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    Thread: B6 Passat Rear Brake R&R DIY

    1. 06-09-2008 10:23 PM #26
      You'll need a 14mm triple square. I bought a set online made by VIM Tools for about $35. Made in Taiwan but surprisingly good quality. I noticed a lot of triple square bolts when I was under the car. Thought it would be a good idea to have a set. Also, they are stretch bolts and they are a bear to get out. You can reuse them if you use a thread lock when you reinstall them.

    2. Junior Member green_gti's Avatar
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      10-17-2008 11:41 PM #27
      Hi, I've been a mechanic since the late 1950s, and I've got to thank you for your DIY on the B-6 Passat Brakes. I have a Vag Com, and your procedure worked liked "clockwork". Great photos too!!! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Trust an automobile designed in a country with a 100kmh national speed limit, or one where there is no speed limit?

    3. Member Pimp4cheddar's Avatar
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      10-18-2008 10:59 AM #28
      nice job with the write up!

    4. Member badboyripper's Avatar
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      10-18-2008 11:19 AM #29
      Nice write up. I think that I'll have to get a Vag-Com very soon.

      My battery is in the engine bay. Who else has there's in the trunk?

    5. Member Zerek's Avatar
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      10-18-2008 01:21 PM #30
      I believe all VR6 are in the trunk...
      2008 Lux Wagon, 2.0T with K&N Drop-in, H&R Sport Springs w/ Koni Sports, Badgeless Grill, LED Interior lights, Hella Smoked Headlights w/ DMM HID Kit, Custom tinted tails, Votex front lip, hatch spoiler and side skirts. 18" VMR 701.

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      11-02-2008 08:50 AM #31
      Where do you get a 12 point 14mm drive to remove the rear caliper carrier? Anyone find this in a local store? Pep Boys only gets up to 12mm. I started the break job and can't finish without the bit.

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      11-02-2008 01:13 PM #32
      Quote, originally posted by badboyripper »
      Nice write up. I think that I'll have to get a Vag-Com very soon. My battery is in the engine bay. Who else has there's in the trunk?

      Thanks! All VR6 batteries are in the trunk.
      [QUOTE=estrov]Where do you get a 12 point 14mm drive to remove the rear caliper carrier? Anyone find this in a local store? Pep Boys only gets up to 12mm. I started the break job and can't finish without the bit.[/QU
      I bought mine at Northern Tool. You also might want to check at Sears.
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      And lets be honest, owning a diesel car is nifty.

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      11-08-2008 10:45 AM #33
      Just finished the rear brakes including the rotors.
      The caliper carrier was tough, but by hanging the ratchet down below the lower control arm, I was able to get the bolts loose.
      Nice DIY

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      11-08-2008 01:46 PM #34
      Speaking of batteries...
      Quote, originally posted by Zerek »
      I believe all VR6 are in the trunk...

      Great write up. One thing to add for the VR6 folks - you have an AGM battery so be sure to use a charger with a setting for, and select, that type of battery.
      From a VW TSB: When testing or charging battery either installed or removed from vehicle:
      • Select AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) for 3.6L engine (located in left side of trunk). 480 DIN* or 520 DIN*


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      11-08-2008 04:13 PM #35
      ok few things I noticed that I didn't have issues with. I did my brakes last year. I don't have access to vag com. but I know my way around brakes. I have a 06 2.0t and had no codes after doing mine without vag com and a battery charger. I removed the rear brake caliper by just taking it off, it took a little pressure but it still slid off. I had to twist mine then press it in till it was all the way depressed. but instead of letting the brake fluid go back into the reservoir( which causes the codes cause it messes with the sensors) crack the bleeder screw and all the brake fluid comes out not messing with any sensors. took me about 30 minutes to change them out with a jack and of course the other hand tools. simple and fast. still had no codes right up until my wife wrecked it last month, now I got a few different code faults for other reasons
      VRSociety #301

    11. 11-09-2008 10:46 AM #36
      Very complete DIY. thanks for the details.
      I did mine without any battery charger hooked up..no codes or issues.
      I think it's in the procedures as a precaution in case your battery is in questionable health.

    12. 02-09-2009 07:00 AM #37
      I don't have a vag com for my 2006 Passat 2.0T. What I do notice on my Passat is that when I turn off my engine (the auto hold isn't pressed), the parking break does not automatically engage to parking position. I can see that this is the case as I push the car (either from the front or back) while the engine is off, and the car does in fact move a bit. With the parking break on, the car does not move as I push it.
      So... knowing that the parking break isn't automatically pressed againt the rotor (after the engine is off), do I still need the vag com to open the caliper before I go about changing the rear breaks???
      Thanks,

    13. 02-09-2009 10:35 AM #38
      Quote, originally posted by bxw »
      I don't have a vag com for my 2006 Passat 2.0T. What I do notice on my Passat is that when I turn off my engine (the auto hold isn't pressed), the parking break does not automatically engage to parking position. I can see that this is the case as I push the car (either from the front or back) while the engine is off, and the car does in fact move a bit. With the parking break on, the car does not move as I push it.
      So... knowing that the parking break isn't automatically pressed againt the rotor (after the engine is off), do I still need the vag com to open the caliper before I go about changing the rear breaks???
      Thanks,

      Yes, because although the electronic pistons are not pressing against the rotor when parked, it will not back into the caliper housing for you to get the new brake pads in because it will remain static in that parked position.
      Why don't you try without it and let us know if it works or not...

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      02-09-2009 10:41 AM #39
      Quote, originally posted by bxw »
      I don't have a vag com for my 2006 Passat 2.0T.
      snip
      So... knowing that the parking break isn't automatically pressed againt the rotor (after the engine is off), do I still need the vag com to open the caliper before I go about changing the rear breaks???

