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    Thread: Steering Fault - Workshop" message - here's the cause and the solution. [TOC done]

    1. Moderator PanEuropean's Avatar
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      03-12-2010 05:00 PM #36
      Hi Julian:

      The distal ends of the release cables connect to a latch with two captive pucks. The pucks can be released by rotating them 90 degrees within the latch.

      The photo server seems to be down right now, but I believe that there are photos of this assembly on the post "Steering Fault - Workshop" message - here's the cause and the solution.

      Michael


    2. Member JulianBenjamin's Avatar
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      03-12-2010 08:06 PM #37
      Thanks Michael. I'll try this weekend and see if the wires are pinched.
      -Julian

    3. 03-12-2010 08:41 PM #38
      With regard to the issue of corrosion - as someone who has owned several Citroen DS models over the years (yeah, I know, not the same thing) I have to tell you that wires and connectors seem to be able to corrode anywhere in a vehicle - inside, outside, under the hood, in the trunk - I do think that it is likely that the wire insulation has improved substantially since the stuff that Citroen was using in the 1960s and 1970s - but with those cars, you could find corrosion on the copper two or three feet up the wire from the connector end - the wiring fell apart faster than the bottoms of the recycled steel doors. One reason I know about the marine products - rewiring a Citroen DS.

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      03-13-2010 04:50 AM #39
      How true !

      The last time I drove my DS, I saw some smoke coming out of the dash board, just behind the steering wheel. Removed the cover (held by a couple of screws), and the smoke comes from the wiring loom that goes to the dashboard... Didn't take care of it yet, but quite annoying... I'll need to get it to my Citroen dealer (who is a DS/SM/... specialist, so I'm really lucky).

      P.


    5. Member JulianBenjamin's Avatar
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      03-16-2010 02:41 PM #40
      Michael,

      I must be slow, as I still can't figure out how to detach those two cables.

      Another question for you, as the pictures don't really show where that connector goes; does it go under the fuse-panel (if so, is that really all I need to remove), or does it go somewhere further down the steering shaft?

      Thanks again for your input.

      -Julian

    6. Moderator PanEuropean's Avatar
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      03-17-2010 11:08 AM #41
      Hi Julian:

      I found some photos in my collection that might help you out. The first photo (below) shows one of the cables that attaches to the fuse box cover release handle fully assembled (that is the one on the right), and one of the cables partially disassembled (the one on the left).

      All that remains to be done with the cable on the left is to slide the cylinder assembly out via the slot that is visible.

      Note that it is a tricky job to disassemble these cables. It's not difficult, it's just tricky. The black collar assembly around the end of the cables is a friction fit (a snap-fit) into the circular assembly on the release handle. You just gently push it up and out to get it to the partially disassembled state. It is handy to have a metal pick (as shown) to push it up and out, otherwise, you'll bust your fingernail if you try to do it by hand.

      Needless to say, make sure all the plastic parts are warm (room temperature) before taking them apart. Don't try to do the work outside if the vehicle is cold-soaked.

      Michael

      Last edited by PanEuropean; 10-07-2012 at 06:12 AM.

    7. Moderator PanEuropean's Avatar
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      03-17-2010 11:09 AM #42
      The photo below shows the next step in the process, with both of the release cables freed from the handle.

      Michael

      Last edited by PanEuropean; 10-07-2012 at 06:13 AM.

    8. Moderator PanEuropean's Avatar
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      03-17-2010 11:13 AM #43
      Below is a wider angle photo that shows you what the whole assembly looks like after you have removed the fasteners that retain this footwell top cover, but before you begin to disconnect the two cables that are illustrated above.

      Michael

      Last edited by PanEuropean; 10-07-2012 at 06:13 AM.

    9. Member JulianBenjamin's Avatar
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      03-17-2010 12:01 PM #44
      Thanks Michael. Now I can see how to remove it; I wasn't sure how it was connected, but since it's just a snap-in, it should be easy to snap it out. The weather is warmer here in NY these days, so it shouldn't be so bad; if it is, I'll just do it right after I get home when the interior of the car is warmer.
      -Julian

    10. Semi-n00b fprien's Avatar
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      06-02-2010 10:57 PM #45
      Hi Julian.
      I have exactly the same problem. I have to let the Steering Wheel retract fully to avoid the "Steering Fault" message.
      Did the electrical harness thing solve the problem?

