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    Thread: The all carb diet.

    1. Member
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      79 rabbit
      09-20-2012 04:34 PM #1401
      205 is going to be a bit lean

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      09-20-2012 05:12 PM #1402
      in y opinion your best bet on the air would be 185-190

    3. Member prom king's Avatar
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      09-24-2012 08:01 AM #1403


      Last night I played a little with the mixture screws waiting for my new jets. I have it set to 8BTDC I think I'm going to move it to like 12, it's still starting a little hard.

      But otherwise, its running and idling great. No burps or hesitation I can tell now.

    4. Member ncbrock's Avatar
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      09-24-2012 11:40 AM #1404
      little rich on the idle, but sounds good!

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      09-24-2012 02:54 PM #1405

    6. Member oldschool eighty8's Avatar
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      09-24-2012 02:55 PM #1406
      Sounds great

    7. Member
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      09-24-2012 04:23 PM #1407
      Quote Originally Posted by ncbrock View Post
      little rich on the idle, but sounds good!

      im running theses numbers on idle too , found out that running a bit rich on idle helps having a stable idle but maybe thats just me.

    8. Member DEADheadDOOLEY's Avatar
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      09-24-2012 05:20 PM #1408
      I am thinking about driving my daily up to big bear for oktoberfest. it s a 2.0 16v with dual dellorto 40's

      its going from south OC (~500ft) to big bear (~6500ft) is it worth it to mess around with the mixture as I am climbing and descending or should I just run it and deal with it running poorly while I'm up there?

      Thanks guys

    9. Member prom king's Avatar
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      09-25-2012 08:55 AM #1409
      This is prob my favorite thread on vortex, from actual people who work on their cars.

    10. Member B4S's Avatar
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      09-25-2012 09:07 AM #1410
      I'm surprised it's made it so many pages, happy though .

      I don't have carbs or a VW right now, but I still check it every day, lol.
      Negative scene points

    11. Member woodrowstar's Avatar
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      09-28-2012 04:49 PM #1411
      Quote Originally Posted by B4S View Post
      I'm surprised it's made it so many pages, happy though .

      I don't have carbs or a VW right now, but I still check it every day, lol.
      You and me both! Ha, I just returned home from my bicycle ride around the USA. Now it is time for some carb action!

    12. Member B4S's Avatar
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      09-28-2012 06:40 PM #1412
      Welcome back!
      Negative scene points

    13. Member M dub's Avatar
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      09-29-2012 04:27 PM #1413
      I may as well post mine.

      I like carbs but I think I am going to switch to injection with ITB's

    14. Member impulse byer's Avatar
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      09-30-2012 11:33 AM #1414
      [QUOTE=prom king

      Last night I played a little with the mixture screws waiting for my new jets. I have it set to 8BTDC I think I'm going to move it to like 12, it's still starting a little hard.

      But otherwise, its running and idling great. No burps or hesitation I can tell now.[/QUOTE]

      Miss my rocco so much. Glad all parts live on in a new red mk2 rocco

      from 3 years ago had bigger cams at the time made the motor sorta flat still did 150whp. swapped back to the shricks after that.


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      09-30-2012 08:39 PM #1415
      way to go with the webers. you are spot on in increasing the timing. after that, dont just fiddle with the mixture screws, set them according to what your motor wants. set them all at 21/2 turns out ( as long as they are the spanish made webers ), then, starting with the first cylinder, turn the mixture screw in 1/4 turn. if nothing happens with the rpm's, turn it in another 1/4 turn. when the rpm's drop, turn the mixture screw back out 1/4 turn. now go to #2, and so on. when you are done, reset your idle and then rebalance to make sure the left carb and the right carb are flowing the same. you may know all of this but if you had your motor set at 8 degrees then maybe you dont. they need a bit more timing. just trying to help.

