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Thread: *The unofficial VR supercharged reference thread* specs, setups, et cetera

  1. Member mk4vrjtta's Avatar
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    04-04-2012 01:23 PM #4726
    Quote Originally Posted by euroguy666 View Post
    The silicone 90 is against the side of the bay but it doesn't kink it or anything. I don't have fender liners either. You'd really have to put your filter under water to mess anything up. A little spray isn't bad for it. Guys run water meth. Same ****.It will basically atomize before it gets anywhere near your motor.

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    but your MAF sensor will not like it
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  2. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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    04-04-2012 02:19 PM #4727
    Donlt remember who posted this, but you can try it like this:
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  3. 04-04-2012 03:06 PM #4728
    Is VF using same injectors for OBD1 and OBD2? Are they both 30# or 36#?

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    04-04-2012 04:26 PM #4729
    Quote Originally Posted by prometheus_ View Post
    Donlt remember who posted this, but you can try it like this:
    Funny I thought of something like this. Is there such thing as too long of an intake though?

  5. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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    04-04-2012 07:53 PM #4730
    Quote Originally Posted by Banana.Phone View Post
    Funny I thought of something like this. Is there such thing as too long of an intake though?
    Intake, I doubt it.
    Distance of the MAF from motor, possibly.
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  6. Member turbo mike's Avatar
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    04-05-2012 11:07 AM #4731
    Quote Originally Posted by prometheus_ View Post
    I think someone was running an AFC at one point.
    I *may* have been turbo mike, but I'm not sure
    Yep, I ran one. The old c2 software ran very rich on 30# injectors. Grabbed an apexi afc, and leaned it out a bit. It did its job for how cheap it was. I know there's one for sale in a jdm site for $125 right now. If you want the guys email, lmk.

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  7. Member CorradoMagic's Avatar
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    04-05-2012 01:27 PM #4732
    I have a flex tube running along the bottom of my rad support like that. The flex tubing allows me to keep it tucked along the curves of the subframe as tight as possible. I have my MAF place right near the bottom of the front mount, then have more flex tubing to a filter located on the d/s, just behind the bumper. It's not in the engine bay.
    I have noticed that the response is somewhat less 'instant' now that the maf is further(vs right off charger, then filter). But it does run,drive/idle much better.
    Hopefully the A/F is still correct. I'm sure MAF distance from charger, or even filter will have various effects on the true A/F response.
    I'm overdue for another dyno w/ AF
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  8. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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    04-06-2012 02:14 AM #4733
    I made a little bracket to hold my intake, and installed the proper 4bar regulator (my car is early obd1), and I thought I was having a good day.

    Coolant looked low, so I filled it up.

    I pop hood tonight to show buddy the simple bracket thing, notice coolant is stupid low again.
    So, then I start panicking, wondering if I have a ****ed motor etc..

    Put the car on the hoist, and the whole passengers side is drenched in coolant, and low and behold, coolant is coming from the bloody pump

    So tldr, today my water pump decided to give me the big **** you
    Long weekend (easter), everyone closed, and car is off the road

    FORTUNATELY, I never ran out of coolant in the bubble, and I had noticed.
    Also fortunate that pumps aren't really expensive, and way cheaper than doing a HG.
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  9. 04-07-2012 09:09 AM #4734
    Still trying to figure out the boost issue i am having. Went to chris (banana phone) shop yesterday to take care of a few things. My bracket has two holes for idler pulleys, and there is only one idler pulley installed on the back side of the bracket closer to the firewall, but there is another hole thats tapped at the front of the bracket. You can tell there was an idler pulley installed at some point and not sure if it fell off or what, but there isnt one there now. Having a dual idler pulley setup would help out with belt slippage right?

    I have a vortech v2 setup
    2.87" pulley with a/c

    The belt installed is a 60"

    Not sure if i need a smaller belt or what, but when we reved the engine you could hear belt slippage.

    Tell me why i am only seeing 5psi, and if i should be ordering this idler pulley from summit racing?

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VO...n/?prefilter=1

  10. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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    04-07-2012 09:49 AM #4735
    It doesn't matter how many idlers you have, as long as you have the correct belt length.
    The idlers are only there to help get more belt surface area onto the supercharger pulley.

