Nice...I'm building an 82 vert too. Car looks in great shape!
'78 MGB for sale...contact me for details
Cinch it up. Get the measurements from a Bentley and some ratcheting tiedown straps. Unless you are planning on autocrossing or tracking the car it will be fine. My Caddy was the same way when I got her. Towers were fine and it allighns perfectly. I just pulled the bent horn back about 3/4 inch to fix the 1/4 inch gap at the hood to fender. I'm guessing there are no creases in the crumple zones so you'll be just fine.
Will that really work? I thought about it - but it seemed to me I would have just as good of a chance of bending the other side as I would of fixing the bad side. The alignment is ok - I took care of that at work and wasn't that far off. Maybe I'm thinking about this wrong - exactly how did you manage to bend yours back? What did you use as an anchor for the ratchet straps? I've got the Bently already so that's not a problem. Thanks!
If funds permit it, take it to a shop and put it on a frame straightener. I have a CRX that would have been totaled but the frame machine did wonders - made it like new [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
What in the world is going on now? I went to move my car before the big ice storm, turned the key and lost all power to the car. Lights, radio, everthing. Came back later it was all off, tried the overhead light and suddenly everything came back on. I'm fairly sure the grounds are ok except the valve cover to firewall one. This happened once before, but I attributed it to a dead battery. Any ideas? I was thinking ignition switch first since both times it's been fine untill I turned the key, but why would that kill everything? Battery is grounded to the trans.
Ahhh - this sucks. Have been charging the battery all day, everything was working. Tried starting the car later, it started and died due to the cold. A few cranks later lost all power everywhere again. It's too cold to be tracking stuff down right now but I'm stumped. This should be a simple ground issue, but I'm almost 100% sure it's not that. I hate winter!
Ideas anyone? My car's in my yard buried under snow and ice right now so it's kind of up to bench diagnostics right now. Walking to work sucks! On a side note if you ever decide to get summer tires on your second car - don't do it! My bus is stuck where it is now too because of just that reason.
The snow and ice is finally going away, and I can get the hood open again - Yay! Still now power to the car - time to bring home some tools and find out what's going on. I really hate that my one set of tools is tied up at work all the time, but what can you do? I finally found an engine, and a JH along with a close ratio box out of an 84 Scirocco will be coming home sometime soon! Hopefully I'll be able to snag the fuel dizzy, wiring, TB etc. I've got a bently to back me up - but does anyone know just how many wiring differences I'll be up against? I've got a feeling I'd be better off getting everything I can from the donor car, instead of trying to use the 1.7 setup. I believe the 1.8 has a bigger air plate in the fuel dizzy also, doesn't it? I've also got a new heater core and blower motor, now that winter is on it's way out. I also recently picked up an Audi 5000 throttle body, but I have one problem. There's no way that I can see to adjust the idle on it - I'm sure someone out there who's running one can help me out. Cheers!
The roads and the scenery down here are the best part!
Finally got my electrical gremlins sorted out - there was a bad crimp on the wire feeding the fuse box. Damn those P.O.'s!
As soon as I find my camera I'll get a pic up, but the linkage is totally different (don't care) and the one in the pic appears to have an idle adjuster sticking out of the front in that pic, while the one I have just has a vacuum fitting there. The two screws next to the idle adjustment also don't exist on this on. I'll find a way to make it work, I'm just looking for ideas. I have to swap motors way before this part gets put on anyways.
Finally started the process! Got all the wiring, vacuum and coolant lines disconnected and marked. All that left is the CV shafts, exhaust, and mounts and I'll be ready to pull it! Those damn exhaust bolts are where I'm stuck right now. I've got the dual downpipe on my old 1.7 and I'm trying desperatly not to break a stud or do something otherwise destructive. So far PB and MAPP gas have both failed me. I'm going to pick up a can of that freeze stuff from the Cornwell truck today and see how that works.
There are a couple things that have me confused right now though. The first would be what the simplest way to run the cooling system would be. I just need to sit down and look at the differences between the two system. I think it's just mostly the changed position of the upper coolant neck that's throwing me off.
The second is exactly what this one sensor I found is. It was previously (I think) in the coolant lines that loop out of the back of the block, it was just hanging there by it's wires not in any line at all. Where can I get one of these / what exactly does it do?
Pics to come!
Ok - got the pics up. Here's where I'm finally at now that the weather is finally better. Oh yeah - my neighbors love me. I don't think I've mentioned this before, I've been wrenching for years now but I've never had the space or the tools to do a swap myself before. This is my first one, fun fun!
Finally getting somewhere, I think this will probably end up being the hardest part of it all.
This is the part in question:
Which I believe originally went in this coolant line, am I right?
Thanks and wish me luck!
either get the new one or just tie the two wires together. it just runs a little richer. pretty sure. It's been year since I messed with that piece.
Ah ha, gotcha. Found a great thread on this part:
I'm going to swap to the other kind located on the coolant flange, since the one on the JH I picked up has the provision for it. Thanks all! Now if it only wasn't raining like mad I could get some more work done.
i put new fenders and core on my cabby and effen nothing lined up dont let it discourage you just beat and twist that bitch into position. my driver side fender has a monster gap also comes with the whole mk1 thing
Dubs Of Queens -EEM
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Oh I'm not discouraged, just a little disappointed. Once that motor's out I'm going to see what I can pull into place. Either way I never intended the car to be a show car, just a fun driver. I don't like owning cars that I'm afraid to take out and have fun with. Hell, my bus is painted with satin black Rustoleum that's going on 2 years old now. I'd much rather have a car that drives great and looks a little ratty than one that drives like crap but looks great. I think a bit of "rattiness" fits older VWs like a glove.
