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    Thread: Sale: 02M Steel Billet Flywheels, Sachs & Clutchnet Clutch Kits, Free Ground Lower 48

    1. Forum Sponsor FourSeasonTuning.com's Avatar
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      04-20-2012 03:22 PM #141
      Thank you!
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      04-20-2012 10:16 PM #142
      Quote Originally Posted by FourSeasonTuning.com View Post
      Thank you!
      No thank you.

      Also for those wondering. Stock clutch and pp with a 16.5 lbs fst flywheel. No chatter at all and pretty damn happy with it so far after 200 miles. Can't wait to open it up.

    3. 05-01-2012 04:16 PM #143
      sent you a pm on friday.. any help woud be great

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      07-11-2012 07:34 PM #144
      the stage 2 kit only made it about a year for me with my power levels i destroyed it because under high boost it started slipping.
      i <3 haters

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      08-05-2012 09:53 PM #145
      The flywheel had nothing to do with this. Where is the picture of the clutch disc and pressure plate?

      Did your power level exceed the 375-400 max flywheel torque rating of most stage 2 kits?
      The longevity all depends on the driver and driving style. This thread was started in 2008 so if these were not lasting under somewhat normal conditions it would be known. Every clutch company has been critiqued on the forums.

      South Bend/ DXD offer a one year 12K mileage warranty so you are out on time and mileage.
      For example, other customers with stock and modified vehicles using various turbo sizes (K03 K04 GT28 GT30 GT35 etc) are using these clutch kits. The 24V VR6 with a 10 bolt crank flange also share the same disc and pressure plates are used on the 1.8T 02M and these make more torque than the 1.8T.

      The next step up price and quality wise is the stage 3 with a Sachs race engineered pressure plate. Some users try to stretch the limit of their selected kit ( stage 2 VS. stage 3 the main reason is the cost factor the stage 3 with the sachs race cover is on average $400- $450 more than the stage 2).

      I have a 5 cylinder S4 Quattro with 125K on the OE clutch kit and the car has been chipped for ten years. Then about two years ago a larger turbo kit w/ GT371R rated a 430 @ was added to stock clutch and does not slip @23 PSI.
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      10-25-2012 03:19 PM #146
      Just ordered one

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      10-25-2012 05:06 PM #147
      Thank you!
      Tracking info in Paypal, bolt torque specs sent by email.
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      10-30-2012 09:21 AM #148
      Super fast ship time! Thanks allot!

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      11-19-2012 08:35 PM #149
      Alot to do these days?

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      11-20-2012 04:37 PM #150
      Quote Originally Posted by npvk_x View Post
      Alot to do these days?
      We are busy in the shop with repairs, and shipping product.

      Do you have a question about a clutch kit?
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      11-21-2012 11:40 AM #151
      Quote Originally Posted by FourSeasonTuning.com View Post



      02M Install Kit FITS VW AND AUDI 6 SPEED TRANSVERSE MOUNT FWD AND QUATTRO

      02M Install Kit
      What exactly is this? Doesnt look like an install kit at all. Why would I need it?
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      11-21-2012 01:50 PM #152
      Quote Originally Posted by Goheels555 View Post
      What exactly is this? Doesnt look like an install kit at all. Why would I need it?
      Thank you for your question and I can surely answer that.

      Anytime you do a clutch job it is wise to inspect and replace as needed the various seals in the area you are working in. Reason being, is that a worn seal is easy to replace when the trans is out. If you don't replace the seal, you may experience a failure sometime after, in which case you will have the added expense of the labor to remove the trans.
      For piece of mind and cheap insurance, people replace these items at this time.

      The item on the left is the rear main seal, late model VWs are using a teflon sean which is now integrated into the aluminum housing. Earlier VWs had a similar aluminum housing, but the seal was the replaceable affordable part. VW has since made obsolete the older style and forcing customers to pay for the late model higher priced part.
      We can offer our customers the option of one piece teflon, or the 3 piece older style (spring seal).

