Got the fuel feed just about done, I mounted the FPR today, now I need a hose barb end and I am done.
yes sir. although the advancement on the dizzy will not be functionable, seeing as how i cant seem to find out where ported vacuum is. i can see the hole just behind the throttle flap but does not exit to the outside of the carbs.
Last edited by yorgerg; 05-01-2012 at 09:34 AM.
I'm debating whether to add a map sensor to my msd programmable setup to get some economy back or pick up a dirt cheap megajolt setup fs right now. I havnt even been driving the car that long and its going through gas like crazy and I'm trying to keep my foot out of it
Fuel lines are all installed and tightened, waitin on a stud from INA and the serp setup will be complete, as well waitin on a set of slimline 16V fans from a buddy and she is runnin, I didn't like the look of the white shroud so I'm goin with the black powder coated one instead.
Thanks! That's what I thought, I did the coolant lines in red first, then when I decided to replumb the oil cooler I went for the red lines there too. If I had the dough I'd buy some red Samco hoses to finish it off but unfortunately I'm done sinkin anymore money into her this season.
been slowly tunning my carbs better and better. With my airbox I made the added\more directed airflow to the carbs is screwing up my non-filter tunning. With the filters on it runs top notch all around but when I take them off (the way I want to run them) the added airflow is making it lean stumble on light throttle all around the rpm range.
Most people run the msd stuff to help with starting (retarding the timing) and to get fuel economy back (retarded timing under 3k)
She's altogether, gotta grab two more bolts for the oil pan, havin hell gettin the two bolts closet to the tranny on the oil pan in, there's no room at all, I've tried all kindsa methods. As well once she's runnin and aligned I gotta get the flange welded in the down pipe for the crank case ventilation and I will put the Moroso V/C on.
maybe this is a stupid question, but does it matter which way a 32/36 DFEV sits on the manifold? just put mine on today and noticed it will mount in either direction. only problem i can see so far is that the elec. choke and the idle speed screw aren't very accessible. I've seen it mounted both ways on this thread alone, anyone have an answer? thanks in advance!
Ideally, you want the 36mm bore at the back of the manifold, facing the firewall. The 32/36 comes in different variations, DFAV, DGEV, DGAV, etc, and each one is oriented a different way. Some have fuel inlet on one side, some have it on the other, some have a water choke, some have electric, etc.
No idea really, that's just the way I've always seen them oriented. Could have something to do with WOT fuel flow/dispersion, but I've never really thought about it. Could also be that the smaller bore would be closer to the hottest part of the manifold, so the fuel would atomize better at cruise?
Scored this old carter inline filter for $2, with an extra bowl.
ok folks, i've got a few issues with my 32/36 DFEV...i think
i've tuned it to run at lean best idle according to the instructions on the piercemanifolds website. everything is within specifications as far as idle mix screw and idle speed screw and the number of turns that they're screwed in. so my problem is that the AFR gauge i have is still reading rich....
it's kind of blurred, but the needle sits at that spot or higher into the rich zone regardless of the current engine speed, whether i'm just idling or at WOT. as you can tell by the pic, it's just a narrowband o2 sensor and gauge so i understand that it's not as accurate as a wideband is, however, i assumed a narrowband would do the trick since i only need a reading without the ability to adjust fuel trim like a wideband would. are these narrowband sensors and gauges inaccurate? can i trust the reading on it? i pulled the standard shielded wire out of my old fuel injected system and it's on a good ground so there shouldn't be any interference anywhere. also, i just noticed tonight that the needle on the gauge drops more towards "optimal" when i have more electrical equipment on...i.e.- when my blower motor fan is on high it reads pretty much normal or just a hair above "optimal." does that mean i am getting interference somewhere?
other things to note:
-the exhaust coming out the pipe varies in smell from a rich smell to a normal smell. this is well after the engine has heated up and the choke has long been wide open/off.
-the jets that came with the carb are still in there, nothing has been changed because the best idle conditions were all within specs.
-timing was initially adjusted to proper specs when i finished the engine rebuild and was adjusted a second time to proper specs after the carb was installed. it's currently running on it's standard vacuum advance timing which is linked straight to the port on the carb. (still trying to find time to get my EDIS set up mounted-where can i get new shielded wire for that?)
-regardless of the "rich" condition, it seems to run rather well, although my fuel economy went down the crapper which is another reason why i'd like to get this figured out. the carb is only on its first tank but i think i'm only averaging about 18-22 which is piss poor in my book. otherwise there are only a few flat spots on hard accel from cruise which i'm hoping the megajolt will take care of.
-lastly, i haven't gone the old fashion route yet and removed the plugs to check their condition. that's the next step...
so any input is much appreciated. worst case scenario, i put in smaller jets and test them out by checking my plugs after a few drives. just want to make sure i'm not missing anything though.
A narrowband O2 is only accurate when being used to measure for stoich (14.7:1), anything outside that voltage (.5v usually) and the gauge will only read rich or lean. It could be at 14:1, and the gauge will read rich. It could be at 15:1, and it will read lean. They're really only good for monitoring cruise fueling, if you aim for 14.7:1. I wouldn't trust it for anything other than that specific AFR.
So, yes, they really are horribly inaccurate .
I've found that ANY guage will start to read lower when the amperage use of the car increases, so I try to wire them all on their own 12v source. Narrowband O2 gauges are especially sensitive to this, since they do not have dedicated signal conditioners/controllers like wideband O2s do. Again, very inaccurate .
Last edited by B4S; 06-21-2012 at 09:10 AM.
i'd just be getting the basic one and both are basically the same price...
I have an NGK one, not a big fan of Innovate products. I've never worked with GlowShift stuff, but it seems cheezy to me. Personal opinion mind you, I could be wrong.
woops, sorry for the false accusation. i must be remember a different post...Originally Posted by B4S
Help save the Boobies!! Dub 'N Rub VW/Audi Show & Shine to benefit breast cancer research.
Been a while the thread is dead.
I'm searching for some information I'm looking in old posts etc....
I'm looking for a nice laid out diagram for the CIS-E Ignition for the time being. I received an MSD setup in my kit I picked up, but I have to send it back to MSD because I couldn't get it to spark.
In the time being, can anyone lend me a hand with a diagram of the knockbox wiring everyone speaks so highly off in this thread?
And for this? I need a vac advance distributor from what year saab? Also what is the test lead for ? Thank you.
Awesome, and the vacuum for the knock box, I can tap that into the brake booster?