B6 Passat Rear Brake R&R DIY

[dhambrick]

I changed the rear brakes on my Passat this morning. The car had 38,875 miles on it. From the time I went out into the garage and the time I put the last tool away was less than two hours. This included taking pictures, etc.

Items needed include:

Jack, jack stands and chocks
15mm wrench
13mmsocket
Big "C" clamp or disc brake piston spreader
Battery charger
Computer with VAG-Com and cable
Wrench to remove lug nuts, 17mm socket
Torque wrench

**You must connect and use a battery charger to perform this procedure, otherwise you will get error faults.**

The first thing was to put the rear car up in the air and remove the rear wheels. I jacked the car up using the rear jack point, and placed a jack stand under the rear suspension arm. I did that for both sides.

Remove the wheels and there you have the brakes. But, you first have to open the calipers. Follow the directions from the Ross-Tech site.

Here
Make sure you connect a battery charger before you start the caliper opening sequence.

You will see these screens.

You will hear the rear caliper motors working. It takes a little while for them to completely open. You will see the numbers changing in the measuring blocks.

Once the motors have stopped, you are ready to remove the calipers. Using a 13mm socket and 15mm wrench, remove the caliper retaining bolts in the usual fashion.

Set the caliper aside for a minute.

Remove the old pads. The ones on the back will seem like they are stuck to the rotor. They're not, just push the top of them and they will come right out. My pads were pretty worn!

Press the piston back into the caliper. This is very easily done. There is very little resistance, as long as the pressure is straight in. DO NOT ROTATE! I had to use a large clamp, a spreader would have done the job better. Make sure you open your brake fluid reservoir and put a rag around it to catch any excess fluid (mine didn't spill any).

Place the pads into the carrier. The tabs on the pads slide right into the holder.

Place the caliper back onto the carrier, reattaching the caliper retaining bolts in the usual fashion.

Using Vag-Com again, following the directions for closing and testing the rear brake calipers.

The calipers will go through the cycles.

And that's it! Disconnect the VAG-Com and the battery charger, put your wheels back on, torque the lugs to spec, and bed the brakes to the manufacturers recommendations.

It was no harder (probably easier) than doing the fronts.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3785800

To change the rotors, merely remove the carriers and rotors and I showed in the Front Brake R&R.

**Use a battery charger!**


Modified by dhambrick at 6:01 PM 6-2-2008

[GLSVR6PWR]

Great job. Both of your brake DIY's shoudl be tossed in the FAQ.

Link to ross-tech wiki didn't work for me, but found the procedure here:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/inde...=3795


Modified by GLSVR6PWR at 3:03 PM 5-31-2008

[sinned]

why do you need to hook up the battery charger while you use the vag-com?

[dhambrick]

Quote, originally posted by sinned »

why do you need to hook up the battery charger while you use the vag-com?

To keep the correct voltage level for the control module to work properly.


Modified by dhambrick at 5:57 PM 6-2-2008

[dhambrick]

Quote, originally posted by GLSVR6PWR »

Great job. Both of your brake DIY's shoudl be tossed in the FAQ. Link to ross-tech wiki didn't work for me, but found the procedure here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/inde...=3795 Modified by GLSVR6PWR at 3:03 PM 5-31-2008

Thanks, I fixed the link.

[kuharious]

oh boy, i tried this today and i can not clear an error code i got. i did not have a batery voltage charger hooked up. we were getting a code 01087 which got cleared away then got 02426. now we are stuck, and the calipers will not close open or anything. i am screwed i think.

[dhambrick]

Quote, originally posted by kuharious »

oh boy, i tried this today and i can not clear an error code i got. i did not have a batery voltage charger hooked up. we were getting a code 01087 which got cleared away then got 02426. now we are stuck, and the calipers will not close open or anything. i am screwed i think.

Try the VAG-Com forum, you will need to post a complete scan there.

[kuharious]

wish i had this DIY before my dumb a$$ tried it....thanks for the write up. great as always.

[dhambrick]

Glad you got it working. Saw your post and resolution inthe VAG-Com forum.

