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    Thread: The all carb diet.

    1. Member prom king's Avatar
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      10-04-2012 12:02 PM #1426
      Boo, pulled my idle jet and the holder that holds the jet was cracked Waiting till tomorrow when I get the new holder
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      1998 VW Golf GTI VR6
      10-04-2012 01:07 PM #1427


      Is this the SPA manifold?



      What intake manifold do people prefer for the counterflow 8 valves in regards to ease of installation, changing of jets, syncing the carbs, etc..? I won't be removing the raintray, so its a tight fit.

      I might be able to get one of these style manifolds fairly cheap (pictured below). Would it be the same manifold for the 40mm DCOE's and 45mm's?

      Also, here are the specs I'd like to go with for my carb'd engine build:

      2.0L aba block, balanced
      Solid lifter head, ported and polished, oversized TT valves, dual valve springs with titanium retainers and 7mm valve guides
      306* TT cam
      Adjustable cam gear & lightweight intermediate shaft pulley
      Compression will be around 11:1
      1 5/8 header

      Any thoughts for exhaust size?

      Now for carbs, I have access to some 40mm DCOE's but I'm thinking I might want to step up to 45's. What are your thoughts? Jetting thoughts? or 40/44/48 mm IDF's?

      New to the carb thing, but looking forward to getting this build underway!

      Thanks!


    3. Member ncbrock's Avatar
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      10-04-2012 05:35 PM #1428
      id for sure run 45's with that setup, sounds like a monster

    4. Member B4S's Avatar
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      10-04-2012 08:17 PM #1429
      Most of the counterflow manifolds I ever had were definitely only for 40mm carbs. They would need to be ported for 45s.
      1987 GTI 16v, no build thread.

    5. Member
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      10-04-2012 09:00 PM #1430
      Quote Originally Posted by B4S View Post
      Most of the counterflow manifolds I ever had were definitely only for 40mm carbs. They would need to be ported for 45s.
      OK! Perfect, thanks!

      I think I'm going to go for the intake that uses side draft webers. It seems to be a much better way to go with the flow from the carbs into the engine being more direct.

    6. Member M dub's Avatar
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      10-06-2012 03:29 AM #1431
      Quote Originally Posted by Stephan Schmidt View Post
      What linkage is that?
      http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/pm3714.htm
      Quote Originally Posted by IRDangerDave View Post
      BTW, ditch the fram filter. Stick with OE (Bosch or Meyle) or even Purolator filters. Fram tends to be very rerestrictive and can actually cause oil starvation in extreme instances (IE: high rpm usage). Not a big deal on a the average lightly driven daily, but in a hard-driven carbed car with hydraulic lifters... well... ask someone who has used one on a motorcycle to see their repair bill
      I have a CM filter for it but I've been lazy and haven't ordered new filters for it so I'm buying cheap filters till I stop being lazy.

    7. Member prom king's Avatar
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      10-06-2012 09:10 AM #1432
      Tried the F955 Id jets, looks like I'm going to have to go bigger, I'm about 4-5 turns out before I could get the engine to run.

      I think I should try F860s next.
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    8. Member ncbrock's Avatar
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      10-06-2012 04:53 PM #1433
      more awesomeness

    9. Member
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      79 rabbit
      10-07-2012 10:09 AM #1434
      Quote Originally Posted by prom king View Post
      Tried the F955 Id jets, looks like I'm going to have to go bigger, I'm about 4-5 turns out before I could get the engine to run.

      I think I should try F860s next.
      when you change your idle jet, i would not change both parts at the same time. in otherwords, go up to a 60, but leave the same airbleed ( F9 ). once you get to the point where youare about 13/4-31/4 turns out, then, if it is still a little lean or rich, change to an idle jet with the same number but with the different airbleed portion. by changing both the fuel portion and the airbleed at the same time, you may fix 1 part and screw up the other.make sure that your timing is right before changing your jetting, or you may be wasting time and money trying to jet it properly

