Remove the one screw in the center, then pull straight out on the right under-dash panel.
Now remove the rest of the screws. The metal under-dash piece needs to be lifted up slightly, then pulled out bottom first. Once the bottom is pulled out a bit it should come down and out easily.
It's easiest to remove the very underside panel if you stick your fingers on the backside of the clip indicated in this picture and press out from behind.
Be sure to set these panels in a safe place where you will not step on them, run over them with the car, or where other damages or accidents can occur. Also be sure to keep good track of your screws, after all no one likes a rattley car.
Because of the way that the remote start works, we will be running individual door pins. This includes the rear hatch in my case or the trunk for you Jetta/Passat owners. To remote start our cars and not set off the factory alarm, we have to first disarm the factory alarm; unfortunately this also unlocks the drivers door and turns on the dome light, which would then cause the aftermarket alarm to think a door was opened setting it off every time the car was remote started. Hence why we are running individual door trigger wires. If you want to know other ways to get around this issue you can PM me.
There is (or should be) a light in the trunk/hatch that turns on only when the trunk/hatch is opened. We can use this for our trunk/hatch trigger. To get the light out to where you can access the harness you should be able to just gently pull out with your fingers from the front first.
The wire used here is the brown/blue wire which shows a ground (-) when the hatch is opened.
It is important that you use a diode to isolate each door trigger wire from the others. If you don't the feedback from one wire to another could cause issues (although it is not entirely common). The picture below shows how a diode should be wired inline of the door trigger wire. ALWAYS COMPLETELY tape your connections, this one is left open for reference and shows the direction the signal from the door trigger will flow by reference of the red arrow.
NOTE: A positive signal will not flow through a diode the same way as a negative (ground) signal will. If you are unclear of how diodes work, please look it up or ask someone who can tell you.
Now to get to a place where we can run the wire, you can either "cheat" and simply tuck the wire just under the edge of your interior panels, or you can do what I did and remove the panels completely. The removal is obviously different from Jettas and GTI's but you should be able to figure it out (that means you Jetta/Passat Folks)
Start by gently prying back on the side panel in the door jam. You will need to get slightly under the weather stripping/door seal for this
Once you get that portion of the panel pulled back, you will need to pop a couple of panel pops out; unfortunately I didn't get pictures of this but there are only 3 or 4 of them and they are along the side you just pryed up and along the bottom of the panel. Once you get those loose, for the GTI simply lift up on the whole panel and it should pop up and out. You will see where to pull loose the rear bit of the panel, it's pretty obvious.
NOTE: GTI folks – you may need to remove your rear seats to get these panels out, I removed mine just to make things easier. If you need help removing your rear seats PM me or ask a fellow dubber in your area, they may be able to help.
For Jetta folks, once you get one side of the “B pillar” loose you should be able to simply work that panel out without too much issue by pulling up and towards the rear of the car.
Now go ahead and move your way back up to the front of the car to remove the hood pop handle. This part is very easily and commonly broken when people try to remove it improperly. This is what the handle looks like when removed
To get the handle off, pull on the handle and unlatch the hood; keep the handle pulled out. With the handle still pulled out you should be able to feel the slot that you can see in the picture above; use a panel popper, flat blade screw driver, or as I used a 90* pick to pull that piece out. I was not able to completely pull that piece out with the handle pulled, so I released the handle back to it's resting position and then reached around the panel and simply pulled the piece out with my fingers. Once that “block” has been removed the handle should pull right off without any fuss.
Now you can pull up and out on the kick panel and it should come out fairly easily. There will be some resistance and you will need to be careful separating it from the running board panel as there is a connecting panel hook between the two.
There are 2 phillips head screws at the B pillar in the running board panel that secure the panel to the car. Be sure to remove these before pulling up on the running board panel to remove it otherwise you may be buying yourself a new panel. With those 2 screws removed simply pull up on the running board panel; there are panel pops about every 6 inches or so and they are quite stiff. Just take your time with them, if you break one don't panic, they can easily be glued back on with good result.
