VWVortex


+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 35 of 51

Thread: Front Brakes Pads Change DIY

  1. Member
    Join Date
    Sep 17th, 2007
    Location
    Texas, USA
    Posts
    1,921
    07-20-2008 11:53 PM #1
    My little contribution to this board...

    1) Make sure you have your favorite brake pads

    2) View of front calipers

    3) Remove clip from caliper, pry up and then out, there is a 'tab' that is sloted into the outside pad clip you can see in the pictures below. You need to pry the clip up till the 'tab' clears the pad clip slot before you can get it outwards towards you. This clip is going to come off with some force, and it very well will scuff off a small portion of the caliper paint.



    4) Remove both caliper guide bolts with a 7mm hex key, these guide bolts are covered behind 2 plastic caps on the back side of the caliper.


    5) Upon removal of the 2 caliper guide bolts, the caliper will slide out and away from the brake disc and you can then remove both inner and outer pads. Remember to have someting to hold the caliper while its off the carrier, do not let it hang on the brake line.

    6) The correct front pads are the 915-3 with 1 sensor on the driver side only. Since there are none I know of available of the 915-3, I used the 915-1 which is the exact same pad pattern with the 1 sensor on the driver side, except that the sensor clip is different. You can choose to 'loop' the sensor and eliminate that feature or you can graft the old stock plug on to the new pad sensor wire like I did (the stock wiring boot covers the wire joint nicely).



    7) A good synthetic grease is recommended on the mating surfaces of the pad to the caliper piston/bracket, and the contact surfaces of the pad at the caliper bracket. I use a thin coat and so far the brakes have been silent.

    8) Re-assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly, do not over tighten the caliper guide bolts during re-assembly and be careful not to cross thread these bolts as well.

    9) A thin coat of anti-seize where the hub meets the wheel is also recommended.

    10) Finally, don't forget to torque to the correct rating. I don't know what the torque rating for the lug bolts are on the R32, but I have always run 80 ft lbs on my BMWs and so that is what I used.

    Usual disclaimers applies to this DIY, I have attempted to be as detailed as I can, but if you have specific questions, I will be glad to answer based on my experience. Make sure your car is properly supported and secured before you work on it.


    Modified by AsianDude at 10:58 PM 7-20-2008


  2. Member ncraba01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 11th, 2002
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    529
    Vehicles
    '08/VW/.:R32 TR #854
    07-21-2008 12:44 AM #2
    Good write up! Thank you.

  3. 07-21-2008 02:13 AM #3
    didn't know oem stuff is made by Pagid (looking at the pics). Good stuff
    Everybody has a plan till they get punched in the mouth
    1986 535i | 1995 M3 | 2002 337 | 2005 MCS | 2006 GTI | 2007 GTI | 2008 R32 | 2006 CAYENNE S | 2012 GOLF R | 1991 964
    GONE | PRESENT

  4. Member AWPower's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 27th, 2005
    Location
    Somewhere
    Posts
    3,629
    Vehicles
    VR6 Golf
    07-21-2008 03:39 AM #4
    Pagid has always been the brake pads of VW

  5. 07-21-2008 10:10 AM #5
    Anyone put ceramics on yet? Less dust??

  6. 07-21-2008 10:32 AM #6
    Nice info, 88ft lbs for the lugs. Just rotated this weekend and had to verify.

  7. 07-21-2008 01:50 PM #7
    Thanks much for the write up.

    I was initially intimidated about changing my pads myself, but now I see that, aside from a few tools I don't have, it's not as difficult as I had assumed.


  8. 07-21-2008 08:46 PM #8
    Thanks so much for the write-up.... I received my new pads from Carbotech and will put them on this weekend....

    I did a search for rear brake pad installation and found only MkIV - I have Carbotechs for the rears as well.

    Happy Bedding-in

    eric


  9. Member
    Join Date
    Sep 17th, 2007
    Location
    Texas, USA
    Posts
    1,921
    07-22-2008 08:30 AM #9
    Quote, originally posted by Coyote R32 »

    I did a search for rear brake pad installation and found only MkIV - I have Carbotechs for the rears as well.