[rbradleymedmd]

dhambrick...awesome DIY man!!! I will be using both of your DIY write-ups w/in a month or so and replacing all four rotors and pads. Quick question for you...any recommendations on a battery charger? Would one of these cheap $20 ebay ones work? Obviously we don't need it to super charge the batter ASAP, just keep the voltage constant...seems like any of these should be able to do that...right? Thanks again!

[ic3man]

I do not have the vagcom software or cable. Would it be crazy to leave the key in the ignition so the automatic emergency brake does not engage?

[dhambrick]

Quote, originally posted by rbradleymedmd »

dhambrick...awesome DIY man!!! I will be using both of your DIY write-ups w/in a month or so and replacing all four rotors and pads. Quick question for you...any recommendations on a battery charger? Would one of these cheap $20 ebay ones work? Obviously we don't need it to super charge the batter ASAP, just keep the voltage constant...seems like any of these should be able to do that...right? Thanks again!

Thanks for the kind words!

I would not count on a "Trickle" type charger to keep the battery up to the recommended voltage (I think it's like 13.5v).

That said, you can get a decent battery charger for <$40 at Auto Zone, Pep Boys, or somewhere like that. Or borrow one from your neighbor!

FWIW, my charger was pretty warm after the procedure.

Quote, originally posted by ic3man »

I do not have the vagcom software or cable. Would it be crazy to leave the key in the ignition so the automatic emergency brake does not engage?

Yes, it would be crazy to try, and probably cost you the price of a rear caliper. You cannot change the rear pads without the VAG-Com or the dealer computer.

If you try to change the pads without a battery charger, you will get faults codes, (see the above posts and check the VAG-Com forum).

[rbradleymedmd]

Quote, originally posted by dhambrick »

Thanks for the kind words! I would not count on a "Trickle" type charger to keep the battery up to the recommended voltage (I think it's like 13.5v). That said, you can get a decent battery charger for <$40 at Auto Zone, Pep Boys, or somewhere like that. Or borrow one from your neighbor! FWIW, my charger was pretty warm after the procedure.

Thanks...and for the DIY! Really appreciate it. Btw, did you upgrade the pads or just go with OEM pads again?

[dhambrick]

I upgraded, I got the Hawk EPS pads from Tire Rack, (see the top photo).

I have the Hawk EPS front and rear.

[rbradleymedmd]

That's right...my bad. How's the feel with all four pads upgraded?

[Bill212]

Thanks for the excellent DIY!! bookmarked both for reference.

Regarding the rear rotors, did you check their thickness? Have seen posts saying the dealers recommending changing the rotors when changing the pads.

All your diys are very informative

[dhambrick]

Quote, originally posted by rbradleymedmd »

That's right...my bad. How's the feel with all four pads upgraded?

Actually pretty good. Smooth step in, but really bite if pressed hard. I do have much more pedal now with the rears swapped out. I was suprised how thin they were!

Quote, originally posted by Bill212 »

Thanks for the excellent DIY!! bookmarked both for reference. Regarding the rear rotors, did you check their thickness? Have seen posts saying the dealers recommending changing the rotors when changing the pads. All your diys are very informative

Thanks!

I checked the thickness, and with the SM at my dealership. They said they were good to go. It was funny, they said that most of their rotor replacements are due to metal on metal from the pads due to excessive pad wear, rather than rotor degradation.

So, check your rear pads when you rotate your tires every 5k miles!


Modified by dhambrick at 5:18 PM 3-10-2009

[kuharious]

Quote, originally posted by dhambrick »

Glad you got it working. Saw your post and resolution inthe VAG-Com forum.

Well I just got it fixed last night with the help of a friend and your DIY. Thanks again. Good work.

[dhambrick]

Quote, originally posted by kuharious »

Well I just got it fixed last night with the help of a friend and your DIY. Thanks again. Good work.

[skaranam]

Mine is 2003 Passat. Do I need VAG-Com? I guess this is required only with electronic parking brake. Mine is just regular parking brake.

[dhambrick]

Quote, originally posted by skaranam »

Mine is 2003 Passat. Do I need VAG-Com? I guess this is required only with electronic parking brake. Mine is just regular parking brake.

No, only the B6 with the EPB need the VAG-Com.