Another piece that you may choose to remove is the “dead pedal”. If you do this to route wires around DO NOT PULL OUT on the deal pedal! There is one torx 20 screw at the top of the dead pedal then you PUSH UP on the dead pedal. If you pull out before you push up, you WILL snap most if not all of the clips off the back and may risk a loose dead pedal. I did not have to remove my dead pedal but did so anyways just in case; someone was kind enough to have snapped all those panel holder hooks off for me but my pedal still seems to sit fairly snug when screwed down.
Now that you have the panels removed that you need to get out to run your wires nice and clean from the trunk on up to your under dash area. It's usually a good practice to run your wires with a loom (bundle) of factory wiring using zip ties or tape to hold them along with the factory wires. If there are no factory wires then just pull up the edge of the carpet and tuck your wires down to where they aren't going to interfere with anything; usually down to the floor to avoid bumps in your carpet.
Time for the other door triggers now, we will start with the passenger door. Jetta and GTI door panel removal is the same, Passats I'm not 100% sure on but I would imagine they are very similar.
Reference the image below for the following instructions. Start at the blue arrow in the direction indicated with a panel popper to pop the “outside” of the handle off. This will be stiff on most vehicles so you may have to be stern with it. You will want to start at the blue arrow so you don't scratch the “soft touch” material off the handle, once it starts going it practically disentigrates.
The red circles indicate torx 20 screws in the panel and the yellow circles indicate phillips head screws. The upper screw on the door jam side of the panel is where your “Skew Driver” will come in handy. Once you have all the screws removed, grab your panel popper or carefully get your fingers under the panel where the torx 20 screws were at and pull out. This will pop the panel pops loose; work your way from the bottom of the door out and up around the sides until the door panel is “hanging loose” from only the top. Now lift up on the outer edge of the door panel (the side closest to the door lock) and the top of the door panel should lift right off the door. It is a good idea to roll down the window before removing the door panel so it is easier to put the panel back on later without the glass in your way. Unplug the misc. harnesses and set the door panel aside.
This is where you will want to go to get the door trigger wire, it is brown/white. Be sure to reference the diode wiring example I posted up earlier, you don't want to have to pull the door panel again if you goof up. Also be careful when cutting the tape off the wires, you don't want to cut any wires!
Strip that wire and connect your door trigger wire with the diode inline to it. I soldered this wire but you can t-tap if you'd like. Follow the picture below for a good route for this wire. Just follow right along the factory harness.
Running that wire is where your coat hangar or wire grabber is going to come in handy. A good method to getting wires through tight spots is to stick the hangar through, tape the wire onto the hangar, then pull the hangar back through. It is best to run the wire through the door jam boot to avoid pinches or other issues. I did not get pictures of removing the ends of the door jam boots as my photographer and I were getting tired in 100+ degree heat If you have trouble, again PM me.
It should be obvious where this wire is going when you stick your hand in the kick panel. Tuck the wire behind the carpeting and route it to the drivers side of the car behind the center of the dash.
There is a small panel on the drivers side of the center dash console that will need to be removed, it looks like a phillips head screw is holding it on but it's not really a screw. Stick your fingernails around it and pull it out, it's a “post style” securing system. Pull that out, then the panel should pull out, down, and off.
Now lets move over to the driver side door. Again, my photographer got a little lax and didn't snap some pics of the panel removal for you all, but I think you'll get the idea. The only real difference between the driver and passenger door is how the outer handle piece comes off. Instead of an outer handle piece it's the switch panel on the drivers door.
First you need to remove the INNER piece of the switch panel. Do this by gently taking your panel popper and pressing down and towards the door panel. You may be able to do this with your fingers but you will probably have to use a panel popper. Once you get this little piece out, you should be able to grab the edge of the switch panel and pull up. There are panel clips around the entire outer edge of the switch panel so it will probably be stiff. Again, you may have to use a panel popper tool for this. Once you get that up and off, driver door panel removal is the same as the passenger door.
Once you have the driver's door panel off you will be going to the same place you went for the passenger door. Below is a picture of the wires you will be tagging. Brown/white is door trigger, yellow/blue is the lock wire, and red/green is the unlock wire.
You should only have 3 wires to run through this door if you combined them as suggested earlier. Just as in the passenger door run the wires along the factory harness and follow them through the door boot.