      Yes.
      You might be able to get the old brakes pads out because they have worn down enough to clear the rotor, but he new pads are much thicker, and VAGCom (VCDS) is needed to have the pistons fully retract into the caliper so the new ones will fit.
      VAGCom also reseats and resets the caliper based on the new pads.
      2010 Golf TDI 4 Door Shark Blue. DSG, Sunroof, Dynaudio, Nav, Rear airbags

      Quote Originally Posted by Outie5000 View Post
      And lets be honest, owning a diesel car is nifty.

    15. 02-23-2009 11:15 PM #40
      I'm glad I stumbled upon this DIY before I screwed it up more than it is now! Luckily I had all the time to research wilst waiting for all the parts to come in (rotors, brakes, triple square).
      I've already removed the left rear pads before reading up on the DIY. It's just hanging out right now until I get my Vag Com cable. Will I still be able to reset/reseat/open/close the piston, so I could push it back? Or am I screwed?

    16. 04-13-2009 12:53 PM #41
      Does anyone know the part number for replacement carrier stretch bolts? I found n91081501 online, but it shows the bolt head size as being 12mm.


      Modified by networkcrasher at 3:45 PM 4-13-2009

    17. 04-17-2009 09:58 AM #42
      I noticed that you didn't have a pair of chuck to block the front wheels from rolling. Isn't this dangerous?

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      06-04-2009 10:57 PM #43
      Ok guys I have made a major mistake when replacing my rear pads. I used vagcom to move the motors. I had both calipers off the car. I used a C Clamp to push in one side and reinstalled everything. My Major Flaw was that I tried to reinstall the rim/tire on one side before even finishing the other side. I stepped on the brake before the other caliper was reassembled. Now the piston has pushed all the way out and won't go back in. What have I done? How can I fix this problem?

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      06-05-2009 03:00 PM #44
      Quote, originally posted by SMOOTH »
      Ok guys I have made a major mistake when replacing my rear pads. I used vagcom to move the motors. I had both calipers off the car. I used a C Clamp to push in one side and reinstalled everything. My Major Flaw was that I tried to reinstall the rim/tire on one side before even finishing the other side. I stepped on the brake before the other caliper was reassembled. Now the piston has pushed all the way out and won't go back in. What have I done? How can I fix this problem?

      Use VAGCom to re-cycle the pistons back out and back in. That should reset the calipers.
      2010 Golf TDI 4 Door Shark Blue. DSG, Sunroof, Dynaudio, Nav, Rear airbags

      Quote Originally Posted by Outie5000 View Post
      And lets be honest, owning a diesel car is nifty.

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      06-05-2009 03:02 PM #45
      Quote, originally posted by bxw »
      I noticed that you didn't have a pair of chuck to block the front wheels from rolling. Isn't this dangerous?

      Actually both front tires are chocked. The chocks are on the front side of the tires, in the direction the weight of the car is sloped towards.
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      Quote Originally Posted by Outie5000 View Post
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      06-05-2009 03:12 PM #46
      Quote, originally posted by dhambrick »
      Use VAGCom to re-cycle the pistons back out and back in. That should reset the calipers.

      I thought about that. (Remember one caliper is now back in place and one is unbolted) So use the sequence to close the piston and then performance the sequence again like I was starting from scratch......

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      06-05-2009 03:40 PM #47
      Yep, from scratch.
      Bolt the caliper back on with one old pad or something so that it won't come all the way put. You should be fine. Even with the piston out, with one old pad (or none), it should go back over the rotor.
      I wouldn't cycle the motors with the caliper off the car. Not sure if anything would happen, but...
      2010 Golf TDI 4 Door Shark Blue. DSG, Sunroof, Dynaudio, Nav, Rear airbags

      Quote Originally Posted by Outie5000 View Post
      And lets be honest, owning a diesel car is nifty.

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      06-05-2009 08:42 PM #48
      Ended up being a little more difficult than that but it is all back together. Now my EPB light flashes and beeps. And I have this code:
      Friday,05,June,2009,19:32:19:35305
      VCDS Version: Release 805.4
      Data version: 20090602

      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

      Address 53: Parking Brake
      Control Module Part Number: 3C0 907 801 B
      Component and/or Version: EPB VC8HC001 013 0001
      Software Coding: 0000013
      Work Shop Code: WSC 131071
      1 Fault Found:
      02433 - Supply Voltage for Right Parking Brake Motor (V283)
      012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - MIL ON
      Freeze Frame:
      Fault Status: 11101100
      Fault Priority: 1
      Fault Frequency: 1
      Reset counter: 222
      Mileage: 88008 km
      Time Indication: 0
      Date: 2009.06.03
      Time: 19:16:42
      Freeze Frame:
      Voltage: 13.56 V
      Count: 87

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      06-06-2009 02:29 PM #49
      I would suggest posting this on the VAGCom forum. Also, there is a diagnostic portion of the Rear R&R VAGCom procedure.
      Have you tried clearing the code and running through the entire sequence (including the test portion) again?
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      Quote Originally Posted by Outie5000 View Post
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      06-06-2009 02:48 PM #50
      Quote, originally posted by dhambrick »
      I would suggest posting this on the VAGCom forum. Also, there is a diagnostic portion of the Rear R&R VAGCom procedure.
      Have you tried clearing the code and running through the entire sequence (including the test portion) again?

      Thanks. I have posted this on the VAGCom forum. I have tried clearing the code it comes right back and I have tried to go through the sequence again but I get a error message when trying to open the caliper and it doesn't do anything during the close or test sequences.

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