GREAT write up!
#1
Coming to a close on my project after 6 mo. of work. Engine has been rebuild for a rod install, T3/T4 50 Trim, ALL custom lines, only the lower radiator hose is factory, "cleaned" or "shaved" engine bay, ect. I was thinking about it and there is a build list for BT's, but no list of things to check and verify before you close your eyes, turn the key, and wait for the sweet sweet music. Here is a start for the list, post up and I will add it if it is reasonable and fits the request.1. Check ALL fluid levels
- Oil
- Coolant
- Power Steering
- Brake Fluid
- Fuel2. Trace and verify connection on ALL:
- Oil lines
- Coolant lines
- Power Steering lines
- Brake and Clutch lines
- Fuel lines3. Confirm 12v+ from Battery
4. Remove fuel injector fuse #32 and crank car for 10-15 seconds to prime the turbo and circulate engine oil. Turning the key to on will also prime the fuel system. If you have a gauge check that as well before starting to verify correct fuel pressure and a leak free system.
5. Replace fuse, cross fingers and turn the key
6. Keep your eyes GLUED on the oil light, or oil pressure gauge for pressure and verify desired pressure is obtained.
7. Check for leaks, look EVERYWHERE! Always a good idea to shut the car off and look everything over. Check for any leaks on all mating surfaces, fittings, ect. Also an excellent time to double check fluid levels.
8. Wipe sweat from forehead, sigh in relief and be glad you had a check list to follow.
PLEASE, add to this, I think it can be a valuable resource for people at 3:00 in the AM trying to get to an event the next day. Just a constant when you are bleary eyed, exhausted, and not thinking as clearly as you should be when you finally "FIRE IT UP".
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#2
GREAT write up!
#3
I cannot even begin to try and describe how nervous I was when starting my car for the first time after ripping her down and putting her back together...#8 is def a must!!!Great list
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#4
Quote, originally posted by NOLA_VDubber » I cannot even begin to try and describe how nervous I was when starting my car for the first time after ripping her down and putting her back together...#8 is def a must!!! Great list
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I get to fire mine up this weekend, nervous doesn't even come close. The only plumbing in the car that is stock is the lower radiator hose, brake and clutch lines, and about 2-3ft of fuel lines. Everything else has been fabricated from stainless braided lines, hose ends, and fittings from Jegs/Summit.
#5
Quote, originally posted by NOLA_VDubber » I cannot even begin to try and describe how nervous I was when starting my car for the first time after ripping her down and putting her back together...#8 is def a must!!! Great list
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When I did a complete rewire of the harness for standalone... I had a fire extinguisher in hand and 3 voltmeters rigged up to check for loads, extra fuses inline for everything, ears were on full alert, nose was sampling the air 200 times a second. Nothing popped or blew up, but I was prepped.
#6
Glad I am not the only one who felt this way![]()
#7
at the end i'd note to idle it for a heatcycle.
#8
Quote, originally posted by igotaprestent4u » at the end i'd note to idle it for a heatcycle. I thought about that, but different people have their own ways of breaking in the engine, I didn't want to change the focus of the thread.
#9
At least let it get up to temp and maybe let the radiator fans get a chance to turn on....
#10
Great list. Please add to FAQ (Hybrid/Swap?) list.![]()
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#11
couple things to add to the original post:x. Recheck engine timing. This was probably done during the build (if motor was out), but it takes all of 2 minutes to do. Line up the cam sprocket with the notch on the valve cover. Check position of the flywheel. Turn motor over by hand slowly, being sure to stop the cam sprocket at the notch 360° from your starting point and making sure the flywheel comes back to the timing mark. A hidden item in this is...let's make sure you don't have any resistance at any point in the cycle. Better to find out by hand. Also line up the exhaust cam marking with the arrow on the last cam cap, and count 16 chain links from that arrow to the intake cam mark.
#12
Quote, originally posted by Rogue Status » I thought about that, but different people have their own ways of breaking in the engine, I didn't want to change the focus of the thread.
i think what he meant was for re-tightening bolts and/or studs (turbo to mani bolts or mani to head bolts etc).
#13
Quote, originally posted by SAVwKO » Also line up the exhaust cam marking with the arrow on the last cam cap, and count 16 chain links from that arrow to the intake cam mark. I like this tip....
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