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    Thread: GTI 1.8t Engine Speed Sensor ("impulse sender") DIY w/ pics

    1. 05-17-2008 12:26 PM #1
      First of all, it's not my fault if you are a dumb@55 and end up breaking your car. That said: THIS IS EXTREMELY EASY. Do not pay someone to do this for you and certainly DO NOT take your car to the dealer for this. It is simple- don't let anyone tell you otherwise.
      Problem diagnosis: Car MAY not be starting, but cranking.
      Car randomly dies, without sputtering or any other pre-warning. (It will literally just shut off as if you turned the ignition off...) Car sometimes "stumbles" while driving. Intake mani. may seem hotter than normal, although there is no change on the in-car temp. gauge. In the early stages of engine speed sensor failure, you may notice that the car becomes hard to cold start, as if you had a dying battery... but the lights aren't dim, etc.
      If your car is doing this, first of all, it's time for a VAG-COM: Mine came out as follows:
      Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.LBL
      Part No: 06A 906 032 ML
      Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
      Coding: 07510
      Shop #: WSC 12600
      9BWDE61J024068765 VWZ7Z0B4879355
      9 Faults Found:
      16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal
      P0322 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
      16705 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Implausible Signal
      P0321 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
      16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
      P0300 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
      16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected
      P0303 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
      16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected
      P0302 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
      16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
      P0011 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
      16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
      P0102 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
      16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
      P0304 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
      16685 - Cylinder 1: Misfire Detected
      P0301 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
      Readiness: 0000 0000
      Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ASR.LBL
      Part No: 1C0 907 379 K
      Component: ASR FRONT MK60 0103
      Coding: 0021505
      Shop #: WSC 00000
      2 Faults Found:
      01314 - Engine Control Module
      013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent
      00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30
      008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

      Notice all of the "Engine Speed Sensor" fault codes... this is what leads us to believe it's the speed sensor. Please note- your fault codes may and very probably will come out different- but if you are noticing codes about the engine speed sensor, and the diagnostic issues posted above, you are probably having this issue.
      Now on to how to fix it, where it is, etc.
      First off, the new part you will need is (obviously) an engine speed sensor. VW calls this the "impulse sender." The part number is 06A906433L. It will run you about 125 dollars at the stealership. Here is a picture of it:
      You will also need either a 5 mm allen wrench or a 10mm socket, driver, and extension. I used the 5mm allen wrench and it worked just fine, although to break the bolt holding the sensor in loose (there's only one), I had to use a pliers on the allen key for some more tq. After it broke loose, I was able to unscrew it all the rest of the way by hand. You may also want a LONG slotted (flat-head) screwdriver to help get the old sensor out.
      The first step is finding the sensor: It is located ON the engine block, right near the oil filter. If you can't find the oil filter, please sell your car right now.
      Anyway, the easiest way to locate the sensor and change it out is jack the car up, put it on jackstands for safety, and crawl under it. Undo the belly-cover (plastic engine cover held on by 4 torx screws.) Once this is accomplished, look up at the engine. Locate the oil filter, and look for a GRAY connector. It's easy to spot. If you don't know what color gray is, look at the above picture of the new sensor. Now that you've found the connection, trace the wire down the block to the old sensor, and you'll see this:

      Note the oil filter in close proximity. The sensor connection is a little above it, the actual sensor (as you can see) is a little below it. That round black plastic piece with a wire coming out is the sensor.
      Now that you've located the sensor, feel at the top of it, flush with the block. You will now feel dirt, grime, and a 5mm allen bolt I.D. w/ a 10mm hex O.D. Now that you found the "magic hole;" stick in your "magic stick" (5mm allen key) and it will look like this:

      *NOTE ALLEN KEY STICKING OUT NEXT TO OIL FILTER. YOU JUST PUT IT THERE*
      Now that you have the key in the bolt, you must unscrew it. Stick your hand up there, and grab the allen key. Turn it loose, and your hand will be like this:

      After that, you need to pull the sensor out. Some people say wiggle it and pull, and it will come out. I tried this, and it didn't come out, so I grabbed the beforementioned screwdriver to "negotiate" with it. After you have it out of the block, it will hang by the wire going to the gray connector. You should see this:

