The all carb diet.

[MkIIRoc]

N/M...haha...I misread what you typed. Thought you wanted to swap up to 48-50mm carbs, not pumpjets.

Guess I should read more gooder

[B4S]

Just ordered a 1.8 needle valve, and a couple 45 and 50 pump jets .

Muahahahahaha!

[B4S]

I just installed an old-school Jacobs Pro-Street ignition, and WHOA did it make a difference. I'm gapped at 0.040" and I was able to lean it out at idle by a full turn on the mixture screws (Dellorto fine-thread). It's idling smooth as silk and nearly 14:1! The throttle response is AMAZING, the slight stumble when giving it a quick shot at idle is non-existant now. This is before the car is warmed up too! It used to idle at 12-13:1, and wasn't super smooth, now it's easily 13.5:1 and sounds like a fuel injected car at idle.

I'm now a believer in aftermarket ignitions on carbed cars .

[B4S]

Had it idling at 16:1 today....

[the12for12]

Quote, originally posted by B4S »

I'm now a believer in aftermarket ignitions on carbed cars .

Jacoubs ALL day

The newer units are even better and cheaper! Wires included

[B4S]

The yellow wires kinda stick out don't they .

[VenaGTi]

so I assume there aren't too many MSD fans here?

[B4S]

The Jacobs setup I got came with the carbs, so for me...it was the clear choice .

[speedtek40]

Quote, originally posted by VenaGTi »

so I assume there aren't too many MSD fans here?

I love my MSD setup, works fantastic....especially with the 8980 timing computer.

[MkIIRoc]

Mallory all the way.

MSD is the nike of ignitions. IMO, overpriced.

Mallory is the bottom shelf special that does all the same stuff for much less.

I run a mallory VI CDIS. Nitrous window switch, all digital, staging and top end limiter, boost retard, start retard, adjustable selectable retard, and more. And there is no pills, it has a digital display for programming. Another cool feature is the tach calibration. I found out my Autometer tach was off by 300 rpm @ 8000RPM.

All for $250! http://www.jegs.com/p/Mallory/...10385

[the12for12]

two fifty is the ball park figure these days.

And if I wasn't concerned with tech support and warranty, I would buy other units

11 years on my DD and the Ultra coil only hiccuped once

I'm still researching the Jeg's and Summit entry level stuff, but it looks doable.

[speedtek40]

If you do some shopping you can get the MSD stuff a lot cheaper than regular. I picked up an MSD 6ALN (nascar version with limiter), blaster 2 coil and an 8980 timing computer on ebay for under $300 and everything works perfect. It may normally command a premium price, but it is a good product. I haven't seen anyone else with an equivalent part to the 8980, with a fixed dizzy it is the cat's azzz.

[MkIIRoc]

The 8980 is all in by 3000rpm. Why not just leave the distributor locked out? You want all in while cruising for economy, and how often are you below 3 while accelerating? Just something to think about. I used to own an 8980, too.

[B4S]

I find with more than 10-15* under cranking conditions, the engine likes to lock up. If whatever product you're using has a start-retard function, than running locked out is probably ok. On a street engine though, the ignition curve can be used to tune the torque curve towards your chosen driving style. I might give the locked-out a try, when I eventually switch from my CIS-E ignition to Megasquirt. I like the idea of having a programmable ignition curve on my carbed car .

[WhiteG60]

What do you guys think about the 8680 instead of the 8980 timing controller? Its the same thing but adjustable from 0-15deg of advance. Its also $20 cheaper @ $131 at jegs.

[B4S]

It's designed to work with a factory ignition box, so it won't work on it's own. If you were to run a vac advance dizzy without the vacuum hooked up, it would be great for that.

[WhiteG60]

Quote, originally posted by B4S »

It's designed to work with a factory ignition box, so it won't work on it's own. If you were to run a vac advance dizzy without the vacuum hooked up, it would be great for that.

Well here's my schtick. I'm running an ABA with dellorto 45s. I already have a 6A box. What else do I need to make it run? If I can run the ABA dizzy, i'd like to.

