I may have finally found "it".
This may have the finest trigger I've ever experienced in a polymer gun. If it shoots as good as it looks/feels/handles...I'm f_cking in love.
lack of an ambi safety is a bummer though.
I am really interested in the PPQ. I have a PPS and like it a whole lot, and I've heard nothing but good things about the PPQ. I have a friend that I have taught to shoot who is looking for a first gun, and this is one of the options.
Let me know impressions once you shoot it some!
I just tried to drive to the range, but some a-hole got a 13 car pile up started on the bridge which heads to the range...so I'll be going tonight instead.
Only downside so far, just toying with it --- the slide release is nearly impossible to thumb activated, so I'll be sling-shotting it properly until it wears in. Everything is gravy. Will post review after slingin' some rounds.
My RIA 1911 was brutal on the thumb at first as well. I just sat on the couch watching TV locking it back and releasing over and over and over again every evening for like a week.. It is still much stiffer then my XD so it makes me pause the first mag or two everytime I have it at the range but much better then out of hte box.
In all those classes, magwells are absolutely legal. I have them on all four of my competition 1911/2011s. They just need to fit the size and weight requirements.
BTW, the XD series of pistols is also not legal in SSP for IDPA, its considered single action so therefore ESP. It is legal for USPSA production though.
Went to Lowe's to find a new stain to use on my AK wood today. Found one that looked promising... and the initial results looked fantastic. Which leads me to ask, "WTF was wrong with the other stain I had?". The other one was literally like painting the wood brown. No grain showed through, or anything like that... I probably could have obtained similar results from just spray painting them. Either way, the new Oil Stain appears to have worked fantastically. I'll try and take some pics in the morning after its had a little while to dry.
After that, I decided to stop by Gander Mountain to look around (their firearm prices are usually too astronomical to buy anything, but they do have a great selection - so its a good place to get hands on before ordering through a small dealer). Was mainly looking to see if they had any 8mm Mauser ammo in stock for Deer Season... they did, but at $40/box... I don't think so. Also wanted to see if they had any SA 1911's in-stock (no) and see what long guns they had. Had a nice Loaded M1A and a real nice Benelli M4 Super 90 - both priced at MSRP, as usual.
But as I turned to leave, I saw it... two of them, actually. Debated for a good 20 minutes and ultimately decided I didn't want to let the opportunity pass.
Springfield Armory M1903. I thought the sling said "U.S.M.C. 1943", with the U missing from a bad stamp job, but in the picture, it kind of looks like S.M.Ca... so I dunno on that one. Definitely a 1943 though. From the checks I've been doing, it appears to have been made in the first month or two of 1917. It was obviously reworked later, as the barrel is stamped "SA 4-42", and the bolt appears to be a Brown & Sharpe (B&S) WWII Replacement. Still has a bright bore, as well.
They had another 1903 there, but it was a Rock Island Arsenal manufacture... and the bore was dark... very dark. I might go back on Monday and get the serial number on it, just to see when it was made, etc. Both were decently priced, imo... which I found surprising. Sort of in the middle for 1903 pricing. There was an older guy there that was helping me, asked if I liked old military rifle... "Oh Yeah!". To which he responded that he had a MINT Mauser and a nice M1 Garand in the back. He showed me the Mauser... I couldn't identify it right away, but it was Mint, but not a German build. Looked eastern block - Russian like writing on the side (Pretty darn sure its not a VZ). The M1, he said, still needed to be sent out for inspection. Said to check back in a week or so. I didn't even think to ask what brand it was or anything. Oh well. Hopefully its a nice Springfield. I'll check on it next week though.
Took the new rifle out today. Shot 300 rnds of the nastiest, dirtiest stuff that I've ever used. But man was it cheap! Didn't skip a beat either, I'm pretty happy with the BCM upper. I got the sights more dialed in, reliably hitting bowling pins at nearly 200 yards - on a rest. I wish I was good enough to do that standing.
Also put a few mags through the XDm - good times.
Last edited by TurboWraith; 11-19-2011 at 08:37 PM.
This is a gigantic grey area...where people start to argue consistently. Some ARs will work with it, some won't.
