The temp from the intake will make little difference if it comes from the fender or behind the battery. Either just drill holes in the bottom or the box or get a bpi flow stack and filter.
#1
Ive searched around for this topic and was unable to find anything but thread related to Cold Air-intake. I cant get a CAI because i live in florida and with hurricanes and flood the chances that ill go over a puddle and end up with a lake inside my engine are great. How about the velocity stack + short ram without heatshield...is a p-flow better? what should i do?thanks!
#2
The temp from the intake will make little difference if it comes from the fender or behind the battery. Either just drill holes in the bottom or the box or get a bpi flow stack and filter.
#3
i bought one of these. it mounts in your engine bay but they give you a long tube to route it anywhere. the tube isnt long enought to suck up water.
personally i love this even though its quite expensive but alot of people on here are selling them.
read about it. that what sold mehttp://www.bmcairfilters.com/infoCDA.asp
Modified by stevemannn at 1:16 PM 5-27-2008
#4
Quote, originally posted by cincyTT » The temp from the intake will make little difference if it comes from the fender or behind the battery. Either just drill holes in the bottom or the box or get a bpi flow stack and filter. bpi flow stack and filter? whats that? is it something like a neuspeed p-flow?
#5
http://www.bpinitiatives.com/products.php $98 for both
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#6
Ive been running the BPi stack for at least a year and a half and love it
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#7
Go on ebay. they have them w/ blox filters for $50 shipped! worst comes to worst you can just get a K&N filter for $40-50.
I've got a Forge velocity stack + filter on the way for a short ram.
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#10
does it matter if you run the bpi stack and filter without a head shield? i have a ghl cold air intake now..if i switch to bpi will i loose power?
#11
bpi stack + aem dryflow filter since sept 06 here![]()
no heatshield needed
Modified by Durbo20vT at 5:40 PM 5-29-2008
#12
Quote, originally posted by blackedout18T » does it matter if you run the bpi stack and filter without a head shield? i have a ghl cold air intake now..if i switch to bpi will i loose power? This is a turbo car, not NA. The heat from the turbo and compression will bring the temps out of the turbo to roughly the same temps and when it leaves the ic it will be the same temp.
#13
Quote, originally posted by Durbo20vT » bpi stack + aem dryflow filter since sept 06 here ![]()
no heatshield neededI cant find a 6" AEM filter anywheres all I see are 5" ??
HAD - 1991 V8Q | 1990 Jetta 1.6 | 1984 Rabbit 16v | 1990 Audi CQ | 1988 Audi 80 10v | 2005 GTi 1.8T | 1991 GTI 2.0 ABA | 2002 Audi TT S362 | 1988 GTi 16v | 2002 TT Donor
HAVE - 2001 TT 180Q F23 wifes | 1989 Jetta VR6 GLI | 2004 F250 PowerStroke | 1991 GTI TDI Haldex |
#16
thats a better deal than strait from AEM. think you can fit the 8" one in there?
#17
Quote, originally posted by cincyTT » thats a better deal than strait from AEM. think you can fit the 8" one in there? I think you will be at 10,000 posts within a year from now
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#18
Quote, originally posted by Rippinralf » I think you will be at 10,000 posts within a year from now
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Nah, i wont be working out of the house here soon so i wont have time to stay online nearly as much
#20
Quote, originally posted by cincyTT » Nah, i wont be working out of the house here soon so i wont have time to stay online nearly as much
That sucks
you're a staple here in the forum
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#21
Quote, originally posted by cincyTT » This is a turbo car, not NA. The heat from the turbo and compression will bring the temps out of the turbo to roughly the same temps and when it leaves the ic it will be the same temp.
This is not entirely true. The outlet temperature of the turbo is a function of 3 things; the compressor efficiency, the pressure ratio and the inlet temperature. What you will find is that a 10* increase in inlet temperature will propagate into an outlet temperature that is more than 10* higher. When you get to higher pressure ratios and less efficient compressors, a small change in inlet temperature can lead to a significant change in outlet temperature.
edit - and once you get downstream to the intercooler, the hotter inlet temperature will allow more heat to be removed (in terms of Watts), but the outlet temperature of the intercooler will still be higher than it would have with a cooler compressor inlet temperature. As the effectiveness of the intercooler approaches 100%, the outlet temperature will all approach the same temperature (ambient!).
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Modified by leebro61 at 10:10 PM 5-29-2008
#22
I live in the worst weather condition you can have.
Canadian winter...All my dubs i owned i run the swiss box mod combine with a KN panel filter all year long.
When you search here you can see that often it's the best setup you can run and it's cheap 2.