[MkIIRoc]

I removed the aba rotor, and replaced it with 4 slot wheel and sensor out of an older 8v, since the aba is a 1 slot wheel (IIRC). Then wired to the stock scirocco/ older 8v ignitor, then to the ignition box. The wheel can be removed by tapping on the center of it with a hammer, where the rotor attaches. Be careful not to mushroom it. If you do, dremel is your friend. The gear and shaft will drop out. Put the gear and shaft back in after you replace the hall sender with the older style, then place the new wheel on top. Support the gear, and tap the new wheel in place with a socket that fits the inner circle of the gear, being carefull not to bend it. If you bend it, start over with a new wheel as it might hit the sensor and blow it to pieces at high rpm.

Modified by MkIIRoc at 3:19 PM 7-30-2008

[B4S]

You can, but you'll need the MSD timing computer, and an ICM from an older car IIRC.

[WhiteG60]

Quote, originally posted by B4S »

You can, but you'll need the MSD timing computer, and an ICM from an older car IIRC.

None of that is a big deal. I do need to swap the window ring for a single window though correct? Silly distributers. I'm used to my 2.0L 20v Turbo on 034

[MkIIRoc]

No, read my post above.

The single window will not trigger the older ignitors

[WhiteG60]

Quote, originally posted by MkIIRoc »

No, read my post above. The single window will not trigger the older ignitors

Right, I may have the name wrong, but I knew i needed the ring out of a 1.8L 8v. Thats all

[speedtek40]

Quote, originally posted by MkIIRoc »

The 8980 is all in by 3000rpm. Why not just leave the distributor locked out? You want all in while cruising for economy, and how often are you below 3 while accelerating? Just something to think about. I used to own an 8980, too.

I'd be willing to bet that a vacumm dizzy is "all-in" by 3000 as well.

[WhiteG60]

Quote, originally posted by speedtek40 »

I'd be willing to bet that a vacumm dizzy is "all-in" by 3000 as well.

Vac advance should be 'all in' as soon as you're at WOT.

[MkIIRoc]

A vac dizzy is a dual advance. The counterweights and springs vary, so you would have to check each one, since they have all been in use for ~15-20 years.

Either way, my opinion is the same. Depending on how much spark you want to throw at it, save the money and run it locked out. But to each their own

[Rubberband]

I ran mine both ways, locked out and with a timing computer for advance. The things I did notice on locked out vs timing curve with the msd was that it idled much better and the feature that retards the timing on initial startup helped as well.

[B4S]

The torque curve can be tuned with the ignition curve though, is locked out the best timing for all RPMs? I tend to tune for as flat and as long as possible, high numbers not super important. I'm curious now.

[MkIIRoc]

I have never messed with it on a dyno, but I am willing to bet the difference wil be on the order of 2 to 3 ft-lbs. Honestly, if you need tons of torque down low, TDI is your friend

[WhiteG60]

I just got an 8980, a 6A, and the proper dizzy ring. Now I just need the block back from the machine shop and the car back from the body shop to put it all together!

I also just received my How to Build and Power Tune Weber and Dellorto DCOE and DHLA Carburetors book too. I'm getting excited here.

[MkIIRoc]

That's a good book. My copy's spine is all creased from a couple years of throne room reading.

[B4S]

Same here!

I wasn't referring to maximum torque in my above post, more like a solid flat curve that trades the most torque at one peak for the best compromise between that and a flat curve. So, instead of having a torque peak of say 3700, and 100ft/lbs, I'd be tuning via ignition timing to hit a torque peak of 2500-3500 with 85ft/lbs.

[MkIIRoc]

I feel ya, my torque peaks at almost 5500, so I'm out of that conversation

[B4S]

Fiddled with the car last night, out of boredom. Put a stronger throttle return spring on, MUCH better now. Reset the timing too, for ishts and giggles. I still can't get over how smooth the car idles with the Jacobs ignition...even at 15:1 under warmup conditions (no choke used).

T-minus 4 days until I can legally drive the thing....

[WhiteG60]

Quote, originally posted by B4S »

Fiddled with the car last night, out of boredom. Put a stronger throttle return spring on, MUCH better now. Reset the timing too, for ishts and giggles. I still can't get over how smooth the car idles with the Jacobs ignition...even at 15:1 under warmup conditions (no choke used). T-minus 4 days until I can legally drive the thing....

What ignition did you have before? Stock?

[B4S]

Yep, plain jane ol' CIS-E 8v knockbox setup. It's still there (obviously), just now being amplified by the Jacobs stuff.