Eurovan Serpentine Belt Removal Tool

[killerdub]

1. Insert tool between tensioner pulley and arm

2. Grip it

3. Release tension

About to change your serpentine belt on your 2.5 liter VW Eurovan? Save yourself lots of time and headache with this belt removal tool. The tensioner is in between the frame rail and engine making it almost impossible to get to and release tension. With this tool all it takes is three simple steps shown above. No need to even jack your van up, can be done with all four wheels on the ground. Will only take about 10-20 minutes to change your serpentine belt with this tool. This is only for the inline five cylinder Eurovan engines, will not work on VR6 or Diesel Eurovan engines. Click on the Ebay link in my signature below if you would like to purchase or IM me, call me with any questions. 727-452-4523 Thanks, Mark.

Modified by killerdub at 10:44 AM 1-21-2009

[killerdub]

[killerdub]

[cinn]

Thanks

[killerdub]

[HapG]

I have always just used a really big crescent wrench, opened just wide enough to fit the pulley's arm in. Lay on my back, looking straight up at the pulley, there's plenty of room and the big wrench gives plenty of leverage to release tension with one hand, so I can use the other to slip the belt on/off one of the other pulleys (the PS pump is easiest for me)

[killerdub]

[jake henes]

i use the crescent wrench method too

[killerdub]

[vanwesty]

I'm resurrecting this thread from the dead. My belt is starting to squeal and I need to change it. I read somewhere that along with needing the special tool that you need to jack up the engine and remove a mount or bolt and also another mount to actually get the old belt off and the new one on. Is this the case or? ( with the tool, or big wrench) will the belt slide on and off? Trying to find a definitive how to on this.

I have a 93 CV with the 2.5 gas and auto trans and AC

Thanks

[jets]

I will start by saying that I don't have your engine but still the 5 cyl. What you have read/heard about unbolting engine mount etc. only applies to removal of tensioner assy.

[gti_matt]

My father-in-law and I did the crescent wrench thing on my 2.5 AAF manual trans and didn't have to mess with any engine mounts.

[vanwesty]

ok thanks everyone. I think you're correct I must have been reading about replacing the tensioner as well. So this is a pretty straight forward job then? Crescent wrench method works fine then?

Just curious, how do I know if I have the AAF or the other spec motor?

[gti_matt]

ok thanks everyone. I think you're correct I must have been reading about replacing the tensioner as well. So this is a pretty straight forward job then? Crescent wrench method works fine then?

Just curious, how do I know if I have the AAF or the other spec motor?

If you have a '93 (or also '92 Canada) gas 5-cyl, it's AAF. You can confirm by looking on the intake manifold...one of the runners has the letters 'AAF' stamped on it.

If you have a '95 it's ACU for sure.

If you have a '94 (Canada) the AAF to ACU switch I believe was a mid-year switch (1/94 production I suspect) so the earliest 1994 models are probably AAF.

[vanwesty]

Thank you! Mine is definitely AAF then.

[gti_matt]

My father-in-law and I did the crescent wrench thing on my 2.5 AAF manual trans and didn't have to mess with any engine mounts.

Now that I did this, the wrench trick works fine. Some notes/thoughts on installation...

1. We got a little more/better working room by removing the serpentine idler from above the crank for the moment first. In the pic at the top of the page it's one of the two identical rollers with the black cap. It's the one that is further away...pry off the cap and remove the 13mm bolt (there is a spacer collar on the bolt too so don't lose that when you remove it).

2. You can muscle the tensioner such that your wrench can rest behind and on the vibration damper. Have a helper hold a finger on it though so it doesn't slide out from behind it on you (it might) and make the tensioner snap back. This doesn't take much muscle to keep it from popping out so your helper can hold it for a few minutes while you work.

3. While helper holds that in place, you move to the front of the car down in front of the bumper. Look up and back towards the firewall so you're line of sight is inline with all the pulleys and looking at the tensioner way back up there. Take your new belt (and if it's new and has a "natural fold" in it from the packaging, even better), feed it up to the tensioner first. Feed it between the tensioner and the block and then put it on the tensioner from behind and if the natural bend/fold in the belt is up there, it'll actually help you get it around the tensioner and it'll stay there better with the natural fold there.

4. Put the idler back. If you want to give your helper a rest while doing this, as long as the belt is looped correctly around the tensioner you can release that while you do this.

5. If you gave your helper a rest while you put the idler back, do the wrench trick again on the tensioner and have helper hold the wrench behind the vibration damper again. You feed the belt around everything in the proper order/shape/flow/sequence.

6. Release the tensioner, you're good to go.