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    Thread: *The unofficial VR supercharged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera

    1. Member BOUDAH's Avatar
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      BMP .:R32 Supercharged , '13 CC (POS)
      05-22-2014 09:07 PM #5671
      Quote Originally Posted by naysayers View Post
      I am on cogs so that was my first concern. With cogs there is no belt slip that typically allows for some pressure relief during mid to high rpm throttle closed situations such as shifting gears.
      With a serp belt you should not cause any damage to the charger without a high flow diverter or bov but I have noticed that partial throttle acceleration feels better. whenever that dv is closed and the throttle body is closed or only partially open the supercharger is acting like a mechanical brake. It robs you of power when you are not in boost, which is most of the time driving on the street.

      Also, diverter valves designed for turbos have pretty high spring rates. They tend to stay closed until a high vacuum is reached. This is not optimum for a centri-supercharger. The most efficient way is to run a dv or bov that is designed to work with superchargers. These units will be open at all times except when vaccum drops to near 0. My bov is open while cruising and only closes at half throttle or more. its a little loud but you can feel the difference.

      To sum up all that ^ A bov or dv designed for SC's will be easier on the SC, engine, and result is less heat generated.
      There is a vid of my bov here:

      https://www.facebook.com/Supercharge...vations?ref=hl
      Iw as cogged with a Mondo diverter valve. 2" 60 mm in/out. but the BOV is a good option too.
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    2. Member 92Lowraddo's Avatar
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      06-12-2014 02:41 PM #5672
      Finally running in Lug and waiting for a final tune. Seems to run great once its warmed up but the idle is surging during warmup.
      It seems to be caused by the IAC but still trying to figure out how to adjust those settings...

    3. Member naysayers's Avatar
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      2006 tdi beetle stage 3 TDTuning, 90 GTI VR6SC ,09 Civic SI(gone) 2013 GLI
      06-13-2014 01:53 AM #5673
      wow looks good.

    4. Member
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      07-05-2014 08:58 AM #5674
      Quote Originally Posted by 92Lowraddo View Post
      Finally running in Lug and waiting for a final tune. Seems to run great once its warmed up but the idle is surging during warmup.
      It seems to be caused by the IAC but still trying to figure out how to adjust those settings...

      but will cause problems running the valve post MAF. go with a hard spring. otherwise the car will run to rich in idle and after shifting.
      normaly you need to recycle it to the intake. or do you run free squirt?
      Last edited by napkin; 07-05-2014 at 09:10 AM.

    5. Member 92Lowraddo's Avatar
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      07-05-2014 11:06 AM #5675
      It is tuned in pretty well now. There is no maf with lugtronic. You do not want to run a higher spring with a charger and especially with cogs unless you want to risk going through charger seals and belts.

    6. Member BOUDAH's Avatar
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      BMP .:R32 Supercharged , '13 CC (POS)
      07-05-2014 01:03 PM #5676
      Quote Originally Posted by 92Lowraddo View Post
      It is tuned in pretty well now. There is no maf with lugtronic. You do not want to run a higher spring with a charger and especially with cogs unless you want to risk going through charger seals and belts.
      why do u say charger seals?

    7. Member 92Lowraddo's Avatar
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      07-05-2014 01:27 PM #5677
      Quote Originally Posted by BOUDAH View Post
      why do u say charger seals?
      Well I would assume that if the throttle plate is closed at idle or decel, there would be some compressor surge of the bov spring rate was too high... causeing a lot of boost to surge back and ruin bearings, oil seals... with a non cogged setup, the belt can actually slip during these conditions so the stress isnt all on the charger....

    8. Member BOUDAH's Avatar
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      BMP .:R32 Supercharged , '13 CC (POS)
      07-05-2014 01:33 PM #5678
      Quote Originally Posted by 92Lowraddo View Post
      Well I would assume that if the throttle plate is closed at idle or decel, there would be some compressor surge of the bov spring rate was too high... causeing a lot of boost to surge back and ruin bearings, oil seals... with a non cogged setup, the belt can actually slip during these conditions so the stress isnt all on the charger....
      i can see bearings, but seals are rubber and didnt think how these would be "ruined" Maybe Im confused as to what you and Carlicious / Napkin are referring to. If youre using a BOV, why would this create a surge. Im running a Mondo valve ( Diaphram ) from Vortech and although its a Diverter, it can be run atmospheric.

      -Ellery

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      1995 Golf GL 1.8L, 1992 Golf VR6 2.8L
      07-11-2014 08:13 PM #5679
      Hey guys!

      I have installed a VF-Engineering 10-PSI kit with internal oil (No oil from engine)

      My problem is that when for example put the car in fifth and drive at around 1800 rpms, it will start "coughing" and running bad - If I then accelerate, all hell breaks loose in the tachometer, and I have to clutch to stop the madness. A downshift to fourth will do the trick.