      Note the red ring: that's the part of the sensor that was IN the block, that red ring is the o-ring that goes around the sensor. Don't worry about this o-ring, the new part comes with a new one already installed. (for 130ish dollars, it better be. lol.)
      Now you need to reach up, and grab the gray connector. It is in a metal bracket. Simply pull outward, towards the front of the car (towards your front bumper, not your rear bumper.) and it will come loose from the metal bracket. Now you need to detach the two wires held together by the connector. This is easy. The connector has a little "slot" in it. Just like the connectors used on your MAF and coilpack, this is a four pin connector that will come out once you push the little slot out. If you can't get it with your finger, CAREFULLY use a stubby slotted screwdriver. Place the head in the slot, and turn the screwdriver clockwise or counterclockwise until you feel or hear it go forward. Once that's done, simply pull the two ends of the connector apart, and that's it, the old sensors out. Like I said, really easy.
      Sorry I don't have any pictures of this, I tried to get some but they didn't come out good and you couldn't see anything.
      Now take your new sensor, slide the connectors back together where the old one was (all you do is slide them together. Once it clicks, it's in good.) Now take the new sensor, and put it right back in the hole the old one came out of. It will slide in real easy. The hole is easy to find again. Again, sorry I don't have pics.
      Once you've slid it in, re-thread that 5mm allen bolt and tighten it up. I don't have the TQ settings, and I'm not too sure how important they are since this bolt is only there to hold the sensor in. I just tightened it up till it was tight. I didn't wrench on it or anything, just till it stopped going in and was tight.
      Once this is done, take the connector and slide it back into the metal bracket. That's it, you're done.
      Total time was probably 10-15 minutes + jack time. It's so easy, and the dealer will try to charge you 100-200 in labor.
      I hope this was helpful lol.


    2. Member gunmetalgreen's Avatar
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      05-17-2008 12:29 PM #2
      good wright up, not so good pictures

    3. 05-17-2008 12:30 PM #3
      thanks. It was hard to get any good pics at all because of the lighting and location, but those came out the best and I think they at least give a general idea of what you gotta do, just so you're not flying completely blind.

    4. Member gunmetalgreen's Avatar
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      05-17-2008 12:31 PM #4
      Quote, originally posted by mccula »
      thanks. It was hard to get any good pics at all because of the lighting and location, but those came out the best and I think they at least give a general idea of what you gotta do, just so you're not flying completely blind.

      yeah i'm guessing you had to take the pictures yourself? having a buddy is great so you can really point out what is up good job though

    5. 05-17-2008 12:33 PM #5
      yeah I did. PITA to stop and take pics too, but the vortex has helped me so I try and do DIYs as often as I can to help the vortex.

    6. 10-03-2008 12:09 PM #6
      Helppppp me mane I got a 337 also 90k on it!! I have replace mav, intake hose, coil on plugs, battery, air filter, and alternator ...When I drive down the road recently the car lights started to dim.. abs light came on and off then.. died like someone cut off ignition ...tried to start and it was like battery had not enough to crank car over could this be speed sensor...All parts i just replaced I did this week .....help 337 is down!!!

    7. 12-08-2008 12:13 PM #7
      mccula,
      I have read your post and it is extremely helpful for changing the engine speed sensor. However, I do have a quick question. I am experiencing the same kinds of issues on a VW Polo GTi but when I phoned VW to order the part they say that there are 2 sensors, one is on the crankshaft and the other on the cam shaft. I quoted the VW part number that you specified but they said that the part number wasn't for my car. I scanned your post but can't see it mention whether the sensor is on the cam shaft or the crankshaft.
      Any help gratefully received.
      Thanks
      Kev

    8. 01-28-2009 01:38 PM #8
      i wanna say crankshaft because of the sensors location, but i can't honestly remember.

    9. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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      01-28-2009 01:45 PM #9
      Thanks for this. It could be very helpful.
      To improve the photos: Does your camera have a macro (for good focus on closeups) setting?
      Bob Lee
      2002 GTI 1.8t 249,000+ miles
      VCDS 14.10.2 with KEY-USB interface

    10. 01-28-2009 10:49 PM #10
      hey i think this maybe the same problem ive been having. with my gti whenever i put gas it doesnt want to start i have to crank it a few time and give it gas for a bit. if i dont then it starts to idle rough until it turns off. after reving in neutral for a lil while it will idle normal and i can drive. sometime even if i havent pumped gas it will do it tho. car is running in limp mode. dont have a vag com either
      is this the fix or if not does anyone know? any help appreciated

    11. 01-29-2009 06:51 PM #11
      bump for some help. ran a search and a ish load of things come up for rough ilde but couldnt find anything about when pumping gas.

    12. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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      01-29-2009 07:53 PM #12
      Do you know someone who has a vag-com?
      If not, you might be able to find someone in the vag-com forum (in the "post your location" thread) or in one of the regional forums.
      Bob Lee
      2002 GTI 1.8t 249,000+ miles
      VCDS 14.10.2 with KEY-USB interface

    13. 01-29-2009 08:55 PM #13
      gonna check in the orlando thread now. i took it to the dealer ship. they said emissions, list of parts was; diverter valve, maf sensor, gas cap, and another sensor i never heard of.
      everything is stock on my car so i dont see how it could be diverter valve, and the cord that attaches the gas cap to the car broke so i think thats why they wanted to replace that lol

    14. 01-29-2009 11:06 PM #14
      dude, great job on this dIY, mystery finally solved for my gti. the car would stall as if I am a bad driveer .