      The 3 piece uses a fiber gasket, to mate to the block, the seal is replaceable.
      In your Bentley manual, you'll read about the different seals and why VW chose them.
      Keep in mind that a teflon seal needs time to set-up after installation, whereas the older spring seal does not. The choice is your and that is why we offer both.

      Now the part on the right is the input shaft seal on the trans.
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      11-27-2012 10:16 AM #153
      Quote Originally Posted by FourSeasonTuning.com View Post
      Thank you for your question and I can surely answer that.

      Anytime you do a clutch job it is wise to inspect and replace as needed the various seals in the area you are working in. Reason being, is that a worn seal is easy to replace when the trans is out. If you don't replace the seal, you may experience a failure sometime after, in which case you will have the added expense of the labor to remove the trans.
      For piece of mind and cheap insurance, people replace these items at this time.

      The item on the left is the rear main seal, late model VWs are using a teflon sean which is now integrated into the aluminum housing. Earlier VWs had a similar aluminum housing, but the seal was the replaceable affordable part. VW has since made obsolete the older style and forcing customers to pay for the late model higher priced part.
      We can offer our customers the option of one piece teflon, or the 3 piece older style (spring seal).

      The 3 piece uses a fiber gasket, to mate to the block, the seal is replaceable.
      In your Bentley manual, you'll read about the different seals and why VW chose them.
      Keep in mind that a teflon seal needs time to set-up after installation, whereas the older spring seal does not. The choice is your and that is why we offer both.

      Now the part on the right is the input shaft seal on the trans.
      Exactly what I thought, but couldnt be sure. Thanks for the reply. Will be purchasing a clutch kit soon
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      01-04-2013 03:16 PM #154
      Just a heads up, took my flywheel to the machinist with my rotating assembly to be balanced. One of the dowel pins fell out somewhere. My machinist made a new one but I am not sure if it was a manufacturing defect or if someone banged it around a bit.

      Good product, only took 1.1 grams to balance!

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      01-04-2013 04:45 PM #155
      Dowels pins on the 02M billet flywheel are not pressed in, they slide in and can be removed by pulling with your fingers. Some may fit tighter due to the machining oil in the flywheel hole or due to a dowel that came from a different batch. All dowels are machined to the same tolerances, but they all get put into the same bin box.
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      04-01-2013 04:20 PM #156
      ordered a stage 2 and flywheel.

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      06-17-2013 09:02 AM #157
      What is everyone doing to reduce gear noise and chatter?

      My engine and clutch are finally broken in, spirited driving through country roads is loud but only off the throttle on deceleration. I get chatter at low speeds.

      My setup is a 2.0lt stroker, fully balanced with a fluidampre crank pulley. I am about to drop the trans out and fix a leaking rear main, and put in redline gear oil.

      Is the only way to get rid of gear noise is to go back to a DMF flywheel?

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      04-10-2014 07:34 PM #158
      You can have your transmission shimmed by a transmission tech that has knowledge of the 02M main shaft issues.
      Early models have a main shaft bearing that does not have a bearing race notch. This lack of a notch allows the bearing race to spin in the case, or slide in and out (end play).
      The revised 02Q has a stronger case (gear side) and it has a taller bearing with a notch, but the bearing internals still have a plastic cage with 6 ball bearings.
      The plastic will eventually wear and all 02M and 02Q trans will have a failure at this bearing at some point during its life.
      The advantage of the 02Q bearing is the notch, this prevents the race from spinning and also acts as a stop to prevent in and out movement.

      The only way to fit this 02Q bearing into an 02M trans is the replace the transmission gear side case ($750 +).
      So that is not an option for most people, it would be easiest to drill some holes in the 02M case and tap them for set screws at noted by another forum member.
      I want to say it could be found in the technical forum.

