The all carb diet.

[candm]

I understand completely what you're trying to say and I appreciate it I've reached the point where I feel comfortable with my timing. I am 12 BDTC at idle. Thank you for the help with the idle jets, I'm going to be ordering F960s tomorrow.
The other thing I wanted to ask about is, I'm still pulling straight 7s across the board on idle @ 900 on the syncrometer. Is that to much?

are your idle bypass screws turned in all the way? anyway, on my motor with 288 cams and 12.8-1 compression, flows just under 6 and that is with the idle set at 1300. your #s seem fine. it is just a difference of how your motor is set up, cams, compression, etc.

[prom king]

are your idle bypass screws turned in all the way? anyway, on my motor with 288 cams and 12.8-1 compression, flows just under 6 and that is with the idle set at 1300. your #s seem fine. it is just a difference of how your motor is set up, cams, compression, etc.

Yeah, they even have that locking cap installed on them.



These are also both 3 progression hole carbs. To my understanding the newer ones have 4 holes?

[candm]

you can buy either. mine are the 3 hole also

[hantonyc]

i have the 4 holes version, i dont really see a difference with my older 3 holes.

[onebdgti]

Ok this may sound like a dumb question but were are you guys getting you rebuild kits for you dual Webers, jets and other parts for the carbs. I bought some carbs 2 years ago and put them on the shelf and I am finally getting around to putting the on my 84 GTI.

[ncbrock]

ive always ordered my weber parts from racetep.com they have everything you could need and ship super fast, no complaints

[candm]

like he said above or www.piercemanifolds.com

[prom king]

Okay still playing with my idle/air mixture screws
9A Bottom End
PL 16v head with some work 276 Schrick Cams ported etc
Raceland Header 2.5 all the way back.
Running Digital 6plus, with the MSD 8980 Timing computer,
Idle timing is set to 12 BTDC
I have a Adjustable Cam Gear, but I haven't touched it yet...
My Fuel Pressure is set and regulated to 3.5

My problem. I can't get the idle/mixture to set in 2-3 screws. I always have to go 4-5 out, I've tried a lot of different idle jets. I just recently tried F965s last night and I would have thought that .5 turn out I would be rich... or 1-2 turns I would be really rich, but no I put it 4-5 out, and I'm the same with all the other idle jets I have. So obviously I have a problem. At 4 turns out, the air fuel is 12-13 no hesitation and actually runs and sounds great. On WOT it'll hesitate for half a second and then go, the hestiation is barely noticable.

I'm drawing on the Sycn tool 7 across all four carbs at 900 idle. Should I try and adjust the butterfly to get them to draw less at idle?

Right now I have
150 Mains, 180 Airs, F16 Tubes, 45 Pump Jets, 36 Chokes. I have F955 Idle Jets, F855 Idle Jets, and F965s.... I bought those as a test... I ordered F655's from Redline but they won't be here for a few days.

I popped the white cap on the air bypass screws, and they were all screwed all the way in.

Air leaks... I'm going to check for air leaks... I'm prob going to order a new soft mount o-ring kit just to have it around.

Float Height is the only thing I can honestly say I haven't personally checked myself. What is the correct float height?

Anybody have any ideas?

[candm]

you measure with the gasket in place holding the top cover. when the are hanging vertical and touch the ball that moves the needle, the # should be 12mm. when they are hanging away from the cover, the # should be 26mm. what chokes are in the carbs and are they new or used?

[prom king]

you measure with the gasket in place holding the top cover. when the are hanging vertical and touch the ball that moves the needle, the # should be 12mm. when they are hanging away from the cover, the # should be 26mm. what chokes are in the carbs and are they new or used?

36 chokes and used.