In general steel casings will not expand as uniformly and easily as brass. This leaves some gaps in the chamber on occasion. Most forms of Soviet/Russian ammo are lacquered or finished in a material which is used to preserve the rounds and enhance lubricity. When a chamber heats up (ie. shooting a mag dump, or several magazines in a row, etc.) the lacquer or coating on some of these rounds will begin to strip off, and fill the gaps in the chamber.
Once this layer of gunk starts forming up, if you leave a round in the hot chamber for too long (a steel or brass round) you stand a really good chance of it cooling, and becoming glued into the chamber. This is then immensely compounded by the relatively non-tapered 5.56 (when a round is tapered like a 7.62x39 round, the round extracts much easier). Now you've glued an already tough-to-extract round into the chamber.
Now, can you slap a magazine of steel cased Russian ammo in your AR and fire? Sure, but chances are, if you run 2-3 magazines through the gun, and leave a round chambered, it'll stick. I had an LWRC which stuck on a round of Wolf after 4 20-round magazines being shot at a decent pace.
Some guns handle this better than others. But when a casing becomes stuck you also risk extra stress put on the extractor. Steel cased stuff is okay for range plinking etc., but there are several prominent instructors who forbid the use of steel cased ammunition in AR's during their classes.
Its up to you if you want to use it or not. I do suggest seriously thorough cleaning as most Russian ammos are also rather dirty (lots of powder residue).
-----You don't see steel case causing problems in AKs for a variety of reasons:
1) system is overgassed and generally much stronger than an AR
2) AK rounds are tapered (oddly the 5.56 AKs are the least reliable, go figure)
3) AKs have a much stronger extractor
4) The AK bolt carrier moves 150% of the distance needed to extract/chamber a round. This combined with a positive 5-1 carrier to bolt weight...means casings get tossed (ever see an AK eject casings? They go about 30 feet as opposed to 7-10 feet of an AR).
Last edited by Elbows; 11-19-2011 at 09:39 PM.
^In an AR, obviously. All I own is steel cased ammo for my AK's, lol. Even Hornady VMAX in steel cases.
Intersting discussion. This stuff that I fired was poly coated, dull grey in appearance. It didn't hiccup on me at all, and was accurate enough to be effective a real world ranges. And while is was -very- dirty, cleaning it wasn't the end of the world. Most of the carbon residue just wiped off with a little clp and a rag. Cleaned the chamber out with a chamber brush as well. You'd never know it was dirty at all.
Ok, can you tell me which wolf your running??
as I understand it wolf is just a distributor and others manufacture the ammo.
I've tried "tula" wolf and it was absolute crap, sounded and felt like shooting 22mag. the cases stuck so hard in the chamber I had to use a cleaning rod to get them out. I should add, the gun wasn't hot. it will do this first round out cold barrel.
as I understand it they use more then one manufacture and Tula is on the bottom, and "military classic" is the better stuff. is this your experience??
FWIW, I use mostly Baurnal Brown Bear (the nasty lacquered stuff) I would have no reservations using it in a SHTF situation because it has and I am confident will always operate, as it always has without issue.
though I do prefer the "golden bear" because it looks big time dropping a few hundred "brass" hollow points... even better is watching scroungers picking them up because they think its brass
Last edited by dj age one; 11-20-2011 at 01:34 PM.
I'd have no problem shooting steel in an AR if it worked...but I'd still hesitate to say, load my AR for home defense up with it - or go out on patrol with it. Kinda like shooting WWB, sure it works - but not something I'd trust too much or stock in my defense handgun.
I did get the gun pretty hot, didn't have problems holding onto it, but I wouldn't have wanted to touch the barrel. I ran through the last two mags in a little over a minute or so.
And no, its certainly not something that I would want to rely on for SD or anything. Aside from it possibly causing a malfunction, its only 55gr and fairly low velocity compared to the good stuff. But, I got to pull the trigger 300 times and enjoy loud noises - works for an afternoon of shooting IMO.
Those get a real bad rep once they heat up - have you seen this happen? At least you can shoot it better than the A-Team.
EDIT: Just saw you said non-skinny barrel ---- was this why they'd go to sh_t after heating up previously? Cool that you have a thicker contour barrel!