    15. 03-17-2009 01:18 PM #15
      Thanks man.. saved my ass.. great writeup

    16. 04-13-2009 06:46 PM #16
      As an FYI: The AWD version of this job is MUCH HARDER... I had recently done it on an AWP and it was a piece of cake.. just like this writeup...
      but the AWD connector is under the manifold... still doable but just keep in mind it'll take longer... plus the damn thing didn't want to come out of the block.. it took me an hour to get it out... what a PITA... and lo and behold the brittle crap ass dipstick broke.. go figure... it's always something.

    17. 07-11-2009 01:42 PM #17
      I'd like to thank you for reposting this DIY... my 20AE has been misbehaving for the last 100 miles or so. Low boost at first, stuttering under light acceleration, and tons of whiteish blue smoke at odd times during heavier load. No CEL until the other day, ran the codes and got similar results to the faults listed. Bought the impulse sender from the stealer and replaced it today... she runs good as new!
      One note: at several times this guide says "simply" do xyz, but the location of the sensor is actually quite awkward unless you have tiny hands and wrists. It is easy to locate the sensor but unplugging and re-plugging is extremely difficult and more time consuming than it should be. I'm mechanically inclined and this process took me an hour and a half. All in all I'd rate this as a "1 out of 5" on a technical difficulty scale and "3 out of 5" on an operational difficulty scale. If the screws and parts and connections were sitting in your lap the process would take 30 seconds!


      Modified by StillStock at 1:45 PM 7-11-2009

    18. Member phatKat's Avatar
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      07-11-2009 05:12 PM #18
      having not done this, it almost looks like a job to do during an oil change if you can manage it. the filter looks to take up a bit of needed real estate.

    19. 07-11-2009 07:57 PM #19
      The pictures make it look that way but its the other pipes and hoses and crap in the way that causes most of the grief. There really is nothing quite like manipulating stiff wires and trying to plug the connectors together with fingertips because you can't get your thumbs in there to help out lol.

    20. 03-20-2010 12:41 PM #20
      great diy. i need to do this. it the dealer the only place to buy the part?

    21. Member Jay-Bee's Avatar
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      03-20-2010 01:23 PM #21
      I just did the same thing a couple weeks ago for the 2.0s
      Same sensor, same symptoms.
      Good write-up.
      Mine is here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4791388
      Quote Originally Posted by Fritz27 View Post
      I read this in Samuel L. Jackson's voice to make it more interesting. That's all I got.
      2002 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro 5MT [Current]
      2005 VW Passat Wagon 1.8T 4Motion 5MT [Sold]
      2007 A4 Avant 2.0T Q/6MT [Sold]
      2000 VW Golf 2.0 5MT [Sold]

    22. 03-20-2010 05:47 PM #22
      do knoe if the sensors arethe same for the 2.0 and awp 1.8t?

    23. Member Jay-Bee's Avatar
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      03-20-2010 06:52 PM #23
      Quote, originally posted by DASvolkswagen »
      do knoe if the sensors arethe same for the 2.0 and awp 1.8t?

      Quote, originally posted by Jay-Bee »
      I just did the same thing a couple weeks ago for the 2.0s
      Same sensor, same symptoms.
      Good write-up.
      Mine is here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4791388


      EDIT: Sorry jumped too quick there, SAME sensor, different P/N as the wire is longer for the 2.0, get the part number from my thread.


      Modified by Jay-Bee at 6:53 PM 3-20-2010
      Quote Originally Posted by Fritz27 View Post
      I read this in Samuel L. Jackson's voice to make it more interesting. That's all I got.
      2002 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro 5MT [Current]
      2005 VW Passat Wagon 1.8T 4Motion 5MT [Sold]
      2007 A4 Avant 2.0T Q/6MT [Sold]
      2000 VW Golf 2.0 5MT [Sold]

    24. 03-22-2010 10:08 AM #24
      Quote, originally posted by Jay-Bee »
      EDIT: Sorry jumped too quick there, SAME sensor, different P/N as the wire is longer for the 2.0, get the part number from my thread.
      Modified by Jay-Bee at 6:53 PM 3-20-2010

      Actually, the P/N that ends with L (short cable) now refers to the C P/N at the dealer.

    25. 04-03-2010 11:53 AM #25
      great DIY. i did this today. it literaly took me 10 minutes to do. the dealership wanted $550. those scumbags

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