    But, if you're looking for a replacement (or additional) pulley, you can use the "Upper Timing Belt Idler Roller" from a MK4 1.8t (Part # 058 109 244).
    Last edited by prometheus_; 04-07-2012 at 10:03 AM.
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  11. 04-07-2012 10:08 AM #4736
    Quote Originally Posted by prometheus_ View Post
    It doesn't matter how many idlers you have, as long as you have the correct belt length.
    The idlers are only there to help get more belt surface area onto the supercharger pulley.

    But, if you're looking for a replacement (or additional) pulley, you can use the "Upper Timing Belt Idler Roller" from a MK4 1.8t (Part # 058 109 244).
    I wish I could know what size belt I need though. The tension bolt on the bracket is pretty tight and I wonder if I should order a shorter belt to be able to adjust that tension bolt and see if I can find more boost

  12. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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    04-07-2012 10:32 AM #4737
    Get something to measure (like string)
    Have it setup for zero tension and measure that ****.

    Then all you have to do is order a belt that's a little bit longer.
    IE: I measured 57.75" @ the least possible amount of tension, and ordered a 58-3/8" belt from NAPA

    Since you measured with zero tension, you'll have plenty of adjustment, and can tighten the adjusting bolt a whole lot.
    I ended up using a slightly longer adjustment bolt just so I could tighten it a bit more if I had to (I didn't).
    Last edited by prometheus_; 04-07-2012 at 10:36 AM.
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    04-07-2012 11:03 AM #4738
    The idler on the rear that is there is the 1.8T one. He's missing the front one. The belt tension is all the way because the other idler is missing. I'm pretty sure if the other idlers was there it would take up the rest of the tension. Doesn't hurt having more contact area too. I think it's worth the $45 dollar gamble. It's not like it's a waste of money, right?!


    You can see there WAS an idler on the upper hole. No doubt in my mind explains the reason for the belt being all the way adjusted. I think the front idler would do more good than the rear idler anyways.
    Last edited by Banana.Phone; 04-07-2012 at 11:05 AM.

  14. 04-07-2012 05:29 PM #4739
    Thanks for posting that pic Chris. Its weird. As soon as I get to 4000rpm the acceleration breaks up. I don't hear the belt slipping but it feels like it starts to accelerate like a stock vr. Feeling the tension on the belt feels pretty tight but I have no clue how much play there should be. Are you guys running the idler pulley on the front or rear? Any dual idler setups? Benefits of dual vs single?

  15. Member websaabn's Avatar
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    04-07-2012 07:07 PM #4740
    I have a dual idler setup, there is a bigger idler pulley (2 inch ish)where that hole is on my setup
    The road to riches is paved with Jolly Ranchers!

  16. Member Rheinland Technik's Avatar
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    04-07-2012 07:17 PM #4741
    Also, with the Vortech idler, there are two bushings that will be needed in order for it to mound correctly. I may have an extra set.

  17. 04-07-2012 08:01 PM #4742
    I have seen some using the vortech idler pulley but have hear the bearings are not the best in them. That's why some guys are running tdi or 1.8t pulleys

  18. Member Rheinland Technik's Avatar
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    04-07-2012 08:19 PM #4743
    The TDI or 1.8T pulley is for dual idler and isn't intended for the replacement of the Vortech pulley. Use of a 16V timing belt tensioner pulley would make sense to replace the Vortech piece, though I haven't had any issues with the Vortech piece and I have been running them for all of my builds.

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    04-07-2012 10:48 PM #4744






    I don't have very good pics but I actually cut out my rad support and used 3" pipe to support the radiator and moved the maf over by the battery, everything fits 100% like stock including the bumper headlights and ac dryer and lines. I highly suggest doing this if your going to daily your car and don't want to worry about water.
    VRSociety Member #127

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    04-08-2012 05:36 PM #4745
    That's awesome! I would probably leave my MAF in the passenger side though. I'd like to see some pics with the rad support on. Looks good though, nice and safe location for the filter.

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    04-08-2012 07:20 PM #4746
    I had the maf down at the first bend on the passenger side and I had a lot of bucking surging issues, I think due to the 3.5" to 3" to 4" at the maf and 3" at the filter, now that It goes 3.5" to 3" all the way to the drivers side and 4" at the filter it runs 100% with no idle/ light throttle bucking. Those are the only pics I took I may pull the bumper back off soon to try and get my dual idler setup done and I'll try to take some more then.
    VRSociety Member #127

  22. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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    04-08-2012 08:12 PM #4747
    Well, the further the MAF is from the TB, the more trouble you're going to get.
    I mean, mine isn't even that far, but anything supercharged is going to have the MAF at least triple the distance from oem placement.