    10. Member prom king's Avatar
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      10-07-2012 07:32 PM #1435
      Quote Originally Posted by candm View Post
      when you change your idle jet, i would not change both parts at the same time. in otherwords, go up to a 60, but leave the same airbleed ( F9 ). once you get to the point where youare about 13/4-31/4 turns out, then, if it is still a little lean or rich, change to an idle jet with the same number but with the different airbleed portion. by changing both the fuel portion and the airbleed at the same time, you may fix 1 part and screw up the other.make sure that your timing is right before changing your jetting, or you may be wasting time and money trying to jet it properly
      I understand completely what you're trying to say and I appreciate it I've reached the point where I feel comfortable with my timing. I am 12 BDTC at idle. Thank you for the help with the idle jets, I'm going to be ordering F960s tomorrow.
      The other thing I wanted to ask about is, I'm still pulling straight 7s across the board on idle @ 900 on the syncrometer. Is that to much?
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      79 rabbit
      10-08-2012 09:07 AM #1436
      Quote Originally Posted by prom king View Post
      I understand completely what you're trying to say and I appreciate it I've reached the point where I feel comfortable with my timing. I am 12 BDTC at idle. Thank you for the help with the idle jets, I'm going to be ordering F960s tomorrow.
      The other thing I wanted to ask about is, I'm still pulling straight 7s across the board on idle @ 900 on the syncrometer. Is that to much?
      are your idle bypass screws turned in all the way? anyway, on my motor with 288 cams and 12.8-1 compression, flows just under 6 and that is with the idle set at 1300. your #s seem fine. it is just a difference of how your motor is set up, cams, compression, etc.

    12. Member prom king's Avatar
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      10-08-2012 09:30 AM #1437
      Quote Originally Posted by candm View Post
      are your idle bypass screws turned in all the way? anyway, on my motor with 288 cams and 12.8-1 compression, flows just under 6 and that is with the idle set at 1300. your #s seem fine. it is just a difference of how your motor is set up, cams, compression, etc.
      Yeah, they even have that locking cap installed on them.



      These are also both 3 progression hole carbs. To my understanding the newer ones have 4 holes?
      Last edited by prom king; 10-08-2012 at 09:40 AM.
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      79 rabbit
      10-08-2012 10:33 AM #1438
      you can buy either. mine are the 3 hole also

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      92 GTI 16v
      10-08-2012 11:45 AM #1439
      i have the 4 holes version, i dont really see a difference with my older 3 holes.

    15. Member onebdgti's Avatar
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      10-09-2012 09:57 PM #1440
      Ok this may sound like a dumb question but were are you guys getting you rebuild kits for you dual Webers, jets and other parts for the carbs. I bought some carbs 2 years ago and put them on the shelf and I am finally getting around to putting the on my 84 GTI.

    16. Member ncbrock's Avatar
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      10-09-2012 10:03 PM #1441
      ive always ordered my weber parts from racetep.com they have everything you could need and ship super fast, no complaints

    17. Member
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      79 rabbit
      10-10-2012 08:38 AM #1442
      like he said above or www.piercemanifolds.com

    18. Member prom king's Avatar
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      86 Scirocco 16v, 2010 Golf TDI
      10-11-2012 09:20 AM #1443
      Okay still playing with my idle/air mixture screws
      9A Bottom End
      PL 16v head with some work 276 Schrick Cams ported etc
      Raceland Header 2.5 all the way back.
      Running Digital 6plus, with the MSD 8980 Timing computer,
      Idle timing is set to 12 BTDC
      I have a Adjustable Cam Gear, but I haven't touched it yet...
      My Fuel Pressure is set and regulated to 3.5

      My problem. I can't get the idle/mixture to set in 2-3 screws. I always have to go 4-5 out, I've tried a lot of different idle jets. I just recently tried F965s last night and I would have thought that .5 turn out I would be rich... or 1-2 turns I would be really rich, but no I put it 4-5 out, and I'm the same with all the other idle jets I have. So obviously I have a problem. At 4 turns out, the air fuel is 12-13 no hesitation and actually runs and sounds great. On WOT it'll hesitate for half a second and then go, the hestiation is barely noticable.

      I'm drawing on the Sycn tool 7 across all four carbs at 900 idle. Should I try and adjust the butterfly to get them to draw less at idle?

