VWVortex.com - B6 Passat Rear Brake R&R DIY
Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up


    Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast
    Results 76 to 100 of 173

    Thread: B6 Passat Rear Brake R&R DIY

    1. Member
      Join Date
      Jun 2nd, 2006
      '06 B6 3.6 4MO, Sport2, Navi, Dynaudio
      02-04-2010 08:28 AM #76
      Quote, originally posted by erbil_69 »
      #3) extend some wires from the car battery and tap them on to these therminals, you should be able to see the piston extend or retract....(just by switching between the positive and negative)

      This method works and has no error codes.... or any problems...
      only took about 10 minutes per wheel with the right toolz...

      Brilliant. Just did mine, although I have the VAG-COM. But this is great news and keeps from having to rmove the motor. Great job!
      Be careful not to overdrive the motor though. Good idea to use in-line fuse on those trick wires.
      BTW- For those that are replacing rotors as I did, the two bolts holding the caliper carriage are those star socket types. Little trick many know is that a regular 3/8" square drive like on your ratchet or socket extension fits these perfectly. No special tool needed.

      Modified by B64MO at 5:31 AM 2-4-2010

    2. 02-04-2010 11:33 PM #77
      Did my rear brakes today; here are some more tips:
      I did not have a large enough C-clamp to put over both the caliper and the brake motor; so I bought a caliper retractor tool which is a flat metal plate and a screw with a handle to turn. It's the reverse of a C-clamp and forces outward between the screw and the plate (which takes the place of one brake pad). This made it very simple to compress the piston back into the caliper.
      To do a fluid flush it takes 1 liter of the brake fluid; I used the OEM stuff; which costs about the same as store-bought. You could probably use Ate Super Blue instead; but I did not want to worry about any warranty issue.
      First I sucked all of the old fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster; with catch can and rag close by. Then re-filled the reservoir with fresh fluid.
      Starting at the left front wheel raise the left front with the floor jack. Use a "one man bleeder" and attach the tube and catch bottle to the bleed screw; the bottle I used had a magnet on the lid so I stuck it onto the strut (it should be higher than the bleed screw). Open the bleed screw and then pump the brake pedal ~8 times to fill the small catch bottle. Dump out the contents; repeat 1.5 more times. It takes about 20 strokes of the brake pedal to get clean fluid at each brake. Close bleed screw; repeat at right front, left rear, right rear in that order.
      When I finished I had used exactly one liter of brake fluid; and had one liter flushed out of the system. You will know when you get clean fluid at each brake because the older fluid will have a light green tint, and the new fluid is yellow. The last 4 strokes on each brake should yield bright yellow brake fluid in the catch bottle.
      This is very easy to do and since the rears wear twice as fast as the fronts it is an easy task at each brake replacement job (alternating fronts with rears).

    3. 02-05-2010 12:29 PM #78
      Quote, originally posted by B64MO »
      #3) extend some wires from the car battery and tap them on to these therminals, you should be able to see the piston extend or retract....(just by switching between the positive and negative)
      Modified by B64MO at 5:31 AM 2-4-2010

      I was going to try this at first rather than using the drill as I did, but I was concerned that connecting to the battery would have no current limit, which could spell very bad news for such a motor.

    4. 02-05-2010 12:46 PM #79
      It should be fine as the motors will only draw the required current...
      My dads one worked just fine, when it got to the end (i.e. fully retracted) it sounded quieter.
      If you wanna be on the super mega safe side, you can always stick a fuse in between the wire and motor and also monitor the current draw with a ammeter..... but hey, it's your call.

    5. 03-13-2010 07:40 PM #80
      I have the vag-k+can commander 1.4 (china) software and cable. Does anyone know if I can use it to retract calipers on my B6? I was able to connect to component 25 (EPB) and got the VAG number: 3C0907801B, System: EPB VC8HC001 013, Coding 13 response back. So it looks like I can talk to the right module, I just can't figure out how to send comands to the module. Did anyone here have any luck with this software?

    6. Member jity86's Avatar
      Join Date
      Sep 5th, 2002
      Vancouver, WA
      86 GTI 1.8t syncro project , 84 wabbit GTI
      03-19-2010 04:37 PM #81
      one thing to add,I would not use a c clamp! as these cars get older the calipers get harder to compress, i would recommend useing a caliper spreader (they can be had for about $15) rather than a c clamp because the c clamp applies pressure to the back of these delicate electronic calipers, I dont know what they cost to replace but it cant be cheap! the spreader is a purpose built tool that only applies pressure to the pad surfaces.