    I'm considering to get a lightweight flywheel & pulleys just so I can have some super quick throttle response again like an N/A car

    In other news, I extended my intake piping to go all the way around the motor, so the intake is now where the battery used to be. Will post pics tomorrow
    Last edited by prometheus_; 04-08-2012 at 08:17 PM.
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  23. Member youlostme21's Avatar
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    04-08-2012 08:59 PM #4748
    Quote Originally Posted by prometheus_ View Post
    Well, the further the MAF is from the TB, the more trouble you're going to get.
    Why is that? You're still measuring the same amount amount of air displaced regardless of where in the intake stream it is.

    I do like the solid pipe setup you have there. My setup is the one posted before yours with the rubber ducting. It will hopefully be getting a redesign soon. A lot of stuff that I rushed in the fall needs to be cleaned up and sorted out properly.
    If only I invested my money into something more practical then a VW....

  24. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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    04-08-2012 09:08 PM #4749
    IIRC it may have something to do with turbulence (being near a bend) and/or the closer it being to the TB the quicker it can sense changes in the airflow.

    Although I could just be talking out of my ass on this matter
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  25. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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    04-10-2012 01:27 AM #4750
    Fixed my water pump, and changed up my intake





    And here are some ripping clips:




    Forgive the shaky cam & sloppy shifting, trying to focus on the road
    I'd just put it all back together, and like a fool didn't mark my adjuster, so I'm only hitting 10psi
    Last edited by prometheus_; 04-10-2012 at 03:01 AM.
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  26. Member websaabn's Avatar
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    04-10-2012 01:40 AM #4751
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cjlz7...e_gdata_player

    Here is incar of the cabriolet on 13 psi, gears 2-5, filmed on a closed corse.
    Last edited by websaabn; 04-10-2012 at 01:46 AM.
    The road to riches is paved with Jolly Ranchers!

  27. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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    04-10-2012 07:58 PM #4752
    Nice!
    What's you're pulley setup like in order to hit 13psi?
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  28. Member websaabn's Avatar
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    04-10-2012 09:51 PM #4753
    2.87 thats been sandblasted and had grooves cut in it. And c2 dual idler
    The road to riches is paved with Jolly Ranchers!

  29. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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    04-10-2012 10:11 PM #4754
    Quote Originally Posted by websaabn View Post
    2.87 thats been sandblasted and had grooves cut in it. And c2 dual idler
    What'd you use to cut the grooves, basic dremel?
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  30. Member websaabn's Avatar
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    04-10-2012 10:34 PM #4755
    Quote Originally Posted by prometheus_ View Post
    What'd you use to cut the grooves, basic dremel?
    i used pneumatic grinder with a small cutting wheel, but a dremel will work fine
    The road to riches is paved with Jolly Ranchers!

  31. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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    04-11-2012 12:13 AM #4756
    In that case, guess what I'm doing tomorrow
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  32. Member websaabn's Avatar
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    04-11-2012 12:17 AM #4757
    Yea i cut slits roughly every 1/2 inch all the way around... Didnt care if its pretty, just has to work
    The road to riches is paved with Jolly Ranchers!

  33. Member prometheus_'s Avatar
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    04-11-2012 12:26 AM #4758
    Quote Originally Posted by websaabn View Post
    Yea i cut slits roughly every 1/2 inch all the way around... Didnt care if its pretty, just has to work
    Sounds good to me
    Hopefully the weather holds out long enough for me to try it (assuming I still have some cutoff wheels).

    I've been burning through gas like nobodies business, fiddling and testing
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  34. 04-11-2012 01:44 AM #4759
    Watching these vids just got me motivated again!

    I like your new intake setup "prometheus".

    Oh & that mk1vr6sc cabby is a beast. I just watched & downloaded the in-car camera vid you posted up a while back.

  35. Member websaabn's Avatar
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    04-11-2012 02:00 AM #4760
    Quote Originally Posted by BlackSwan View Post
    Watching these vids just got me motivated again!

    I like your new intake setup "prometheus".

    Oh & that mk1vr6sc cabby is a beast. I just watched & downloaded the in-car camera vid you posted up a while back.
    Thanks, it needs more but i got to get the house done first.
    Last edited by websaabn; 04-11-2012 at 02:06 AM.
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