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    Thread: 8V Forum FAQ

    1. 07-13-2004 08:37 PM #26
      Who Can Play?: 87-92 Golf, GTI, Jetta, Fox, Cariolet & anything else running on Digifant II
      16 Valve Digifant II owners, this is a must do mod IMHO. Near stock or heavily moddified, 16Valve engines can really take advantage of this. Whether you know it or not, your 16 Valve has athsma & this is the cure.
      The Point: Significant increases in Horsepower & Torque throughout the entire rev range. I'll have some dyno numbers soon. If you're serious about big horsepower and you've done everything else (cam, intake, chip, exhaust) this is the next step. If you didn't catch that, this should be done last.
      Supplies Needed:
      1. Airflow Meter: (AFM) found on the 85-88 BMW 535i (most common), 635i, & 735i. It's the K Series Engine, a 3.5 Liter SOHC Inline 6.
      New AFMs for these cars are expensive, as high as $450+
      Used ones are very cheap from $40-$100 (I only paid $60, shipped to my door) & they can be found @ http://www.car-part.com/
      Search for 1987 BMW 535i under Airflow Meter
      Mine is from a 1987 BMW 535i it's a Bosch Unit.
      The part # is: 0280 203 027
      Note: Do not use the BMW AFMS found on the 325i, 328e, 525i, 528e etc. these units are the same size as our stock/OEM units. (they'll work fine, they just won't give you anymore power)
      Note: Your engine is not going to pull the vacuum of a 3.5 liter 6cyl. Therefor you need to reduce the spring tension to allow your engine to idle properly. (with my 2.0L ABA/1.8 head I found reducing tension 8 clicks to work best) If you're using a 1.8L I assume you'd need to reduce it more.
      Their's no wire splicing or cutting involved, it's a straight plug & play deal, it connects using your Factory Connector. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      2. 3 Inch Intake Piping: cut to desired length, I purchased mine @ Summit Racing Equipment & paid too much.
      You'll need atleast 2 feet & 3-4 hose clamps.
      AT Sears Hardware, I found 3inch Clothes Dryer Ducting in 2 foot sections for only $4.99 a section & it looks identical to the fancy Summit Racing Tubing I spent $60 on.
      Sears also has quick release 4" clamps for only $1.09 a piece.

      The stuff shown above is from Wynn Enviromental.
      It's used for dust collection in woodworking/metal working.
      I'm using it & so far has proved to be durable.
      It's extremely affordable at $33.00 for 10' (feet).
      http://www.wynnenv.com/flexible_hose.htm
      3. 3Inch K&N, ITG Racing Filter or other similar style cone air filter.
      again I probably paid too much, I bought my K&N @ Summit Racing for $36.

      I've replaced my K&N to compliment my cold air intake setup with this lower profile Dome Style Ractive SF400 Filter:

      I paid only $25.95 for it at Autotoys & it has a built in velocity stack & washable reusable filter.
      http://www.autotoys.com/x/cata....html
      4. Larger Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) depending on your mods, Cam & how well the head flows you'll need atleast a 3.5 bar to a 4.5 bar FPR. The 3.5 bar is a stock Porsche 944S Unit & can be found @ http://www.germanautoparts.com/ for $41.
      The part #s for the 3.5 bar FPR is:
      Bosch part# 0 280 160 263
      Porsche part # 944 110 198 03

      I'd suggest a 4bar FPR or better yet an adjustable FPR.
      Find out more about them in my 4bar/ Adjustable FPR Thread
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1523014
      To go larger you can crush a stock one yourself using DIY instructions @ http://www.snstuning.com/DIY/FPR/fpr.htm
      Ideally you'd want an adjustable FPR & a air/fuel ratio meter to tune it with but again not required.
      This is the Adjustable/Rising Rate FPR I'm using:

      http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp
      It's a Malpassi FPR from Bavarian Autosport for BMWs.
      It's an excellent unit but fits very tight & is not recomended for use with a G60 Valve Cover or other boxed valve covers.

      Depending on how far you go, you'll need bigger injectors.
      I'm using these: 24 lb Accels [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] I noticed a nice improvement in throttle response with these. Alot of the 16 valve Digi2 guys are using stock 24-26 lb G60 Injectors.

      This is the Air/ Fuel Ratio Meter I use, it's a Cyberdyne A/F Gauge. It's $36.95 @ Summit Racing, it works well & is accurate.


      5. A better chip is suggested but not required.
      AMS is by far the best chip currently available.
      http://www.advancedmotorsport.com/
      Increases injector pulse width(more fuel), has agressive timing maps, & raises the rev limit to 7,000 rpm. (with the right mods, you'll make power that high with this AFM)
      A cheap alternative is the SNS Cam Chip, it only increases fuel but you'll still have the stock 6,200 rpm rev limit & it does nothing for timing. It's only $39 & better than nothing.
      http://www.snstuning.com/

      This is what mine looks like.

      This is what no ISV/IAC motor & no PCV etc looks like.
      If you're wondering where the PCV pipe goes, It goes to a Reeses Peanut Butter Can w/a K&N style breather filter mounted on the lid. This home made breather is concealed behind the front bumper yet is easily accessible to empty as needed.
      If you really wanted to, I'm sure you can retain your ISV & or PCV. The ISV Port on mine is blocked off but you can go that route if you wish to retain the ISV function.
      FWIW mine idles like a watch @ 1,000 rpm I have no issues with it. It does idle low when it's cold about 850-900 ish but once wamed up it idles flawlessly.
      Adjusting the Idle is still the same, adjusting using the Idle Screw on the Throttle Body.

      16 Valve Digifant II users:
      This mod is a no brainer, you're obligated to do this if you want to make good power with your 16V Digi2. Many of us 8 Valve people have very low HP peaks around 5,000 rpm. Not because of the 8 Valve Design but because of the small AFM. With that in mind you gotta think this is seriously giving your 16 Valve asthma attacks beyond 5,000rpm. With a 16Valve head you'll be easily making HP deep into 7,000+ RPM Range.
      BMW AFM vs VW AFM Size comparison:

      The Door measurements:
      VW AFM 2" H x 2 1/16"th W /50mm H x 52mm W
      BMW AFM 2 9/16"th H x 2" W /65mm H x 50mm W
      Inlet Sizes:
      See Door Measurement for VW AFM
      BMW AFM 3" or 75mm in Diameter
      Outlet Sizes:
      VW AFM 2 9/16"th or 65mm in Diameter
      BMW AFM 3" or 75mm in Diameter
      This is the Inlet Ring that comes with the BMW AFM, so you don't have to deal with using round hose on a square hole.





      Modified by Digiracer at 9:36 PM 4-15-2005

    2. 07-23-2004 08:27 PM #27
      Just another thing... MK3 swaybars are an upgrade, and will fit.
      just a cheap alternative to some aftermarket sawybars, for the daily driver, weekend canyon carver.

    3. 08-04-2004 01:19 PM #28
      This Post is to update all Digi II owners on what chips are still availible for our injection systems. Alot of speculation is flying around as to what is actually still out there. I recently made some phone calls, and talked to some reps about what each company can do for us. Here is a difinitive list as of the date on this post...
      Techtonics Tuning carries a DIGI II chip. Power increase is quoted at 4 to 5 hp, however TT claims there chip will work in only 1/3 of the ECU's, Bosch being the brand of choice. The price of the chip... $110 plus shipping. The chip also comes with a Knock Sensor spacer, available by itself from TT.
      For those of you who can read German... here you go. This link is to a german tuning site, that claims to carry the DIGI II chip as well. The gains look pretty substantial from the numbers I can read, however, it is unknown at this time if the chip will actually work in our cars or not. Here is the link: http://www.powertec.at/datenbank/vw.html
      VW_Pilot apparently still sells the CSW chip. This chip works well for the price, however doesn't fix alot of the problems, but for the money, drivability is increased. Here is the link to his post: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=284195
      SNS Tuning does infact carry 2 chips for the Digi II injection. One is designed for a cam, and the other without. Not much is known what the chip does as a whole, however, each chip only runs you $39!!!! It may be a cheaper alternative to some of the other chips on the market. Here is the link to their site: http://www.snstuning.com/
      Last but not least, AMS. Anyone you have talked to that owns this chip, will tell you. It IS the difinitive chip for DIGI II. This chip not only adds more fuel, but aggressive ignition maps as well. It completely ignores the coolant temp sensor once warmed up, and drivability and power are better than ever. Your Rev limiter is raised to 7000 as well. AMS however doesn't list this chip on their site, but it is STILL AVAILIBLE!!!!! Call AMS directly at (310)-763-8000. Talk to the rep and make sure you have your ECU type and number handy. This chip will set you back... $200 to $250.
      There you have it. If you have anymore information on Digi II chips, please feel free to shoot me an IM, and I will edit my post.

    4. Banned V_dubber03's Avatar
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      08-13-2004 07:50 PM #29
      Quote, originally posted by rocco8v »
      Just another thing... MK3 swaybars are an upgrade, and will fit.
      just a cheap alternative to some aftermarket sawybars, for the daily driver, weekend canyon carver.

      To save topics overflooding swaybar upgrades are better then stressbars as in more noticeable differnce not saying stressbars are crap so dont buy them just upgrade swaysbars before stressbar swaybar info as rocco8v listed^^
      Sways=handle,driveabilty
      stressbars=flexiabilty and stabilty


      Modified by V_dubber03 at 1:17 AM 8-14-2004

    5. 09-06-2004 05:04 AM #30
      does anyone have a diagram of the sensors?

    6. 09-20-2004 12:12 AM #31
      What about some CIS tips???

    7. 09-21-2004 07:49 PM #32
      Here is the link to the difinitive cheap A$$ build up... Read it, learn it, live it...
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1584170

    8. 11-20-2004 11:47 PM #33
      What happened with the oil sump pipe?

    9. 12-03-2004 07:48 PM #34
      I've pretty done all 2.0 ABA 8v engine and 1.8 head mods incl. the AMS chip. What kind of improvement can I expect with the BMW AMF and your other recommendations? I'm thinking about not upgrading fuel injectors. Will I still see an improvement?
      Thanks

    10. 12-22-2004 12:50 PM #35
      think bout using a wideband first.
      more fuel pressure is all you need to get a nice 13:1 a/f to redline. FPR's are cheap and easy to squash.
      widebands are common all over the town nowadays. borrow one.
      btw, you guys still haven't tried underclocking the ECU by 10% of the crystal on the motherboard?

    11. Member TheTimob's Avatar
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      01-17-2005 02:17 AM #36
      Here's my list of techtips - most of which apply to A1 and A2 8v Engines. More to come.

      Fixed URL


      Modified by timbo2132 at 9:48 AM 3-15-2005

    12. 01-28-2005 12:04 PM #37
      I'll order a 4.0 FPR and see what happens. I'm new to vwvortex; what's a "wideband"?
      thanks

    13. 01-28-2005 11:02 PM #38
      A "wideband" is a term used for a Wideband O2 sensor. What this does, is allows you to see your air/fuel ratio in close detail, to accuratly tune your Fuel Injection system. Most used on turbo'd cars, but is used by other tuners on N/A cars.

    14. 02-13-2005 01:52 AM #39
      bump, looking for information on how to perform an aba bottom end swap to my 1.8l 8v, what are the neccasary parts i need for the swap and is there anything i should know about how to do this the easiest way possible? help please if you can

    15. 02-14-2005 01:11 AM #40
      look up the definitive cheap A$$ build up. Also, for more info, go to techtonicstuning.com, and they can help.

    16. 04-05-2005 03:18 PM #41
      Wanted to give the how to once and for all to clear up all confusion...
      You need just two parts...
      Non a/c alternator pulley
      3/8" x 41 3/8" belt (can get from carquest for 10$)
      Start by disconneting your battery
      Remove alternator (13mm tensioner on top and allen head bolt on bottom)
      Now loosen your P/S pump and remove the belt.
      Loosen the tension on your a/c compressor and remove the a/c belt.
      Remove a/c compressor from car (tensioner nut on top and two allen head bolts on bottom at pivot point)
      Get that heavy and more then likely broke a/c compressor out of there.
      Now remove the pulley from your alternator and replace with the non a/c pulley.
      Reinstall the alternator.
      Belt routing..
      Alternator belt goes around the inner crank pulley, inner water pump pulley and alternator pulley, once belt is installed check tension at the alternator and adjust as necessary.
      Reinstall the power steering pump belt and tighten that bad boy up.
      You are done, you now have no a/c and about 20lbs less on the front end of the car. You should notice that your steering got a little bit lighter and the throttle response quickened a tad.
      Enjoy..
      Don't listen to any other posts claiming that you need brackets, crank pulleys, alternator mounts etc...
      I did this last night and it worked flawlessly. best benefit I can see so far is that the oil filter is unobstructed. I can get my whole arm down there to grab the oil filter. Should make oil changes ten times easier.

    17. 04-20-2005 11:24 PM #42
      i am fairly new to the dub scene, so please help out. i am trying to buy a catalytic conv. for my 91 gti 8v, but all the choices are broken up into 1.8L "PL" Engine or 1.8L 4 Cylinder, "PF" Engine , so my question is how do i figure out which i have. thanks for the help. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    18. Member TheTimob's Avatar
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      04-23-2005 02:26 PM #43
      The PL is a 16v
      I have an Engine Database Here:

      Engine Database

    19. 04-25-2005 10:38 AM #44
      thanks for the info, very helpful [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    20. 04-30-2005 12:33 PM #45
      Okay I just wrote all this for a post on how to time an 8v engine. After I got done I noticed that the dudes engine was a 16V so after cursing I figured I would copy it in here for reference
      This is pretty much word for word out of the bently on how to properly ignition time a 8V digifant engine as well as checking for timing advance.

      Unscrew the plug on the top of the transmission bell housing. I think its a 17mm allen. I used an easy out for mine cause i'm a redneck but one way or another it has to come out. Next, let the car run untill it gets up to normal operating temp or after the radiator fan cycles once or twice. Now, disconnect the coolant temp sensor (blue one right in front of the engine head on a coolant water neck). Next, rev the engine 3 times past 3000 rpm to clear the computer. Now connect your timing light probe wire to the coil wire going into the distributor. Rev the engine steady at about 2300 rpm's. Now aim the timing light into the hole and you should be able to see a steady spot on the flywheel. If you move the distributor by hand you can see how is adjusts the positions of the flywheel at which the light hits it. Its best to have 2 people so one person can try to keep the idle at 2300 while you move around the dizzy. You need to look for the small mark (its an indentation on the flywheel) to the left of the TDC mark which looks like a piece of the flywheel kinda sticking out like a tab. Align the center of the bell housing hole with the small timing mark by moving the dizzy slowly while trying to maintain 2300 rpms. Once you get it tighten down the dizzy. Re-connect the coolant sensor and rev the engine a couple times. Now at this point you should be good to go but since your already there you might as well check the timing advance. With the coolant sensor connected, point the timing light back in the hole. If you rev the engine from idle to say 3000 rpms you should see the fly wheel change positions and then as the car goes back to idle the flywheel returns back to its idle position that it started from.
      Its def a PITA but a poorly timed engine well.....runs poor.
      Good Luck

    21. 08-10-2005 04:57 PM #46
      i've converted a cis head to digi by getting the digi screw-in injector shrouds ( like $5 a peice ) and replacing the brass cis injector shrouds with the digi ones. I did two heads already both heads only had one fuel rail mounting hole line up, so either drill and tap for the other one or just use one ( i would drilland tap for durability ) I would prolly advise in getting new injector o-rings at the same time

    22. Member SooprmanX's Avatar
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      08-14-2005 01:36 AM #47

    23. 09-07-2005 10:48 PM #48
      Sombody should Post a How to on the Ever so popular question " How do i remove my metal timing belt cover ". I've seached many times and never really got a clear answer on it.

    24. 09-18-2005 10:32 AM #49
      Quote, originally posted by Germnpwr »
      i've converted a cis head to digi by getting the digi screw-in injector shrouds ( like $5 a peice ) and replacing the brass cis injector shrouds with the digi ones. I did two heads already both heads only had one fuel rail mounting hole line up, so either drill and tap for the other one or just use one ( i would drilland tap for durability ) I would prolly advise in getting new injector o-rings at the same time

      VW Fox digifant (90-93) injector inserts will fit into any cis/cis-e head, including big valve solid lifters (and 16V intakes) for efi coversions. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    25. Member nitrous16v's Avatar
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      09-30-2005 05:12 PM #50
      i just spoke with AMS advanced motorsport solutions and they still offer digi chip/ecu upgrades , rev limit is increased to 7000rpms and on the dyno they gained 11hp in the mid range and 8 hp peak. the dyno chart shows 93hp/105 ft/lbs tq stock and 102hp and 108ft/lbs tq with AMS chip/ecu upgrade. you need to send your ecu to them. application are
      1987 1/2 to 1992 49state golf/jetta
      1987 1/2 to 1990 california golf/jetta
      1990-1992 cabrio
      their contact info is.
      AMS
      1-310-763-8000
      http://www.amspower.com

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