      Otherwise this was a great DIY, just finished this procedure, everything went awesome!
      CG Autowerks
      vancouver, WA 98663


    7. 03-24-2010 02:47 PM #82
      Does this procedure also apllies to Passat 2004 1.8T for rear break pads and rotors job? In other words do I need VAG Com? Roman

    8. 03-24-2010 03:00 PM #83
      Does this rear break pads & rotor rplacement procedure applies to Passat 2004 1.8T? My key question do I need VAG Com instrumnet for Passat 2004? Thanks

    9. Member neons4012's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 14th, 2007
      Waldorf, MD
      07 B6 2.0T Tip
      03-24-2010 03:06 PM #84
      Quote, originally posted by rczernik »
      Does this rear break pads & rotor rplacement procedure applies to Passat 2004 1.8T? My key question do I need VAG Com instrumnet for Passat 2004? Thanks

      You should post that question in the appropriate forum. This is for Passat B6 or 3C. I think you should be in the B5 or B5.5 forum.

      Modified by neons4012 at 4:20 PM 3-24-2010
      Everything listed is up for sale, Give me a call if you have any questions 240-346-6164
      07 B6 2.0T Tip - 42DD Race DP - AutoTech Cat Back - (SOLD)42DD Ultimate Catch Can(SOLD) - Neuspeed Intake - Kyowa 628 18x8 -SOLD Vogtland Sport SpringsSOLD - Black Badgeless Grille - NSP Boost Gauge Kit SOLD SOLD - Euro Switch

    10. 04-04-2010 07:03 PM #85
      This weekend I replaced the rear brake pads on my 2006 Passat 2.0T without any electronics, using a steering wheel puller to apply pressure to the piston and turning the piston with an adjustable wrench, backing off the pressure while turning the piston. I was a bit concerned about twisting the rubber boots but they seemed to have survived this abuse and everything went back together easily enough. Parking and foot brakes both work fine so I don't think I damaged anything unseen. One thing I could not figure out was how to remove the caliper carrier, the carrier preventing removal of the rotor for resurfacing. As I need the car for work tomorrow that will be a task for another day but some how-to info on the caliper carrier might help another reader. Thank you for a useful post.

    11. Junior Member unexpectedbill's Avatar
      Join Date
      Sep 29th, 2009
      '82 audi coupe turbo, '75 porsche 911c 3.0, 2005 ford fiso, various other junk.
      05-12-2010 07:25 PM #86
      Quote Originally Posted by kuharious View Post
      wish i had this DIY before my dumb a$$ tried it....thanks for the write up. great as always.
      Hey kuharious, I currently have the same issue on my 07 passat & VAGcom forums have your post deleted! Would you help me with this? I have rosstech pro so I should be able to do it if I knew what you did.
      Thank you,
      Unexpected Bill with no hand brake,,,
      or is it a stupid finger brake!-)

    12. Semi-n00b torque46's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 20th, 2008
      Central NJ
      05-28-2010 02:54 PM #87
      I did the battery trick like E64 posted to retract my rear pistons and it worked fine - I actually just used a battery charger and some alligator clip leads that I have, but it did the trick. You hear the motor working and then the pitch changes when it if fully retracted, then just push in the piston with the caliper tool like you would any disc brake. VAG-COM would be my first choice if available, but I had already pulled the pads when I remembered the electric PB. Doh!

    13. 07-09-2010 11:23 PM #88
      hey guys i know this thread is old ...but im wanting to change my rear brakes...but im wondering what is the best VAG-Com cable and software i can get to change the brakes? where can i get it at?

    14. Member CobraKing's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 15th, 2010
      ON, Canada
      Present: '17 STi 6MT, Past: '10 Passat 6MT, '07 Civic 5MT
      07-10-2010 02:44 PM #89
      Hey bro as far as I'm aware Ross Tech is the official manufacturer of VAG COM.

      Check the link below - http://www.ross-tech.com/

      Here's the one I have:


      Post back here once you've done your brakes!

    15. Member
      Join Date
      Mar 29th, 2008
      Villas, NJ
      '10 B6 2.0T
      07-11-2010 01:42 PM #90
      Just did my rear pads with VAG. You definitely need it. I didn't have a battery charger but just cleared out my codes after I finished. Do yourself a favor and get one!
      2010 B6 White Gold Metallic DSG
      Clear Corners, Badgeless Chrome Grille, 5% tint.
      Micro-CAN VAG-COM in Villas, NJ

    16. 08-09-2010 10:27 PM #91
      I am a little confused. I have a 2008 Passat and I took the rear brakes apart(with electronic parking brake) and I want to know if I need the vag-com plug and software. Does the plug come alone or with software? From the emails I read, I could not figure out if the plug is good enough to interface with the passat to open and close the rear motors on the calipers without buying software. I have some experience but im out of date with this stuff, and the car is close to needing some rear brakes soon. Thanks for your time.....

