This guide is to help those who want to install their own alarm, learn a bit in the process, and save some money all at once. I do recommend that you have some experience with cars and electronics before you attempt this. If you do not have any experience with taking your car apart and begin to feel uncomfortable or begin to think that you're in over your head TAKE YOUR CAR TO A PROFESSIONAL. It WILL save you time and money to have someone else do it before you mess things up. That being said I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS IN FOLLOWING THIS DIY. However if you do follow this DIY then you shouldn't have any issues at all. Just be careful and take your time, it's not a race, it's an install.
An overview of what's going in:
Python 990 Alarm (Made by DEI, same thing as a Viper or Clifford)
- Keyless entry
- Remote Start with Starter Kill and Turbo Timer
- Shock Sensor
- Digital Tilt Sensor (DEI 507M)
- Backup Battery (DEI 520T)
- Window Roll up and Window Roll Down "Circuits" (relays)
- Individual Door Pins (because of how the remote start works, covered later)
- Parking Light Flash
- Bypass Module for Remote Start (DEI 556UW)
A list of "basic" tools you should have before starting:
- A good digital multi-meter and/or a "power probe" (if you choose to use a power probe be sure to get one that is airbag safe!)
- A torx bit set (also referred to as "star bits")
- A screw driver set
- A panel popper set (can be picked up at harbor freight, Sears, or any tool store)
- A pick set (also available at most hardware/tool stores)
- A Skew Driver (http://veedubb.com/gallery/albums/miscpics/STP80499.sized.jpg)
- A set of wire strippers with varying gauge sizes (from about 12awg to 20awg)
- A set of crimpers ( I use Klein crimpers, available at Sears also. My favorite by far)
- A set of "flush cuts" (the blue set of wire cutters you will see in pics below)
- "T-Tap" pliers (a set of needle nose pliers will do fine as well)
- A "Total-Recall Tool" aka wire grabber and/or a coat hanger (http://www.tool-rack.co.uk/catalogue/trput4.jpg)
- Various sizes of connectors including:
- Male spades
- Female spades
- Ring terminals
- Butt connectors
- A soldering iron and solder
- Plenty of electrical tape (I used 2 rolls)
That should about cover it for what you need. It would also be a good idea to get a work light, I bought a 30 LED work light by ATD and I love it to death. It's one of my install essentials if you will. Now, onto the start of things.
This is what's going in: (Thank you Vanna "VturbosnailW" White)
Now the basics out of the box, this is about what you should have. I left the hood pin and one of the useless harnesses out of this picture.
The "extras": remote start bypass (sends chip signal to ignition), backup battery, and digital tilt sensor)
NOTE: These wire colors and functions are DEI alarm wire codes. These will not apply to all brands and types of alarms. Please refer to the install manual on the alarm that you are installing for detailed wire color and functions.
NOTE: This install was done on my 2003 20th Anniversary Edition GTI. Not all wire colors will be the exact same for all MKIV VW's. Be sure to TEST YOUR WIRES before you tag them. I have seen cars of the same generation have completely different wire colors but the locations of the wires should all be the same.
The wires that were used off the primary harness (12 pin) for this install were:
- Red/white: (-) output to window roll-up relay
- Red: (+) input from backup battery (or to 12v+ if you're not using a backup battery)
- Brown: (+) output to siren
- Black: (-) input chassis ground
- Green: (-) door trigger input
- White: (+) output to light flash
- Orange: (-) ground while armed output to digital tilt sensor
NOTE: Most installs will not use the orange wire, it is generally used only for accessories such as the digital tilt sensor that was installed.
Auxiliary harness (6 pin):
- White/black: (-) output to window roll down relay
- Green/white: (-) output to lock wire for factory alarm re-arm
- Light Green/Black: (-) output to unlock wire for factory alarm disarm
Door Lock harness (3 pin):
Blue: (-) output to unlock wire
Green: (-) output to lock wire
Remote Start Ribbon Harness:
This simply plugs into the brain and also into the "heavy gauge" ignition interface relay pack. You do not have to splice these wires to anything, it is "plug and play"
"Heavy gauge relay satellite connector":
Purple: (+) output to starter motor
Green: (+) input from ignition (key side of starter wire)
Red: (+) 12v+ input ("high current")
Orange: (+) output to accessory wire in ignition harness
Pink: (+) output to primary ignition wire (also serves as ignition input)
Red: (+) 12v+ input ("high current")
Red/white: (+) 12v+ input ("high current")
NOTE: The pink/white wire is not used on our cars. Pink/white is a second ignition wire and is not required when doing remote start on our cars (MKIV's). Also, I did not get pictures of this, but you can "combine" 2 of the 12v+ inputs (I combined the red/white and one of the red wires) to reduce the number of wires being ran to the ignition harness.
