This thread is all too inspirational... Leaves me with a few ?'s.
Whats the estimated cost; on the most basic, but reliable turbo setup?(cheapest lol)
Est results too?
Right around 300 wtq is when the stock pistons tend to start going south-- avoid big torque spikes down low and you will have better luck keeping everything together. Be conservative with your timing and run some good fuel at the track.
Life begins at 101 kpa ...and so does poverty--Lugnuts Calhoun
You can buy a decent base kit for $600ish and bolt that on, get software from C2 or whoever for $300 or so and just roll with that. You'll be seeing probably 150-170hp and have a pretty decent little car. But there is a LOT more to get out of this engine, but you have to invest the time and money in a solid build to get it reliably.
I'm sure some of these guys can make first-hand impressions from their kits. I'm just finishing my N/A build on my ABA and won't be turboing it until I swap it from my GTI to my Caddy.
Volkswagen South Charlotte
a.k.a. VSC Tuning
Unitronic through the
i keep seeing people talk about afr's and saying the lower numbers are too lean...ive always thought that higher numbers are lean...to me 12.5 sounds rich...with 14.7 being stoich...
i think im going to be picking up the 276 cam and tt springs here soon. j
then it will be lugtronics, and hoping next year to be tubliar exhaust mani, diffrent turbo and ie rods and je pistons. im going to try and get my gti into the high 9s low 10s.
also i drove the gti all this week to and from my new job, a little over 250 miles and filled it up today with 8.5gallons of gas which equals out to just under 30mpg.
-OBD1 bottom end
-RV hydro head
-homemade turbo manifold
-Corrado intake manifold (had the ISV port I needed)
-homemade 16v-to-OBD1 TB adapter
-358cc injectors (some sort of Saab IIRC)
-14b DSM turbo (clocked, w/aftermarket Garrett internal gate)
-4 speed 020 (long ratio)
-OBD1 engine management, tuned by me (see sig )
-Stock "T2" intercooler from a 90s Turbo Dodge
-2.5" downpipe, open wastegate dump, 2.25" exhaust for now.
No idea what power it makes, I have no dyno time booked for a while .
The IC piping looks odd because it's a hodge-podge of stuff I found at the scrappers.
Last edited by B4S; 04-22-2012 at 04:25 PM.
pg bottom forged with INA drysump
xflow head, converted to static plus larger valves, uses obx itb as intake runners, 1TB from subaru
kent cams 286.6 degrees Timing 31/74 74/ 36 Lift 0.462"
compturbo CT3 55 Billet 3BB WET DYN 62 .48 NP 3" V
synapse 40mm wastegate with std spring
cast exhaust collector
3inch downpipe and exhaust (2 mufflers)
2.5inch ic tubes, fmic
580cc inj (CIS pump under car and std one in the tank-> needs to be swapped to deatschwerks pump as it is now limiting the performance)
338hp at the engine, 413nm, pump gas (98oct shell Vpower) at 1.5bar (21psi)
Next up is fuelpump, wastegate spring and retune
Last edited by The Green; 05-07-2012 at 01:01 PM.
I have to check the sheet..
Been lurking this thread for a while. And now it has me ditching my supercharge plans for my 2.0L.
I have a 2000 AEG 2.0L with the following:
- ABD CAI w/ K&N cone
- Tectonic Tuning 260/268 sport cam shaft
- Sachs VR6 Clutch
- 22lb flywheel
- Unitronic Stage 1+ software
I'm not looking to make BIG power, but something in the 170-190 WHP range would be great.
Last time I dyno'd I had a bad cat that needed to be replaced and put down 108HP/118TQ.
I saw the top-mount inner-coolers in the pics and has me intrigued. My main question is about heat-wash.
Any suggestions about what I should look at doing to get those numbers?
Motor is sitting with 155K+ on the clock.
Sent from my iPhone
Last edited by Mr. EüroMatt; 10-25-2012 at 11:26 AM.
Obd2 block and head 110k stock compression
TT 268 cam
TT hd valve springs
Spec 6 puck clutch w/ custom friction pads
ebay exhaust manifold
GT28rs w/ internal wastegate
MK4 intake manifold
custom 2.5'' ic piping
Bell Intercooler Core w/ custom end tanks
3inch downpipe to 3in 400 cell cat to 3in custom exhaust (1 vibrant muffler)
Custom United Motorsport #42 software
@12psi 225whp/240whtq on Mustang Dyno
Dyno tuned @ EPL stratford, CT on 9/14/2010
@19psi 289whp/302whtq on Mustang Dyno
Dyno tuned @ EPL stratford, CT on 11/22/2011
Trying to tuck in the bay a bit more than before.
Custom LRI, all the piping and intercooler done by me.
Just waiting on a few pieces of stainless to finish up the dv piping and lower pipe.
No more tiny IC in the front like this picture.
Ill get some nice pictures of the bay when I finish it.
I can finally post in this thread.
1995 ABA, about 100k miles, stock compression
Garrett TB2522 turbo from a 89 Sunbird Turbo (clocked)
Ebay T25 cast manifold
C2 42# software with Bosch greens and VR6 MAF
AN oil lines
2.5" Aluminum piping
2.5" mild steel DP
2.25" Eurosport exhaust
Short ratio AWY 020 transmission
Running only 5 psi right now (MBC bypassed, running on wastegate actuator only) as I'm having problems with the MBC. Full boost by 2800-3000 RPM. No idea what kind of power it makes, but its lots of fun
Next season plans: Clutch, diff bolt kit, 10 psi and a trip to the dyno.
Last edited by Rocambolesque; 11-04-2012 at 08:29 PM.
Last edited by dubvinci; 11-12-2012 at 03:28 PM.
ebay t3/t4 ar .63 intake and .48 exhaust i think, 42 lb injectors, 3" maf, ebay bar and plate intercooler 2.5"x7", c2 shipped ecm from their stage 3 kit, custom 2.5" exhaust, no cat, single chamber flowmaster and side exit, stock AZG with around 160k on it. home depot MBC, stock 1.8t recirc valve. thats about all i can think of...i will try a better vid here soon...i didnt think to do it til i was almost home and was on a 45 mph back road with some bumps and curves...lol...its really fun on the highway especially with the 2.0 gearing. dont even downshift...lol...
So for now Im just going to have Jeff Atwood write me a 630cc 4bar file and run more fuel until I swap chassis.
this is prolly a dumb question, but if i do water/meth setup I don't need an intercooler right? I plan on boosting 12psi or so...
& to all the Turbo 8v setups