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    VWVortex


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    Thread: 1995 Eurovan Camper T4 Engine Problems

    1. 07-03-2008 03:19 PM #1
      1995 Eurovan Camper T4 Engine Problems
      Straight 5 SOHC 10V 2.461 cm3

      2.5L(ACU) 5cyl 5spd manual ~170k miles


      I have been fighting trying to diagnose this engine problem for a while and have got no solution. So here is what it does, when driving if you lug the engine down, maybe to about 2000 rpm the engine shutters and sputters. If you press the accelerator more when it is doing this it will stop shuttering and sputtering but it will loose all power and coast down to about 1000 where the shuttering and sputtering will return. If you wind the engine up higher using shift points of about 4000 rpm you can get the van up to 60 mph. If you do the same using shift points of 2500 rpm it will shutter and sputter in third gear and you cannot go any faster. This is all for a flat road, if the grade is steeper it will happen in a lower gear or at a lower speed and rpm, and vice versa for a down hill grade. The road to my house is very steep and I must have it at 3000 rpm to get it to make it up my hill, if I try at a lower rpm it will shutter and sputter and not make it. It never did this before, you could lug it down and it would power through. It is also difficult to start usually taking about three tries to get started. Prior it would always start on the first try.

      So here is what I looked at and replaced in sequence to determine the problem but to no avail.

      When this happened I was about 150 miles from my house I thought I might have got bad gas so I put some fuel drier and fuel injector cleaner in the tank. This did not help. I drove it the 150 miles or so back to my house and put more fuel into it with no improvement.
      When I got home I put a new fuel filter on it. No improvement.
      I put a new cap and rotor on it. No improvement.
      I replaced the throttle position sensor. No improvement.
      I tested all the spark plug wires and all the spark plugs and they all looked fine. All the spark plugs looked fine with no fouling, all had a nice white clean apperance. They were all properly torqued and seemed fine. I pulled the distributor and it looked fine. I shot it with a timing light and it was about 6 degrees advanced at 2000 rpm. I tested the Idle air control vavle and it cycles under 12v power. I removed the throller and cleaned and inspected and no problems. I checked the temperature sensors and they all seemed fine. The engine will shutter and sputter when the engine is cold and when it started happening the engine was hot so I do not think temperature has anything to do with it.

      I vaged it with a chinese vag-com each time I did any testing and got a few codes but they were all bogus. Once it said intake air temp (code #00523), I pulled it tested it and cleared it and it has not came back. Once it said intake manifold air pressure (code #00519), checked all vacuum hoses and cleared the code and it has not came back. I had replaced all the vaccum hoses about 1 year ago when I did the clutch, so they are all in very good condition.

      The only problem I know of is the kombi valve leaks a little and it melted the air check valve prior to it, so I have a gaskest blocking off the combi valve and the SAIP is not connected.

      I am running out of things to test.

      Any good ideas?

      Franks


    2. 07-03-2008 07:30 PM #2
      My 93 started doing all sorts of strange things. Would only run right if I was moving the gas pedal. If I put the cruise control on it would shutter and bang as engine misfired. Someone mentioned the power supply to the ecm via the relay (#21 or 31 I think). I bought a new one and the problem started again in about ten miles with the relay being very hot. The guys at the shop I worked at said that it sounded like a ground problem. I started at the source, battery, and shortly found that the fastener to the chassis ground was loose and about to fall off. It is the ground path for the ECM. Otherwise it has to find the ground through the axles and suspension. The fastener is right below battery tray on mine. I tightened it and haven't had a problem since. Well not with the surging/pulsating problem anyway. Check into it. It is a free fix. Dave


      Modified by 93stilgoin at 4:32 PM 7-3-2008

    3. Member
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      Jan 1st, 2003
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      Australia
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      07-03-2008 08:58 PM #3
      After some recent discussion on the Oz watercooled forum......it might be worth looking at (in no particular order) the ECU relay, engine mounts (too much wobble is bad!) and/or the fuel pressure regulator

    4. 07-04-2008 11:55 AM #4
      Thanks stilgoing;

      Great ideas, I will take a look again at the grounds. I think my problem is different because of two things. First is that the ECU stays powered while the engine is having problems, I can tell this because Vag-Com stays connected and shows the ECU voltage as normal. Second reason is that I can make it shutter and sputter upon my command. If I floor it at any time, except if it is ubove about 4000 rpm, it will shutter and sputter.

      I just took a look at all the grounds in that area and the look fine; tight, clean, and no frayin of the wires.

      Deepsnow


    5. 07-04-2008 12:19 PM #5
      Thanks Seano;

      One of your ideas sounds good, the other two I do not think are correct. I don't think it is the engine mounts because this problem just started abruptly one day , and second is that the transmission shifts fine and the shift lever did not move. If the engine mounts were bad usually the gear shift lever will be in a different location.

      I do not think it is the ECU relay because I can still keep communication with Vag-Com when this happens. If the ECU were switched off it would loose a connection to Vag-Com and need to reestablish a connection with it.

      Your third idea is one I have been thinking about for a while. Previously, I had taken out the fuel pressure regulator and looked to see if the inlet screen was clogged or plugged or the O-rings were good and they all looked fine at that time. I cannot think of a way to mechanicaly test it, except to pull the vacuum line while the engine is running and see if it dies or runs differently. The other idea I had was to monitor the vacuum level of the controlled line while driving to see if it gives any indication of problems. I am also going to connect a hand vacuum pump to it and see if I can cause it to misbehave while doing that.

