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    Thread: *** 2.8 / 3.2 Valve Springs & Head stud Kits ***

    1. Forum Sponsor INA's Avatar
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      06-13-2008 01:43 AM #1
      Quote, originally posted by 24V ARP Head stud kit »

      High rate dual valve spring set for the 24v VR6, includes spring seats and Ti retainers which allow for higher lift than stock retainers, at half the weight.

      Specs:

      * 13.90mm max lift
      * Coil bind at 17mm
      * Rate 12.6lbs/mm


      PRICE FOR SPRING SET = $745US Shipped

      Quote, originally posted by High-Flow Valve Set, 24V VR6 & R32 »

      PRICE FOR VALVE SET = $775US Shipped


      Quote, originally posted by 24V ARP Head stud kit »

      Finally, an affordable head stud set for the 24v VR6, we build this set using ARP hardware, this is not an "off the shelf" ARP kit.

      Recommended for boosted applications or high revving NA to achieve superior head gasket sealing.

      PRICE FOR ARP STUDS = $265US Shipped

      Please send me a PM when you are ready to order.
      Thanks


      Modified by INA at 9:34 PM 12-11-2008

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    2. Member One Gray GLI's Avatar
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      06-13-2008 06:01 AM #2
      cool, won't have to use raceware studs.

      I'll be PMing you very shortly I hope.

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      06-14-2008 12:54 PM #3
      the ARP bolts aren't long enough to accommodate a s/s spacer...correct...???

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      06-14-2008 01:02 PM #4
      Quote, originally posted by dubdoor »
      the ARP bolts aren't long enough to accommodate a s/s spacer...correct...???

      They are?I cant imagine your spacer being more than 3mm thick
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    5. 06-14-2008 03:39 PM #5
      some of the spacers are 8.5mm thick, specifically the hgp one that lowers compression to 7.5:1

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      06-14-2008 03:41 PM #6
      Quote, originally posted by kurty85 »
      some of the spacers are 8.5mm thick, specifically the hgp one that lowers compression to 7.5:1

      Thats pretty crazy
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      06-14-2008 05:21 PM #7
      Quote, originally posted by dubdoor »
      the ARP bolts aren't long enough to accommodate a s/s spacer...correct...???

      What are you basing this off of. If you screw the studs down as far as you can they aren't even long enough to bolt it down w/o a spacer. When I helping SLEEPYDUB put his hg spacer in we called Raceware b/c the we didn't think the studs were long enough. They then told us we were doing it wrong. You are only suppose to screw the studs into the head to give yourself enough thread to tighten the nuts on. Do not crank then all the way down into the head.

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      06-15-2008 11:38 PM #8
      Quote, originally posted by BakBer »

      What are you basing this off of.

      email correspondence with B. Schimmel...he claims they are too short...i posted here for confirmation...now it seems there is conficting info...


    9. Member BakBer's Avatar
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      06-15-2008 11:50 PM #9
      Quote, originally posted by dubdoor »

      email correspondence with B. Schimmel...he claims they are too short...i posted here for confirmation...now it seems there is conficting info...

      I talked with Arnold at Pagparts and and rep for Raceware. They both said to not screw them down into the head all the way. Meik used the Raceware studs on his first build and so did Jacob.

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      06-16-2008 12:10 AM #10
      watching.
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    11. 07-01-2008 10:18 AM #11
      has anyone tried this arp bolt set..are the bolts the right length..?can i screw the bolts the hole way down,and it still works in the top..?arp works perfekt in my 12v.i don´t understand why it is a problem on the 24v..


      Modified by VR6-GT42RS at 7:29 AM 7-1-2008
      R36T AWD 1100HP

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      07-01-2008 02:07 PM #12
      Quote, originally posted by VR6-GT42RS »
      has anyone tried this arp bolt set..are the bolts the right length..?can i screw the bolts the hole way down,and it still works in the top..?arp works perfekt in my 12v.i don´t understand why it is a problem on the 24v..

      We have sold a couple of sets and they work fine.The 12V's are too short to work in the 24V block.
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    13. 07-01-2008 03:35 PM #13
      i did not say that 12v bolts fit in 24v i know that it is not the same..i have both engines...i said that the arp bolts fit perfekt in my vr6 12v...and that is why i did not understand why arp has probs with the length to the 24v..i want arp bolts in my 24v too..but i want be sure that i fits perfekt before i order..anyone here in th 2,8 24v forum who has these bolts..?


      Modified by VR6-GT42RS at 12:40 PM 7-1-2008
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      07-01-2008 03:54 PM #14
      Quote, originally posted by VR6-GT42RS »
      i did not say that 12v bolts fit in 24v i know that it is not the same..i have both engines...i said that the arp bolts fit perfekt in my vr6 12v...and that is why i did not understand why arp has probs with the length to the 24v..i want arp bolts in my 24v too..but i want be sure that i fits perfekt before i order..anyone here in th 2,8 24v forum who has these bolts..?

      Well ARP does not list a set for the 24V.These were custom ordered by us for you.
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    15. 07-15-2008 11:36 PM #15
      Quote, originally posted by dubdoor »

      email correspondence with B. Schimmel...he claims they are too short...i posted here for confirmation...now it seems there is conficting info...

      I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but when I purchased my ARP studs from schimmel, they were too short. He also pieced these together as ARP does not make a kit. However, he replaced the short studs with ones from the 12v and they worked perfect. I have this set up, used it, and can get a measure of the stud I am using for anyone's reassurances if need be.


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      08-03-2008 01:34 AM #16
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      08-17-2008 10:24 PM #17
      IM me with more info...