      Right now I have
      150 Mains, 180 Airs, F16 Tubes, 45 Pump Jets, 36 Chokes. I have F955 Idle Jets, F855 Idle Jets, and F965s.... I bought those as a test... I ordered F655's from Redline but they won't be here for a few days.

      I popped the white cap on the air bypass screws, and they were all screwed all the way in.

      Air leaks... I'm going to check for air leaks... I'm prob going to order a new soft mount o-ring kit just to have it around.

      Float Height is the only thing I can honestly say I haven't personally checked myself. What is the correct float height?

      Anybody have any ideas?
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      79 rabbit
      10-11-2012 03:47 PM #1444
      you measure with the gasket in place holding the top cover. when the are hanging vertical and touch the ball that moves the needle, the # should be 12mm. when they are hanging away from the cover, the # should be 26mm. what chokes are in the carbs and are they new or used?

    20. Member prom king's Avatar
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      10-11-2012 03:48 PM #1445
      Quote Originally Posted by candm View Post
      you measure with the gasket in place holding the top cover. when the are hanging vertical and touch the ball that moves the needle, the # should be 12mm. when they are hanging away from the cover, the # should be 26mm. what chokes are in the carbs and are they new or used?
      36 chokes and used.
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      79 rabbit
      10-11-2012 06:46 PM #1446
      there was a guy on here that had the auxilliary venturis in backwards. it is possible to do on webers. i cant remember if he was running lean or rich but you might check those. the carbs will have to be pulled so you might as well replace the soft mounts while you are at it. sometimes with old webers they will develop a leak at the throttle shaft bushings but i would wait til you have tried all else. bad needle and seat maybe. the way you have your motor setup, 36 chokes should be fine. you shouldnt have to be out 4-5 turns on your mixture screws.what i have found is that if you are within the range of jets , whether idle, main, or air, and you still have problems, then it is time to look at a different emulsion tube but that is only if everything is ok with the carb and related parts.

    22. Member woodrowstar's Avatar
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      10-11-2012 09:07 PM #1447
      Quote Originally Posted by prom king View Post
      Anybody have any ideas?
      Man, this is wrecking my brain, too.

    23. Member
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      10-11-2012 09:17 PM #1448
      Quote Originally Posted by candm View Post
      there was a guy on here that had the auxilliary venturis in backwards. it is possible to do on webers. i cant remember if he was running lean or rich but you might check those. the carbs will have to be pulled so you might as well replace the soft mounts while you are at it. sometimes with old webers they will develop a leak at the throttle shaft bushings but i would wait til you have tried all else. bad needle and seat maybe. the way you have your motor setup, 36 chokes should be fine. you shouldnt have to be out 4-5 turns on your mixture screws.what i have found is that if you are within the range of jets , whether idle, main, or air, and you still have problems, then it is time to look at a different emulsion tube but that is only if everything is ok with the carb and related parts.
      im leaning toward air leak too , when you do the test with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. rpm shouldnt change at all , be sure to have put some kind of right stuff on the intake gasket or it will leak 80% of the time , also look if your intake flange is wraped, happened couple of time with used weber kit, also needle valve are not to pricey, worth the try IMO , also i always ran f16 tubes without any problems, so i dont think thats his problem.
      Last edited by hantonyc; 10-11-2012 at 09:19 PM.

    24. Member prom king's Avatar
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      10-11-2012 10:00 PM #1449
      Quote Originally Posted by hantonyc View Post
      im leaning toward air leak too , when you do the test with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. rpm shouldnt change at all , be sure to have put some kind of right stuff on the intake gasket or it will leak 80% of the time , also look if your intake flange is wraped, happened couple of time with used weber kit, also needle valve are not to pricey, worth the try IMO , also i always ran f16 tubes without any problems, so i dont think thats his problem.
      I ordered the soft mount kit from redline today.
      When you say intake manifold gasket? You mean the one inbetween the head and the manifold correct? If so what kind of sealant ot gasket silicone did you use? I've only ever used that copper spray on stacking headgaskets.
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      10-11-2012 10:06 PM #1450
      yeah that gasket, use rightstuff.

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