[candm]

there was a guy on here that had the auxilliary venturis in backwards. it is possible to do on webers. i cant remember if he was running lean or rich but you might check those. the carbs will have to be pulled so you might as well replace the soft mounts while you are at it. sometimes with old webers they will develop a leak at the throttle shaft bushings but i would wait til you have tried all else. bad needle and seat maybe. the way you have your motor setup, 36 chokes should be fine. you shouldnt have to be out 4-5 turns on your mixture screws.what i have found is that if you are within the range of jets , whether idle, main, or air, and you still have problems, then it is time to look at a different emulsion tube but that is only if everything is ok with the carb and related parts.

[woodrowstar]

Anybody have any ideas?

Man, this is wrecking my brain, too.

[hantonyc]

there was a guy on here that had the auxilliary venturis in backwards. it is possible to do on webers. i cant remember if he was running lean or rich but you might check those. the carbs will have to be pulled so you might as well replace the soft mounts while you are at it. sometimes with old webers they will develop a leak at the throttle shaft bushings but i would wait til you have tried all else. bad needle and seat maybe. the way you have your motor setup, 36 chokes should be fine. you shouldnt have to be out 4-5 turns on your mixture screws.what i have found is that if you are within the range of jets , whether idle, main, or air, and you still have problems, then it is time to look at a different emulsion tube but that is only if everything is ok with the carb and related parts.

im leaning toward air leak too , when you do the test with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. rpm shouldnt change at all , be sure to have put some kind of right stuff on the intake gasket or it will leak 80% of the time , also look if your intake flange is wraped, happened couple of time with used weber kit, also needle valve are not to pricey, worth the try IMO , also i always ran f16 tubes without any problems, so i dont think thats his problem.

[prom king]

im leaning toward air leak too , when you do the test with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. rpm shouldnt change at all , be sure to have put some kind of right stuff on the intake gasket or it will leak 80% of the time , also look if your intake flange is wraped, happened couple of time with used weber kit, also needle valve are not to pricey, worth the try IMO , also i always ran f16 tubes without any problems, so i dont think thats his problem.

I ordered the soft mount kit from redline today.
When you say intake manifold gasket? You mean the one inbetween the head and the manifold correct? If so what kind of sealant ot gasket silicone did you use? I've only ever used that copper spray on stacking headgaskets.

[hantonyc]

yeah that gasket, use rightstuff.

[prom king]

Last night I had a few mintues to check a few things.

I confirmed I have an airleak from my rubber mounts. I'll report back after I get my new gaskets. But I'm going to have to take my carbs off from the manifold.
I'm going to do a while your at it, and change the needle and seat.
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/79503.200.htm
This the correct size?

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/98.0178.00.htm

Also picking up one of these to measure my floats.

[woodrowstar]

I'm going to do a while your at it, and change the needle and seat.

STOP!! Just address the air leak first.

You are trying to diagnosis a problem. Do not go throwing more variables into the equation. Eliminate one at a time.

also, if your soft mounts require O-rings- I find stock thermostat gasket is the same diameter and thicker.

[prom king]

STOP!! Just address the air leak first.

You are trying to diagnosis a problem. Do not go throwing more variables into the equation. Eliminate one at a time.

also, if your soft mounts require O-rings- I find stock thermostat gasket is the same diameter and thicker.

Yeah I agree. I'll take it one step at a time, and eliminate the air leaks first. I'll give those a look at, I have a bunch of those o-rings. Thank you.

[candm]

Yeah I agree. I'll take it one step at a time, and eliminate the air leaks first. I'll give those a look at, I have a bunch of those o-rings. Thank you.

woodrowstar is right. 1 thing at a time. i thought you had already ruled out an air leak and so i was trying to figure out other possibilities. looking at that picture of your carbs now i can see that you are missing 1 of the cup washers on the right as well as the rubber bushing looks old and cracked. that style is called a cosworth style with the rubber bushing and cup washers in between the nut and carb. there is also a thackery ( spring washer ) you can use. i also see in that pic that you are using a misab style soft mount. i never did like those. alot of people dont like the plastic softmounts with the orings, but that is what i use along with the thackery washers. it is really important to tighten the carb mounting nuts equally. if you go with the thackery washers, tighten all the nuts by hand, then turn 1 nut 1 full turn and go to the next one and so on. you stop when they just get tight, but not torqued. at this point the spring washer will just about be compressed. now, go back and turn each 1 back out 1/2-3/4 of a turn. i have done this numerous times without problems

