is it ok to do the 096 reset anytime for really no reason other than to see if it changes any?
that sounds like an ecu code rather than a tcu code. u need to reset everything!! ecu and tcu, then try to pull codes.
Quote, originally posted by rychas1 » that sounds like an ecu code rather than a tcu code. u need to reset everything!! ecu and tcu, then try to pull codes.
how to do the DCU reset procedure?
i understand the TCU: key on, press and hold gas peddle > 15 seconds, turn off, release, start and drive
unplug battery for 10 min or reset with vagcom.
this is what i did, disconnect the battery for 8 hrs, start the car with out touching anything till gets the first cycle of the fan, put the car in drive with the parking brake for a minute and drive... well i didn't drive, so i try the key on press gas 15 seconds, turn off, release gas, turn on sit for 5 mins and drive... didn't happen, so i got this codes P1613 mil call up circuit short to b+, P0730 incorrect gear ratio, and P0440 evaporative emission system, still in limp mode for some reason, suggestions are welcome,
i disconnect the battery and the ecu for 20 mins, reconnect everything again and the car start driving again, but slips a little when in first and second, only in the first ride, after that runs ok for a while until gets hot and go to a limp mode, the difference is if i reset with the "turn key on press gass 15 sec..." i get all the gear again, i check the codes and the only one i have is a P0131 i think is the o2 sensor, do you think this is the real problem???
ok here we go, after i read some manuals of the transmission, i found this, check the pressure of the transmission, but i going to explain later because still working on it, but i think this could be a problem, i check the harness but we have to check the valves in case they are plug
I am told I need a new wire harness for my transmission to get it out of limp mode (stuck in 3rd).
How much would I expect to pay for the harness and to have it installed? And does anyone know of a good place in St Louis to take my 2001 Jetta?
Any help would be appreciated.
just on time alone, i know it will be about 2 hrs. they may have a general charge time of even 5 hrs. going rates are usually 70-90/hr. do the math. and then do it yourself. its so easy.
Awesome write-up rychas1 - I love you man! Followed your instructions to the T and got my harness out tonight... the 7 solenoids in my 99 VR6 Jetta tested perfectly but got some strange readings when connected to the harness - so i ordered a new harness for 115 shipped... ain't bad if it works. Question: if you test the harness without anything attached to it, what readings should you get? have you tested your harness before you plugged it in? again, thanks man.
i havent had to test my harness. but i cant imagine testing it with nothing attached.
My VR6 jetta goes into limp mode, and im getting P0758 shift solenoid D circuit electrial (generic OBD2 scanner) I took a multimeter and tested all the pins on the round plug on the trans, everything is in spec (i left the code in the computer when I did this, I didnt erase it yet) what could be the cause here?
if u reset the tcu, and that code keeps popping up, just replace n89(ev2)--the first solenoid from the front. reset tcu again. should be good from there.
Alright ill try that. the solenoids cant be bought new though? gotta pull off from another trans?
i forgot to mention- i bought the car like this and first thing i did was clear the code. i drove it maybe 5 miles and the code came back. so then i popped all the plugs off the tranny and cleaned them with electrical parts cleaner and i probably put 25 miles on the car over the course of a week and the code never came back, smooth shifts, etc. thought for sure i fixed it.
but as soon as i had someone come test drive the car the code came back on the drive, go figure
Modified by MRosier at 5:54 PM 6-8-2009
nope. very easy. if u can change oil, u can do this. just follow the DIY to the letter. i didnt picture in the solenoid change, but it really was just one more step. after the harness is off, just take off that bracket over the solenoids (held on by 6 small torx), unscrew the solenoid from its home and swap! its so easy, i really am surprised at the # of people whom would rather junk the car/ swap the tranny/ curse vws for poor design. imagine the labor at a dealer all for the time it takes to change oil, swap oil and air filters, and clean your wheels
is there a vag part number? like a nine digit/letter number to search for? just curious
found the part numbers:
119952 AFT VW 095/096/097/098: SHIFT 095-927-331A
119952 SL VW 095/096/097/098: shift 095-927-331A
119954 AFT VW 095/096: EPC 095-927-333
119954 SL VW 095/096: EPC 095-927-333
Do they look or which is what? I can't tell due to not having an exploded diagram to work with, and other information.
Modified by Z-Raddo G60 at 11:23 AM 6-9-2009
go back to the first page. i outline their orders.
Great work on the write up rychas1!! I've been following quite some time now and figured I'd post my progress.
So I went from having all gears to only having 1st, 2nd and reverse and then to just having 1st. OBD II codes for all solenoids were popping up. I checked resistance from the pins at the main trans. plug....all within specs. I then checked the connector for power with a multimeter....I was getting 1.9 volts from pin 1 and 2.9 from pin 2, so the solenoids were not getting 12 volts. I removed the TCU.......opened it up by removing the 4 screws... heres how it looks without the housing and the square is where i found my problem....one of the electrical components was burned, you could tell by the residue around it and notice the raise or "bump"......
