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    Thread: B6 Passat Rear Brake R&R DIY

    1. Member x9t's Avatar
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      09-20-2011 03:15 AM #106
      Quote Originally Posted by joey3002 View Post
      do you need a triple square bit to take the caliper off?

      thanks
      As mention before.. yes. You will also need a big.. breaker bar.

      JT
      Passat B6 6MT 2.0TFSI, Spork Pkg, Bixenons, Giac,EVOMS Intake, Neuspeed SS, NS Rear S B, Koni FSD/Eibach Pro kit, Peloquin LSD, VF Mounts, Forge DV and FMIC, 18x9 Wheels,Badgeless Grille, Hidef Rear Bumper/Spoiler/Tips, Votex Side, Abt Front lip..
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    2. Member low_passat's Avatar
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      09-20-2011 10:12 AM #107
      Quote Originally Posted by joey3002 View Post
      do you need a triple square bit to take the caliper off?

      thanks
      Quote Originally Posted by x9t View Post
      As mention before.. yes. You will also need a big.. breaker bar.

      JT
      Not quite accurate....You do not need the triple square to remove the caliper, so if you are just changing pads it's not needed. If you want to change the rotors you need a 14mm triple square & a BIG breaker bar to remove the caliper carrier.
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    3. 09-21-2011 07:55 AM #108
      Quote Originally Posted by B6 Passat View Post
      Not quite accurate....You do not need the triple square to remove the caliper, so if you are just changing pads it's not needed. If you want to change the rotors you need a 14mm triple square & a BIG breaker bar to remove the caliper carrier.
      thanks, thats all I am doing (the pads)

    4. Semi-n00b
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      09-22-2011 09:53 AM #109
      52K views - Should this be a sticky?

    5. 10-09-2011 12:51 PM #110
      Just did the fronts and the rears. This guide was spot on. My advice is to have a brake spreader, the C-clamp was way to hard.. a quick trip to autozone and 9 bucks later, the rears were flying off...

    6. 10-11-2011 01:19 AM #111
      Excellent DIY! I plan to change my brake pads this weekend but I am unable to figure out where and how to connect the battery charger. In you pic, I see a battery and a battery charger connected on one of the side pockets of the trunk, on mine I do not see the same setup. I own a 2006 (B6) Passat 2.0T. Pls. help!

    7. 10-11-2011 09:26 PM #112
      i didnt do the battery hook up. Still not sure why that was mentioned.

    8. Member Hadzo's Avatar
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      10-17-2011 04:37 PM #113
      Quote Originally Posted by erbil_69 View Post
      Hey guys, just did my dads B6 2007 Passat recently without reading this thread and without the VAG cable thingy, but still did it.

      #1) take everything off as described.

      #2) unclip the motor cable from the motor,,,, note... it has only a two pin terminal.... one positive, one negative.

      #3) extend some wires from the car battery and tap them on to these therminals, you should be able to see the piston extend or retract....(just by switching between the positive and negative)

      #4) put everything back together with the new pads.... when you press the brake button.... it is normal to hear the motors trying to engage for a little longer than normal...


      This method works and has no error codes.... or any problems...

      only took about 10 minutes per wheel with the right toolz...

      hope you find it useful


      Just want confirm that this method works. Removing the connector from the e-brake motor and using 12V battery (I just removed the one from my car) does work like a charm and no error codes.

      I was literally done in 45 min from start to finish (including removing and re-installing my battery, and clean up)

      I'm pretty sure that original poster DIY procedure is as per repair manual but this way works just fine.

    9. Semi-n00b
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      12-03-2011 11:03 PM #114
      Quote Originally Posted by Hadzo View Post
      Just want confirm that this method works. Removing the connector from the e-brake motor and using 12V battery (I just removed the one from my car) does work like a charm and no error codes.