[prom king]

woodrowstar is right. 1 thing at a time. i thought you had already ruled out an air leak and so i was trying to figure out other possibilities. looking at that picture of your carbs now i can see that you are missing 1 of the cup washers on the right as well as the rubber bushing looks old and cracked. that style is called a cosworth style with the rubber bushing and cup washers in between the nut and carb. there is also a thackery ( spring washer ) you can use. i also see in that pic that you are using a misab style soft mount. i never did like those. alot of people dont like the plastic softmounts with the orings, but that is what i use along with the thackery washers. it is really important to tighten the carb mounting nuts equally. if you go with the thackery washers, tighten all the nuts by hand, then turn 1 nut 1 full turn and go to the next one and so on. you stop when they just get tight, but not torqued. at this point the spring washer will just about be compressed. now, go back and turn each 1 back out 1/2-3/4 of a turn. i have done this numerous times without problems

Well I got lucky today


These came in the mail.

[candm]

before you fire it up again, i would switch back to theF955 idles and 155 main, then tune from there

[IRDangerDave]

Just found this in classifieds. Figured one of you crazy kids might be interested

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-8v-full-setup

[prom king]

Chokes are installed the correct way, they were facing out with the 36 easily seen.

You were correct and I had the MISAB gaskets installed, I actually think they weren't torqued down and thats why they were leaking. The nuts weren't very tight and those rubber mounts were shot.
I took some time to really inspect the carbs inside and out, the insides were very clean, (not like some of the motorcycle carbs I've ultrasoniced lately)

I've never used these softmounts before. Just to clarify I'm going to be installing them correctly. You tighten the nut till it makes contact with the thackery washer making sure all the nuts are equal across the board... then once it makes contact and is tighten, you go back out about 1/2 a turn?

[candm]

Chokes are installed the correct way, they were facing out with the 36 easily seen.

You were correct and I had the MISAB gaskets installed, I actually think they weren't torqued down and thats why they were leaking. The nuts weren't very tight and those rubber mounts were shot.
I took some time to really inspect the carbs inside and out, the insides were very clean, (not like some of the motorcycle carbs I've ultrasoniced lately)

I've never used these softmounts before. Just to clarify I'm going to be installing them correctly. You tighten the nut till it makes contact with the thackery washer making sure all the nuts are equal across the board... then once it makes contact and is tighten, you go back out about 1/2 a turn?

incorrectus. you tighten them past the point where they first make contact, and, as per the info i left (well, im tryin to help someone here ).

[prom king]

Sorry was replying to your post on my phone and didn't exactly put what I was trying to say clear. I reread your instructions and I understand better now after I read it again.

[Stephan Schmidt]

So I'm building my MK1 Jetta and working on the engine bay and will be running dual Mikuni Phh 44's on a counter flow head.

Question for all of you with a similar set up:

Should I keep the raintray or not?

If it makes everything a lot easier to access and work better for tuning, I'll do it. If you've never noticed a problem and don't mind it there I might keep it.

Let me know what you guys have experienced!

Thanks, Stephan

[B4S]

It makes no difference, in my experience. The firewall is the limiting factor, not the raintray.

[Antikrist~86CGT~]

So I'm putting the 5 cylinder coupe back together, and while attempting to R+R the distributor, the fukker practically exploded on me I have a good distributor from a 5 cylinder turbo that I'd like to use, but it doesn't have the vac advance diaphragm like my old one. Will this be an issue?? can I run this one without any headaches? Any input would be greatly appreciated, as I'm really trying to get this done before the new year.