    18. 09-05-2008 01:44 PM #18
      Just wanted to give everyone an actual opinion on these studs. The Racewares are too short with a standard head spacer, meaning you have to back them out in order to get the nut on fully. After a Raceware stripped on the initial 20 ft-lbs torquing procedure, I called Issam to get a set of ARP's.

      The ARP's are longer than the Racewares, and have more than enough length to accomodate a spacer with the stud bottomed out in the block. Also, the ARP's have a hex key in the top, so that if you had to adjust the length, you could do so without having to remove the head. ARP's also include their moly lube, unlike the Racewares which suggest using motor oil. Personally, I would never think about using the Racewares again now that there is an ARP option availible.

      Thanks Issam!


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      09-05-2008 07:06 PM #19
      Quote, originally posted by dmonitto »
      Just wanted to give everyone an actual opinion on these studs. The Racewares are too short with a standard head spacer, meaning you have to back them out in order to get the nut on fully. After a Raceware stripped on the initial 20 ft-lbs torquing procedure, I called Issam to get a set of ARP's.

      The ARP's are longer than the Racewares, and have more than enough length to accomodate a spacer with the stud bottomed out in the block. Also, the ARP's have a hex key in the top, so that if you had to adjust the length, you could do so without having to remove the head. ARP's also include their moly lube, unlike the Racewares which suggest using motor oil. Personally, I would never think about using the Racewares again now that there is an ARP option availible.

      Thanks Issam!

      to that.

      The internet is serious business.

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      09-05-2008 07:15 PM #20
      Quote, originally posted by dmonitto »
      Just wanted to give everyone an actual opinion on these studs. The Racewares are too short with a standard head spacer, meaning you have to back them out in order to get the nut on fully. After a Raceware stripped on the initial 20 ft-lbs torquing procedure, I called Issam to get a set of ARP's.

      The ARP's are longer than the Racewares, and have more than enough length to accomodate a spacer with the stud bottomed out in the block. Also, the ARP's have a hex key in the top, so that if you had to adjust the length, you could do so without having to remove the head. ARP's also include their moly lube, unlike the Racewares which suggest using motor oil. Personally, I would never think about using the Racewares again now that there is an ARP option availible.

      Thanks Issam!


      Thanks for the Review Joe!
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      09-05-2008 08:42 PM #21
      FWIW My car has raceware studs and a C2 headspacer and it's been that way for ~2 years now -- no leaks.
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    22. 09-12-2008 10:46 AM #22
      Quote, originally posted by PhReE »
      FWIW My car has raceware studs and a C2 headspacer and it's been that way for ~2 years now -- no leaks.

      Many people have luck with Racewares, but personally the ARPs are just a much nicer option.


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      09-26-2008 06:21 PM #23
      Valve springs are now ready to go. 500+whp @ 17psi
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    24. 09-26-2008 08:31 PM #24
      monday I may pick these up! bump.
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      09-26-2008 08:43 PM #25
      Quote, originally posted by fourthchirpin »
      monday I may pick these up! bump.

      id use em over the racewares..they're alot easier to adjust into the block, they have the allen key ontop.

      ask joey and vinny, they'll tell you fourth.

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      09-26-2008 08:57 PM #26
      Quote, originally posted by fourthchirpin »
      monday I may pick these up! bump.

      Want to pick up the Grenadines while you are @ it?
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    27. 09-27-2008 04:00 AM #27
      I wanted to chime and verify that you do have to back the raceware studs out, that is an accurate statement

      bump for Isaam, one of the biggest contributors to vortex, hands down

      Isaam - lmk if you gonna take me up on my offer that I left on your vm today


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      09-27-2008 05:09 AM #28
      this stuff looks legit
      good **** Issam, i cant wait to see what this stuff will do for a 24v head
      What else do you suggest with this? Cams?
      Im sure you can provide cams with this setup and have the ultimate 24v head huh?
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      09-27-2008 06:01 PM #29
      Quote, originally posted by .SLEEPYDUB. »
      this stuff looks legit
      good **** Issam, i cant wait to see what this stuff will do for a 24v head
      What else do you suggest with this? Cams?
      Im sure you can provide cams with this setup and have the ultimate 24v head huh?

      I am using TT cams so let me know if you wants those.
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    30. 09-30-2008 09:23 AM #30

    31. 09-30-2008 05:02 PM #31
      Quote, originally posted by BakBer »
      Meik used the Raceware studs on his first build and so did Jacob.

      I used ARP both times.

      Quote, originally posted by BakBer »
      They both said to not screw them down into the head all the way.

      100% true. I screwed mine in all the way - then back 3 times or so. Basically just enough to make the bolts flush w/the top of the nuts.

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      10-07-2008 01:16 PM #32
      Quote, originally posted by kurty85 »
      some of the spacers are 8.5mm thick, specifically the hgp one that lowers compression to 7.5:1

      why the hell would you EVER want your CR that low???


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      10-07-2008 02:19 PM #33
      Watching

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      10-08-2008 05:21 PM #34
      Quote, originally posted by vrDUCKin »
      Watching

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    35. 10-10-2008 11:20 PM #35
      Quote, originally posted by INA »

      PRICE FOR SPRING SET = $745US Shipped


      PRICE FOR ARP STUDS = $265US Shipped

      Please send me a PM when you are ready to order.
      Thanks


      Modified by INA at 7:15 PM 9-26-2008

      Can any1 chime on using this valve springs set. In the past Ive used full schrick 12v valve train, been a little spoiled. Pricing is not that bad considering I paid around 1K for a full schrick valve train.


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