Now that we have most of the longer, harder wire runs out of the way let's get the antenna and LED mounted. Starting with the antenna, a prime place for the antenna is just above the rear view mirror. You can have a friend help you be sure it's centered by standing outside the car but if it's a tiny bit off you'll never notice. You will want to stick the antenna on the windshield WITH THE ANTENNA WIRE CONNETED and put it as close to the edge of the headliner as possible. This will reduce and most likely eliminate any wire from showing.
The red line in the picture indicates where the antenna wire is running. Using your fingers tuck the antenna wire up and under the edge of the headliner. Don't worry about hurting the headliner, it will give about ½'' or so before you get close to creasing it. You can see in the picture above where my panel popper is at, that is where you will want to go around the pillar panel. Tuck the wire up and under the top of that panel then down the side of the A pillar. To finish routing the antenna gently pull back on the door seal from outside the car and inside (using both hands if necessary) and pull it down. This will provide a perfect “track” for you to run the antenna wire in. Continue under the A pillar panel until you reach the dash then route the end of the wire through the opening in the dash above the fuse panel.
Next we have the LED, I hate the big bulky and tacky looking cover that comes on the LED's so I remove them to “flush mount” the LED. It looks 100x better and is just as bright if not brighter. To remove the LED casing take your crimpers and gently crimp down on the bottom of the LED casing, turn the LED and then repeat. It may take 2 or 3 times around the LED if you don't get the hang of it right off the bat be patient, it pays off.
Now that you have the casing removed find a place you'd like to mount the LED. I chose the panel just below the gauges but above the steering column. A great place for the LED to mount is a blank switch plate in the dash next to the hazard switch, but I chose not to do this as I plan to retrofit seat heaters into my Recaro's down the road. To pull this panel loose, simply grab at the very end (right or left) and pull STRAIGHT OUT. Not up or down, but straight out, the end should pop right out. Repeat on the other side and it will be loose.
The hole you drill will end up being just shy of 1/8''. Still I would start at a small bit, about 1/32'' or as small as you can and work your way up until the LED fits into the hole.
This is what you should end up with as an end result for a “flush mount”. To secure the LED the best thing is to hot glue it from the backside of the panel. I didn't have hot glue available so I used “strip caulking”. It does the job just fine.
Now is a great time to run the antenna for the remote start bypass module since you already have part of the upper steering column shroud removed. To remove the upper portion of th steering column shroud (which is all you will need for now, you may remove the entire shroud if you would like) there are two phillips head screws along the bottom side of the shroud near the steering wheel on the left and right. Undo these screws and the top shroud should pull right off along with the panel you just pulled to mount your LED in. This will make it easier to secure your LED as well.
I was unable to get to the additional screws behind my steering wheel to remove the bottom of the steering column shroud so I just worked around it. This gets semi difficult but if you take your time and be careful you should be fine. You are going to need to pull back on the little rubber piece around your key cylinder to feed the end of the antenna wire through there. I used a small flat blade screwdriver to do this and fed the plug through with my other hand. When you are feeding the antenna wire through here be careful not to pull too hard. There is only ONE strand of copper wire connected to the end of the antenna ring and if you break it you have just ruined your remote start bypass module and will need to go purchase a new one or hope someone is nice enough to replace it for you at the store you bought it from.
The red arrow indicates the direction in which you will need to feed the wire and you can see me in the process of tucking the antenna ring into the rubber circle.
This is about how it should look when it's tucked in, I was able to get it tucked a little farther in than that and still have it function just fine. NOTE: The antenna ring MUST sit forward a little bit in order for the sensor in the car to read the signal. If you tuck the ring to far back your car WILL NOT be able to read the chip signal and you will have to reposition the ring. Not a big deal but it can get annoying.
So now you are a good chunk into your alarm install. Take a break and chill for a few minutes, maybe have one of these (or rootbeer for those of you underage). It might not seem like you're all that far along, but you've got most of the hard part over with and soon you will be tying up all your connections.
I also assume by now that you have been putting door panels back on as you are moving on with your install and closing things back up that won't be used anymore. Now all that should really be open is the under dash area. I think that it pretty much goes without saying installation is the reverse of removal for everything we have taken off.