      What may this be caused by?

    10. Member
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      1995 Golf GL 1.8L, 1992 Golf VR6 2.8L
      07-12-2014 07:45 AM #5680
      Drove a while today - The engine "cough" / unstabilities happen periodically and seems to happen under 3000 rpms when i use the throttle. Almost as if there insufficient air or fuel


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    11. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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      07-12-2014 10:35 AM #5681
      Simple check;
      See if you have any air leaks, and that any silcone couples aren't compressing on themselves.

      My friend had a long silicone coupler on his boosted car, and under hard throttle it would collapse and the car would struggle.
      Otherwise, make sure you're getting fuel. If you've got an old FPR it may be toast.

      Also, make sure your MAF is facing the right way.

    12. Member
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      07-12-2014 07:24 PM #5682
      FPR is almost new, and MAF is the right way.

      I dont think the MAF is ruined, because I can drive perfectly for 15 minutes, but then there is 15 seconds to a minute of the engine having spasms when I accelerate. I will run a diagnosis tomorrow.

      I appreciate any further input :-/


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    13. Member
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      07-14-2014 09:50 AM #5683
      Just a thought - As you all know, oil is NO good for the air mass sensor. The current setup is a pipe that goes from the crankcase breather, into the lower intake pipe. This means small amounts of oil will go through there, right? And JUST unterneath my lower intake pipe, is the air mass sensor - That might be what is causing my cough?

      Any thoughts on this?


      Also, I did some further investigation. The problems comes about every 10-15 minutes. It seems like tha car goes into "Emergency mode", because if I release the clutch and floor the pedal I dont get above 3000 rpm. If I floor the pedal with the clutch enganged, the car starts shaking like a mechanical bull. All I have to do to "reset" this is to release the clutch, let the RPM settle at idle, and engage the clutch again - Then the engine runs like a purring kitten for another period of time.

      A friend of mine suggests ignition problems - I am using OEM leads and NEW Bosch FC3S plugs - I was recommended to swap them for NGK BKR7E plugs, and I also think about investing in high performance 10mm leads.

      Thoughts? I need all the help I can get

    14. Member
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      07-16-2014 03:16 PM #5684
      Case update!

      00533 - Idle Speed Regulation
      10-10 - Adaptation Limit Not Reached

      This is a fault I am reading from my car.. it was intermittent, which means "old". But it was NOT there last time, so I think this is the thing causing issues for me. How do I solve it?

    15. Member BOUDAH's Avatar
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      BMP .:R32 Supercharged , '13 CC (POS)
      07-16-2014 03:27 PM #5685




      New piping, Will be finishing this up and redoing the rest of the bay soon ish.

      -Ellery
      Instagram- @eboudah

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      07-30-2014 05:31 PM #5686
      Whats everyone running for oil feed and return? Is there a "standard" setup everyone uses? I picked up a v1 vortech kit for my 12v but it did not come with feed or return lines
      Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
      "You see, i'm from Jersey."

      That'll cover about anything.
      VRalliance #6

    17. Member BOUDAH's Avatar
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      BMP .:R32 Supercharged , '13 CC (POS)
      07-31-2014 06:17 PM #5687
      Quote Originally Posted by APCXxstovetopxX View Post
      Whats everyone running for oil feed and return? Is there a "standard" setup everyone uses? I picked up a v1 vortech kit for my 12v but it did not come with feed or return lines
      I run -AN lines.. the Return is a 3/8 NPT so i got a 3/8 to -8AN adapter to a -8an bung welded to the pan and the injector fitting to the blower i got a -4 an adapter and run that to my oil filter housing.
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    18. Member youlostme21's Avatar
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      08-07-2014 08:33 PM #5688
      What boost or power levels are you guys seeing the need for a fuel pump upgrade? I'm running megasquirt and I'm clearly running out of fuel above 6k at 14lbs.... Not sure if my stock pump is just weak or I need to supplement.
      Thanks guys.

      V2 @14-15psi, 450cc inj, 262cams, only 2.25" exhaust
      If only I invested my money into something more practical then a VW....

    19. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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      08-07-2014 08:43 PM #5689
      You're probably going to want to get a fuel pump, and exhaust...

    20. Member youlostme21's Avatar
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      08-07-2014 08:48 PM #5690
      Exhaust is on hold until the motor finds it's new home. The biggest thing holding me back right now is traction. I need a different wheel/tire setup and install my LSD trans I have collecting dust in my garage
      Last edited by youlostme21; 08-07-2014 at 09:10 PM.
      If only I invested my money into something more practical then a VW....