      Rgds, Frank Prien

    11. Member JulianBenjamin's Avatar
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      06-03-2010 10:00 AM #46
      Frank,

      Two wires were almost cut through. However I couldn't figure out how to use the new wire connectors, so I did it the old-fashioned way with electrical tape. Works fine now.

      -Julian
      -Julian

    12. Semi-n00b fprien's Avatar
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      06-03-2010 05:05 PM #47
      Thanks Julian, what a releaf. As Michael has told us, then the "Steering Fault" problems are apearently most often related this electrical wirering. I will start to look into it.

      If I against the now favorable ods ends up with huge bill for a new streering column, then I will your all now.

      Rgds, Frank

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      09-01-2010 05:20 PM #48
      Just wanted to thank you guys for the info posted here and everywhere in this forum. This is the place to come for help.

      Had the ¨Steering Defective Workshop¨ message light up over the weekend while running an errand. Impossible to start it so I Left the car overnight. After consulting the forum, I went back retracted the steering and it started up as usual. At least I was able to get it serviced without having to tow it.
      It turned out to be as you guys called it; a couple of wires that got crimped.
      Thanks again!

    14. Moderator PanEuropean's Avatar
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      12-16-2010 09:18 PM #49
      Archival Note: Related discussion - Steering Default Workshop.... Battery change...

      Michael

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      02-02-2011 10:01 AM #50
      Quote Originally Posted by PanEuropean View Post
      The photo below shows the next step in the process, with both of the release cables freed from the handle.

      Michael

      I can't seem to find the exact cables that are causing this issue.
      This being my only ride it's my only way to work and the photos seem to be missing from this part of the thread.

      HELP!!.......

    16. Member WillemBal's Avatar
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      02-02-2011 10:31 AM #51
      Quote Originally Posted by payday View Post
      ... and the photos seem to be missing from this part of the thread
      Start reading from HERE
      You need to put your head almost behind the steering column to see these three wires and connector. Use a small mirror and a torch.
      Success!

      Willem

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      02-02-2011 11:23 AM #52
      Quote Originally Posted by WillemBal View Post
      Start reading from HERE
      You need to put your head almost behind the steering column to see these three wires and connector. Use a small mirror and a torch.
      Success!

      Willem
      About to try for the 3rd time, hope I see it.

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      02-02-2011 11:30 AM #53
      Quote Originally Posted by payday View Post
      About to try for the 3rd time, hope I see it.
      I just felt a wire that completely split in 2 but it seems that I have to remove some of the other panels to really get to it. is this true.

    19. Member WillemBal's Avatar
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      02-02-2011 11:43 AM #54
      Quote Originally Posted by payday View Post
      I just felt a wire that completely split in 2 but it seems that I have to remove some of the other panels to really get to it. is this true.
      Hi Payday (funny first name!)
      Yes, you have to remove several panels. Just start with moving your seat back all the way (that should still work). Then you will have more space to move. Next, the first panel to be removed is a fairly wide one, about knee height when you were sitting in the car. Then remove all the panels which are necessary to get to the lower right corner, right above the gas pedal. I suggest that you print out those photo's first, so that you will have some reference while you are doing it.

      The last panel is the actual footwell panel. What looks like tissue, is in fact sound absorbing material. In this photo, you can still see the big panel in place. The technician who did the work for me, in fact first removed the big panel just above it.






      In the end, you should be able to pull that connector towards you as indicated on the photo. You need to use repair wires to fix it permanently, as indicated in the referenced posts.
      Success!
      Willem
      Last edited by WillemBal; 02-02-2011 at 11:59 AM.

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      02-02-2011 12:07 PM #55
      finally got to it.
      They don't make it easy to get to anything on this car (ie oil filter).
      the green wire snapped off in the connector.
      about to get my splice on and get this thing back on the road.
      It's the connector that directly plugs into the steering wheel which I probably wore our because I sit as far back as possible and the steering wheel all the way extended.
      Anyway the pictures make it look like you can repair it without totally removing that lower panel but you must to repair the wire without removing the steering wheel and all the plastic around it.
      Also remove the AC vent under the lower panel at the back of the steering wheel.
      I'll update when and take pics.

      Thanks again for your help.

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      02-02-2011 01:49 PM #56
      All Done,
      Car starts. didn't take it for a ride yet but should be good.
      The way the wires are routed for this steering column plugin and the lack of slack would cause this issue on any Phaeton where the owner has his steering wheel set away from the dash. It's just a matter of when.

