Transmission Removal Clutch Replacement diy Quick Version

[xbluewaterx]

Clutch Replacement
First off I wanted to make this to show everyone that you don't need a huge shop with a lift to do this. Also as some others have mentioned before you do not need to drop the subframe whatsoever. People always ask me if it can be done in their garage and it can. I tried to take pics of every step and be thorough in my descriptions. This should take you around 3 hours if it is your first time. If you are an experienced mechanic it should only take around 1.5 hours. I took me 3 but I was taking pics and writing this diy <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> I do not take any responsibility for you breaking anything. If anyone with lots of experience feels that I have left anything out please let me know. PM me if you have any questions and enjoy! Also special thanks to my wife Nina for taking the pics.

-Gabe-
Bluewater Performance

1. Secure front car on jack stands. Make sure the car is raised enough that you will be able to drop the transmission out.
2. Remove air intake or factory air box I will not go into to much detail because if you can’t remove this then you probably should not be replacing the clutch.
3. Remove battery and battery tray with 10mm socket to give yourself enough room. There is 4 10mm Bolts holding the tray in.

4. Remove shifter, shift cable and shift mounting bracket using a 13 mm socket zip tie all shift components together out of the way When removing the main body of the shifter be sure to pull equally at both sides. Do not pull one side and then the other back and forth. Shaft is shown in Blue circle

5. Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the clip that holds shift cable mechanism on. Be sure to not lose the two plastic bushings. I placed the bushings back onto the shaft and then put the clip back on as to not lose anything. As a side note. I replace every bolt or nut that I can as to not lose them. Also it will tend to not have a pile of bolts just laying around on a box.

6. Remove Hard Line From Engine/Transmission Mount

7. Remove ground strap from connecting bolt at top of engine/transmission

8. Disconnect connector for back up lights and other connectors on top of the starter

9. remove 13mm nut from cable bracket then remove cable bracket from starter

10. Remove upper starter securing bolt located in the same place as the cable mounting bracket was

11. Unclip and remove hose to slave cylinder. To unclip pull the metal retaining clip up and just pull back on the line.

12. Use electrical tape to plug off hose removed from slave cylinder. Make sure you don’t touch the clutch pedal otherwise fluid will come out.

13. Remove connector on back of transmission. The wires are covered with a heat shield wrap.

14. Remove both front wheels

15. Underneath the car, remove the lower dog-bone mount. Replace stretch bolts

16. Disconnect lower ball joints( three 16mm nuts)

17. Remove the 6 axle bolts on each side and pull axles out of the way. To do this you will need a 12 point 12mm socket. I zip tied mine up out of the way.

18. Remove three 13mm bolts from shield on passenger side around axle Sorry No Pics.

19. Remove four 16mm bolts connecting transfer case to transmission Be patient. These can take some time and be a pain but they all are accessible

20. Remove 2 16mm bolts holding the mounting bracket from the transfer case to the engine.

21. Remove 6mm Allen Bolt from inside the passenger side drive shaft. This requires a long extension and a 6mm allen socket. Regular allen wrenches will not work. This is a hard one to find.

22. You should now be able to easily pry the transfer case away from the transmission.

23. Remove the lower starter mounting bolt and remove starter

24. Remove All but one of the engine to transmission bolts. I usually prefer to leave one of the easy to access bottom bolts on. There are a couple of hidden ones. One is facing the passenger side and is right next to the top right transfer case to transmission bolt if you are facing the drivers side standing on the passenger side.

Passenger side near transfer case bolt

25. Stabilize the motor and transmission with separate jacks that way you can lower the motor and tranny separately.

26. Remove the drivers side fender liner and splash shield. The fender liner does not have to be fully removed. I usually just unbolt the front half and move it out of the way.

27. Remove the driver side engine mount. This will require removing the 3 bolts that attach to the transmission along with the 2 stretch bolts on the mount itself. Then remove the mount and set it to the side.

28. Begin to lower the engine and transmission together but make sure that the motor is not lowered to where it could potentially fall out of the passenger side mount. Make sure it is lowered enough that it can clear the front stub/subframe

29. Now comes the awkward and frustrating part. Remove the last engine to trans bolt and start to pry out. Work it slowly away from the engine and transfer case. Eventually it will pull out far enough to where it looks like it is going to hit the lower subframe. When it gets to this point start jacking up or push up on the rear of the transmission so it clears the subframe and it should simply drop out.

30. Now go have a beer

31. Next remove the pressure plate bolts. These are 12 point bolts. They require a 11/32 12 point socket.

32. Remove all flywheel bolts. These bolts are removed using the same socket as you used to remove the axle bolts.

33. Replace all stretch bolts including the engine mount bolts and the dog mount bolts. Also replace the pressure plate bolts and flywheel bolts.

34. Replacement Part #s
a. Socket Head bolt with inner multipoint head/Flywheel Bolt N 909 294 01 x10
b. 12 point head pressure plate bolt +N 903 207 01 x6
c. Rear Main Oil Seal b 021 103 051 c
d. Clutch Release Bearing 02M141671B
e. Clutch Master Cylinder N/A
f. Clutch Plate and Pressure Plate b o22 141 015 t(or)tx
g. Stretch bolts for dogbone mount and drivers side engine
mount (Drivers Side Engine Mount N 102 096 03 x2)
(Dogbone Mount n 102 683 02 X2 N 102 466 04 X1 N 905 970 02 x1)
h. Replace seals/o rings between transmission and transfer case 02M 409 203 & N 904 837 01 & N 028 222 2

Torque Specs

Engine to Transmission and Transmission to Transfer case
1. M12 Bolts - 80NM
2. M10 Bolts 45NM

Transmission Mount to Transmission
1: 50NM + 90degree turn

Transmission Mount to Chassis
1. 100NM

Pressure Plate to Dual Mass Flywheel
1. 22NM

Modified by xbluewaterx at 10:30 AM 7-29-2009

[Da Kine]

Thank you

[Spoolin1X]

WOW!