      I was literally done in 45 min from start to finish (including removing and re-installing my battery, and clean up)

      I'm pretty sure that original poster DIY procedure is as per repair manual but this way works just fine.
      Tried this as well...it works, no faults...
      didn't really want to try this, but after setting up a day with someone from the vortex (who has a "special tool" other than vagcom) to help retract the electronic parking brake and being stood up, I had to resort to this....
      But hey it worked...
      Thanks vwvortex for all the DIY's.....

    10. Member jpskate8's Avatar
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      03-04-2012 03:08 PM #115
      Quote Originally Posted by saltyf View Post
      I have the vag-k+can commander 1.4 (china) software and cable. Does anyone know if I can use it to retract calipers on my B6? I was able to connect to component 25 (EPB) and got the VAG number: 3C0907801B, System: EPB VC8HC001 013, Coding 13 response back. So it looks like I can talk to the right module, I just can't figure out how to send comands to the module. Did anyone here have any luck with this software?
      Just wondering if anyone had any luck with the above post? I got may hands on a Vag K CAN commander 3.6.... I would like to be able to set to service mode with this program as well...



      Thanks
      Josh

    11. 03-05-2012 05:45 AM #116
      Just a quick comment - You should always release the bleed valve when pushing in the piston on brakes as it prevents muck getting into the abs mechanism and damaging it. I know most garages dont bother but it is good practice

    12. 04-16-2012 12:59 PM #117
      Hope someone can help me out. I replaced the pads on my wife's 09 Passat and ran into an erro with VagCom. As a result the "Brake" light on the dash as well as the EBrake Switch are flashing making the car unable to start.

      I am getting a code of 00446:
      Address 53: Parking Brake Labels: 5N0-907-801.clb
      Part No SW: 3C8 907 801 A HW: 3C8 907 801 A
      Component: J540 EPB3 VW-10498 0003
      Revision: 009 Serial number: 00000000157211
      Coding: 0000057
      Shop #: WSC 05311 000 00000
      VCID: 2855CD349BE83A9

      1 Fault Found:
      00446 - Function Limitation due to Under-Voltage
      002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
      Freeze Frame:
      Fault Status: 00100010
      Fault Priority: 1
      Fault Frequency: 3
      Reset counter: 120
      Mileage: 49361 km
      Time Indication: 0
      Date: 2012.04.15
      Time: 23:52:16

      Freeze Frame:
      Voltage: 10.60 V
      Count: 52
      Speed: 0.0 km/h
      Hex Value: 0x1261
      Hex Value: 0x0001
      Hex Value: 0x0404

      I did use a Battery Maintainer, but I am wondering if it did not provide enough power to keep the battery charged. I am thinking this b/c my headlights were on during the brake pad replacement job.

      Has anyone run into this? I have this same post up on the VagCom forum but thought this might get more traction.

      Any help is appreciated....My wife took my TDI as collateral today

    13. 04-25-2012 04:15 PM #118
      I brought my passat 2007 to a local "german motor" mechanics to replace the rear brakes pad.
      Before starting I asked him if he was familiar with the procedure and if he had a VAG tool.
      He said yes (he had two at his shop) and apparently he did this before many other times. He had fairly new porches BMW AUDI.
      The problem is that the caliper piston did not move back according to planes. He heard some mechanical noise but no movement in the pistons.
      I then told him that probably he did not follow the correct procedure and to put evrething back in place so that I could take the car to VW.

      Unfortunantly one of the caliper could not be put back in place and while disassembling the piston from the eletric motor a bunch of oil came out and apparently teh caliper is broken now.
      In order to fix it he said that i need to replace two calipers for a $505 each + labor.
      He said that he was familiar with the procedure but I can no belive that both caliper did not work.
      For what i could see he did not attach the battery charger and I also saw him trying to do the process with the car running.
      Did anyone experience the calipe doing some noise but not moving back becasue of error in the procedure?
      please advice ASAP. the car is stuck at the shop with am extra $1100 probably not needed

    14. 04-26-2012 10:36 AM #119
      Ya should've done it yourself. I replaced one caliper on mine 200 with core charge.

      Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

    15. 05-27-2012 01:12 AM #120
      I just did this DIY on my 2010 Tiguan. Worked perfectly! Avoided a very expensive dealer service!

    16. Member bacano4u's Avatar
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      07-10-2012 04:49 PM #121
      Couldnt you just have the car on instead of having use battery charger ?

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      07-10-2012 10:16 PM #122
      Quote Originally Posted by bacano4u View Post
      Couldnt you just have the car on instead of having use battery charger ?
      wondering the same
      DO YOU SPEAK DAS AUTO?

    18. Member Tutti57's Avatar
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      07-11-2012 09:50 AM #123
      How many amps should the charger be set to for this procedure?
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    19. Member bacano4u's Avatar
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      07-11-2012 04:44 PM #124
      I dont get it honestly, set the brake thru VCDS ,let the brake retract, remove the brakes push in the caliper piston back in, bolt back the caliper, then use VCDS to retract the brake.

    20. Member Tutti57's Avatar
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      07-11-2012 05:00 PM #125
      I thought I have read posts in the past that said you can get stuck if you don't use a charger during this procedure, requiring you to buy $1k worth of calipers.

      If its possible to ruin them without it, I'll spend the extra 20 seconds to hook up the charger.
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    21. Member bacano4u's Avatar
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      07-12-2012 09:19 AM #126
      1k in caliper non sense, The problem is I dont have the battery charger. I am doing front and rear brakes an rotors, I used VCDS to open the brake controller and noticed that the brake light on the dash was blinking as well as the parking break, while this was happening I also noticed and heard the brake controller working. I should of snapped some pictures, oh well. Once the caliper stop retracting I unbloted the caliper removed the worn pads. Next procedure was to remove brake bracket that is held by two 12 point " Triple Squares". So i had no choice but to put everything back. Bottom line regrads to the battery charger, I left my car running the whole time, with no issues. I am taking this to the shop, and I will use the battery charger.
      Last edited by bacano4u; 07-12-2012 at 09:43 AM.

    22. Member Tutti57's Avatar
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      07-12-2012 10:45 AM #127
      2006 Passat 2.0T Tiptronic | Unitronic Stage 2 | DG Springs | Newsouth Boost Gauge | BFI Tranny Insert | Rev D DV | BSH PCV fix | eBay Downpipe w/cat | Autotech Exhaust | DDM HIDs | Bentley Manual | VCDS
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    23. Member Track5tar's Avatar
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      07-12-2012 11:03 AM #128
      Quote Originally Posted by restagiu View Post
      I brought my passat 2007 to a local "german motor" mechanics to replace the rear brakes pad.
      Before starting I asked him if he was familiar with the procedure and if he had a VAG tool.
      He said yes (he had two at his shop) and apparently he did this before many other times. He had fairly new porches BMW AUDI.
      The problem is that the caliper piston did not move back according to planes. He heard some mechanical noise but no movement in the pistons.
      I then told him that probably he did not follow the correct procedure and to put evrething back in place so that I could take the car to VW.

      Unfortunantly one of the caliper could not be put back in place and while disassembling the piston from the eletric motor a bunch of oil came out and apparently teh caliper is broken now.
      In order to fix it he said that i need to replace two calipers for a $505 each + labor.
      He said that he was familiar with the procedure but I can no belive that both caliper did not work.
      For what i could see he did not attach the battery charger and I also saw him trying to do the process with the car running.
      Did anyone experience the calipe doing some noise but not moving back becasue of error in the procedure?
      please advice ASAP. the car is stuck at the shop with am extra $1100 probably not needed
      thats one of the responsibilities of having a shop. you screw up, you fix it. You should fight it. I wouldn't pay a dime more than what was originally quoted. if there's any arguments, a lawyer would ease the confusion

      good luck
      Unitronic > APR Switched from APR to UNI and never looking back
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    24. Semi-n00b headache56's Avatar
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      07-25-2012 03:07 AM #129
      I need to change the rear pads on my Audi A4-B8 and using VCDS 11.11.3, Ross-Tech tell me that the procedure is almost identical as this excellent post.