    17. 09-26-2010 03:51 AM #92
      I replaced the rear pads on my 06 tonight. Thanks for all of information provided in these posts, especially those that gave advice on how to bypass needing the software.
      I did not use any computer or software and have no warning lights. I would like to point out that if you do it manually by applying voltage to the motor leads to watch the polarity. Watch the piston as soon as you apply power, if it starts to move outward you need to reverse the polarity. When the leads are connected the right way the motor will run for about 10-15 seconds with the piston not moving, disconnect as soon as you hear the motor struggle or the piston wanting to spin.
      These pistons do not need to be turned while pressing them back in, a simple C clamp works fine.
      I used the bleed valve method when c-clamping the pistons, don't know if this was necessary but I did not want to risk a trouble light.
      Total cost $49.00 and some dirty cloths.

      I used a small burglar alarm battery and test leads form a cheap radio shack volt meter.
      Last edited by roberte1342; 09-26-2010 at 04:31 AM. Reason: Add image

    18. Junior Member
      Join Date
      Apr 25th, 2010
      Evergreen CO
      '08 Passat 4motion wagon, 103k miles;'15 Toyota Highlander;'05 Suzuki DL1000 Vstrom;'88 Honda HawkGT
      02-27-2011 07:05 PM #93
      This is some great info in dhambricks post! I've got an '08 4motion wagon, and I used in conjunction with the Bentley Manual to do the job, and used the VCDS to do the parking brake portions. I also used this more recent rev of the Ross-Tech instructions: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...ext&oldid=5170

      A couple things that worked well, or differently for me:

      - Jacking the car - I've got two hockey pucks that I've run through the table saw (using a jig to clamp them securely), and cut a groove down the center. I used this on my older Saab 900 as well, and it works great to keep your jack from bending up the weld-seam. If you cut them just right, you can flex them over the seam, and they hold themselves in place while you position the jack.

      - I had the rotors turned as well. Napa does it free if you buy their premium pads, so I figured it couldn't hurt. As mentioned you have to remove the caliper carriers to get the rotors off. This does require a 14mm triple square, and the longest breaker bar you can find, because they are mega-tight. Because access is limited, I actually used two different breakers, and a rubber mallet. I put on a 16" breaker, tapped it as far as I could with the mallet, then put an 8" on at a different angle and tapped it. Each access point only gave a few degrees of rotation, so I had to switch back and forth until it got loose enough to use a shorter ratchet.

      - My rotors were frozen on pretty good too. I soaked around the hub and through all the bolt holes with PB Blaster Rust penetrant. Access to hammer the rotor from the back is limited to the caliper location and it's hard to get a good swing there. I slid a Stanley WonderBar up between the rotor and the rotor guard from the bottom, and put a wooden paint stir stick between it and the rotor to prevent rotor damage. Then, prying against the hub, roughly where the disc guard bolts on, I tapped with a rubber mallet - turned the rotor a quarter turn, repeated, until it popped off. When I reinstalled the rotors, I put some brake grease between the hub and the rotor. As long as it doesn't migrate out from centripedal force and get all over the rotors, I figure it might help. If it does get flung out, I figured it would go between the holes between the two rotor sides...

      - Remounting the caliper carrier, I couldn't find a reliable torque spec for the bolts - peoples suggestions on the forum ranged from 66ft/lb to 90 ft/lb, and I couldn't find the spec in Bentley - it might be in there, but the manual is brand new and I'm still finding my way around it in. At any rate, my torque wrench was too long to get on the bolts from any angle - didn't fit into the wheel well, and I didn't have the car high enough to fit it in from the bottom. So, I put blue thread locker on them, torqued them as tight as I could with a 16" breaker bar, and I'm calling it good. I reused the bolts - another thing that there seems to be some disagreement about on the forum. From what I could gather, the caliper mounting bolts are NOT reusable (my pads came with new ones that had pre-applied red threadlocker), but the caliper CARRIER mounting bolts ARE reusable, but should have threadlocker applied.

      - I used a large quickclamp style bar-clamp to press the piston back in. I find these work well because the jaws are large enough to press evenly across the piston, and they don't twist or walk around as you tighten them. Some can also be flipped around to work as spreaders.