So I replaced TCU checked connecter and wala....12 volts from pin 1 and still 2.9 from pin 2. Erased codes, scanned and was now getting codes for incorrect gear ration and shift solenoid D...great. So I dropped the pan and the first thing I saw was this..... a locking pin like the one identified by the red arrow fellout and the spring was just hanging there and I found the end plug in the oil pan.....oh man here we go....so i dropped the valve body, since I had to dissasemble it I went ahead and cleaned it all up replaced the spring and plug (making sure all parts were there) reassembled the body, checked wiring harness to assure I was getting 12 volts, put pan, refilled and ha ha ha why does this make me laugh...I only have 1st, 2nd and reverse, I'm hoping it just needs codes erased?????.....I won't have access to a scanner untill 5 hours from now, so then I'll post the outcome. I tried the manual resets but nothing changes, check engine still on, still in limp..... if anyones wanting to guess on what the outcome willbe just to see if there right...you have about 5 hours...i'll post later.....
geez, wow, geez!!! uve done work
my guess..? tcu needs 1 more reset. although the manual reset should do it. so that puzzles me also. keep us posted.
rychas - you're way better than Bentley. Unfortunately, following your post for some time now, I'm still at square-1 with my 02 Jetta TDI 01M and hope someone has an idea. Not just neutral between 3rd and 4th, but 3rd seems to stay in lockup for a moment when signaled to shift, engine cuts and then neutral before going into 4th. This has the effect of throwing you forward in the car for a moment at this shift. Releasing the gas pedal for a blip seems to change the gear quickly. Holding the pedal to the floor pegs the rev limiter before shifting. All gears seem to hold well and no meaningful slip when tranny actually decides to shift. Rather than step-by-step diagnosis, I just replaced the valve body in the 105K miles car: Central Valve Body rebuilt valve body with new solenoids. Harness seems to be good and have followed service bulletin on manual shift linkage position. Not sure what to check next - any ideas? Anyone?
i cant stress this enough...you have to run codes first before beginning any work. it just makes it a gazillion times easier.
and thx for the compliment. i had no idea u guys were taking this that serious. i did it just to document so that i wouldnt forget and maybe someone would benefit.
but, yes, run those codes!!
obd2 readers dont always pull codes that vagcom does. ross tech talks about this all the time. there is a vagcom thread somewhere of people in your area that have them. even the dealer (last resort only!). hook up with someone. otherwise, it really is a stab in the dark and wallet. and it looks as thought u still have the option of manual reset of the tcu. try that!
Modified by rychas1 at 1:20 PM 6-12-2009
Appreciate the advice and am actively searching for someone with the Vagcom. Other than the goofy VW standards like interior trim falling apart, the car has been so good that there's been no justification until now (the first 01M was replaced under warranty at about 50K).
Your DIY steps were great during the valve body replacement (but could have saved myself $100 in ATF if I had paid more attention to placement of the manual shift valve when reassembling).
Thanks again for the great post.
i cant take credit for the valvebody DIY...that was royer25, not me.
After replacing the harness the car shifts perfectly - thanks for this awesome writeup r... Question: my 99 vr6 calls for G052 162 A2 ATF - Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF is compatible with 162 A1 but NOT the A2... can i use this or should i use ONLY A2?
If not castrol then what other cheaper brand is out there? $25/qt at the vw dealer is an overkill - thanks man.
$25 is an overkill, but considering what its going into...the transmission, its worth it to get it done right...once! the A1 may work, but then there is always the 'what if'. on an older tranny, id say go for it. on a 99, i say stick with the pentosin. the following is not directed at you, but do consider this...people spend a lot of consideration on engine oil choices (syn vs dino) and there weights and brands, but all too often, ATF is the last thing on peoples minds. without it, car may run great, but car aint moving! think about it.
I have a quick question, I just changed the fluid and replaced the filter on my 1999 01m. I used a new gasket on the trans pan and it ran great for a couple weeks. However now there is trans fluid leaking from the new gasket on the pan and I cant figure out why? any help is appreciated!
Precision 6262 vrt 397hp / 354tq at 13lbs
make sure the gasket is not twisted or bunched. that can easily happen. or maybe u just didnt torque down enough. try it. ive never had a leak.
I just did the same (filter and gasket) on my 01m. When I started filling if with fluid it started to drip out from around the new gasket. I tightened the bolts a lttle more and wham, one stripped and the fluid came out even faster... I drove it to my local Tranny guy. I'm done. I have bad luck
ouch. yea dont tighten that much. just 45* or so when it bites.
Yeah previous owner had stripped out the one bolt hole but luckily you can just drill those holes out and put on a through bolt. I guess I am going to try another gasket and hope that helps.
Precision 6262 vrt 397hp / 354tq at 13lbs