Hate hearing that obnoxious horn everytime you lock your car? Rather have it chirp? Then read on...
I honestly thought someone else would've done this by now, and to my dismay, they haven't. So, if you don't like it, tough I'm not an eloquent DIY writer, nor do I care to be. But, I'm getting bugged about how I did this all the time, and I'd like a final authoritive place to direct them.
I'm stealing most of the info from the other thread. Alot was mine anyway, but I'll try to give credit where credit is due at the end. If you can add anything, feel free. That thread was just getting a bit too difficult to understand and navigate if you didn't know exactly what you were doing. IIRC, my pics sucked. So, if you have better ones, send them my way and I'll replace them in my post. Anyhoos, on with the show.
What do I need?
-A "chirping" alarm horn, of course. P/N 1K0 951 605C
-You'll need a 3 pin connector for said horn P/N 1J0 973 703
-Repair wires for said connector (x3) P/N 000 979 131 (doesn't have to be that exact wire)
-6 pin connector for the Comfort/Convenience Module (referred to from here on out as the CCM) P/N 1K0-972-923
-Bracket/enclosure for alarm horn P/N 1K0 951 227
-VAG-COM! Access to it or someone with it, with a general working knowledge of long coding.
-T20/T25 driver for screws everywhere.
How do I do it?
I'm gonna break this up into 3 portions, hardware, wiring, and coding. Starting with hardware.
1. Remove right front wheel. If you can't handle removing the wheel without detailed pics and instructions, stop. You don't belong here. Go pay someone else to do this for you.
2. Remove right front wheel liner. Again, pretty self explanatory. A mess of T-25 screws and it falls out. Once removed, look inside above and to the rear of where your wheel was, and you'll see that annoying little horn.
3. In the above pic, you can see where the original horn bracket is riveted to the chassis. Drill and remove both of those rivets, unplug the original horn, and remove the whole assembly by just pulling down a bit and it'll fall out. Discard/store as you see fit.
4. Mount the new horn into the new bracket
5. Mount your new horn/bracket in place the same way the original was. Push it up to seat the upper clip visible in photo below, and either rivet or bolt the same two holes you drilled rivets out of before on the original horn.
1. First, you'll need to remove your glovebox to gain access to the CCM. I didn't take any pics of this, as I thought there was a DIY on removing the glovebox already I could just link to. Well, I don't see that now, but it isn't rocket science. If anyone has a link, I'll gladly add it. Once it's out, you'll see this:
Ok, now we know your original horn used 2 wires. Your new one has 3. Here we'll steal the diagrams bfourney posted in the other thread:
Quote, originally posted by bfourney »
There's 3 different connection scenarios depending on the year and equipment. The wiring is certianly different between them. It looks like the chirp style uses a 3rd connection to the Lin bus for triggering while the new style connects to through a realy controlled by the convenience module.
So, we'll try to break it down as simple as possible here.
MFA EQUIPPED CARS
Looking at the diagram above, we can see pin #1 on the original alarm horn goes to ground. Cut this wire at the old connector, we will reuse this to ground our chirp horn. Connect this to pin #2 on the new, 3 pin connector for your new alarm horn using one of your repair wires.
Now, pin #2 on the original horn went to an alarm horn relay. We are just going to ignore this, as we can't use that relay on this siren. Tape the wire off and just secure it out of the way.
So, back to your new 3 pin connector. You've got pin #2 taken care of. Pin #3 is easy, so knock that out real quick. It just needs a fused 12v constant power source. I used an existing 5amp fuse in the e-box beside the battery. Slot 20 IIRC. The only thing that matters is it gets constant power, doesn't matter where it comes from. You can go direct to the battery if you want, but use an inline fuse. (hook this up LAST, after everything else! Once you hook the power up, you cannot unhook it without the alarm siren going crazy )
Finally, pin #1. This needs to go to the CCM. Pin #6 in the leftmost 6 pin connector (see red wire in pic below)
You can actually hook it up just like that with a small female spade terminal, as I had to do for quite awhile before I could source the correct connector pictured below(p/n at beginning of thread, it is now the yellow wire in this pic):
To get this wire out to the new alarm horn, drop the CCM down (2 10mm nuts) and you'll see this foam behind it:
Move the foam out of the way, and you'll see a grommet:
Run the wire through that grommet as depicted. Now, pull your cowl panel up (around your wipers) and the wire will be coming through there. You can easily route it right down to the alarm horn from here and connect to pin #1.
That's it for wiring MFA guys!
Fear not, yours isn't any different really. Actually, for simplicity's purpose, it is no different. You can just do it exactly as described above.
However, you can skip a small step if you like. Your original pin #2 already runs to the CCM. You can reuse this wire if you want to relocate it to the proper pin. I'm not going into detail so as not to confuse anyone any further than I already have. It's just as easy to just do as described above.
Ok, wiring complete. Drink a beer or 3, you've earned it.
I has no pics. It's simple though, really. Log into your CCM, address word 46. Click long coding, and long coding helper. 3rd byte from the end, check all 3 options at the bottom relating to siren. Transfer coding, save, and voila. Close everything up, and start hitting your lock and panic buttons over and over again to enjoy
Again, my pics suck. If you have better, I'll glady replace and give credit where due. Same goes for additional pics/information. These are various pics over an 8 month period...some with cam, some with iphone, and most drunk.
As for credits, a quick thanks to BRM10984, bfourney, dsgvdub, 71sbeetle, tim birney, mattenfeu, and everyone else who helped out on the original thread.
I'm sure I'm forgetting something, so I'll review this again later. Enjoy