      Thanks again Willem.

    22. Moderator PanEuropean's Avatar
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      02-02-2011 09:28 PM #57
      I think that this problem was corrected towards the end of MY 2004 production. It has shown up numerous times on MY 2003 and early production MY 2004 cars.

      It appears that the cars didn't leave the factory with this problem - the problem arises after the cover under the driver footwell has been removed once (for whatever purpose). It is possible that this particular part of the wiring harness has not been secured in such a way that keeps it out of harm's way when the cover is then replaced.

      Michael
      Please don't send me technical questions via IM - instead, post your questions onto the end of the most appropriate thread in the FAQ, so that everyone can benefit from the answer, and everyone can assist in providing the answer. Thanks, Michael

    23. Member WillemBal's Avatar
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      02-03-2011 02:44 PM #58
      Quote Originally Posted by PanEuropean View Post
      It appears that the cars didn't leave the factory with this problem - the problem arises after the cover under the driver footwell has been removed once (for whatever purpose).
      For what particular purpose would a technician ever want to remove this footwell cover - other than repairing these broken wires?
      Willem

    24. Moderator PanEuropean's Avatar
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      02-03-2011 03:29 PM #59
      For access to many other components, for example, the HVAC controller, or the hood release mechanism, or as a prerequsite to removing the trim along the side of the transmission tunnel...

      Michael
      Please don't send me technical questions via IM - instead, post your questions onto the end of the most appropriate thread in the FAQ, so that everyone can benefit from the answer, and everyone can assist in providing the answer. Thanks, Michael

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      03-16-2011 06:40 PM #60
      I have a new problem!

      I have had the warning come up from time to time and a small movement of the wheel has allowed the car to start up...... not yesterday!!!!!!!!!! I removed the foot well and the fuse panel to expose the 3 wire connector in the bottom of the wheel, it had been repaired before, it now had 3 yellow wires attached to the purple, green and black/orange. So I spliced in new wires and no go, so I took it all apart and opened the bundle the 3 wires came from to look for damage and then re spliced the wires again and still no go,( very frustrating upside down under the wheel) the warning is still coming up. Is there a jumper I can use to fool the car??

      Mike

    26. Member WillemBal's Avatar
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      03-16-2011 07:05 PM #61
      Are you sure that you get the identical message: STEERING DEFECTIVE - WORKSHOP?

      Coincidentally, I had a discussion last week at the dealer with their service manager, following a letter in which I expressed my concerns about some service issues. These issues included the inability of the "mobility warranty" service people to properly unlock the steering wheel while it was towed on a flat bed as well as some other issues.
      It was a pleasant conversation, during which the service manager admitted to me that their service technician should have been able to diagnose the problem by himself, if only he had been looking into their HST (Handbook Service Technique). Based on the fault description, he could have found the bulletin describing the symptoms and cause of the problem.
      To my surprise, the problem is not caused by movement of the drivers foot, or by removing and reassembly of the footwell cover. According to the bulletin, the fracture of the wires is caused by repeated movement of the steering wheel column. Most of us probably have enabled the automatic retraction of the steering wheel. That movement causes repeated stress and fatigue of the conductors and insulation, in the end resulting in fracture of one or more wires.

      Since the wires were already repaired, I suspect that the same wires are fractured at some other location. You may want to contact your dealer when your are not able to permanently fix the problem. The case is described in great detail with nice pictures in HST 2022361/1. The release date is 12 March 2010.

      Success,
      Willem

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      03-16-2011 07:08 PM #62
      I will tap into the wires farther "up stream" and see if I get the same results. Thanks for the fast reply.

      Mike

    28. Member WillemBal's Avatar
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      03-16-2011 07:47 PM #63
      Hi Mike,
      Farther upstream, the wires tap into a wire harness. Perhaps one of the repair wires was not properly done, or one of the wires was fitted with too much insulation still on the wire etc. With these 3 repair wires fitted, there are now 9 possible bad connections. Did you try pulling each wire to see whether each of them is properly seated? When this doesn't help finding the problem, you might want to measure some resistances. It is not a very comfortable space over there...
      Willem

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      03-17-2011 05:16 PM #64
      OK so now I'm piling wood around the Phaeton so I can BURN it

      No No not going to burn it, just a thought.

