I hope everyone else has $900 bucks worth of tools to install this mount.
#1
Since my final two engine mounts arrived I'll finish the write ups for them. The pendulum mount writeup can be found here http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3653871The passenger side engine mount is abit more involved than the lower mount, but still takes only around an hour to install.
Tools Needed:
You'll need;
torque wrench that has a range of around 15-50 ft-lb
10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 16mm, and 18mm sockets. A 13mm and 15mm swivel socket will be handy for this job
T25 torx for the bellypan
Extension
Ratchets
Breaker bar, and a cheater bar as well (cheater not pictured)
Jack and jackstand (not pictured)Getting started:
Jack up the car and place the jackstand on the driver's side.
Remove the 8 T25 torx screws and 3 10mm bolts holding the bellypan on.
SUPPORT THE ENGINE WITH THE JACK!!! this is VERY important. You'll want to put enough pressure on the engine to actually push the car up and then add another pump or two.I placed my jack pad at the rear corner of the pan like so. I'd recommend using a 2x4 if you have a steel jackpad.
Now go to the top and remove the factory mount by unbolting the washer fluid reservoir (10mm bolt)
Remove the 13mm bolt on the black bracket between the fender and factory mount (Not visible, under the coolant reservoir.) Here is where the 13mm swivel socket comes in handy. Set the bolt aside for later
Pull the factory bolts (16mm and 18mm) They will not be used again.
WHEN UNBOLTING THE 18MM BOLTS FROM THE MOTOR DO NOT ALLOW THE MOTOR TO DROP!!! if it starts to drop, you need more pressure on the jack!
You can now remove the factory mount by pulling it towards you and out.
^^^ In this picture you can see the black bracket. Do not remove it since it'll just make more work for you.
Mount comparison:
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The pics pretty much sum it up, the stock mount has massive amounts of flex and movement to it. Therefore, it is crap.
Installing the VF mount:
The hard part is already done if you've made it this far. The new mount is a perfect drop in fit. Install all the bolts BY HAND before tightening any of them. You may have to shift the mount around to get all bolt holes aligned. Reuse the 13mm bolt for the bracket, and tighten the VF supplied 15mm and 16mm bolts.
Torques;
Mount to engine: 60Nm (44 ft-lb)
Mount to frame: 40Nm (30 ft-lb and center bolt gets the same torque as well)
Mount bracket to black fender bracket: 25Nm (18 ft-lb)Torque everything twice and release the jack. Reinstall bellypan and remove jackstand. Stand back and admire your fancy new mount. Don't forget to reinstall the washer reservoir filler.
Don't forget to retorque after driving 200 miles. You've got no excuses not to!
All information contained herein is for educational purposes only. Don't blame me if you do something dumb and hurt yourself. As always Your Mileage May Vary.
Modified by S4mig at 2:43 AM 8-14-2008
#2
I hope everyone else has $900 bucks worth of tools to install this mount.
#3
Awesome writeup, how has this changed your driving experience?^ $900 in tools??
If you don't have a torque wrench and a socket set, you are not eligible to work on your vehicle
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#4
Quote, originally posted by justinperkins » Awesome writeup, how has this changed your driving experience? ^ $900 in tools??
If you don't have a torque wrench and a socket set, you are not eligible to work on your vehicle
X2 and LOL.
Awesome write up!!!
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#5
Well I just drove it 6 miles to go get gas.On startup, there is no denying the added vibration. At idle you can feel it through the dead pedal and very noticeably the brake pedal. As soon as you give it some throttle or start moving the vibration is unnoticeable.
Driving around town you get the feeling that engine has more urgency and response. There is no denying the shifts seem more responsive even when just driving slowly. Downshifts are now perfected, whereas the pedulum left something to be desired, this mount nails it. There is no rocking or snapping sensation on downshifts anymore.
With the pendulum after a few weeks of driving the vibration and benefits were no longer noticed. I think there is a breakin period with these mounts. If the vibration of this mount goes away but the benefits remain it would be perfect. As of now I give it 8.0 out of 10, only due to the vibration at idle.
#6
Have you done the Trans mount yet or are you planning to?Oh and it's only $900 of tools because he has a $700 Snap On digital tq wrench. Sockets aren't that bad, although the swivels are probably a little pricy.
