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    Thread: Velocity Stack + short ram

    1. Member SlowGolf1's Avatar
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      05-30-2008 12:18 PM #26
      Shielded with a air duct from the bumper to the heat shiled/box is the best set up with a stack. That is already out however, its called the Vflow

    2. 06-05-2008 12:19 PM #27
      Just got my forge velocity stack + filter. I was really surprised. The filter is very very good qaulity. As good as a K&N for sure.




    3. Member NOLA_VDubber's Avatar
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      06-05-2008 12:27 PM #28
      Quote, originally posted by leebro61 »
      This is not entirely true. The outlet temperature of the turbo is a function of 3 things; the compressor efficiency, the pressure ratio and the inlet temperature. What you will find is that a 10* increase in inlet temperature will propagate into an outlet temperature that is more than 10* higher. When you get to higher pressure ratios and less efficient compressors, a small change in inlet temperature can lead to a significant change in outlet temperature.
      edit - and once you get downstream to the intercooler, the hotter inlet temperature will allow more heat to be removed (in terms of Watts), but the outlet temperature of the intercooler will still be higher than it would have with a cooler compressor inlet temperature. As the effectiveness of the intercooler approaches 100%, the outlet temperature will all approach the same temperature (ambient!).


      Modified by leebro61 at 10:10 PM 5-29-2008

      While in school this is correct, in the real world you have to factor in the part about how the compressor sits an inch away from the satanic inferno-like turbine housing. Whether it is 60degF or 80degF going into the compressor, it will more than likely be equally hot as ballz coming out when your turbine housing is glowing red

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      06-05-2008 12:33 PM #29
      Quote, originally posted by infinityman »
      Just got my forge velocity stack + filter. I was really surprised. The filter is very very good qaulity. As good as a K&N for sure.



      Looks good [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] what are the dims on it? 6" inlet with 3" outlet?

    5. 06-05-2008 12:47 PM #30
      Quote, originally posted by DonR@Unitronic.ca »
      Looks good [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] what are the dims on it? 6" inlet with 3" outlet?

      unfortunately the inlet is 2.5", but it is long enough that you can cut it where it goes to 3" and still be safe. That's what i'll do. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

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      06-05-2008 02:48 PM #31
      Quote, originally posted by infinityman »
      unfortunately the inlet is 2.5", but it is long enough that you can cut it where it goes to 3" and still be safe. That's what i'll do. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      So you'll get a 3" OD tube slip it overtop trace it, cut and weld a 3" stub?

    7. Member ex-vtak's Avatar
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      06-05-2008 03:16 PM #32
      anybody have the blox kit from JHPUSA / Ebay ?

    8. 06-05-2008 10:28 PM #33
      Quote, originally posted by NOLA_VDubber »
      While in school this is correct, in the real world you have to factor in the part about how the compressor sits an inch away from the satanic inferno-like turbine housing. Whether it is 60degF or 80degF going into the compressor, it will more than likely be equally hot as ballz coming out when your turbine housing is glowing red

      The temperature rise of the flowing fluid will be ~equal for each inlet condition due to radiant heat from the turbine housing. For the sake of this thread (and because you are I probably the only ones who care), PM me if you want to discuss.

    9. 06-05-2008 10:32 PM #34
      Quote, originally posted by DonR@Unitronic.ca »
      So you'll get a 3" OD tube slip it overtop trace it, cut and weld a 3" stub?

      If i can find some 3" aluminum yes i'll TIG on a little stub to it. If not, i'll cut it and just use a coupler, it shouldnt slip off.

    10. Member NOLA_VDubber's Avatar
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      06-05-2008 10:34 PM #35
      ^I gave up thinking about thermal-fluid systems when i graduated I think the moral of the story is that you can either have hot air or hatass air coming out of the compressor; however, the difference is negligable, and is proven so on the dyno...where it really counts

    11. 06-05-2008 11:08 PM #36
      Quote, originally posted by NOLA_VDubber »
      ^I gave up thinking about thermal-fluid systems when i graduated I think the moral of the story is that you can either have hot air or hatass air coming out of the compressor; however, the difference is negligable, and is proven so on the dyno...where it really counts

      Well, doing thermodynamic design engineering and working on my thermo-fluids masters... I don't have that luxury
      BTW- Where it really counts is at the track! The dyno has limitations where relatively minor differences in setups (as you say) come out in the wash. My point here is not to say that there are huge gains available through decreasing your inlet temperature 5*. I just want to dispute the commonly posted 'vortex knowledge' that inlet temperature doesn't matter because you are compressing it anyway...

