had the same code on mine and it seemed to run fine.... i replaced the sensor and the erased the code and it has not come back... it is more than likely your sensorwho knows though
#1
Just replaced timing belt and code
P0341 Camshaft Pos.Sensor Circ Range/Performance
will not clear. I did not have a clear mark on the fly wheel (notch) So I am between the two timing sensors and close to the TDC punch mark.
Car runs fine. Could I be one tooth off?
There is a line on the fly wheel but no notch.
#2
had the same code on mine and it seemed to run fine.... i replaced the sensor and the erased the code and it has not come back... it is more than likely your sensorwho knows though
#3
Did you have the code before changing the belt?EDIT: Went back and read your old post. Obviously it came on when the belt hit the skids. If it wasn't on before that, the timing is off. Go with the TDC "o" on the flywheel.
Post some pics of the marks.
Modified by FL 2.0L at 10:23 AM 8-3-2008
Modified by FL 2.0L at 10:23 AM 8-3-2008
#4
If you are as close as you think you can get, you can try adjusting the distributor.
#5
Yes, being one tooth off could cause the error. You can check your marks pretty easily without taking much more then the cover off the flywheel and the top timing belt cover. Set the engine to TDC, if those line up, check your rotar. Often, the intermidate gear will move (it doesn't take much) and move the rotar. The HALL sender is in the distributer (which throws this code). Like mentioned, if the rotar is off, you could get away with reposition the distributor to reset the timing without pulling the timing belt again.If this doesn't do it, you would probably have to replace the distributor. I've had to several times. Just make sure your marks are correct, and you're using the correct marks. I've made that mistake.
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#6
I think the distributor and cam shaft are right on. I had a problem with the crank shaft mark on the fly wjheel. There was no notch, just a thin line with some numbers under them and a "o" for TDC. So I used the crankshaft itself to set the position. It was very close to one of the square timing sensors on the flywheel and in sight of the "o" but NOT on the thin line. I will work my way back to the line one tooth at a time and see what happens.
#7
To answer the other question: No, I did not have any codes prior to the belt stripping all teeth. Then I did have the code. I reset it, and it comes back. But car runs fine![]()
#8
Quote, originally posted by roehlerich » I think the distributor and cam shaft are right on. I had a problem with the crank shaft mark on the fly wjheel. There was no notch, just a thin line with some numbers under them and a "o" for TDC. So I used the crankshaft itself to set the position. It was very close to one of the square timing sensors on the flywheel and in sight of the "o" but NOT on the thin line. I will work my way back to the line one tooth at a time and see what happens. Your crank timing is off...thats the reason behind the CEL code. You can get your TDC make one of two ways. Get out your flashlight...there is an arrow embossed on the lower timing belt cover. Rotate the crank pulley until you see a line (etched into the pulley) line up with the arrow. That sognifies TDC. If all else fails, pull plug #1 (closest to belt) and put something long and non-scratching into the plug hole and bring your cylinder up. Get your TDC that way.
BTW, on an ABA flywheel, these are the marks you are looking for:
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#9
UPDATE:Set the crank back by one tooth. Now I am on the line mark across the flywheel visable via the top round hole.
Now I reset the code, start the engine, all is good. Drive it around a lot, all is good (even over 3000 rpm)
I turn the car off, start it again, AND THERE IS MY CODE AGAIN !!!
I give up...
#11
timing issue if it wasnt there before you did the belt and now its there
after ... leads me to belive that its something you did and not just luck that something failed, id triple check it
#12
Now with everything back together it is impossible to check the marks.I will start all over...I am getting really fast at this...Les than 2 hours.
#13
You can check the marks in the time it takes to remove the upper cover, no?1) OT mark on the cam
2) rotor to the distributor hash
3) flywheel mark through the inspection hole.If your marks are off again, consider a sheared key on the back of the crank gear.
Modified by FL 2.0L at 9:44 PM 8-4-2008
#14
I guess I can turn the engine via the cam shaft to get to TDC?I will try...
First, off to PA inspection and emissions...HATE IT.
#15
I have read that turning the engine via the cam gear bolt is the wrong wayUse the 19mm bolt on end of crank.