      Other than that, main shaft noise won't go away on its own. Shimming the bearing, or taking the steps to modify the case are needed.
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      05-09-2014 01:07 AM #159
      Great products! Just installed my 16lb flywheel along with a Sachs sprung hub disk last month and couldn't be happier Great customer service and fast shipping! You guys rock!
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      05-13-2014 08:57 PM #160
      Quote Originally Posted by FourSeasonTuning.com View Post
      You can have your transmission shimmed by a transmission tech that has knowledge of the 02M main shaft issues.
      Early models have a main shaft bearing that does not have a bearing race notch. This lack of a notch allows the bearing race to spin in the case, or slide in and out (end play).
      The revised 02Q has a stronger case (gear side) and it has a taller bearing with a notch, but the bearing internals still have a plastic cage with 6 ball bearings.
      The plastic will eventually wear and all 02M and 02Q trans will have a failure at this bearing at some point during its life.
      The advantage of the 02Q bearing is the notch, this prevents the race from spinning and also acts as a stop to prevent in and out movement.

      The only way to fit this 02Q bearing into an 02M trans is the replace the transmission gear side case ($750 +).
      So that is not an option for most people, it would be easiest to drill some holes in the 02M case and tap them for set screws at noted by another forum member.
      I want to say it could be found in the technical forum.

      Other than that, main shaft noise won't go away on its own. Shimming the bearing, or taking the steps to modify the case are needed.
      Has it been determined whether or not the early o2m (fml code) cases can be shimmed? I just put my case back together today after installing steel shift forks when I can across the thread discussing main shaft axial play and the whining noises on deceleration. I have not noticed any strange noises coming from the trans on decel (trans has 130k). Do the tapered roller bearings found in the early cases fall victim to the same symptoms?
      Last edited by theguy831; 05-13-2014 at 09:32 PM.

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      07-22-2014 01:25 PM #161

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      09-08-2014 12:08 PM #162
      up

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      09-10-2014 01:16 PM #163
      bump

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      09-10-2014 01:27 PM #164
      bump

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      12-20-2014 03:38 PM #165
      I have a 05 GLI and I recently got Unitronic Stage 2 along with a full TBE, TIP, and intake. I've noticed some slipping here and there and figured it would be a good idea to just upgrade the clutch too. I've been searching around for the proper clutch upgrade to handle the new torque on vortex. From what I have gained, all I simply need to do is look for kits that can handle my new torque specs? I'm sitting at between 275-295 pounds torque based off of Unitronic's quotes. I want to maintain stock feel and have no plans of upgrading to a larger turbo except maybe KO4.

      For due diligence, I found this South Bend Clutch on ECS that allows the use of my stock Dual Mass Flywheel: http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...tch/ES2725091/

      FIRST QUESTION: Is it recommended to upgrade the flywheel too? Can I simply buy a kit and keep my stock flywheel and be fine with my power levels? If so, do you have anything in comparison to ECS's kit for around the same price (Preferably Sach's)?

      If not, I'm looking at Sach's Stage 1+ Kit w/ 20 pound flywheel (Rated at 320 lbs. torque): http://www.fourseasontuning.com/prod...214.FST240SB20

      SECOND QUESTION: Will I notice a difference between at 20 pound flywheel and a 16.5 pound flywheel? Which is better in your opinion?
      Last edited by Kaws; 12-20-2014 at 04:38 PM.

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      12-22-2014 07:25 PM #166
      Soooo no opinion on my previous post? I guess you all don't want the sale.

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      12-23-2014 05:14 PM #167
      Sorry I missed this.

      First off the only way to reuse a stock dual mass flywheel is to first measure the play.
      There is a video on Youtube from LUK that shows how.
      If the results of the test indicate the flywheel is bad, replace it.

      I personally would never reuse a dual mass with a new clutch.
      You can not machine a dual mass flywheel, it is a disposable item.
      The dual mass is a power limiting device when compared to a single mass flywheel.
      The limitations are the internal design of moving parts and springs, plus the plastic used to minimize noise.
      It isn't ideal for track or racing use, as it can overheat and melt the plastic.
      We've seen overheated dual mass flywheels fail and as such the flywheel bolt holes are no longer accessible.
      You have to destroy the metal around the holes to remove the bolts.