[Daemon42]

Great job! Adding to the FAQ/DIY thread.

ian

[robocopywriter]

Cool!!!

[dave13s4]

good stuff man though if i may add you should also replace the o-rings between the transfer case and the trans.

[xbluewaterx]

Thanks I did replace those but forgot them in the parts list. It is hard to remember everything typing it all out at once
They are now added.


Modified by xbluewaterx at 9:03 PM 9-25-2008

[scharged]

a god among Rmen

[schmuck]

many many thanks, this will come in very handy. best informative post on here in a while

[VTEC976]

This isn't as daunting as one would think. Following these steps makes it easier than I initially thought it would be. If you take your time and follow the directions (getting a second set of hands helps with pulling the tranny and makes sure you don't have your beer alone ) it is just as easy as the pictures make it look.

Gabe

[tjm0852]

Good stuff right there

[1-UP]

this is great, thanks! although i think i would just pay someone to replace/install my clutch cuz it would probably take me all day to do this.

plus i can't afford to get all scarred up and caloused. i'm a hand model.

[xbluewaterx]

Quote, originally posted by 1-UP »

this is great, thanks! although i think i would just pay someone to replace/install my clutch cuz it would probably take me all day to do this. plus i can't afford to get all scarred up and caloused. i'm a hand model.

Serious?

[MatadoR32]

Quote, originally posted by 1-UP »

this is great, thanks! although i think i would just pay someone to replace/install my clutch cuz it would probably take me all day to do this. plus i can't afford to get all scarred up and caloused. i'm a hand model.

Like... really? Wow!

Awesome write up! Can't wait to see the pictures, I'm at work and I can't see sh*t.

[Bolan Vdub]

BRAVOOOOOOO!

[BLU R32]

Quote, originally posted by xbluewaterx »

...If anyone with lots of experience feels that I have left anything ut please let me know...

I have little or no experience but you left out an "O" but it was left out of "OUT" so maybe that was on purpose.

Epic post! Thanks so much and I'm sure this will help many who are at the point of clutch replacement now and in the coming years.

Awesome contribution to the .:R Forum

many=

[1of5k]

Great DIY... I have 74k and eventually will need a clutch and nobody touches my baby but me

[fleabag]

Give that man a prize!

[xbluewaterx]

I am the same way. Nobody but me ever touches any of my cars!

[peace]

Awesome DIY!!! 1000x better than a Bentley manual.
Also props to Nina on the pictures.

Printing to PDF next for safe keeping.

[beachball6]

Good write up looks just like any other VW transmission R/R but more of a PIA.
Shawn

[arethirdytwo]

Yes, doing this with no tranny lift makes you hate life. I got it out fast, finished the work fast, however getting it back in... Man I was pissed.

[climbingcue]

Nice work, I am going to have to drop a trans on an R32 sooner or later so this post will be a big help

[xbluewaterx]

Well I got the transmission bolted back up again tonight. Thanks to scharged for the helping hand. I can't wait to test out the new Streetwerke clutch.

[scharged]

woot for apple pie and vanilla bean ice cream

[VTEC976]

This is the kind of helpful information that you can expect in the future. Also, expect our website up in the near future!

Thanks for the positive comments!!!

Gabe
G&G Motorsports



Modified by VTEC976 at 6:53 PM 9-29-2008

[R32R1]

somebody get this guy a 12 pack for this write up!!

[G2VR6Man]

Awesome write-up!

[xbluewaterx]

Bump for someone asking about this.

[robocopywriter]

For whoever was asking its worth remembering that this is now in the FAQ DIY thread right there on the first post.

[Navydub]

Fantastic write up

[trex2400]

Great write-up dude!

When I read this the first time, somehow I missed the part that said the woman in the picture was your wife. I thought she was you and posted this herself. I thought the other posters were referring to you as a man because they were stupid. I was actually thinking of contacting her to marry her so she'd do my clutch replacement until I went to her (your) myspace link and saw you were a man and reread the top of the post and found out she was your wife! Already taken, and not as mechanically inclined as I thought anyway! But there has to be some woman out there that likes this kind of heavy duty mechanical work like us men do. I need to find her before my ECS clutch arrives Wednesday, or bite the bullet and do it myself as sort of planned.

[xbluewaterx]

My wife does like to help out with mechanical work. Well at least sometimes. There are some good ones out there! Just few and far between. Good luck with the job.
-Gabe-

[2u4uR32]

Quote, originally posted by xbluewaterx »

21. Remove 6mm Allen Bolt from inside the passenger side drive shaft. This requires a long extension and a 6mm allen socket. Regular allen wrenches will not work. This is a hard one to find.

Great write up, wish you would have done this a couple months ago!!
The above bolt was a huge problem when we pulled my transmission, thank god Qbn called and told us about this one...

[VpfinnersW]

this is seriously an awesome write up. I know it must have been a pain in the ass to take pics (well, your wife took them, but still a nuisance I'm sure), write out the DIY steps, remember all the parts replaced, etc on top of just doing the car work alone, so thank you for your knowledge and patience.