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I have installed most of the popular bolt-on mods for a 2008 R32, minus suspension work. I know a lot about electronics and car audio, and have experience with VCDS ("vagcom"). I'm a radar/lidar countermeasure enthusiast. I like track days, autocross, and US Highway 129. I love aural pleasure.
WitW 2013 || IUM
#7
Quote, originally posted by ZPrime » Have you done the Trans mount yet or are you planning to? I'm waiting for my EVOMS intake to arrive to install the trans mount. Figure I'll do a two for one install and do both writeups.
#8
No need to do a writeup on the evoms, it doesn't get any easier than that, plus there's already a few. I'm selling mine if you want it![]()
#9
I'll just slide a pic into the mount writeup then. I'm about ready to cancel my order but its supposedly should be shipping about now. Why'd you pull yours and what filter/color does it have?
#10
Do you still have your S4? Silver S4/DBP R32 is a winning combo.Nice write-up. Your car is the one that sealed the deal for me when Jared posted the teaser Alcon shots over on, uh, that other forum.
#11
Yep still have it sitting back home in Ohio. Whenever I get the time I'll be doing the Tial 650 kit along with all the other stuff i have massed for it. Great car and I miss be able to drive it.
#12
True enough. Still waiting to see some logs for a Tial car with some proper tuning (like Tony).Any plans to add boost to the R32?
#13
Quote, originally posted by OcelotPotPie »
Any plans to add boost to the R32?Hell to the yes! I've been the most impressed with VF's so far.
#14
VF seems like a good choice. The HPA stuff seems nice but it's like MTM. Expensive and I dunno if it's worth it.If I can score an exhaust manifold for a decent price, I may piece one together. I've got the advantage of having AMD out here, so if I can convince Tony to come out and tune it it should work out okay.
I'm not looking for Stage 3 S4 power levels, but 400HP would be nice.
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#15
Quote, originally posted by S4mig » Well I just drove it 6 miles to go get gas. On startup, there is no denying the added vibration. At idle you can feel it through the dead pedal and very noticeably the brake pedal. As soon as you give it some throttle or start moving the vibration is unnoticeable.
Driving around town you get the feeling that engine has more urgency and response. There is no denying the shifts seem more responsive even when just driving slowly. Downshifts are now perfected, whereas the pedulum left something to be desired, this mount nails it. There is no rocking or snapping sensation on downshifts anymore.
With the pendulum after a few weeks of driving the vibration and benefits were no longer noticed. I think there is a breakin period with these mounts. If the vibration of this mount goes away but the benefits remain it would be perfect. As of now I give it 8.0 out of 10, only due to the vibration at idle.
I will chip in how I reduce the vibration when I install all 3 VF mounts on my mk4:
1. Lose the bolt a bit and start the car. Re-tie them to the the spec tq while the car engine is runing.
2. test drive and see at what RPM it vibrates
3. repeat step 1 but this time have your friend keep the rpm to what you found at step 2
Goofy's euro .:R32
#16
Quote, originally posted by IamGoofy » I will chip in how I reduce the vibration when I install all 3 VF mounts on my mk4:
1. Lose the bolt a bit and start the car. Re-tie them to the the spec tq while the car engine is runing.
2. test drive and see at what RPM it vibrates
3. repeat step 1 but this time have your friend keep the rpm to what you found at step 2
I'mm trying to understand the logic behind this exercise...somebody?
#17
Today the vibration is no longer noticeable through the dead pedal and the brake pedal has less felt vibration as well. So I'll up the rating to 9.0 out of 10.
#19
Has anyone tried to replace the rubber in the tranny mount with the mount offered by BFI? I replaced the dogbone insert with the BFI and I could definitely tell the difference.[IMG][/IMG]
These cost about $65 from BFI and are listed to work on the 2.0T and the 2.5L engines but not our engine. These seem like a good econ option to the $200 mounts...
#20
Great DIY![]()
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#21
Quote, originally posted by rysskii3 » Great DIY ![]()
Definitely. Thank you.
I will be keeping this in my bookmarks for future reference.
#22
ooo i want one now
#23
Quote, originally posted by S4mig » ... Here is where the 13mm swivel socket comes in handy. ... It must be immensely satisfying to have *exactly* the right tool for the job. I made do with a 13mm box wrench and a little coaxing from a hammer to break it loose.
Thanks for a great DIY thread, it was very helpful to me.