune if A/F is out of whack?

    27. Member youlostme21's Avatar
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      11-06-2014 11:54 AM #5767
      V2's can be found used for reasonable prices across many different car genres. Mustang guys run them all the time. If your buying new I would get a self contained unit for ease of install and operation.

      For oil leaking on the MAF, find te source and fix it. Pcv system or output shaft seal of the charger are most likely. It's no fun being broken down or pulling to a light with a car running like garbage. Gauges are up to you. I like having vac/boost gauge for diagnostic purposes. The custom tune stuff I don't know much about but I would be weary of then not having the car to test on. Too many variables.


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      If only I invested my money into something more practical then a VW....

    28. Junior Member
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      11-10-2014 11:35 PM #5768
      Thanks for the reply. I'm vf stage 1 (V-9) probably only running about 5 psi. The New South gauges would be nice since they match the stock gauges but I think their lowest one is 0 to 25 psi. Id only be a blip on the gauge face - wish they made some at 0 to 15. Anyway, considering Glowshift digital gauges. If I wasn't planning to use the A/F gauge for tuning but just to monitor, can I get by with the narrow band (about $60) versus the wide band ($200 to $300)? Technical info on the Glowshift narrow band shows it hooks up to the cars 0 to 1.1 volt narrow band o2 sensor. The wideband gauge comes with a separate Bosch sensor to be welded to the exhaust. This sensor is for 0 to 5.0 volts. Most all of this is Greek to me but did want to know what A/F's I'm running, especially if I upgrade, to make sure I don't mess up the engine. Any thoughts comments would be appreciated. Thanks again.

    29. Member vdubxcrew's Avatar
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      11-16-2014 07:57 AM #5769
      Hey guys. Piecing together a charger kit and need to know how long of an oil feed line I will need. I'm thinking 2ft should work or do I need a little longer?
      I do ported/modified VR6 and 2.0 throttle bodies, mirror polish and port intake manifolds. PM me for details.

    30. Member youlostme21's Avatar
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      11-16-2014 01:22 PM #5770
      Running a narrowband will give you very little info. It'll be three steps really, lean, ~14.7, or rich. The wideband would give you real info and can help you know when something isn't right. It all depends how far you want to go. If your staying at 5psi you probably won't have to worry about it.


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    31. Junior Member
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      11-17-2014 11:37 PM #5771
      Looking to improve boost over time so will look at widebands. Going to have to stay with the V-9 for quite awhile. Considering C2 software, 4" MAF and larger injectors through E9 Performance. I understand 9 psi may be possible with 2.4 inch pulley on the V-9. Need to calculate blower speed with this pulley to check RPM.

      Q1:: Anyone know the stock crank pulley diameter for 2.8 24v and gear reduction ratio, if any, inside the V-9?

      I have seen lots of posts regarding belts slipping, especially with the V-1/2/3. I assume more torque is required to spin these larger blowers which may account for what seems like more posts related to slipping.

      Q2: If I don't push the engine past 6,000 RPM will I still get belt slip with the 2.4 inch pulley? Any thoughts on having the pulley coated (Carbonite or something similar)?

    32. Member BOUDAH's Avatar
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      11-17-2014 11:59 PM #5772
      Quote Originally Posted by trh1157 View Post
      Looking to improve boost over time so will look at widebands. Going to have to stay with the V-9 for quite awhile. Considering C2 software, 4" MAF and larger injectors through E9 Performance. I understand 9 psi may be possible with 2.4 inch pulley on the V-9. Need to calculate blower speed with this pulley to check RPM.

      Q1:: Anyone know the stock crank pulley diameter for 2.8 24v and gear reduction ratio, if any, inside the V-9?

      I have seen lots of posts regarding belts slipping, especially with the V-1/2/3. I assume more torque is required to spin these larger blowers which may account for what seems like more posts related to slipping.

      Q2: If I don't push the engine past 6,000 RPM will I still get belt slip with the 2.4 inch pulley? Any thoughts on having the pulley coated (Carbonite or something similar)?

      It takes roughly 40 HP to spin a V9 and Bout 60/70 to spin a V1/2/3. The pulley is 5" something, 6 rib belt. The gear ratio is 3.6:1 for Helical cut gear sets ( which yours is ). You need to get a smaller and stiller belt if you plan to slip less on that pulley. the issue though, its so damn small, its going to slip. You can add traction grooves ( perpendicular/horizontal slits cut into the ribs wither via machining or a Dremel if you are poor ).



      Yes it will wear the belt faster, but there is a price to pay for using a small pulley. E9 is releasing MK4 Cog Pulleys in the future which is another option.

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      11-19-2014 12:58 AM #5773
      Thanks for the responses. In terms of reducing belt slip, do you think there would be a noticeable difference between the carbinite coated pulley and the perpendicular grooved pulley?

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