Remote start harness (5 pin):
- Black/white: (-) input from neutral safety switch
- Violet/black: (+) input from tachometer wire
- Brown: (+) input from brake wire
NOTE: If you drive an automatic you can simply ground the black/white wire. The automatic transmission will not allow you to start the car in gear so you don't have to worry about this. Ground this wire. I also grounded this wire because I was doing a turbo timer install and hooked a switch up to the clutch wires. This will be covered later.
Secondary remote satellite harness:
- Blue: (-) output to bypass module for remote start. This wire tells the remote start bypass module when to send the chip signal from the key to the ignition to allow the car to start without a key in the ignition.
With the information above, time to start the prep. Cut off the wires that you won't be using but leave about 3 or 4 inches of "slack" when you do; this way if you cut the wrong wire off you won't be kicking yourself if you have to put it back together. Be sure to wrap the end of each wire in electrical tape to isolate it from the other wires! If you don't they could "feed" each other signals and you could end up with some strange alarm behavior.
Once you have your wires all chopped off and wrapped away from each other, we can start making our wires look better. Take your cordless drill and place the end of two wires that you want to run together in the end of the drill. Tighten the chuck of the drill onto the two wires.
Now you can do one of several things: have a friend hold the other end of the wires, set the harness on the ground and stand on the other end of the wires, or place the harness in a vice. Whichever option you choose be sure to have pressure on the wires BEFORE the harness so you don't pull the pins out of the harness! I chose option two, standing on the end of the wires.
Now start twisting your wires together. Don't twist too tight, you don't want to break the wires. You should end up with something like this
Be sure to combine wires where you can. For example, the factory alarm disarm, factory alarm arm, lock, unlock, and our window roll up and roll down wires will all go to the same 2 wires in the car (the lock and unlock wires). So combine them now to save time and trouble down the road. From left to right you see the unlock wire combined with the factory alarm disarm wire, the lock wire combined with the factory alarm arm wire, and the output wire for the window roll down relay.
I also added 2 wires about 3 inches long to that splice. I used these later on to connect my window circuits.
NOTE: Notice the blue cutters on the floor; these are the "flush cuts" I mentioned earlier in tools you'll want to have.
When setting up the relays for the window circuits, you can use the following information. This information applies only to standard 5 post Bosch style relays and the purpose/application we are using them for!
30: (-) ground
85: (-) input from alarm
86: (+) constant 12v+
87: (-) output (to lock or unlock wire for roll up or roll down respectively)
This is a partial setup of my relay so you can see how I connected the wires. You can also use female spades for this, they work just as well as soldering for this application.
Continue prepping and twisting wires together. Cover your wires in electrical tape (black preferred) when you are done twisting. This will help hold the wires together and also make it harder for any thieves to figure out what wire does what should they ever get their head under the dash of your car. You should end up with something looking like this when you're all done.
Ok, so you've now spent probably somewhere in the range of 2 hours prepping your alarm. Good job. Now let's get onto the install part where we can have some real fun. I like to remove most of the panels that I need to before I start running wires. You can remove them in whatever order you like; I will just place them in the order I removed them in just to keep things in "order".
Start by taking off the fuse cover panel. Pry carefully as to not scratch anything. Once the first "pop" comes undone, simply stick your fingers in there and gently pull.
Now start removing the under-dash panels. These screws are torx 20 screws. There are 3 along the bottom, once you have those removed pull straight out on the left under-dash panel and it should come right off.
Once you remove the left under-dash panel you should end up with this.
The 2 screws on the far left and far right are machined screws and are also torx 25 bits, not torx 20 like the others. There are 2 screws on either side of the steering column as indicated by the 2 red arrows.