      I have re wired the 3 wires five times now, chased them up stream, they pass the tug test and still No Go. How can I check the module the 3 wires go into? How do I get the car out of park to move it off the road?? Is there a jumper I can fool the car with??

      I live 5 hours from the nearest VW dealer, 9 hours away from the nearest Phaeton dealer (w/6 hour ferry ride)

      Mike

    30. Member WillemBal's Avatar
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      03-19-2011 10:18 PM #65
      Quote Originally Posted by seawind3000 View Post
      I have re wired the 3 wires five times now, chased them up stream, they pass the tug test and still No Go. How can I check the module the 3 wires go into? How do I get the car out of park to move it off the road?? Is there a jumper I can fool the car with?
      Mike,
      The 3 wires go into Steering Column Lock Actuator, code name N360. The other ends of the wires go to the Acces/Start J518 control module, which it hidden under the carpet at the passenger side. There is a thread about retrofitting KESSY with a description how to get to this module. (Link given below) You might want to check the continuity of the wires. The pinning of the connector is as follows:
      1. Pink wire: T81k/16 (pin 16 of connector T81.
      2. Green wire: T6ak/1 (pin 1 of connector T6)
      3. Brown/Grey: T6ak/2 (the pin right next to it)


      There is a way to move the selector switch to the neutral position. You have to remove the lever and part of your centre console to get access to the park interlock solenoid. The lock/release solenoid is in front of the shifter. There should be something that looks like a button. By pushing on it you can manually free the solenoid and then put the shifter in the N position.

      How to remove the selector switch and the centre console is well described in thread Retrofitting Keyless Start to a North American Phaeton, from step 7 through step 13. This thread also describes how to get to the Start/Acces module.

      Before you decide to doing all this, you may want to put a charger on your convenience battery and let it charge overnight. Just to make sure that your problem is not due to a drained battery.

      Good luck!
      Willem

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      03-21-2011 07:42 AM #66
      I tried the charger with no luck. I called VW Canada with my delema and they will get back to me today, so I'll wait to hear from them. If I have to transport the car to the dealer (5 hours away) I will check the wire continuity first.

      Thanks, Mike

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      03-21-2011 07:47 PM #67
      Well it looks like I have to transport the car 5 hours to VW, going in Friday morning....I'll keep you posted. Thank you for all your help, I got the car into neutral so now I can load it.

      Mike

    33. Member WillemBal's Avatar
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      03-22-2011 05:21 AM #68
      I’m glad you managed to get the car into neutral. I was just thinking of some possible causes. To name a few:
      Wires mixed up in the connector. The right order should be Pink; Green; Grey/Brown. Below picture is showing the arrangement, with the green wire missing.
      The actuator to which it is connected is defective.
      The wires connect to another connector, which is a black 17-pin connector T17c, which is located behind the instrument panel, left side, pin 7, 8 and 9. Doesn’t seem to be easy to get there and probably it is not worthwhile to remove the instrument panel, because this is just a pass-through connector. The 3 mating wires connect to the Start/Access control unit and are in no way connected to the instrument panel itself.
      The least amount of work to check the wiring continuity is by removing the carpet so you can get access to the Start/Access control unit. IF one of the wires is broken, then you might be able to install repair wires under the carpet.
      I can well imagine that you leave it to the dealer to resolve the problem, since it sounds like it is going to be a big job, without being sure of what the outcome may be. I’m really curious about how this will end and what will be the solution to the problem, so we can all learn from it. Also, I wonder if you might apply for some type of warranty. After all, it is not normal that wiring inside the comfortable environment of a car cabin is prone to wear. Lastly, when you talk to your dealer, please inform him that on 12 March 2010, a service bulletin was released with the code 2022361/1. There may be a prefix, perhaps something like TS (technical service). My dealer in the Netherlands calls it the "Handbook of Service Technique", a collection of bulletins with the latest information about specific problems and how to repair. I have seen the bulletin myself as my service manager showed it to me, but unfortunately forgot to ask for a copy. It gives a lot of information about the nature of the problem and possibly contains some additional and vital information of which we are not aware yet.

      Willem

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      03-22-2011 08:14 AM #69
      Thank you so much for the info, I will ask about the TS and I will let the forum know the results of the fix.

      Mike

    35. 04-25-2011 07:39 AM #70
      How did it go?

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