    I have a write-up for the rears as well...I will post it in the next day or so...
    Carbotech


  10. Member Judgie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 26th, 2002
    Location
    Peterborough, Ontario
    Posts
    116
    Vehicles
    08 Rabbit
    03-04-2010 10:31 AM #10
    I'm about to change the pads but I'm next to certain that the replacements I'm getting do not come with the sensor. Can anyone describe the process to 'loop' the connector (is it just splicing the wires together??? - do I need to worry about tripping the sensor and how would I reset?.... or reuse the old sensor in the new pad?

    Thanks!!!!


  11. 03-04-2010 11:10 AM #11
    nice clean wheels

  12. 03-04-2010 12:06 PM #12
    you really dont need to "break" into these pads? Hows the initial bite and fade? Less dust than the OEM?

  13. 03-04-2010 01:08 PM #13
    Quote, originally posted by Judgie »
    I'm about to change the pads but I'm next to certain that the replacements I'm getting do not come with the sensor. Can anyone describe the process to 'loop' the connector (is it just splicing the wires together??? - do I need to worry about tripping the sensor and how would I reset?.... or reuse the old sensor in the new pad?

    Thanks!!!!

    just splice them together and tape them up.

    I've got the Carbotec bobcats, They are a nice pad.


  14. 09-20-2010 05:57 AM #14
    sorry for digging up old thread, but how comes i dont have that metal clip? (from step 3)?
    car is a 2.0 SDI

  15. Member Saabstory02's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 25th, 2009
    Location
    Southern Maryland
    Posts
    4,312
    Vehicles
    2009 VW GTI ; 2012 VW Golf TDI - 4DR 6MT
    09-20-2010 07:50 AM #15
    Quote Originally Posted by trademark2k6 View Post
    sorry for digging up old thread, but how comes i dont have that metal clip? (from step 3)?
    car is a 2.0 SDI
    Because this is the .:R32 forum; and these are .:R32 brakes.

    You need to go to the correct forum for your car bud
    -Jason
    '12 TDI 6M with "stuff"
    Drive a Diesel?

  16. 09-20-2010 01:39 PM #16
    I got linked to this thread from the MkV and Jetta section DIY thread...

  17. 09-20-2010 02:06 PM #17
    Quote Originally Posted by trademark2k6 View Post
    I got linked to this thread from the MkV and Jetta section DIY thread...
    .:R brakes are a little bit different. For starters, they're bigger. But yeah, almost everything about them is different from the GTI/Jetta.

  18. Semi-n00b
    Join Date
    Sep 1st, 2009
    Location
    St. Louis
    Posts
    15
    Vehicles
    2006 VW 3.6 4mo Passat
    10-11-2010 10:42 AM #18
    I have a 3.6 4mo passat which uses the same front brakes. One tip I would give is this. After I removed the carrier bolts, I needed to compress the piston back into the caliper before I was able to slide it off. I just used a screw driver to pry the caliper towards me compressing the inside pad against the back of the rotor.

    Maybe this should have been obvious, but I searched for hours online trying to figure this out. The only forum I could find about my front brakes was this one, but my calipers didn't just slide out and away as easily as it seemed in the write up. Out of frustration, I tried my above method and luckily for me it worked. Hope maybe this will save someone else some frustrations.

    Otherwise, great write up and great pictures. Thanks.

  19. Geriatric Member PSU's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 15th, 2004
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    74,521
    Vehicles
    2004 R32, 2008 R32
    10-11-2010 11:09 AM #19
    You, sir, are the man. Definitely bookmarking this for later.

    Thanks for the informative write up. Don't know how I missed it years ago.
    MKV | MKIV | AWhiteRabbit| perfect.

  20. Senior Member abeR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 13th, 2002
    Location
    Joe's Garage / Chicago
    Posts
    23,041
    Vehicles
    3.2 electric boogaloo bitches
    10-11-2010 12:02 PM #20
    can we get this added to the FAQ's

    who is in charge of the FAQ's ..