#23
Quote, originally posted by kamikaze2dope »
When you search here you can see that often it's the best setup you can run and it's cheap 2.it's not the best setup. Is it a good setup? yes.
Is it the best? no.
A proper velocity stack will yield smother airflow and will pull air in easier than a flat drop-in filter / airbox.
#24
There is a velocity stack in the stock box
Quote, originally posted by infinityman » it's not the best setup. Is it a good setup? yes.
Is it the best? no.
A proper velocity stack will yield smother airflow and will pull air in easier than a flat drop-in filter / airbox.
#25
Quote, originally posted by leebro61 » This is not entirely true. The outlet temperature of the turbo is a function of 3 things; the compressor efficiency, the pressure ratio and the inlet temperature. What you will find is that a 10* increase in inlet temperature will propagate into an outlet temperature that is more than 10* higher. When you get to higher pressure ratios and less efficient compressors, a small change in inlet temperature can lead to a significant change in outlet temperature.
edit - and once you get downstream to the intercooler, the hotter inlet temperature will allow more heat to be removed (in terms of Watts), but the outlet temperature of the intercooler will still be higher than it would have with a cooler compressor inlet temperature. As the effectiveness of the intercooler approaches 100%, the outlet temperature will all approach the same temperature (ambient!).
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damn. you took the words right out of my mouth. that is exactly what i was thinking
Quote, originally posted by kamikaze2dope » There is a velocity stack in the stock box yes there is
Modified by BIGGEE TALLS at 8:49 AM 5-30-2008
#26
Shielded with a air duct from the bumper to the heat shiled/box is the best set up with a stack. That is already out however, its called the Vflow
#27
Just got my forge velocity stack + filter. I was really surprised. The filter is very very good qaulity. As good as a K&N for sure.
#28
Quote, originally posted by leebro61 » This is not entirely true. The outlet temperature of the turbo is a function of 3 things; the compressor efficiency, the pressure ratio and the inlet temperature. What you will find is that a 10* increase in inlet temperature will propagate into an outlet temperature that is more than 10* higher. When you get to higher pressure ratios and less efficient compressors, a small change in inlet temperature can lead to a significant change in outlet temperature.
edit - and once you get downstream to the intercooler, the hotter inlet temperature will allow more heat to be removed (in terms of Watts), but the outlet temperature of the intercooler will still be higher than it would have with a cooler compressor inlet temperature. As the effectiveness of the intercooler approaches 100%, the outlet temperature will all approach the same temperature (ambient!).
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Modified by leebro61 at 10:10 PM 5-29-2008While in school this is correct, in the real world you have to factor in the part about how the compressor sits an inch away from the satanic inferno-like turbine housing. Whether it is 60degF or 80degF going into the compressor, it will more than likely be equally hot as ballz coming out when your turbine housing is glowing red
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#29
Quote, originally posted by infinityman » Just got my forge velocity stack + filter. I was really surprised. The filter is very very good qaulity. As good as a K&N for sure.
Looks good
what are the dims on it? 6" inlet with 3" outlet?
#30
Quote, originally posted by DonR@Unitronic.ca » Looks good
what are the dims on it? 6" inlet with 3" outlet?
unfortunately the inlet is 2.5", but it is long enough that you can cut it where it goes to 3" and still be safe. That's what i'll do.
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#31
Quote, originally posted by infinityman » unfortunately the inlet is 2.5", but it is long enough that you can cut it where it goes to 3" and still be safe. That's what i'll do.
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So you'll get a 3" OD tube slip it overtop trace it, cut and weld a 3" stub?
#33
Quote, originally posted by NOLA_VDubber » While in school this is correct, in the real world you have to factor in the part about how the compressor sits an inch away from the satanic inferno-like turbine housing. Whether it is 60degF or 80degF going into the compressor, it will more than likely be equally hot as ballz coming out when your turbine housing is glowing red
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The temperature rise of the flowing fluid will be ~equal for each inlet condition due to radiant heat from the turbine housing. For the sake of this thread (and because you are I probably the only ones who care), PM me if you want to discuss.
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#34
Quote, originally posted by DonR@Unitronic.ca » So you'll get a 3" OD tube slip it overtop trace it, cut and weld a 3" stub?
If i can find some 3" aluminum yes i'll TIG on a little stub to it. If not, i'll cut it and just use a coupler, it shouldnt slip off.
#35
^I gave up thinking about thermal-fluid systems when i graduatedI think the moral of the story is that you can either have hot air or hatass air coming out of the compressor; however, the difference is negligable, and is proven so on the dyno...where it really counts
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