Parts ordering time again and I decided to end up going with the 210mm clutch and whatnot. I figured there's a reason they switched and that it wasn't worth the tiny amount of money saved.
The question now is, what trans to use. There's an FH in the car right now, and I picked up a 4K with the engine. Ideally I'd like to just swap 5th from the FH over to the 4K, but honestly transmissions scare the crap out of me. They're the one thing I just don't like to work on. I'll swap one, but opening on up... I'm thinking that I'm going to swap in the 4K and just deal with the crappy 5th gear untill I can swap it out at some point in the future. Any thoughts?
Slowly getting there. Got the new clutch ordered, hopefully I can still make rent. Friday I got the cv shafts dropped from the trans with the help of a 3/8th impact. I tried out a product called "Freeze Off" on my exhaust manifold bolts and it worked great. Before I couldn't even get them to turn. About 20-30 seconds of spray from the can, waited a few mins, and they came off easy as pie. All that's left are the motor mounts and that puppies out.
Now the problem is figuring out all the small differences and what I want to do. I'm going to end up using parts from both motors I think. Breaks down to something like this
--These are the things I'm mostly sure of--
Head & Block - JH
Intake Mani - whichever cleans up better, ported for big bore TB
Exhaust Mani - Dual downpipe manifold from 1.7
Alternator - from 1.7 (only 6 months old)
Water pump - from 1.7 (only 3 months old)
Oil Filter Flange - from 1.7 (no coolant lines - less clutter)
Fuel Dizzy - get motor started 1st with 1.7 dizzy, then swap to unknown condition 1.8 (larger)
Distributor - from 1.8 (1.7 is dual port)
Cam - get motor started with stock and then switch to g-grind
Starter - from 1.8L
Clutch - new 210mm w/ 16V pressure plate
Trans - 4K from 84 Scirocco
Motor Mounts - new T.T. heavy duty
--Not so sure or questions about
Sensors, etc - from 1.7
*to make sure everything is compatible, I dont think there are any major differences but I'm not 100% on that. Can I run the later style oxygen thermoswitch to the old connectors? I'm assuming that it's the location that changed and not the output of the sensor. I'd like to run the WOT switch I got on the JH but I'm not about to swap harnesses just for that one thing.
Radiator - from 1.7
*I'm hoping I can just use the later style hose or make my own. Since the water outlet changed positions I'm sure there will be some issues here. I'm sure there will be a whole post on cooling routing woes later on.
Throttle Body - Audi 5K or from 1.7
*The only reason I'm wondering about this is that the Audi TB I have has no idle control screw. I'm still not sure if it's broken very cleanly or is just supposed to be a vac. port. Pic's below. If I have to choose between the two VW TB's I have, the 1.7 is the simpler of the two and I'll go with that.
Front Brakes - from 84 Scirocco or stock?
*I realized that I got a full front assembly along with the engine and trans, complete with what appear to be larger vented rotors and all the hardware. Would these fit fine under 13 or 14 inch wheels? Again, pics below.
1.7 vs 1.8 fuel distributer. Definatly going with the larger one once the motor is running with a known good dizzy. Other than the size of the inlet, they appear identical.
Audi 5K TB vw 1.8L TB
These are the two not on the car still I have to choose from. See what I mean about the idle screw? I've got what appears to be a vacuum port where there should be an idle adjustment.
The brakes in question
1.7L vw 1.8L for comparisson of different parts
Still trying to figure out the final belt/pulley situation right now too. This is what the 1.7 had:
the 1.8 has only a single groove crank pulley and a different mount for the alternator. If I'm going to go without the A/C setup like I want to with the alternator mounted up higher in the general area of where the A/C used to be, will I need all different pulleys?
Progress! Finally I feel like I'm getting somewhere. Clutch kit should be coming tomorrow and I can get the "new" engine and trans together.
Feeling very accomplished right now. First motor I ever pulled myself!
Is there anywhere I could get a diagram of the different coolant system routings? I'm trying to figure out what hoses to use but there is no diagram in the bently. I'd like to get rid of the coolant lines to the oil filter and bypass the heater core for now, along with using my old radiator. Basically as simply as possible.
Now I'm thinking it might be better to keep the oil "cooler" I'm still in the dark as to exactly how everything will be routed in the end, but once the engine is in it should be a little more obvious.
Got the engine and trans cleaned up today. Also got both exhaust manifolds off and the dual downpipe cleaned up to go on the new motor. Did manage to snap off two exhaust studs, on the motor I'm using of course. They all came out just fine on the 1.7 though. Figures.
Going to do the clutch and whatnot when I get home - I think. If the flywheel looks ok - is it necessary to get it machined?
I know I'm not getting much love in this thread because I'm asking what may be considered stupid questions by some but please cut me some slack. This is my first time getting this far into a project and I want to make sure everything goes right. Any advice?
If you've gone this far, and have a new clutch, it certaintly wouldn't hurt to have the flywheel machined. It costs just a little bit more than a standard "flat" flywheel because it is a "stepped" flywheel, but should still be relatively inexpensive. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
And as for your throttle body, the idle screw should unscrew completely out of the original, and should thread right into the Audi part with no issues.
Modified by deer_eggs at 12:20 PM 4-1-2009