[prom king]

So... When you look through the progression holes with the engine off... Where should the butterfly be in retrospect to the progression hole? Right before correct? I'm just double checking everything.

I'm going to be checking float height tonight, finally got myself a digital caliber.

Another question if someone could clear this up for me.
Balancing carbs...


I think my carbs are balanced incorrectly, drawing to much air. I just want confirmation I'm doing it correctly.

The Second screw in the picture one to the right... should be 1 turn into just making contact correct? The same with the middle? Mine were both halfway and pulling about 6-7 on my sync tool.

[woodrowstar]

Yes and no. Balancing - no. Syncing - yes.

[candm]

So... When you look through the progression holes with the engine off... Where should the butterfly be in retrospect to the progression hole? Right before correct? I'm just double checking everything.

I'm going to be checking float height tonight, finally got myself a digital caliber.

Another question if someone could clear this up for me.
Balancing carbs...


I think my carbs are balanced incorrectly, drawing to much air. I just want confirmation I'm doing it correctly.

The Second screw in the picture one to the right... should be 1 turn into just making contact correct? The same with the middle? Mine were both halfway and pulling about 6-7 on my sync tool.

to start with getting balanced,back out both screws until neither is touching the levers. turn in your main idle screw (the 1 on the right ) until it just makes contact with the lever. now turn the other screw ( the 1 on the left ) until it just touches the lever. now go back to the main idle screw and turn it in 1/2 turn. now fire up your car, get the approximate idle with the main idle screw, then use your airflow meter to bring the second carb, using the balancing screw ( the 1 on the left ) to what the first carb is flowing. just use the inner bore on each carb for this. you shouldnt have to be out on the main idle screw more than about 3/4 of a turn. most of the weber books say to do this with the linkage disconnected, but if you know that your throttle shafts and linkage is not sticking, then i usually leave everything connected

[VdubyaVR6]

Having some trouble getting my carb swap to fire up. I'll see if I can get some advice from you guys. I actually posted in here back around page 10 when I first got my stuff..

I have 3.5 psi to my FPR. When I open the throttle I can see the pump jets squirting fuel into each of the cylinders. My idle mixture screws are 1 1/4 turns out. The throttle linkage screw is about 1/4 turn in from first contact.

Had a friend help me to check spark and we pulled each plug and grounded it against the block to make sure it had good spark.

Jets are as follows..
Mains: 135
Air: 200
Emulsion: F11
Idle: 55F9
Pump: 40

[candm]

Having some trouble getting my carb swap to fire up. I'll see if I can get some advice from you guys. I actually posted in here back around page 10 when I first got my stuff..

I have 3.5 psi to my FPR. When I open the throttle I can see the pump jets squirting fuel into each of the cylinders. My idle mixture screws are 1 1/4 turns out. The throttle linkage screw is about 1/4 turn in from first contact.

Had a friend help me to check spark and we pulled each plug and grounded it against the block to make sure it had good spark.

Jets are as follows..
Mains: 135
Air: 200
Emulsion: F11
Idle: 55F9
Pump: 40

the first thing i would do is change your linkage setup. put that linkage setup on the right carb and get the proper idle lever and balancing screw and lever to make it a center pull setup, between the two carbs. you can run it like you have it but it is not the way that linkage was meant to be setup. if you have spanish webers, start with your idle mixture screws out 21/2 turns, not 11/4. you need about 10 degrees of initial advance for your motor. anyway, good luck

[VdubyaVR6]

Well i'm getting closer. It wants to start but something is just a little off yet.

Ignition timing is about 8 degrees BTDC

http://smg.beta.photobucket.com/user...DC298.mp4.html

[VdubyaVR6]

Well i'm exited to say I got it to finally fire up!!! It won't stay running unless I feather the throttle right now but its running! First time its been started in probably 4 years since I bought the car!