Ok this may sound like a dumb question but were are you guys getting you rebuild kits for you dual Webers, jets and other parts for the carbs. I bought some carbs 2 years ago and put them on the shelf and I am finally getting around to putting the on my 84 GTI.
Okay still playing with my idle/air mixture screws
9A Bottom End
PL 16v head with some work 276 Schrick Cams ported etc
Raceland Header 2.5 all the way back.
Running Digital 6plus, with the MSD 8980 Timing computer,
Idle timing is set to 12 BTDC
I have a Adjustable Cam Gear, but I haven't touched it yet...
My Fuel Pressure is set and regulated to 3.5
My problem. I can't get the idle/mixture to set in 2-3 screws. I always have to go 4-5 out, I've tried a lot of different idle jets. I just recently tried F965s last night and I would have thought that .5 turn out I would be rich... or 1-2 turns I would be really rich, but no I put it 4-5 out, and I'm the same with all the other idle jets I have. So obviously I have a problem. At 4 turns out, the air fuel is 12-13 no hesitation and actually runs and sounds great. On WOT it'll hesitate for half a second and then go, the hestiation is barely noticable.
I'm drawing on the Sycn tool 7 across all four carbs at 900 idle. Should I try and adjust the butterfly to get them to draw less at idle?
Right now I have
150 Mains, 180 Airs, F16 Tubes, 45 Pump Jets, 36 Chokes. I have F955 Idle Jets, F855 Idle Jets, and F965s.... I bought those as a test... I ordered F655's from Redline but they won't be here for a few days.
I popped the white cap on the air bypass screws, and they were all screwed all the way in.
Air leaks... I'm going to check for air leaks... I'm prob going to order a new soft mount o-ring kit just to have it around.
Float Height is the only thing I can honestly say I haven't personally checked myself. What is the correct float height?
Anybody have any ideas?
you measure with the gasket in place holding the top cover. when the are hanging vertical and touch the ball that moves the needle, the # should be 12mm. when they are hanging away from the cover, the # should be 26mm. what chokes are in the carbs and are they new or used?
there was a guy on here that had the auxilliary venturis in backwards. it is possible to do on webers. i cant remember if he was running lean or rich but you might check those. the carbs will have to be pulled so you might as well replace the soft mounts while you are at it. sometimes with old webers they will develop a leak at the throttle shaft bushings but i would wait til you have tried all else. bad needle and seat maybe. the way you have your motor setup, 36 chokes should be fine. you shouldnt have to be out 4-5 turns on your mixture screws.what i have found is that if you are within the range of jets , whether idle, main, or air, and you still have problems, then it is time to look at a different emulsion tube but that is only if everything is ok with the carb and related parts.
Last edited by hantonyc; 10-11-2012 at 09:19 PM.
Last night I had a few mintues to check a few things.
I confirmed I have an airleak from my rubber mounts. I'll report back after I get my new gaskets. But I'm going to have to take my carbs off from the manifold.
I'm going to do a while your at it, and change the needle and seat.
This the correct size?
Also picking up one of these to measure my floats.
Just found this in classifieds. Figured one of you crazy kids might be interested
Someday soon my friends, this ride will come to an end - but we can't just get in line again.
( I got a new MkII for you all to make fun of )
Chokes are installed the correct way, they were facing out with the 36 easily seen.
You were correct and I had the MISAB gaskets installed, I actually think they weren't torqued down and thats why they were leaking. The nuts weren't very tight and those rubber mounts were shot.
I took some time to really inspect the carbs inside and out, the insides were very clean, (not like some of the motorcycle carbs I've ultrasoniced lately)
I've never used these softmounts before. Just to clarify I'm going to be installing them correctly. You tighten the nut till it makes contact with the thackery washer making sure all the nuts are equal across the board... then once it makes contact and is tighten, you go back out about 1/2 a turn?
So I'm building my MK1 Jetta and working on the engine bay and will be running dual Mikuni Phh 44's on a counter flow head.
Question for all of you with a similar set up:
Should I keep the raintray or not?
If it makes everything a lot easier to access and work better for tuning, I'll do it. If you've never noticed a problem and don't mind it there I might keep it.
Let me know what you guys have experienced!
It makes no difference, in my experience. The firewall is the limiting factor, not the raintray.
So I'm putting the 5 cylinder coupe back together, and while attempting to R+R the distributor, the fukker practically exploded on me I have a good distributor from a 5 cylinder turbo that I'd like to use, but it doesn't have the vac advance diaphragm like my old one. Will this be an issue?? can I run this one without any headaches? Any input would be greatly appreciated, as I'm really trying to get this done before the new year.
So... When you look through the progression holes with the engine off... Where should the butterfly be in retrospect to the progression hole? Right before correct? I'm just double checking everything.
I'm going to be checking float height tonight, finally got myself a digital caliber.
Another question if someone could clear this up for me.
I think my carbs are balanced incorrectly, drawing to much air. I just want confirmation I'm doing it correctly.
The Second screw in the picture one to the right... should be 1 turn into just making contact correct? The same with the middle? Mine were both halfway and pulling about 6-7 on my sync tool.
Last edited by prom king; 10-22-2012 at 12:23 PM.
Having some trouble getting my carb swap to fire up. I'll see if I can get some advice from you guys. I actually posted in here back around page 10 when I first got my stuff..
I have 3.5 psi to my FPR. When I open the throttle I can see the pump jets squirting fuel into each of the cylinders. My idle mixture screws are 1 1/4 turns out. The throttle linkage screw is about 1/4 turn in from first contact.
Had a friend help me to check spark and we pulled each plug and grounded it against the block to make sure it had good spark.
Jets are as follows..
Well i'm getting closer. It wants to start but something is just a little off yet.
Ignition timing is about 8 degrees BTDC