    I vote for PSU to clean up that thread....

    amrando?


  21. Member AWPower's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 27th, 2005
    Location
    Somewhere
    Posts
    3,629
    Vehicles
    VR6 Golf
    10-11-2010 12:16 PM #21
    Agree add it to the DIY/FAQ section the old one is not there anymore. I really needed this when I was changing my brake pads

  22. Geriatric Member PSU's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 15th, 2004
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    74,521
    Vehicles
    2004 R32, 2008 R32
    10-11-2010 01:05 PM #22
    Quote Originally Posted by abeR View Post
    can we get this added to the FAQ's

    who is in charge of the FAQ's ..

    I vote for PSU to clean up that thread....

    amrando?

    I'd gladly take it on if someone will grant me access to it.

    Thanks for the nomination Abe.
    MKV | MKIV | AWhiteRabbit| perfect.

  23. 02-16-2011 03:01 PM #23
    Is there a torque setting to the caliper guide pins? Or just tighten until snug but don't over tighten. I remember doing brakes on my Passat 00 awhile back and there was a torque setting for those pins on that car.

    Thank you!

  24. Member Ikey3125's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 27th, 2008
    Location
    Fairchild AFB/Spokane WA
    Posts
    4,635
    Vehicles
    08 .:R 2763/5000
    03-09-2011 11:34 AM #24
    Quote Originally Posted by jlaudio27 View Post
    Is there a torque setting to the caliper guide pins? Or just tighten until snug but don't over tighten. I remember doing brakes on my Passat 00 awhile back and there was a torque setting for those pins on that car.

    Thank you!
    What he said...and same for the rears...

    I really need to invest in a Bentley...

  25. Junior Member g8guard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 24th, 2008
    Location
    NW PA
    Posts
    84
    Vehicles
    2011 Golf VI 2.5L UG
    03-09-2011 01:17 PM #25
    This is what I found in my Bentley DVD manual: (front & rear)


    Tightening Specifications
    Guide pin to brake carrier 30 Nm
    Brake hose to brake line 14 Nm
    Last edited by g8guard; 03-09-2011 at 01:31 PM.

  26. Member Ikey3125's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 27th, 2008
    Location
    Fairchild AFB/Spokane WA
    Posts
    4,635
    Vehicles
    08 .:R 2763/5000
    03-09-2011 02:04 PM #26
    Quote Originally Posted by g8guard View Post
    This is what I found in my Bentley DVD manual: (front & rear)


    Tightening Specifications
    Guide pin to brake carrier 30 Nm
    Brake hose to brake line 14 Nm
    Cool thanks...well I've never torqued a line...ever...7 years today in the AF and every hydraulic line gets put on til the B-nut is nice and tight.

    Guide pin is 22ft lbs
    Brake Lines is 10ft lbs

  27. Member EngTech1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 30th, 2008
    Location
    Western - Up State NY
    Posts
    1,102
    Vehicles
    CC, V50 - T-Bird , MG , Volvo 122s , Volvo 144 , Volvo 242 GT
    07-24-2011 10:13 AM #27
    Aren't the Calipers half Alu. on most set ups , and You might be gaining some Dia. on Disc ,
    Butt - don't really see much advantage or are other Benefits to this Up Grade .

    I was Hoping the R32 had a least Alloy Calipers , any of the Audi Stuff transfer Over Like this ?
    I'll do My Best to Help You: ** Fall Sale is On ! ** -

    http://photobucket.com/Storm_Rooms_S...view=slideshow

  28. Banned BetaOp9's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 4th, 2006
    Posts
    5,413
    Vehicles
    2008 VW R32 [TR #2392]
    07-24-2011 11:18 AM #28
    Quote Originally Posted by EngTech1 View Post
    Aren't the Calipers half Alu. on most set ups , and You might be gaining some Dia. on Disc ,
    Butt - don't really see much advantage or are other Benefits to this Up Grade .