    21. Member turbo mike's Avatar
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      08-08-2014 02:39 PM #5691
      youll need an inline pump at that psi. I ran out of fuel at 12psi. ran a walbro 190lph unit. worked perfect. your exhaust is choking you up. I ran .5 sec quicker in the 1/4 mile by ditching my magnaflow 2.25"system for a 3"system. yes, it made that much of a difference. I tried an lsd, corrado trans, and slicks. car just wouldn't go faster. that exhaust started to leak, spent the cash on a 3", no other changes. .5 quicker. that's saying something
      Mike
      supercharged glx - 12.0 @ 113mph (12psi Vortech V1)
      turbocharged glx - 12.7 @ 108mph (7psi Borg Warner S362 .88 a/r)

    22. Member youlostme21's Avatar
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      08-08-2014 03:52 PM #5692
      Alright sounds good. I plan on going bigger with the exhaust for sure. It's a slow process haha. I wish I lived at home still, I could have all this done years ago
      If only I invested my money into something more practical then a VW....

    23. Member
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      08-12-2014 07:01 PM #5693
      first start! no maf and stock chip since my c2 chip was bad and took out my spare ecu with it

      I love how the whine sounds because of the lumpy cams haha

      Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
      "You see, i'm from Jersey."

      That'll cover about anything.
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    24. Member naysayers's Avatar
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      08-12-2014 07:56 PM #5694
      Sounds awesome

    25. Member Yareka's Avatar
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      08-12-2014 11:29 PM #5695
      which cams?
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    26. Member
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      08-13-2014 06:54 AM #5696
      As far as i can tell they are TT 276 , i had to measure cam lobes and go off idle characteristics since they are not labeled and the previous owner did not know
      Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
      "You see, i'm from Jersey."

      That'll cover about anything.
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    27. Semi-n00b
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      MKV R32
      08-14-2014 01:25 PM #5697
      Hi All. I just picked up a MKIV R32 with the VF Stage 3 kit (dedicated pulley). Any one know the part number or source for the idler pulley on the VF stage 3 kit? I've got a badly worn idler with play, and VF has not responded yet.


    28. Member naysayers's Avatar
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      08-14-2014 02:01 PM #5698
      That pulley looks like it may be user serviceable. Is there a snap ring on the back holding the bearings in? If so you can swap the bearings.

    29. Semi-n00b
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      08-14-2014 02:11 PM #5699
      Yes, there is a snap ring, but that bolt has flanges on both sides. Is it an integrated bearing? The pulley itself has a flat spot and is quite worn, so I thought I'd replace the whole thing if possible. I believe it has nearly 60k miles on it! I'm assuming that the belt was loose a one point and the bearing seized causing the flat spot.

      My pulley has a 2.25" diameter and 1.75" width. An extensive search has led me to a Vortech pulley 4FK016-021, but I can't find any specs on it. It was superseded by part# 4FK116-021, which I do not see specs on either.

    30. Member naysayers's Avatar
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      08-14-2014 02:39 PM #5700
      I have one of those vortech pulleys around, I can take some measurements if you like. I can also rebuild your current pulley and resurface it on my lathe. PM me

    31. Member carsluTT's Avatar
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      08-14-2014 03:01 PM #5701
      i 3rd the suggestion to rebuild it. i had a customers care on the lift needing that part replaced and VF was no help so i ended up taking it apart, replacing the bearings and off the car went good as new.
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      08-18-2014 08:57 PM #5702
      Quote Originally Posted by APCXxstovetopxX View Post
      As far as i can tell they are TT 276 , i had to measure cam lobes and go off idle characteristics since they are not labeled and the previous owner did not know

      Changing my previous statement, after some trouble shooting a large vacuum leak was found, car now idles much smoother and i suspect the cams to be autotech 262


      Secondly i blew up my first trans in less then 30min , the diff pun went through the case in 3rd at full throttle. Replaced the trans and it has been ok for about 150miles so far
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    33. Member
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      08-20-2014 07:24 AM #5703
      Update : trans is still holding up, took it to the track last night on my 185/60/14 street tires to atleast get a rough idea of what it can do , ran a best of 13.3 at 107 spinning all of first , installing a boost gauge and wideband this week and i have to change a couple things like moving the maf away from the charger , reinstalling my iat sensor and i want to regap the plugs

      http://youtu.be/WsldrWnrrFg
      Quote Originally Posted by root beer View Post
      "You see, i'm from Jersey."

      That'll cover about anything.
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    34. Semi-n00b
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      08-20-2014 01:40 PM #5704
      Quote Originally Posted by swiftrabbit View Post
      Hi All. I just picked up a MKIV R32 with the VF Stage 3 kit (dedicated pulley). Any one know the part number or source for the idler pulley on the VF stage 3 kit? I've got a badly worn idler with play, and VF has not responded yet.

      FYI: I was able to find the part number 4FK116-021 (4FK016-021) from Vortech and the help from this board. Due to the flat spot on the pulley itself, I just bought a new one. It is a serviceable part though. Pic below for reference.

      Thanks for all your help!


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