    12. Member NOLA_VDubber's Avatar
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      06-05-2008 11:58 PM #37
      touche, indeed! I try my damndest to keep my mouth shut about thermal-fluids because I really only know enough to be dangerous. An ME undergrad degree really doesn't cover schit when you think about it. Thanks again for the insight, we all sure as hell can use it [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    13. Member 1320-20V's Avatar
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      06-05-2008 11:59 PM #38
      Hello Lee, This is Vr6Fidelity, long time no see.
      The amount of pressure a turbocharger can create is proportional to the tip velocity^3.
      You need flow restriction downstream to make pressure.
      You need flow to make pressure, and if your air is hotter, your wheel will need to spin faster to move the same mass flow.
      This all creates heat.
      Your air is not in the volute long enough for it to be heated by the housing. Heat from compression is nearly instantaneous.

    14. 06-07-2008 01:28 AM #39
      Quote, originally posted by 1320-20V »
      Hello Lee, This is Vr6Fidelity, long time no see.
      The amount of pressure a turbocharger can create is proportional to the tip velocity^3.
      You need flow restriction downstream to make pressure.
      You need flow to make pressure, and if your air is hotter, your wheel will need to spin faster to move the same mass flow.
      This all creates heat.
      Your air is not in the volute long enough for it to be heated by the housing. Heat from compression is nearly instantaneous.

      Agreed on all points. Good to see you are still around!

    15. Member ejg3855's Avatar
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      06-07-2008 03:40 PM #40
      where can i find a piece of pipe that will go from the stack to the intake and have the nice Y in it so it works with the other things.
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      06-07-2008 06:20 PM #41
      [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
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    17. Member ejg3855's Avatar
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      06-08-2008 11:59 PM #42
      Quote, originally posted by ejg3855 »
      where can i find a piece of pipe that will go from the stack to the intake and have the nice Y in it so it works with the other things.

      just a lil noob to intakes, help?
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    18. Member l88m22vette's Avatar
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      06-09-2008 12:26 AM #43
      Quote, originally posted by ex-vtak »
      anybody have the blox kit from JHPUSA / Ebay ?


      Thats the eBay one, and its awesome - definetly good quality and equal to the BPI [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
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    19. 06-24-2008 11:47 PM #44
      is that for the 2.0t

    20. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      03-29-2012 06:51 PM #45
      Bump from the dead.

      This is a thread worth remembering. I see some intake questions popping up and I know if I were do do a new intake, this is the sort of stuff I'd be looking into.
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    21. 03-30-2012 09:59 AM #46
      For what it is worth, I have a filter directly on the compressor behind the motor (bottom mount) and logging has revealed no difference in intake air temp readings vs stock location with stock airbox and a hose feeding the bottom of the airbox.

    22. Member T-Boy's Avatar
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      03-30-2012 11:20 AM #47
      Quote Originally Posted by BlueSleeper View Post
      For what it is worth, I have a filter directly on the compressor behind the motor (bottom mount) and logging has revealed no difference in intake air temp readings vs stock location with stock airbox and a hose feeding the bottom of the airbox.
      Interesting....where are the temps being read(probe Location)?

    23. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      03-30-2012 11:33 AM #48
      Quote Originally Posted by T-Boy View Post
      Interesting....where are the temps being read(probe Location)?
      I'm guessing he's using the stock iat sensor in the intake manifold
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    24. Member travis_gli's Avatar
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      03-30-2012 12:35 PM #49
      http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLOX-2-5-VEL...#ht_2240wt_808

      Here is basically what I've been running for 2 years now. Its durable, its a great filter and its fairly inexpensive. Works great in combination with a Forge or other brand TIP. You can find the kit for better prices. Or just buy everything separate and probably save a bit of money. I think I ended getting everything for around $35.

      Basically my setup goes TIP, MAF, couple, velocity stack, filter.

    25. Member veedub-less's Avatar
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      03-30-2012 02:11 PM #50
      Quote Originally Posted by BlueSleeper View Post
      For what it is worth, I have a filter directly on the compressor behind the motor (bottom mount) and logging has revealed no difference in intake air temp readings vs stock location with stock airbox and a hose feeding the bottom of the airbox.
      it doesn't really matter where you put your filter. once that "cold air" hits the turbo it's going to get hot no matter what.

      can't believe people still buy these water-sucking, waste-of-money "cold air" intakes.

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