      (1)

      I am unsure about connecting the charger because for the A4, the general advice when using jump leads is to us the "remote jump" terminals under the hood i.e. do not connect them to the battery. I guess that is what I should do ?

      (2)

      I am curious - in the picture in the post the charger is connected to the terminals of the car's battery. Now, if one keeps the car's battery connected at all times, why is it also necssary to connect a charger ? e.g. does the procedure require double the power of a connected battery ? Presumably not but I am struggling to understand the logic. Ross-Tech also say you MUST connect a charger / battery back up.

      Any tips would be much apperciated.

    25. Member low_passat's Avatar
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      07-25-2012 11:10 AM #130
      Quote Originally Posted by headache56 View Post
      I need to change the rear pads on my Audi A4-B8 and using VCDS 11.11.3, Ross-Tech tell me that the procedure is almost identical as this excellent post.

      (1)

      I am unsure about connecting the charger because for the A4, the general advice when using jump leads is to us the "remote jump" terminals under the hood i.e. do not connect them to the battery. I guess that is what I should do ?

      (2)

      I am curious - in the picture in the post the charger is connected to the terminals of the car's battery. Now, if one keeps the car's battery connected at all times, why is it also necssary to connect a charger ? e.g. does the procedure require double the power of a connected battery ? Presumably not but I am struggling to understand the logic. Ross-Tech also say you MUST connect a charger / battery back up.

      Any tips would be much apperciated.
      The reason for the charger is to maintain a consistent voltage. Since you have to leave the key in the ACC position it could cause a voltage drop in the system over the time it takes to do the work on the brakes. Once complete, and it's time to close the parking brake motors, VCDS checks the voltage and if it's something different than it was when you opened them it could cause a fault and damage the motors resulting in costly replacement.
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    26. Junior Member
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      07-31-2012 07:22 AM #131
      Hi, im new to this forum and want to ask a question. I tried replacing my rear brakes on my 2006 passat and was unlucky enough not to figure out how to push the pistons in. A mechanic from the shop helped me and told me i need a 3 prong clamp for it, the shop did not have it so we decided to turn the piston instead using a vise grip,at first it seems working and going in until i realized that we are doing it wrong and actually torn the boot. Does this mean i broke my caliper? Do i really need that special tool just to push it in? And do i need that charger and program? Thank you very much!

      Eric

    27. Member bacano4u's Avatar
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      07-31-2012 09:06 AM #132
      Read the forum my man.
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    28. Member
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      07-31-2012 11:32 AM #133
      This is the topic that show you how to do your rear brakes...

      Read it..

      And yes yes and yes you need all those things

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    29. Member Tutti57's Avatar
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      08-01-2012 01:23 PM #134
      Very easy job with the right tools.
      2006 Passat 2.0T Tiptronic | Unitronic Stage 2 | DG Springs | Newsouth Boost Gauge | BFI Tranny Insert | Rev D DV | BSH PCV fix | eBay Downpipe w/cat | Autotech Exhaust | DDM HIDs | Bentley Manual | VCDS
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    30. Member freddy2081's Avatar
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      08-18-2012 12:41 PM #135
      Just finished mine, with no VAG-COM, and I have another scenario that would be good to posto n the 3d..
      After finishing one side, put everything back together, I couldnt' loose the wheel on the other side (SEAR CAR definitely overtightned it) so I made a big mistake, I activated the parking brake.
      It went on, but the car got all messed up, and brake fault was on the cluster..
      I figured, let's finish the job and the figure it out.
      So, after disconnecting the battery, I lift it, retract the caliper and the take the clamp off. After finishing it I opened the other side manually as well. Connected the battery, started the car, and as I was rolling the cluster told me to release the parking brake. At this point it didnt work anymore, and it just said brake fault.
      I was ready to give up, then I tried one last thing. LIfted the car again, disconnected the battery closed both calipers manually, replugged them and connected the battery.
      Now everything was ok, Parking brake disengaged and no more faults in the cluster...
      yoooohooooo!!!
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    31. Member x9t's Avatar
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      08-20-2012 04:38 AM #136
      wow... just BUY VAG COM.. the BEST TOOL for VW ever!!! you maybe able to pull off the brake job with out it but if your doing it right you still need to recalibrate everything.. or clear codes..

      oh and for those of you who keep asking if a battery charger is needed..yes its needed.. if you dont use it you CAN get codes due to the voltage dropping below VWs spec..

