Since most people who are upgrading 1.8t's these days haven't built motors before, I thought I'd throw together some pics of how to install aftermarket rods and new OEM rings on OEM pistons. If you are uncomfortable with anything contained in this post, pay to have professionals do the work, but most people's hesitance to get in there and do the upgrades themselves just stems from a lack of experience, so hopefully these pics will help some of you out.
First off, this covers installing brand new OEM rings on OEM pistons. I do not file OEM rings, simply install and drop in, but technically you should measure ring gap and adjust accordingly. Secondly, this install covers a freshly honed block. I would NOT reuse OEM rings or install new rings in a block that hasn't been freshly honed. Third, this install does not cover measuring rod bearing tolerances, and this should be done accordingly as well. This is mainly to introduce people to the internals of the 1.8t so you know what you're looking at when you get in there, but in reality this is very general info that applies to all engines. On to the pics.
Here is the aftermarket rod, a 19mm IE rod in this case.
Here is the used OEM pistons, 19mm wrist pin version, still attached to the OEM rod. Note the retaining clip inside the bore for the wrist pin.
This is my tool of choice to remove the wrist pin clip. BE CAREFUL as the wrist pin clip is essentially a spring and will FLY OFF INTO WHO KNOWS WHERE upon removal. I always place the tool in position, then cover the piston with a rag, then apply pressure, so the pin will be trapped in the rag when it shoots out of place.
Said wrist pin clip removed. DO NOT LOSE.
Wrist pin clip removed. Scratches on this area of the piston don't really matter, obvoiusly don't go nuts.
Wrist pin being removed.
Piston and pin seperated. Marks on the pin here are varnish, the motor that these pieces came from ran on non synthetic oil for its life, which will leave the brown stain of varnish everywhere. Motors that run synthetic don't do this.
Relube your wrist pin, insert, and prepare for rod install.
A 10mm socket with a tap from a rubber mallet will force in a stubborn pin (tolerances are tight here).
A little lube preparing for wrist pin clip reinsertion.
Inserting the wrist pin clip can be tricky. Again, cover the clip with a rag so as not to lose it, use force to "compress" the clip so it'll pop into its groove. Once you get the hang of it, it's really simple to do, but the first one will be a PITA if you've never done this before.
Clip in its new home.
Half of the rod and piston assembled.
This is the OEM oil scraper ring set, three pieces.
Two flat rings and one "corrugated" ring, the two flat rings will sandwich the third.
Slide the first ring down over the ring lands (the three grooves around the piston that contain the rings), careful not to scratch the skirts of the piston. The rings have some flexibility but can and will break with too much force, so be careful. Obviously, the ring lands should be cleaned to remove any carbon buildup before installing rings.
Put the scraper ring into the third groove.
Insert the lower flat ring.
And then the upper flat ring
This is the second compression ring.
Notice the orientation.
First compression ring.
Work the compression rings into place.
Now, you're ready to rotate your ring gaps so they are 120* apart, and insert the piston rod into the block. As usual, I'm not responsible for any damage you do as a result of this post. I hope this helps out the community and gets more of you to build your motors while saving a little money and learning how to do it yourself.
Modified by Adam@Unitronic.ca at 10:50 AM 5-21-2008