Here is my somewhat of an attempt to post some relevant information:
Official 2.0 TSI Motor Guide FROM VW
(Thanks for hosting the file Arin!)
Broken link - http://www.arinahnell.com/other/vw/tech/20tsi.pdf
New Link (file is legit) http://www.2shared.com/complete/TTTn...803_20tsi.html
2009 Carefree Maintenance Program Information:
URL Link to PDF Explanation: http://www.vw.com/downloads/zi...e.zip
THE MKV GOLF R HAS THE FSI MOTOR
The engine cover from Golf R does in fact say "TSI" but it is using the same motor out of the ED30 MKV, which has slightly stronger rods and a k04 turbo.
THE MKV GOLF R HAS THE FSI MOTOR
Link to TSI related TSB:
(Thanks again Arin!)
EASY WAY TO TELL IF YOUR CAR IS CCTA OR CBFA
Pop open your hood and inspect your factory airbox. If the airbox has a 2nd hose coming out of the front of the airbox then your car has the CBFA version of the airbox.
The CBFA version also has a 3rd sensor (a 2nd o2 sensor) on the DP that is used for emissions purposes.
Different revisions of the TSI motor:
The MKV and MKVI Share the SAME TSI motor:
Quote, originally posted by John Y » That's not a rumor, the engine in the 2010 GTI in the US is the same TSI motor that has been under the hood of US GTIs since mid-2008 model year.
Quote, originally posted by Arin@APR »
US MK5/MK6 2.0 TSI Engine
CCT and CBF denote the engine's mechanical structure. IE, secondary injection (CBF) vs non secondary injection (CCT). A, the 4th letter, denotes the power output for the calibration, ie both rated in the us for 207ft-lb/200hp.
ROW MK6 and A3 2.0 TSI Engines
CCZA - A3
CCZB - MK6CCZ denotes the european mechanical structure. A denotes the 200HP calibration. B denotes the 210HP calibration.
Q: How strong are the rods in the TSI motor?
A: For the FSI motor the industry standard for how strong the rods are considered to be 350 ft/lbs of torque. Nobody has yet puplicly reported bending any rods in the TSI motor, but the TSI rods are in fact stronger.
Im not saying the rods can or cannot withstand any amount of power, just meerly sharing pix of the rods with the community (Thanks to Arin@APR):
Nobody has reported any bent rods yet as the TSI motor has only been around for about 3 years now and Turbo upgrades are just now picking up steam. Only time will tell the strength of the new rods
Link to discussion over the strength of the stock TSI Fueling as well as showing pictures comparing the FSI rods to the TSI rods:
Injectors for the TSI:
Potential TSI Issues:
A few of the TSI cars are reporting failing Water Pumps (2010 GTIs and Audis from the sound of it):
There have also been a few reports of failing HPFPs:
Some TSI cars (primarily MKVIs) are experiencing issues with the Timing Chain Tensioner, here is a DIY guide in order how to replace it (credit goes to Eric AKA "erball" and "eurocars":
Oil Change in a TSI Motor:
Quote, originally posted by VeeRrrSick »
The good news is that you don't need to touch these covers on a TSI for an oil change. I did my first one at the first 1,000 mile mark just to train myself (and to see if there was any metallic content).
The drain plug is accessible (points toward the rear), and the process is very painless.
1. Put the warm car up on ramps or jack stands
2. Remove the drain plug (19mm socket)
3. Remove the oil cap to speed draining
4. Once the flow slows significantly, loosen your oil filter slowly until you hear the flow increase again. Let it sit partly unscrewed and drain. (There's a breech pin that'll open if you haven't read about that--it's great.)
5. When the flow slows down significantly, unscrew the filter the remainder of the way by hand and pick the filter straight up. There shouldn't be any mess.
6. Lube and install the new filter.
7. Replace drain plug (no new crush washer is necessary from what I've read... the washer's permanent on the drain plug).
8. Fill 'er up. 5 qts. Start with 4.5, run it to get oil into the filter, and check. Add as needed.Enjoy the relatively painless process! I had a blast... and plan to do changes between dealer maintenance just for the peace of mind... and the relaxation.