    I was Hoping the R32 had a least Alloy Calipers , any of the Audi Stuff transfer Over Like this ?
    Not sure what you are talking about...

    The R32 setup is kind of mandatory since we own R32's....and like other cars our pads need to be replaced. That is where this thread comes into play to provide us with info on doing that. Please expand on what you are referring to.

    Sent from my HTC Vision using Tapatalk

  29. Senior Member abeR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 13th, 2002
    Location
    Joe's Garage / Chicago
    Posts
    23,041
    Vehicles
    3.2 electric boogaloo bitches
    07-24-2011 11:53 AM #29
    Me thinks he was trying to respond to a racing brake thread


    But seriously

    Changing your pads is a waste of time. I did the flintstones mod years ago

  30. Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 23rd, 2011
    Location
    Canaduh
    Posts
    61
    Vehicles
    2012 Golf TDI
    07-29-2011 09:15 AM #30
    Thanks for the writeup, i changed my pads using this method and everything was smooth, except for the unretracted piston part. I came back to this thread and saw jsowens52's reply which helped.

    And i also had a slight squeal @ low speed and low braking-force, which is gone now.

  31. Member VDubCub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 12th, 2002
    Location
    Mesa, Az
    Posts
    162
    Vehicles
    88 GTI 16V (sold), 95GTI VR6 194kmi, 07MazdaSpeed3 GT, 02NB 1.8T
    10-06-2011 04:52 PM #31
    During removal of the front calipers how did you compress the caliper piston? I'm not able to remove the caliper due to the fact that piston is extended and applying pressure to the brake pads on the rotor

  32. Banned BetaOp9's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 4th, 2006
    Posts
    5,413
    Vehicles
    2008 VW R32 [TR #2392]
    10-07-2011 05:36 AM #32
    Quote Originally Posted by VDubCub View Post
    During removal of the front calipers how did you compress the caliper piston? I'm not able to remove the caliper due to the fact that piston is extended and applying pressure to the brake pads on the rotor
    I had this same issue. Since you can't get the caliper retraction tool in to properly retract it, we got a breaker bar to apply some force onto the rotor between the outer surface of the rotor and the caliper bracket. Not a lot, just enough to give you some clearance to remove the floating caliper assembly.

  33. Member Ryan E.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 1st, 2002
    Location
    Huntington Beach
    Posts
    2,285
    Vehicles
    2008 CW R32, 2003 1.8T GTI, 1974 2002 tii
    10-07-2011 09:12 AM #33
    after removing my calipers so many times I realized you can use a large flat head screwdriver to pry the piston enough space to remove the caliper, just make sure to remove the clip and loosen the 2 caliper bolts first. Also, use a rag where the screwdriver touches the caliper if you don't want any scratches.



    Quote Originally Posted by BetaOp9 View Post
    I had this same issue. Since you can't get the caliper retraction tool in to properly retract it, we got a breaker bar to apply some force onto the rotor between the outer surface of the rotor and the caliper bracket. Not a lot, just enough to give you some clearance to remove the floating caliper assembly.
    Rigi Cola.

    "The VR6 was an orchestra of well-tuned cylindrical delights." - jalopnik.com

  34. Member VDubCub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 12th, 2002
    Location
    Mesa, Az
    Posts
    162
    Vehicles
    88 GTI 16V (sold), 95GTI VR6 194kmi, 07MazdaSpeed3 GT, 02NB 1.8T
    10-07-2011 10:19 AM #34
    Got it...

  35. Member EngTech1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 30th, 2008
    Location
    Western - Up State NY
    Posts
    1,102
    Vehicles
    CC, V50 - T-Bird , MG , Volvo 122s , Volvo 144 , Volvo 242 GT
    10-13-2011 10:18 AM #35
    Dan

    http://
    I'll do My Best to Help You: ** Fall Sale is On ! ** -

    http://photobucket.com/Storm_Rooms_S...view=slideshow

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts