Here's my list of techtips - most of which apply to A1 and A2 8v Engines. More to come.
Modified by timbo2132 at 9:48 AM 3-15-2005
I'll order a 4.0 FPR and see what happens. I'm new to vwvortex; what's a "wideband"?
A "wideband" is a term used for a Wideband O2 sensor. What this does, is allows you to see your air/fuel ratio in close detail, to accuratly tune your Fuel Injection system. Most used on turbo'd cars, but is used by other tuners on N/A cars.
bump, looking for information on how to perform an aba bottom end swap to my 1.8l 8v, what are the neccasary parts i need for the swap and is there anything i should know about how to do this the easiest way possible? help please if you can
look up the definitive cheap A$$ build up. Also, for more info, go to techtonicstuning.com, and they can help.
Wanted to give the how to once and for all to clear up all confusion...
You need just two parts...
Non a/c alternator pulley
3/8" x 41 3/8" belt (can get from carquest for 10$)
Start by disconneting your battery
Remove alternator (13mm tensioner on top and allen head bolt on bottom)
Now loosen your P/S pump and remove the belt.
Loosen the tension on your a/c compressor and remove the a/c belt.
Remove a/c compressor from car (tensioner nut on top and two allen head bolts on bottom at pivot point)
Get that heavy and more then likely broke a/c compressor out of there.
Now remove the pulley from your alternator and replace with the non a/c pulley.
Reinstall the alternator.
Alternator belt goes around the inner crank pulley, inner water pump pulley and alternator pulley, once belt is installed check tension at the alternator and adjust as necessary.
Reinstall the power steering pump belt and tighten that bad boy up.
You are done, you now have no a/c and about 20lbs less on the front end of the car. You should notice that your steering got a little bit lighter and the throttle response quickened a tad.
Don't listen to any other posts claiming that you need brackets, crank pulleys, alternator mounts etc...
I did this last night and it worked flawlessly. best benefit I can see so far is that the oil filter is unobstructed. I can get my whole arm down there to grab the oil filter. Should make oil changes ten times easier.
i am fairly new to the dub scene, so please help out. i am trying to buy a catalytic conv. for my 91 gti 8v, but all the choices are broken up into 1.8L "PL" Engine or 1.8L 4 Cylinder, "PF" Engine , so my question is how do i figure out which i have. thanks for the help. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
thanks for the info, very helpful [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
Okay I just wrote all this for a post on how to time an 8v engine. After I got done I noticed that the dudes engine was a 16V so after cursing I figured I would copy it in here for reference
This is pretty much word for word out of the bently on how to properly ignition time a 8V digifant engine as well as checking for timing advance.
Unscrew the plug on the top of the transmission bell housing. I think its a 17mm allen. I used an easy out for mine cause i'm a redneck but one way or another it has to come out. Next, let the car run untill it gets up to normal operating temp or after the radiator fan cycles once or twice. Now, disconnect the coolant temp sensor (blue one right in front of the engine head on a coolant water neck). Next, rev the engine 3 times past 3000 rpm to clear the computer. Now connect your timing light probe wire to the coil wire going into the distributor. Rev the engine steady at about 2300 rpm's. Now aim the timing light into the hole and you should be able to see a steady spot on the flywheel. If you move the distributor by hand you can see how is adjusts the positions of the flywheel at which the light hits it. Its best to have 2 people so one person can try to keep the idle at 2300 while you move around the dizzy. You need to look for the small mark (its an indentation on the flywheel) to the left of the TDC mark which looks like a piece of the flywheel kinda sticking out like a tab. Align the center of the bell housing hole with the small timing mark by moving the dizzy slowly while trying to maintain 2300 rpms. Once you get it tighten down the dizzy. Re-connect the coolant sensor and rev the engine a couple times. Now at this point you should be good to go but since your already there you might as well check the timing advance. With the coolant sensor connected, point the timing light back in the hole. If you rev the engine from idle to say 3000 rpms you should see the fly wheel change positions and then as the car goes back to idle the flywheel returns back to its idle position that it started from.
Its def a PITA but a poorly timed engine well.....runs poor.
i've converted a cis head to digi by getting the digi screw-in injector shrouds ( like $5 a peice ) and replacing the brass cis injector shrouds with the digi ones. I did two heads already both heads only had one fuel rail mounting hole line up, so either drill and tap for the other one or just use one ( i would drilland tap for durability ) I would prolly advise in getting new injector o-rings at the same time
Sombody should Post a How to on the Ever so popular question " How do i remove my metal timing belt cover ". I've seached many times and never really got a clear answer on it.
Quote, originally posted by Germnpwr » i've converted a cis head to digi by getting the digi screw-in injector shrouds ( like $5 a peice ) and replacing the brass cis injector shrouds with the digi ones. I did two heads already both heads only had one fuel rail mounting hole line up, so either drill and tap for the other one or just use one ( i would drilland tap for durability ) I would prolly advise in getting new injector o-rings at the same time
VW Fox digifant (90-93) injector inserts will fit into any cis/cis-e head, including big valve solid lifters (and 16V intakes) for efi coversions. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
i just spoke with AMS advanced motorsport solutions and they still offer digi chip/ecu upgrades , rev limit is increased to 7000rpms and on the dyno they gained 11hp in the mid range and 8 hp peak. the dyno chart shows 93hp/105 ft/lbs tq stock and 102hp and 108ft/lbs tq with AMS chip/ecu upgrade. you need to send your ecu to them. application are
1987 1/2 to 1992 49state golf/jetta
1987 1/2 to 1990 california golf/jetta
their contact info is.
I have all these parts for the intake ready and the BMW MAF but when I tried to hook it up it didn't work.
By that I mean the car just didin't start after installing the new intake.
Even after when I tried to put on my old air box the car won't start.
And what do I do with all the vaccum hoses from the old air box?
how do I install a 2.0 ABA bottom end on a 1.8 8v JH engine?
direct me to a post please
Solid lifter heads only came on CIS cars (not CIS-E)
size, year, model, .....................HP, Torque, ......................code, fuel system
1.5L 78-79 R/S/C.....................71@5800 73@3500................EH CIS
1.6L 76-80 R/S........................78@5500 83@3200.............EE, EJ CIS
1.7L 81 - 84 R/J/S/PU..............74@5000 90@3000.................EN CIS
1.8L 83-84 GLI/S/GTI/C...........90@5500 105@3000...............JH CIS
1.8L 85-89 J/C.........................90@5500 105@5500...............JH CIS
1.8L 85-88 G/J.........................85...................... ......................GX CIS
1.8L 85-86 G/J.........................90@5500 98@3250.................MZ CIS
1.8L 87-90 Fox........................81@ ......................................JN CIS
1.8L 85 GTI/GLI......................100@5500 105@3000..............HT CIS-E
1.8L 86-88 GTI/GLI.................102@5250 110@3250..............RD CIS-E
1.8L 87-92 G/J........................100@5400 109@3800..............RV Digifant
1.8L 90-93 Fox........................83@.................... .....................ABG Digifant
1.8L 87-92 G/J/GTI..................105@5400 114@3800.............PF Digifant
1.8L 90-92 Cabriolet...............94@5400 100@3000...............2H Digifant
1.8L 89-92 Corrado................158@....................... .................PG Digifant
1.8L 98+ Passat / Audi A4......150@5700 155@1750-4600....Motronic
2.0L 93-98 G/J/Cab.................115@5400 135@3200.............ABA Motronic
2.0L Audi 80 2.0E....................115@5400 122@3200.............3A CIS-E
2.0L Beetle / 99 Jetta..............115@5200 122@2600.............AEG Motronic
I've got a lovely bunch of coconuts...
i dont know what to do? i have a 86 jetta coupe and i want to put a new intake on it from a digi 2 91 mk2 gti. its a itg cone filter. would it work? im scared to try and touch my stock intake for the 8v. theres all sorts of tubes and metal things going to the airbox. if you can help that be awsome.
Modified by whamdat at 4:28 PM 1-3-2006
Modified by whamdat at 4:29 PM 1-3-2006
No it wont work. You need the cis adapter, ive seen them on ebay a few times.
early volvo ....240 non-turbo I believe.... has what your looking for.
thanks alot man that saves me a **** load of time doing nothing.
is there a DIY thread on an ABA bottom end swap?
Injector Cups Explained
CIS injector cups are bigger than CIS-E and Digi cups
CIS-E and DIGI injector cups are the same size (CIS-E injectors will fit into digi cups and likewise for the reverse)
CIS and CIS-E injectors are the same size.
A CIS head can run CIS-E injection
A CIS-E head can run Digi injection
A Digi head can run CIS-E injection
you CAN run without the airshrouds with no noticable change in performance (from what I've experienced)
Tranny drain plugs will screw into the head in place of injector cups on CIS heads when running carbs (or maybe it was cis-e digi...i'll find out for sure and edit)
IM me for ABA swap info, carb info, or anything really
Modified by Lowjack at 12:31 PM 7-7-2006
I've got a lovely bunch of coconuts...
You CAN run a solid cam in a hydraulic head BUT the head will have to be clearenced aroung the lifters to allow room for those big ass lobes
Also you can make a solid lifter head run hydraulic cam followers (they ain't lifters people cuz they push down).
For running hyrdo followers in a SL head place shims under the lifter to achive the correct heigth
Benefits to running a solid cam in a hydro head are minimum of .012" lift and 13° of rotation
Name---------------Part #----------------Duration----Lift-----Lobe-------In. open
Std U.S. Solid---049 109 101C ----------222°-----.405"-----110°------ 1.3° BTDC 1.5-1.6L std. U.S. spec
Std A2 Hyd-"A"---026 109 101-----------209°-----.393"-----110°----- -5.6° BTDC '85-87' GX,HT Engines
Std A2 Hyd-"G"---026 109 101 G--------214°-----.400"-----110°----- -2.8° BTDC '85-92' RD,PF,RV Engines
Std A3 2.0L-8v---048 109 101D---------212°-----.400"-----113.5°--- -7.7° BTDC '93-'98
Modified by Lowjack at 12:22 AM 5-26-2006
I've got a lovely bunch of coconuts...
Link for timing belt job no worky....HOW THE HELL do it get the upper timing belt cover off???
Fix da links yo I saw some other ones that were broken as well
If your replacing any vacuum hose I recommend ordering it from McMaster-Carr. They are an industrial supply company that I order from for work all the time. Out of curiosity I looked for silicone vacuum hose on their website and was surprised to find a larger selection than anywhere else I've seen and for prices at least $0.10 per foot less. I bought the hose with Durometer rating of 70 and found it to be slightly stiffer than the stuff you can get at Autozone (or on the 1internets). Me likey.
Quote, originally posted by VdubFeind » Somebody should Post a How to on the Ever so popular question " How do i remove my metal timing belt cover ". I've searched many times and never really got a clear answer on it.
1) Remove nuts on valve cover with 10mm socket
2) Remove socket head bolt with rubber grommet in center of metal upper timing belt cover with 8mm hex key.
3) Lift timing belt cover vertically.
4) Unhook/disconnect vacuum lines and throttle cable from valve cover and lift valve cover vertically.
5) Replace cork valve cover gasket with a rubber one ($10, usual places). [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
6) Leave upper timing belt cover off because your car is sexier with it off. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
7) Reposition valve cover and re-torque nuts to ~7 in-lbs.
8) Connect vacuum lines to valve cover and hook throttle cable back into its little home
If you just want the cover off skip steps 4,5 and 8.
BTW I'm going by memory on the sizes of the hex key and the socket, correct me if I am wrong.
I did a aba swap in my 91 jetta i am converting it to dual weber dcoe 40's. I need to know what fuel pump and what fuel presure regulatur to use.
If you find your windshield washer jets are clogged and are afraid to use a needle to stab the crap out of them, try this:
Get a vacuum tester device (I use Mighty Vac) and attach the end to the tubes that let the water go to the jets. Pump it! It should suck all the junk right from the jets, but make sure it doesn't go into the vacuum device. There ya go, a simple problem solve-Ed.
Quote, originally posted by Lowjack » Eh, $900 won't cut it
That's the motor I just finished. Needs to be rejetted but it's running
If you're goin carbs yo need to AT LEAST get Autotech eurosport cams and hd springs. ($500) Not needed but but the gains are huge and the carbs won't perform as well on the stock cams
You'll need aftermarket fans mounted to the front of the radiator ($65 shipped for 2 12" fans that move ALOT of air.
Bypass your main pump (frame mounted) and use the tranfer pump only
Holley 12-803BP It's a new FPR with a return line. It says it starts at 4.5psi but i turned it down to 3 with no problems (Dellorto's don't like anuthing higher than 3.5psi)
you're gonna need a fuel guage, $20
The distributor is off of a non-turbo mid 80's Saab 900. Use the Saab rotor but the vw 16v cap (the saab rotor autozone has in stock for like $5)
If your kit doesn't come with a water outlet (some do) you'll have to have the stock one cut and rewelded (it has mag in it so good luck fingind someone to weld it...mag rod is very expensive)
The wiring is pretty straight forward, I removed everything having to do with the ecu and left the rest. Even the MFA still works.
I also use the stock ICM allthough the GM 4-pin would be the next in line to use.
I've got a lovely bunch of coconuts...
you can do alot to your 8v wut do you have done to it now , i ahve a 8v i bet hondas ,
are their other mods required for the pvc tube to fit, can anyone provide info. how to
Is the MKI/MKII 8V motor interference?
I was looking in my Bentley last night, Section 3, page 19 (?), and there was a note on the turning the cam by hand while doing a T-belt replacement, and the possibility of the valves hitting hitting the piston...but it was not clear on it being for a 16v or an 8v. I read this thread, but didnt find the answer (unless i passed right over it).
Modified by 16vnotchback at 5:12 AM 9-1-2006