Modified by VeeRrrSick at 6:18 AM 5-21-2009
If you want to mount up a DP that is made for the FSI/ TSI CCTA engine you will have to modify the flange to fit for the CBFA (cut out the 2 parts of the flange that are colored with the charpie):
MORE Info on the difference between the FSI & TSI (CCTA and CBFA) from 42D Design:
Taken from the 42D Design webpage:
Yes. Our downpipe has been designed to fit both FSI and TSI motors. The downpipe flange has been machined to fit both turbochargers. Some TSI motors (CBFA) have 3 oxygen sensors instead of 2. To accommodate this configuration an extra oxygen sensor bung has been added.
FSI and early TSI motors are equipped with two oxygen sensors. The first sensor is located before the first catalytic converter directly after the downpipe flange. The second is located after the second catalytic converter.
CFBA and later TSI motors are equipped with three oxygen sensors. The first sensor is located on the turbo. The second is located before the second catalytic converter. The third is located after the second catalytic converter.
If installing on a FSI or early TSI motor, plug the second oxygen sensor bung on our downpipe.
If installing on a CFBA or later TSI motor, plug the first hole on our downpipe.
The extra bung can be used for a wideband gauge and sensor at any time.
Intake Manifold Removal/Cleaning valves:
Here is a DIY link on how to remove the TSI Intake Manifold:
DIY Guide for installing a K04 on a TSI:
I am in no way going to update this thread with every single mod that is out on the market but I will pop in here (hopefully) from time to time and post up some available parts:
AWE (CCTA AND CBFA)
42D - Modular (CCTA AND CBFA)
A&L (CCTA AND CBFA)
USP (CCTA AND CBFA)
Eurojet (CCTA AND CBFA)
APR (CCTA AND CBFA)
Ultimate Racing (CCTA and CBFA)
EuroCustoms (CCTA and CBFA)
Ultimate Racing (CCTA and CBFA)
ALL of the available MKV FSI catback exhausts will properly mount up to the MKV TSI engine.
The MKV FSI catback will obviously NOT mount up to the MKVI TSI
BSH Vent to Atmosphere Race can
BSH Recirculation Catch Can
The Forge Catchcan is more of a PCV upgrade than just a catch can.
It reroutes all of the PCV gases through one line:
Using this blockoff plate:
034 and IE also carry a PCV replacement plate much like the Forge 'Africa' plate.
All of the available FSI intercoolers will properly mount up to the TSI engine
S3 IC tested:
Quote, originally posted by ryan mills » ...The stock hoses work just fine too. You just have to cut the metal ends off, and clamp them down with 2 3/4" hose clamps. I might be imagining things, but my butt dyno notices a pretty large improvement in my 30-110mph runs.
The price list is:
9- 6mmX1.0X16mm bolts (HomeDepot) $3.30
2-#36 2 3/4" ideal hose clamps (home Depot, plumbing section) $2.00
About 6 beers (kroger) $8S3 intercooler (worldimpex.com) $320 +$18 shipping
S3 install thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...61165
AWE now sells a quality set of hoses so you don't have to cut your stock hoses
The FSI Intakes will NOT fit the TSI without modification.
BSH (Stage 1 is the ram air scoop, Stage 2 is the long tube that connects to turbo inlet)
NOTE: The passenger side mount has a slightly different design for the upper brackets in which you bolt your Windshield Washer fluid neck & Noisepipe to. The BSH Mounts have a NEW bracket to fix this, so double check before you order
BSH (new TSI revision)
Torque Mount Insert:
NOTE: the 2008.5 TSI mount is the same as the FSI while the 2009 TSI has a different shaped insert than the FSI
BSH Dogbone will fit the 2008.5 TSI
VF Dogbone will fit the 2008.5 TSI
Neuspeed has a 2009 TSI Insert
Black Forest Industries (BFI) has torque arm insert (98a durometer) for 2009 TSI cars
BSH has a TSI insert
NOTE: you CANNOT tap into the vacuum source like the FSI motor you MUST purhchase one of the following pieces to properly tap into a vacuum source for a boost gauge