    16. Member prom king's Avatar
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      09-30-2012 08:58 PM #1416
      Quote Originally Posted by candm View Post
      way to go with the webers. you are spot on in increasing the timing. after that, dont just fiddle with the mixture screws, set them according to what your motor wants. set them all at 21/2 turns out ( as long as they are the spanish made webers ), then, starting with the first cylinder, turn the mixture screw in 1/4 turn. if nothing happens with the rpm's, turn it in another 1/4 turn. when the rpm's drop, turn the mixture screw back out 1/4 turn. now go to #2, and so on. when you are done, reset your idle and then rebalance to make sure the left carb and the right carb are flowing the same. you may know all of this but if you had your motor set at 8 degrees then maybe you dont. they need a bit more timing. just trying to help.
      I appreciate it ypu guys are all far more knowledgeable then me im still learning. Right now im jetted incorrectly and need to advance my timing. I measured my air correctors with a weber feeler guage i inherited from an old guy lol. They are drilled out to 210. I ordered 180s and new 55F9 idles my mains are at 150 currently.
      When i hold at 3500 i lean out completely ( which im pretty sure is the air correctot) so ill repprt back when im 12 degrees btdc and jetted a little more in spec.

      Impluse did you ever read your a/f when you dynoed? I think you were a little lean and could have madeba little more power.

    17. Member impulse byer's Avatar
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      09-30-2012 10:45 PM #1417
      I ran 12 degrees initial timing. I would see 13-1 on my a/f sometimes 13.5 if it was cooler out fall/spring wot 7500rpm

    18. Member
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      10-01-2012 08:38 AM #1418
      Quote Originally Posted by prom king View Post
      I appreciate it ypu guys are all far more knowledgeable then me im still learning. Right now im jetted incorrectly and need to advance my timing. I measured my air correctors with a weber feeler guage i inherited from an old guy lol. They are drilled out to 210. I ordered 180s and new 55F9 idles my mains are at 150 currently.
      When i hold at 3500 i lean out completely ( which im pretty sure is the air correctot) so ill repprt back when im 12 degrees btdc and jetted a little more in spec.

      Impluse did you ever read your a/f when you dynoed? I think you were a little lean and could have madeba little more power.
      at 3500 rpms, you are using the main jet

    19. Member prom king's Avatar
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      10-01-2012 09:34 AM #1419
      Quote Originally Posted by candm View Post
      at 3500 rpms, you are using the main jet
      Yeah, but doesn't the air corrector have an effect on the main jet if it's to lean of an air corrector? I know at 3k the main jet kicks in, but doesn't the air corrector have some sort of effect on the main jet?

    20. Member
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      10-01-2012 05:57 PM #1420
      Quote Originally Posted by prom king View Post
      Yeah, but doesn't the air corrector have an effect on the main jet if it's to lean of an air corrector? I know at 3k the main jet kicks in, but doesn't the air corrector have some sort of effect on the main jet?
      not at 3500 rpm. say at about 5000-5500, when your air corrector jet starts coming into play,then an overly rich or lean main jet may influence the transition

    21. Member B4S's Avatar
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      10-02-2012 10:44 AM #1421
      ^^
      The main air really comes into it's own once you've reached the point where the engine is using all the reserve fuel in the emulsion tube well. That's when it's effect is strongest.
      Negative scene points

    22. 10-03-2012 02:30 PM #1422
      Quote Originally Posted by M dub View Post
      I may as well post mine.

      I like carbs but I think I am going to switch to injection with ITB's
      What linkage is that?

    23. Member ncbrock's Avatar
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      10-03-2012 06:10 PM #1423
      looks like the one redline\weber sells.

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      10-03-2012 06:48 PM #1424
      i have the same ! got it from dellorto's website

    25. Member IRDangerDave's Avatar
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      10-03-2012 09:11 PM #1425
      BTW, ditch the fram filter. Stick with OE (Bosch or Meyle) or even Purolator filters. Fram tends to be very rerestrictive and can actually cause oil starvation in extreme instances (IE: high rpm usage). Not a big deal on a the average lightly driven daily, but in a hard-driven carbed car with hydraulic lifters... well... ask someone who has used one on a motorcycle to see their repair bill
      Someday soon my friends, this ride will come to an end - but we can't just get in line again.

      ( I got a new MkII for you all to make fun of )

    26. Member prom king's Avatar
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      10-04-2012 12:02 PM #1426
      Boo, pulled my idle jet and the holder that holds the jet was cracked Waiting till tomorrow when I get the new holder

    27. 10-04-2012 01:07 PM #1427


      Is this the SPA manifold?



      What intake manifold do people prefer for the counterflow 8 valves in regards to ease of installation, changing of jets, syncing the carbs, etc..? I won't be removing the raintray, so its a tight fit.