ABA 2.0 in my '81 Vanagon: http://lh6.ggpht.com/_01e3MpPuKwI/Sx...20Runs2%20.jpg
#16
Quote, originally posted by Vanagon Nut » I have read that turning the engine via the cam gear bolt is the wrong way Use the 19mm bolt on end of crank.
Otherwise you are looking at stripped teeth on the belt again.
#17
You bunch of noobs....Jack your front passenger wheel off the ground and put the car in 3rd gear. Turn your engine over by turning your wheel. Makes timing WAY easier.
And forget that stupid mark on the flywheel! Use the arrow on the lower timing belt cover and the notch on the crank gear.
#18
heh heh....good idea.
Big wheel.... small wrench. Which one to use? Hmm.....
Neil.
ABA 2.0 in my '81 Vanagon: http://lh6.ggpht.com/_01e3MpPuKwI/Sx...20Runs2%20.jpg
#19
OK, distributor is off by a tooth now. How do I adjust without taking the belt off again? I will search...
#20
you have to take off the belt. line up your crank TDC and your cam timing. Loosen tensioner, take belt off cam sprocket, and then grab the belt with both hands...fore and aft of the cam gear. Keeping tension on the int shaft gear, shimmy the belt over the teeth of the crank gear till the rotor lines up. Then you can tighten everything back up. VERY simple procedure.
#21
DOne. I got it. I think. Distributor was off by one tooth. TEst drive later today.
#22
I hope that's it, but there has to be a reason the marks went from dead on to off.
#23
100 mile test drive complete. No code. Itwas one tooth (if that) on the distributor...WOW. Thanks for all the support on this forum.![]()
#24
Wow...thank god for this post...and this website....I had the same issues. Managed to get it set right after finding this....all is good!![]()
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to all!
Later
Phil
Confucious say Volkswagen like woman. Treat her right and she treat you right. Treat her wrong and she find way to get even.
#25
lucky last time mine did this bc my cam sproket keyway stripped...4x's on 4 cam gears... had to replace bottom end or crank. Also I've never used the timing marks on flywheel and i've timed mine 8 times now...since the cam gear problem and new heads. I always just found tdc in cylinder one via. 1/4in extension and lined up cam gear and rotor and i've always been dead on no problems...
Certified EFI Tuner. ASE Certified Technician.
Karl Performance
AWD Dyno
#26
i just did the 16v head swap on my 97 jetta the car ran fine then i did a water pump on it. next thing i know im gettin this damn code that wont go the hell away. timing it still dead on. iv tried three different distribs and it still does the same thing. where is the sensor at on a 97 jetta? i went to day apollo and they said it doesnt exist that is a speed sensor instead and is either on my transmission or who knows where. on an 89 gti (where i got my head) its in the dash so its not on the 16v head.....![]()
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#27
Hey Travis, on my car the mark on the crank pulley was off some how. I timed my car via the pulley first and it didn't even start. Then I checked the flywheel when I had the pulley lined up and the flywheel mark was no where in sight. That's how I knew the pulley was off. I have to time my car with the flywheel mark now. I have no idea what happened to my car. I can only guess that the key is sheared on the crank pulley. But, It hasn't given me any problems since I've had the car. I have no idea.The mark on the pulley and the mark on the flywheel should line up at the same time. It shouldn't matter which one you use. Unless something is screwed up.
96 Jetta 5pd
worked head w/276
C2 Stg2 (works like crap)
#29
Quote, originally posted by pagani71 » i just did the 16v head swap on my 97 jetta the car ran fine then i did a water pump on it. next thing i know im gettin this damn code that wont go the hell away. timing it still dead on. iv tried three different distribs and it still does the same thing. where is the sensor at on a 97 jetta? i went to day apollo and they said it doesnt exist that is a speed sensor instead and is either on my transmission or who knows where. on an 89 gti (where i got my head) its in the dash so its not on the 16v head..... ![]()
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http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1535079
I would read that..... and see if you can find any info. I would also post in the 16v forum, since most of the engines in here are 8v's
Modified by jetta09black at 5:06 AM 3-30-2009