      Any one tried this course? Have other people had problems with the rail mounted fuel pressure regulator?


    6. 07-04-2008 04:36 PM #6
      Quote, originally posted by Deepsnow »
      Your third idea is one I have been thinking about for a while. Previously, I had taken out the fuel pressure regulator and looked to see if the inlet screen was clogged or plugged or the O-rings were good and they all looked fine at that time. I cannot think of a way to mechanicaly test it, except to pull the vacuum line while the engine is running and see if it dies or runs differently. The other idea I had was to monitor the vacuum level of the controlled line while driving to see if it gives any indication of problems. I am also going to connect a hand vacuum pump to it and see if I can cause it to misbehave while doing that.

      Any one tried this course? Have other people had problems with the rail mounted fuel pressure regulator?

      I did on my Mk2 GTI. The symptoms were similar to what you're describing (ran better at higher RPMs than lower). Since the engine essentially was flooding, it ran OK only when lots of fuel was needed but ran crappy and stalled when only small amounts were needed. Although I don't think you mentioned anything about exhaust being rich...when mine was going bad and flooding the engine, the exhaust was very, very rich/smoky because of all the unburned fuel.

      However, also just check the vacuum line. I had replaced my regulator and a year later the same symptoms came back. The second time it was the vacuum line had a leak (making me wonder the first time if it was just a small vacuum leak and I had just disturbed the hose in a beneficial way while replacing the regulator).

      Be carefuly pulling the vacuum hose off though...a ruptured FPR could leak fuel so only do this if your engine is stone cold...don't want the fuel to contact anything hot like the manifold.


    7. 07-06-2008 11:17 AM #7
      I went through and leak tested all the components in the vacuum system I could reach (FPR,EGR,ECU) and found no issues. I played with it yesterday and noticed I could get it to sputter and stutter whithout the van moving, if I would just floor it whiled parked it would also sputter and stutter although it would in 3-5 secconds power through it, unlike while driving when it will not while driving.

      I re Vaged it and it threw two new codes 00524, knock sensor 1 (g61), 00-00-No Signal

      and 00758 I found this one is the SAIP and I do not mind this one.

      The one that has my intrest now is the knock sensor. I did alot of serching and found many, many post on the knock sensors but none discussed how to test them for us types to stingy to buy the Bentley manual. Could some nice individual please post the test prosedure for the Knock Sensor, mainly what the resistance values should be.

      Franks


    8. 07-16-2008 12:04 AM #8
      Hello

      Does anybody know how to test a knock sensor on a T4?


    9. 07-16-2008 12:28 AM #9
      If you suspect a bad knock sensor -- or anything else, for that matter -- just disconnect it. Digifant doesn't need all that stuff to run and will run fine without all that stuff (in the limp mode home: high idle, rich burn, but smooth and cool running, ie safe mode).

      Have you checked the cat? Disconnect the exhaust if necessary and make some noise and see if it runs smooth without the cat in the way.


    10. 03-17-2010 10:43 AM #10
      I've got a 1992 Eurovan with the 2.5L I5 and a 5 speed. Last summer it started acting similarly, and it turned out to be a dying tank fuel pump.

      It was a bugger to diagnose. It turned out to be a short in the pump motor that would cause intermittent problems. I'd really have to get my foot into it to get the van to move because I was relying almost exclusively on the fuel rail pump to maintain fuel pressure. Dropping the tank and replacing the pump fixed all the problems I was having.


    11. Semi-n00b
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      03-17-2010 11:04 AM #11
      Last September I bought a 92 Eurovan 2.5 AAF with automatic. Around November I picked it up from the mechanic doing the safety and drove it to the Ministry Of Transport to get the plates. On my way there the transmission committed hari-kari. Now (March) it is running again with a 5-speed. It's great except it now does that sputtering thing similar to the above.

      However, my problem seems to be slightly different. If I start up from cold and run it around town it's fine. But when I shut it down and restart when it's warm that's when it seems to happen. I've only been driving it since last Sunday but it seems highway-related as well. If I rev over 4,000 RPM it will sputter on coasting and deceleration but is okay on acceleration.

      I'll try the fuel pressure regulator and ground wires (all other mechanical / tune up stuff is new). I tried a new coil but that did nothing to help.

      I've gleaned some useful information from this post but if anyone has any updates concerning their problems please post.

      Thanks.


    12. Semi-n00b
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      1995 Rialta,
      08-22-2012 01:00 PM #12
      It appears that you have converted your Eurovan to 5 speeds manual transmission. How do you like that? How does it improve the fuel consumption? I am planning to replace my 95 Rialta auto trans with a manual 5 speeds one and would appreciate ant tips that you may offer. Thank you. Long

    13. Member
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      '01 T4 2.5TDI manual Trakka camper, '06 Golf TDI manual, '01 Polo 16V manual, '09 Tiguan TDI manual.
      08-23-2012 02:17 AM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by Deepsnow View Post
      I cannot think of a way to mechanicaly test it, except to pull the vacuum line while the engine is running and see if it dies or runs differently.
      There is a comprehensive test sequence in the Bentley in section F 24-107 & F 24=108 for testing the fuel pressure regulator. It's quite involved but very roughly a gauge is installed in the line going to the rail & at idle it needs to be 36 psi minimum. Pull vacuum hose off fuel pressure regulator & fuel pressure must rise to 44psi minimum. Switch off ignition & after 10 minutes residual pressure must be 29 psi minimum. There is more info but I will only type it in if you are interested in doing the test & have a suitable gauge.

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