      Now going to a single mass flywheel, YOU WILL GET NOISE.
      I hope in your research you've read some of my posts on the topic.
      If not, you can search our 02M, 02Q ads for the reply.
      Alternately you can search the web for feedback from other users personal experience.

      The noise differs from vehicle to vehicle, this is due to mileage, normal wear, build date.
      Early models had better internals (5 spd 02M), 6 spd early models have bearings for the forks, later ones use cheap bushing as a bearing (rolled metal sleeve).
      All 02M have a major defect in the main shaft bearing, 02Q trans redesigned it with a larger bearing and gear side case.
      This is a pricey repair for early 02M, but you can buy time with a simple main haft bearing fix found on this site (search).
      A few set screws is the common fix for non worn main shafts. If the main shaft has lots of play, repair would require a tear down of your transmission.
      You would inspect the gear side of the case for an oval hole where the bearing sat. This isn't repairable and a new gear side case is needed with a new bearing.
      If the bearing is tight as in the race hasn't spun, then you would just shim the main shaft.

      If you are not familiar with the 02M/02Q transmission internally, you can search for the self-study programme 205 6-speed manual.

      Its a PDF file and it explains the details of the internals.

      The Stage 1 + kit is ideal for your current power levels, but not for a K04.
      You would need a Stage 2 kit, and depending on your driving type (daily, track, drag) we would have to select a disc that matches your requirements.
      Keep in mind organic discs will give you the longest life, but won't take abuse of racing.
      If you drive conservatively by not launching at each stop light, or clutch drops, it will hold the torque and you'll get many years out of it.
      None of the exotic friction materials will last very long, typically 8-15K, longer if granny shifting.
      These are not meant for daily use because some have abrupt engagement, sprung hubs are more tolerable.

      You will notice a difference when switching to a single mass as its lighter, and the noise is obvious too.
      Going from a 20 to a 16.5 will not be very obvious because your clutch line has an inline dampener to absorb vibrations caused by the slave cylinder.

      Please feel free to contact James at the shop to discuss your clutch options.
      We have many more kits not listed and we can piece a kit together to meet your needs.
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      03-26-2015 02:09 PM #168
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    29. 03-27-2015 02:07 AM #169
      First thing...you know your ****, learning lots from your posts and answers

      So I'm about to replace a 02m trans in my 337 everything is standard

      Original clutch and still have the dual mass flywheel, my budget isn't huge but looking to maybe up grade

      What is my best option at the 500-600 cad dollar range ( I'm in Canada so need to factor in shipping and taxes b duties I guess)
      Buy and oem clutch and stick with the dualmass or upgrade to a single mass,which be I have read you get some sort of noise what kind of noise? What happens to the pedal feel and what are the actual benefits of the upgrade

      Many thanks Aaron

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      03-27-2015 02:34 PM #170
      Your budget is tight, not enough for a complete kit with flywheel.
      You'll have to double your budget to get a complete bolt on kit, be it single mass or dual mass.

      Pedal feel won't change if you choose a stock clutch, it will be the same pressure plate and disc you currently have.
      If your budget increases and allows for a performance clutch kit, the pedal feel will change due to the higher clamp load of a modified pressure plate and disc.

      If you decide on a single mass kit, the noise varies but mostly sounds like a diesel vehicle or clatter/ gear lash. Some say it sounds like marbles in a can, others are quite as if nothing changed.
      The noise will be different even between two similar vehicles due to mileage, wear, maintenance. If you don't want noise and its a daily driver, stay with a dual mass.
      If you plan to track your vehicle or like to drive it hard or plan on future power gains, then consider a single mass flywheel kit (you'll have to live with the noise or have the trans main shaft shimmed, depending on production date it may require trans diss-assembly).

      Please look up the Self Study guide I mentioned in a previous post, you can easily find it on the web.

      If you would like to discuss your options with James, feel free to contact him via our websites contact link under Customer Service (bottom of the home page).
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      05-22-2015 02:57 PM #171
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