      I have now done this job 4 times.. and I had never EVER done brakes before.. I just followed the great DIY.. nothing to it. make sure you have ALL the tools... invest now.. or pay later..


      JT
      Passat B6 6MT 2.0TFSI, Spork Pkg, Bixenons, Giac,EVOMS Intake, Neuspeed SS, NS Rear S B, Koni FSD/Eibach Pro kit, Peloquin LSD, VF Mounts, Forge DV and FMIC, 18x9 Wheels,Badgeless Grille, Hidef Rear Bumper/Spoiler/Tips, Votex Side, Abt Front lip..
      Passat B4 5MT GLX VR6. Moddified Intake Box with K&N Filter, Borla Muffler... more to come.

    32. Member Tutti57's Avatar
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      08-20-2012 07:28 AM #137
      Quote Originally Posted by x9t View Post
      wow... just BUY VAG COM.. the BEST TOOL for VW ever!!! you maybe able to pull off the brake job with out it but if your doing it right you still need to recalibrate everything.. or clear codes..

      oh and for those of you who keep asking if a battery charger is needed..yes its needed.. if you dont use it you CAN get codes due to the voltage dropping below VWs spec..

      I have now done this job 4 times.. and I had never EVER done brakes before.. I just followed the great DIY.. nothing to it. make sure you have ALL the tools... invest now.. or pay later..


      JT
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      09-09-2012 05:53 AM #138
      it worked on my breaks too without the VAGCOM. i needed to get this done and couldnt wait for the VAGCOM to be mailed here in hawaii so i decided to do it without one. all i did was made sure the parking brakes were disengaged before i started the job. i opened the brake fluid reservoir and used a C-clamp to push the caliper in, the driver side was no pain, but the passenger side was painful. it took me a while before i actually pushed it in. anyway, after i put everything back in place, i pumped the brakes a few times, engaged and disengaged the parking brakes a few times and wallah......the job is done!
      the only problem i got now is that i had the rotors resurfaced while i did the brake job, unfortunately my driver side rotor squeaks because it wasn't done right.
      anyway, thank you for the people that said read the whole post......and yes! i did read the whole post but it needs to be done, couldn't wait.

    34. 09-09-2012 02:49 PM #139
      Quote Originally Posted by avgwarhawk View Post
      From what I understand only one caliper in the rear will activate and be the parking brake. Therefore, if it was stuck then only this side would be worn out and rotor possibly toast. If both are doing it then there is another problem...like heavy braking on your part, crappy parts, proportion valve leads the rear brakes to work harder than designed. It is to my understanding that VW designed the rear brakes to work harder than the front. Perhaps some one can verify that. On my B6 the rear breaks do not generate more dust than the front brakes.


      Modified by avgwarhawk at 1:44 PM 10-5-2009


      Modified by avgwarhawk at 1:45 PM 10-5-2009

      Just in case no one else addressed this, it is not correct. Both rear brakes are used as the EPB. I know because I use that to hold the wheels to remove the lug nuts when I jack the car up.

    35. 09-09-2012 02:54 PM #140
      Quote Originally Posted by knip View Post
      Did this procedure. Great diy. One comment. 15 MM THIN wrench needed. I substituted a smaller crescent wrench.
      Yep, otherwise known as a spanner wrench. I had the same problem where my Craftsman wrench would not fit in the gap to get to the caliper nut. If they would have made it just a couple mm wider.....

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