      - I did have to suck a bit of fluid out of the reservoir prior to pad press-in. I used a big syringe to do that.

      - I also put some brake grease on the back side of the new pads to help prevent squeak.

      - I did not do the Longitudinal Acceleration Sensor (G251) steps on the VCDS wiki info. Is this something I should do? It didn't seem necessary, and it wasn't mentioned in dhambrick's original DIY post, so I didn't do it. I test drove the car, operated the E-brake a few times, bedded things in, and it all seems good. I've got no errors or anything, but I've also only put about 5 miles on the car.

      - I usually use this procedure to bed in brakes, and it seems to work pretty well: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...formance.shtml

      Again - Great stuff - Thanks for posting this dhambrick!
      Last edited by dobie42; 02-27-2011 at 07:09 PM.

    19. 03-30-2011 01:02 AM #94
      trying to change the rear brakes on my brother-in-laws 2007 2.0 Passat. brand new with VW's, but decent experience with my own chrysler and chevy. Just realized I need the vag-com system to disengage the parking brake. Can I rent that somehow? or is there a nice person in the seattle area that can help me out? or can someone re-explain the trick to do it without software. thanks

    20. 03-30-2011 01:08 AM #95
      just saw the posts with the battery terminal trick and the drill trick. think I'll try the battery terminal...

    21. 04-03-2011 02:51 PM #96
      After reading all the different threads and other sites about changing the brake pads out on my 2006 Passat I was little concerned that I would end up having to taker it a dealer.

      BUT IT WAS SO EASY. And saved hundreds of dollars/

      It was SO EASY.

      1) Removed brake cylinder
      2) Removed pads
      3) Using a star bit unscrewed the electric brake motor
      4) Using the next size up star bit slid it in the brake cylinder back where the electric motor attaches to the brake cylinder and counter screwed by hand and backed in the screw that the motor pushes with.
      5) Used a C-Clamp to push in the cylinder
      6) Put it all back together and done...

      The only tools I needed where:
      1. 13mm box wrench
      1. 15mm box wrench
      1. Star socket #30 to remove the motor screws, with an extension and ratchet.
      1. Star socket #40 to counter screw the back of the master cylinder BY HAND
      1. C-Clamp

      That’s it, took 25 minutes. Getting the tires on and off was the hardest part, no kidding.

      Saved $hundreds and it was easy. So all this hype about you NEED to take it to a dealer or you NEED to get that v-com or what ever it is, is a bunch of bull...

    22. 05-06-2011 02:32 PM #97
      hey guys..

      i see a lot of ppl who have this figured out on this forum.. I was wondering if anyone is from Michigan (metro detroit area).. I will pay you to change it for me .. This will help pay for your tool as well and make my life easy !!!

      Anyone interested mail or msg me..

      Thanks guys.

    23. 06-05-2011 06:02 PM #98
      Quote Originally Posted by pablo_max View Post
      A bit of an old post I know, but I changed my rear brakes BEFORE I saw this...
      Just changed the rear pads on the wife's 08 wagon using Pablo's procedure. Much simpler than doing it with the Vagcom (which i have) and same result overall. A couple of things i would add are it was a T40 torx bit that fitted in the caliper to retract it on mine (don't know if VW have changed the system) and it had to be wound clockwise to retract the piston, not anti clockwise as per Pablo. I also didn't need to use power tools, a few turns by hand were all that was needed.

      Thanks Pablo.

    24. 06-15-2011 12:37 PM #99
      +1 for Pablo's method. I change all the brakes myself but for the Passat I always had to bring it to the dealership or an independent Volkswagen mechanic to replace them. The labor itself is $95 - $150. I was always mad since I know changing them is very easy and the only thing holding me back was the Vagcom which I don't have. I found this thread and followed his method. It was WAY easy. As the previous poster mentioned, remove the motor and turn the screw behind the piston clockwise to release it. It turns very easy. No warning lights, everything works like a champ! Saved myself and of $$$.

    25. Banned
      Join Date
      Jul 19th, 2010
      06-18-2011 08:44 PM #100
      do we only need to replace the pads ? or rotors in the same time?

      can I just replace pads on rear and leave front changed out later?

      I went to dealer for routine check at 80K, the report said, i still have 70% front pad, 60% at rear. I haven't replaced them from mile 0, I really doubt they checked. From my eyes, I can only see 3-4mm at rear pad.

    For advertising information click HERE

    Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts