Just to clarify - you say tie-rod in the text, but the red arrow points to the swaybar link? Can you do this without disconnecting the tie-rod?
So I looked around on this sight i saw that the DIY had you remove half of the front wheel assembly to get your axle out. not need for the passanger side and then you don't have to get an alinement done.
Here you go.
So, this was done on a 1.8T 2002 auto Jetta. use jack stands, e-brake and if you kill yourslef while doing this its not my fault!
In the first photo you can see how the the axle started to leek.
In addition I have pointed out the 6 bolts that you will have to remove.
1. Take the wheel off.
2. Remove the axle nut. its on there good so ether get a breaker bar or call your fat friend up to help (30mm 12 point socket)...
3. remove the shield (there are three bolts use a 6mm alen wrench)
4. Remove the 6 bolts from the axle (12mm triple square)
Here is a photo of what it looks like with the shield and axle out of there.
5. try your best to move the axle above the trany.
6. Where you removed the axle bolt, use a hammer and chisel and push the axle out of the wheel hub. mine was really easy to slide out. don't damage the thing...
7. Remove the swaybar bolt. this will give you more room to swing the axel out of there. In this photo you can see where I stuck the screw driver to lock the axel when removing the triple square bolts.
8. take axle to shop for refurb, 30 minutes later wa-la! nice clean fixed axle.
9.) repeat steps in reverse.
Some usefull info.
the triple square bolts are on at 50ftlbs
tie Rod 33ftlbs
axle bolt on there without stipping it out ftlbs (I'm not sure on the write up but it was something like 145lbs then tighten 1/4 turn, turn hub 180 degrees tighten an additional blablabla...
hope this helps.
Modified by Skimann20 at 11:11 PM 5-6-2008
I'm glad that this was posted because I probably wouldn't have stopped to think about the fact that you do NOT have to disconnect everything on the passenger side.
Only thing I would add is that you may have to put a jack under the control arm when taking off (and putting back on) that sway bar bolt.
It is under tension from the suspension, so if you don't jack the control arm up the bolt will not be level when you try to take it out. You don't want to strip and mess up the bolt.
I know this thread is old but i just wanted to clarify the torque specs for the axle nut. The way it is done is you tighten it to 221ft lbs of torque. This amount of torque is just so that the axle can fully seat in the hub. The nut is not left at 221ft lbs. After you tighten to 221 ft lbs, you have to loosen the nut one full turn and then torque to 37ft lbs plus 30 degrees. Hope this helps.
Quote, originally posted by 01gtiaww » I know this thread is old but i just wanted to clarify the torque specs for the axle nut. The way it is done is you tighten it to 221ft lbs of torque. This amount of torque is just so that the axle can fully seat in the hub. The nut is not left at 221ft lbs. After you tighten to 221 ft lbs, you have to loosen the nut one full turn and then torque to 37ft lbs plus 30 degrees. Hope this helps.
or use an impact gun
hopefully i can get a quick answer. i have it all done but removing the axle from the hub. I can seem to get it out. i have a new axle so i just have to get it out of the hub.
what am i suppose to hit with the hammer and chisel? the part where the axle nut was on? i have tried that and it doesnt budge.
i said the hell with it and went and bought an air hammer. i didnt know how much easier it was going to be.
Anyone attemtping this i would recomend it. it cost me 14 at National auto for a cheap one that worked just fine
just installed my axle today using this wright up. very helpful. but if you use a impact gun to take the strut off after you remove the sway bar bolt it makes things wayyyy easier. its the way to go. it will drop the A arm way down and gives you a heck of alot of room.
Quote, originally posted by mk2rado » just installed my axle today using this wright up. very helpful. but if you use a impact gun to take the strut off after you remove the sway bar bolt it makes things wayyyy easier. its the way to go. it will drop the A arm way down and gives you a heck of alot of room.
yeah that works too...be careful though as you lower everything, not to tear the big round bushing at the back of the A arm...ive seen that happen with these things!
as stated above I am aware this is an old thread but can anyone answer this question: I bought my axle through napa and it came with a little bottle of grease, I popped the cap off the inner side of the axle and put a dollop on each one of the ball bearings, lightly packed some around the surface of the inner side and then put a couple dollops on the engine itself. Does anyone know if I should have put more grease on it or should I be fine? it did have a tiny bit of grease showing already when I took it out of the box.
GSE - Granite State European
2.0 club/8v Society #78
This will be the first time that I have changed out a CV half shaft that wasn't completely sealed at the transmission end. My replacement axles came today, and when I opened the drivers sides box the ball bearings for the transmission end were rolling around in the box. Is this normal? Also as I suppose to completely pack the transmission end full of the grease that is provided? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated!
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I'm working on this right now, but it seems like the axle doesn't want to come out of the hub. It seems like it isn't moving at all when i hit it with my hammer.
should i just keep hitting it with my 4lb until it moves? or am i doing something wrong?
Yes... this is old. I know.
Why the hell would they supply a standard 30mm six sided nut for the axle stub compared to the twelve sided 30mm nut that came with the car? Retarded. I bought the 'special' socket to take it off. I want the special socket to put it back on! UGH
Old or not, I am so grateful for these threads and the forum. I swear it has saved me so much headache and repair costs by learning problems with my car and how to repair them myself. I would much rather spend the money on upgrading my vehicle and buying good parts knowing I don't have to pay a shop.
I did everything the thread said but for some reason, I the mating part into the transmission won't engage, the transmission part turns but I here the grinding were the bearings are not engaging and turning the wheel. Car won't move, (02 Jetta 2.0) what did I do wrong. I bought the part from Napa new. of course the bearings and stuff were loose along with the top piece that holds the bearings onto the shaft.
There are two kinds of axles, but the lengths are identical.
One that fits the 100mm flanges found on the TDI's and the 2.0s.
The other fits the 108mm flanges found on the VR6/1.8T cars...
Perhaps the shop that rebuilt that axle did a ****ty job?
Last edited by MXTHOR3; 09-15-2011 at 03:35 PM.
I would also like to add That I stuck a screw driver In the caliper slot into my rotor thing I could break the axle nut loose, Ended up shearing off the screw that holds my rotor on, so my advise is to undo the cv axle from the stub shaft then put your wheel back on and lower the vehicle in or to keep everything still, I would recommend doing this when torquing the nut on after you finish. (note: AT NO POINT IN TIME SHOULD YOU EVER REST THE CAR ON THE GROUND WITH OUT THE AXLE IN THE SPINDLE YOUR BEARINGS CANNOT HANDLE THE WEIGHT ALONE, MERELY BREAK YOUR NUT LOOSE AND THEN RAISE THE CAR BACK UP.
Another correction here. This is based from the Bentley manual. Make sure the wheel is on and lug nuts are tight.
Tighten the 12 point nut to 195 ft/lbs
Loosen the nut for 180 degrees
roll the wheel 180 degrees
Tighten to 37 ft/lbs - mark the nut/center so you know when to stop tightening for 60 degrees.
Tighten again to another 60 degrees (this is two points of the nut)