I would check in the B5-B5.5 forum for specifics on your car.

[steelerfan]

Just wanted to add that you will need a triple square socket to replace the rear rotors. Also, when I did mine I was able to get the EPB open to change the pads and closed after I was done. But I couldn't get the EPB to cycle. Called Ross-Tech and was told that they have run across this before. Just start the car and use the dash button to open. not a big deal, but it might help someone from wasting time like I did trying to cycle the emergency brake.

[dhambrick]

Quote, originally posted by steelerfan »

Just wanted to add that you will need a triple square socket to replace the rear rotors. Also, when I did mine I was able to get the EPB open to change the pads and closed after I was done. But I couldn't get the EPB to cycle. Called Ross-Tech and was told that they have run across this before. Just start the car and use the dash button to open. not a big deal, but it might help someone from wasting time like I did trying to cycle the emergency brake.

The rotor is held on with a Torx 30 bolt. (I referenced the rotor removal as done on the fronts, here http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3785800)

Great info on the rear open and close issue!

[steelerfan]

True about the rotor being held on by a Torx 30 bit but you will need a triple square to remove the caliper carriers. Great write up by the way! Wish I would have had all that information when I did mine.

[dhambrick]

Cool, I need to pull my wheels and check that out! What size triple square?

[steelerfan]

You'll need a 14mm triple square. I bought a set online made by VIM Tools for about $35. Made in Taiwan but surprisingly good quality. I noticed a lot of triple square bolts when I was under the car. Thought it would be a good idea to have a set. Also, they are stretch bolts and they are a bear to get out. You can reuse them if you use a thread lock when you reinstall them.

[green_gti]

Hi, I've been a mechanic since the late 1950s, and I've got to thank you for your DIY on the B-6 Passat Brakes. I have a Vag Com, and your procedure worked liked "clockwork". Great photos too!!!

[Pimp4cheddar]

nice job with the write up!

[badboyripper]

Nice write up. I think that I'll have to get a Vag-Com very soon.

My battery is in the engine bay. Who else has there's in the trunk?

[Zerek]

I believe all VR6 are in the trunk...

[estrov]

Where do you get a 12 point 14mm drive to remove the rear caliper carrier? Anyone find this in a local store? Pep Boys only gets up to 12mm. I started the break job and can't finish without the bit.

[dhambrick]

Quote, originally posted by badboyripper »

Nice write up. I think that I'll have to get a Vag-Com very soon. My battery is in the engine bay. Who else has there's in the trunk?

Thanks! All VR6 batteries are in the trunk.

[QUOTE=estrov]Where do you get a 12 point 14mm drive to remove the rear caliper carrier? Anyone find this in a local store? Pep Boys only gets up to 12mm. I started the break job and can't finish without the bit.[/QU

I bought mine at Northern Tool. You also might want to check at Sears.

[estrov]

Just finished the rear brakes including the rotors.

The caliper carrier was tough, but by hanging the ratchet down below the lower control arm, I was able to get the bolts loose.

Nice DIY

[type17volkswagen]

Speaking of batteries...

Quote, originally posted by Zerek »

I believe all VR6 are in the trunk...

Great write up. One thing to add for the VR6 folks - you have an AGM battery so be sure to use a charger with a setting for, and select, that type of battery.

From a VW TSB: When testing or charging battery either installed or removed from vehicle:
• Select AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) for 3.6L engine (located in left side of trunk). 480 DIN* or 520 DIN*

[RedWabbitVR]

ok few things I noticed that I didn't have issues with. I did my brakes last year. I don't have access to vag com. but I know my way around brakes. I have a 06 2.0t and had no codes after doing mine without vag com and a battery charger. I removed the rear brake caliper by just taking it off, it took a little pressure but it still slid off. I had to twist mine then press it in till it was all the way depressed. but instead of letting the brake fluid go back into the reservoir( which causes the codes cause it messes with the sensors) crack the bleeder screw and all the brake fluid comes out not messing with any sensors. took me about 30 minutes to change them out with a jack and of course the other hand tools. simple and fast. still had no codes right up until my wife wrecked it last month, now I got a few different code faults for other reasons