      I might be able to get one of these style manifolds fairly cheap (pictured below). Would it be the same manifold for the 40mm DCOE's and 45mm's?

      Also, here are the specs I'd like to go with for my carb'd engine build:

      2.0L aba block, balanced
      Solid lifter head, ported and polished, oversized TT valves, dual valve springs with titanium retainers and 7mm valve guides
      306* TT cam
      Adjustable cam gear & lightweight intermediate shaft pulley
      Compression will be around 11:1
      1 5/8 header

      Any thoughts for exhaust size?

      Now for carbs, I have access to some 40mm DCOE's but I'm thinking I might want to step up to 45's. What are your thoughts? Jetting thoughts? or 40/44/48 mm IDF's?

      New to the carb thing, but looking forward to getting this build underway!

      Thanks!


    28. Member ncbrock's Avatar
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      10-04-2012 05:35 PM #1428
      id for sure run 45's with that setup, sounds like a monster

    29. Member B4S's Avatar
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      10-04-2012 08:17 PM #1429
      Most of the counterflow manifolds I ever had were definitely only for 40mm carbs. They would need to be ported for 45s.
      Negative scene points

    30. 10-04-2012 09:00 PM #1430
      Quote Originally Posted by B4S View Post
      Most of the counterflow manifolds I ever had were definitely only for 40mm carbs. They would need to be ported for 45s.
      OK! Perfect, thanks!

      I think I'm going to go for the intake that uses side draft webers. It seems to be a much better way to go with the flow from the carbs into the engine being more direct.

    31. Member M dub's Avatar
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      10-06-2012 03:29 AM #1431
      Quote Originally Posted by Stephan Schmidt View Post
      What linkage is that?
      http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/pm3714.htm
      Quote Originally Posted by IRDangerDave View Post
      BTW, ditch the fram filter. Stick with OE (Bosch or Meyle) or even Purolator filters. Fram tends to be very rerestrictive and can actually cause oil starvation in extreme instances (IE: high rpm usage). Not a big deal on a the average lightly driven daily, but in a hard-driven carbed car with hydraulic lifters... well... ask someone who has used one on a motorcycle to see their repair bill
      I have a CM filter for it but I've been lazy and haven't ordered new filters for it so I'm buying cheap filters till I stop being lazy.

    32. Member prom king's Avatar
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      10-06-2012 09:10 AM #1432
      Tried the F955 Id jets, looks like I'm going to have to go bigger, I'm about 4-5 turns out before I could get the engine to run.

      I think I should try F860s next.

    33. Member ncbrock's Avatar
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      10-06-2012 04:53 PM #1433
      more awesomeness

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      10-07-2012 10:09 AM #1434
      Quote Originally Posted by prom king View Post
      Tried the F955 Id jets, looks like I'm going to have to go bigger, I'm about 4-5 turns out before I could get the engine to run.

      I think I should try F860s next.
      when you change your idle jet, i would not change both parts at the same time. in otherwords, go up to a 60, but leave the same airbleed ( F9 ). once you get to the point where youare about 13/4-31/4 turns out, then, if it is still a little lean or rich, change to an idle jet with the same number but with the different airbleed portion. by changing both the fuel portion and the airbleed at the same time, you may fix 1 part and screw up the other.make sure that your timing is right before changing your jetting, or you may be wasting time and money trying to jet it properly

    35. Member prom king's Avatar
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      10-07-2012 07:32 PM #1435
      Quote Originally Posted by candm View Post
      when you change your idle jet, i would not change both parts at the same time. in otherwords, go up to a 60, but leave the same airbleed ( F9 ). once you get to the point where youare about 13/4-31/4 turns out, then, if it is still a little lean or rich, change to an idle jet with the same number but with the different airbleed portion. by changing both the fuel portion and the airbleed at the same time, you may fix 1 part and screw up the other.make sure that your timing is right before changing your jetting, or you may be wasting time and money trying to jet it properly
      I understand completely what you're trying to say and I appreciate it I've reached the point where I feel comfortable with my timing. I am 12 BDTC at idle. Thank you for the help with the idle jets, I'm going to be ordering F960s tomorrow.
      The other thing I wanted to ask about is, I'm still pulling straight 7s across the board on idle @ 900 on the syncrometer. Is that to much?

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