Nice...I'm building an 82 vert too. Car looks in great shape!
1980 911 SC - Black on Red
Chronicles of my '80 SC: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...y-80-911-sc-91
Cinch it up. Get the measurements from a Bentley and some ratcheting tiedown straps. Unless you are planning on autocrossing or tracking the car it will be fine. My Caddy was the same way when I got her. Towers were fine and it allighns perfectly. I just pulled the bent horn back about 3/4 inch to fix the 1/4 inch gap at the hood to fender. I'm guessing there are no creases in the crumple zones so you'll be just fine.
Will that really work? I thought about it - but it seemed to me I would have just as good of a chance of bending the other side as I would of fixing the bad side. The alignment is ok - I took care of that at work and wasn't that far off. Maybe I'm thinking about this wrong - exactly how did you manage to bend yours back? What did you use as an anchor for the ratchet straps? I've got the Bently already so that's not a problem. Thanks!
If funds permit it, take it to a shop and put it on a frame straightener. I have a CRX that would have been totaled but the frame machine did wonders - made it like new [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
What in the world is going on now? I went to move my car before the big ice storm, turned the key and lost all power to the car. Lights, radio, everthing. Came back later it was all off, tried the overhead light and suddenly everything came back on. I'm fairly sure the grounds are ok except the valve cover to firewall one. This happened once before, but I attributed it to a dead battery. Any ideas? I was thinking ignition switch first since both times it's been fine untill I turned the key, but why would that kill everything? Battery is grounded to the trans.
Ahhh - this sucks. Have been charging the battery all day, everything was working. Tried starting the car later, it started and died due to the cold. A few cranks later lost all power everywhere again. It's too cold to be tracking stuff down right now but I'm stumped. This should be a simple ground issue, but I'm almost 100% sure it's not that. I hate winter!
Ideas anyone? My car's in my yard buried under snow and ice right now so it's kind of up to bench diagnostics right now. Walking to work sucks! On a side note if you ever decide to get summer tires on your second car - don't do it! My bus is stuck where it is now too because of just that reason.
The snow and ice is finally going away, and I can get the hood open again - Yay! Still now power to the car - time to bring home some tools and find out what's going on. I really hate that my one set of tools is tied up at work all the time, but what can you do? I finally found an engine, and a JH along with a close ratio box out of an 84 Scirocco will be coming home sometime soon! Hopefully I'll be able to snag the fuel dizzy, wiring, TB etc. I've got a bently to back me up - but does anyone know just how many wiring differences I'll be up against? I've got a feeling I'd be better off getting everything I can from the donor car, instead of trying to use the 1.7 setup. I believe the 1.8 has a bigger air plate in the fuel dizzy also, doesn't it? I've also got a new heater core and blower motor, now that winter is on it's way out. I also recently picked up an Audi 5000 throttle body, but I have one problem. There's no way that I can see to adjust the idle on it - I'm sure someone out there who's running one can help me out. Cheers!
The roads and the scenery down here are the best part!
Finally got my electrical gremlins sorted out - there was a bad crimp on the wire feeding the fuse box. Damn those P.O.'s!
As soon as I find my camera I'll get a pic up, but the linkage is totally different (don't care) and the one in the pic appears to have an idle adjuster sticking out of the front in that pic, while the one I have just has a vacuum fitting there. The two screws next to the idle adjustment also don't exist on this on. I'll find a way to make it work, I'm just looking for ideas. I have to swap motors way before this part gets put on anyways.
Finally started the process! Got all the wiring, vacuum and coolant lines disconnected and marked. All that left is the CV shafts, exhaust, and mounts and I'll be ready to pull it! Those damn exhaust bolts are where I'm stuck right now. I've got the dual downpipe on my old 1.7 and I'm trying desperatly not to break a stud or do something otherwise destructive. So far PB and MAPP gas have both failed me. I'm going to pick up a can of that freeze stuff from the Cornwell truck today and see how that works.
There are a couple things that have me confused right now though. The first would be what the simplest way to run the cooling system would be. I just need to sit down and look at the differences between the two system. I think it's just mostly the changed position of the upper coolant neck that's throwing me off.
The second is exactly what this one sensor I found is. It was previously (I think) in the coolant lines that loop out of the back of the block, it was just hanging there by it's wires not in any line at all. Where can I get one of these / what exactly does it do?
Pics to come!
Ok - got the pics up. Here's where I'm finally at now that the weather is finally better. Oh yeah - my neighbors love me. I don't think I've mentioned this before, I've been wrenching for years now but I've never had the space or the tools to do a swap myself before. This is my first one, fun fun!
Finally getting somewhere, I think this will probably end up being the hardest part of it all.
This is the part in question:
Which I believe originally went in this coolant line, am I right?
Thanks and wish me luck!
either get the new one or just tie the two wires together. it just runs a little richer. pretty sure. It's been year since I messed with that piece.